Overwhelemed by reloading info

[DocRDS]

Ok I have tried to suck up info on reloading and am trying to get over the hump of just getting started.

Problem: My brain works too fast and gets caught in the "Yeah but you could..." stage. I have a big problem just getting started.

Goal: Startup reloading 308/223. Like just get started and not blow myself up. I am middle aged, fat, and not a danger to any precision records anywhere at this time.

Gear so far:
Lee Classic Press. Redding competition dies for 308 (My rifle to compete in PRS). Dies for my other rifle calibers (223 esepcially). Shell holders
universal decap die
Forester Case trimmer and adapter
Deburring/Chamfer tools
Flash hole tools
Lyman pocket swager
Micrometers

On Order:
Hornady Powder measure
Balance beam
Powder Tickler
FART case tumbler.

Need:
reloading books
powder
priming tool
primers
bullets
brass (as in more brass)
sedatives (I joke, but i get really worked up)


Am I missing anything key? Again the goal is to just START reloading ammo that is equivalent to factory so I can go enjoy some Long Range Shooting and PRS matches. I am not a volume shooter--100 rounds is a lot for me a week.

 

[Rocketvapor]

You need the book first.
Then I would make a few dummy rounds. No powder, no primer.
Mark them so they don't get mixed up.
Dummy rounds can PROVE they will fit.
Learn how to measure the critical parameters of a case/loaded round.
Pick powder, bullets, primers as recommended in your new reloading manuals.


Start out with low to medium rounds. Test them.
Still alive?

 

[StrayDog]

When I first started, over a decade ago, I read this book. It helped prepare me and it worked. My $0.02 is buy a 200 rd case (or 2) of factory Prime 175 .308, then shoot a match or few, save your brass, and then go from there after reading the book and talking to shooters. Get some Varget and 175+gr bullets, lots of classic loads with that pair. There's also some good videos in the reloading section, and a loooooong page of .308 loads to look into... Every rifle and chamber and load is different, so be cautious and safe, but... 43 grains of Varget and a 175 smk under mag length will usually get it done right, YMMV, %10 rule, etc.!
PS: book may be outdated, but I found it very helpful to start each process by hand, one by one.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Start simple and concentrate on the key things: case/neck sizing, priming, powder charge, bullet seating.

Once you get those things down, then start adding in more.

 

[DocRDS]

Many thanks you two--I have been collecting PDFs for reloading--that idea of dummy rounds is fantastic to build some confidence.

 

[Snuby642]

Need a couple more measuring tools to be safe.

Head space comparitor to measure shoulder bump, bullet comparitor and case gauges are nice.
A chamber oal comparitor to find lands.

Many online videos from manufacturers available, but nothing beats a couple of books.

Advise about dummy rounds from @Rocketvapor is very important for a beginner while setting up dies. And that will let you use all your new tools.

Loads, if it's not in print don't do it.

 

[DocRDS]

ANother good follow up--cuase i see all the "bump back x amount"

 

[Deleted member 113831]

ANother good follow up--cuase i see all the "bump back x amount"

You don't need to worry about making precision ammo yet. You need to learn just how to make safe ammo....baby steps.

1. If your die touches your shell holder when you raise the ram, there is a 99.9% probability that the brass will safely chamber in your rifle.

2. Trim your brass to the right spec. The easiest, cheapest way to accomplish this and not fuck it up, is the Lee trimmer and a high speed drill. They make a cutter with a big wooden ball so it is easier to hold.

3. Learn to measure powder. Get a cheap beam scale. Use the starting charge for a few hundred rounds at least. They won't be fast, but will be safe, and you might be surprised how accurate they are.

4. Lube your cases by hand. Don't use Hornady One Shot spray unless you want to get brass stuck in the die. 9 out of 10 stuck cases involve OneShot.

5. Seat bullet to factory length as measured by a dial caliper. You don't need to know anything about about tuning seating depth until you learn how to seat... period.

6. Get a reloading manual with reloading instructions in it. I recommend the new Lyman manual (50th edition), or any of the other recent editions.


Do this shit first, and you will be safe, and you will be on your way.

 

[Rocketvapor]

Until you can make dummy rounds that are dimensional clones of commercial store bought ammo I wouldn't play with powder and primers. Pick a good match ammo with the bullet you want to start with.
Unless you have a custom chamber, store bought rounds are seldom (like almost never) too big or too long.

You don't want to find the lands, and make a mistake.
You don't want to bump too far and have excessive headspace.

Make dummy clones first.
So many come in and ask why there reloads won't chamber but factory stuff does.
Then make loaded ammo and see how it compares to factory stuff at the range.
Then later think about how to improve on store bought match grade ammo.
Rookies, sorry, seldom beat the pros (factory ammo) when it comes to accuracy.

What chambers in .223 and .308 do you want to reload for?
AR, bolt?

 

[DocRDS]

Starting with a Bolt 308 (rem 700) and also want to feed my ARs in 223 and 308. Been Using Federal Gold Metal and saving brass so I do have (unfired fresh and 1-fired from bolt) ammo to compare to.

 

[Rocketvapor]

Keep your 700 and AR-10 brass separated if you can.
The once fired brass MAY be different.

 

[DocRDS]

Will do--the 700 gets "the good stuff" while the AR tend to get second rate plinking style/volume ammo.

(and I added the Hodgdon and Lyman manuals to my order for hardcopies). I got the ABCs book on PDF for night reading.

 

[Carlos Danger]

I jumped in too. It can be overwhelming. I watched a shit ton on youtube just to understand basic processes. Once you get started, it'll be easier. Just take your time and if something seems off, stop, think, dont get frustrated, and look for an answer. They're out there.

 

[The Muffin Man]

One thing that helped when I first got started was the headspace guages; Lyman makes one that has 6 different very common rifle calibers on it including 308. I quickly learned after I resized my first 100 rounds and they didn’t fit because I didn’t jump the shoulder back enough. When I ran them in the headspace guages after I got them I quickly noticed my error.

 

[DocRDS]

Aight so one addition stupid question abut dies and setup. Provided I setup my dies per factory instructions (to the ram +1/8 to 1/4 turn). FL resize,
Trim to specification length. (Reloading manual)
Seat to specified OAL (Reloading Manual)

That is the start of reproducing factory ammo?

OR TLDR: How do you bump the shoulder too far? (That's my concern)

 

[wpgk58]

Hornadyloader on YouTube. He has a series of shorts that covers everything in detail.
The maker has since passed away, but the series has sustained.
ABC of Reloading is a great book. Read it and take notes.
Look at your local gun shop or clubs for a reloading group. Many will have mentor programs, and offer classes.
Look for a NRA Basic Reloading class (I am an instructor). Not the great program, but it solid in the basics.
Facebook - Reloading Mentors of America... This group has member in most states that are will to mentor.

Just jump in. Take it slow and check each step carefully.
Welcome to the addiction...

 

[salks]

The best thing I did when I started was I had a friend who reloads and I spent some time with him reloading. Tremendous help. I have since found my own process.

 

[Rocketvapor]

TRY
Sizing die to the ram then BACK OFF 1/4 turn.
Dies aren't perfect.
Make a dummy with ONCE FIRED and see if it chambers.
Back off a little more until it starts to feel tight and then a little less .

Guess what you found?

The AR-10 and the 700 could have slightly different head space so stick with the 700 until you can make dummy rounds that just chamber easily.
Compared to factory rounds the length to the datum your dummy will likely be a couple thou longer.
Most factory rounds will fit in anything, thus the slightly shorter length.
Remember, we are only talking about a few thousandths here.

 

[DocRDS]

The best thing I did when I started was I had a friend who reloads and I spent some time with him reloading. Tremendous help. I have since found my own process.

Who are these friends you speak of! lol that is my problem--I am operating solo. I have some handgun reloaders, but no one does rifle.

 

[kthomas]

Need a couple more measuring tools to be safe.

Head space comparitor to measure shoulder bump, bullet comparitor and case gauges are nice.
A chamber oal comparitor to find lands.

Many online videos from manufacturers available, but nothing beats a couple of books.

Advise about dummy rounds from @Rocketvapor is very important for a beginner while setting up dies. And that will let you use all your new tools.

Loads, if it's not in print don't do it.

I also noticed some measuring tools missing.

Another handy took that I've come to really like is the Whidden case gauges.

I also like a bit of steel wool to use on the bullets when trying to find the lands.

Reloading may be one of the biggest initial hurdles when jumping into the sport, but it's rewarding once you start to get the hang of it. There's so much divergent opinions on reloading processes that it can be quite challenging to sort out what is necessary and what isn't. A good mentor that you trust is a good way to help separate the wheat from the chaff.

 

[Sincerd]

Hornadyloader on YouTube. He has a series of shorts that covers everything in detail.
The maker has since passed away, but the series has sustained.
ABC of Reloading is a great book. Read it and take notes.
Look at your local gun shop or clubs for a reloading group. Many will have mentor programs, and offer classes.
Look for a NRA Basic Reloading class (I am an instructor). Not the great program, but it solid in the basics.
Facebook - Reloading Mentors of America... This group has member in most states that are will to mentor.

Just jump in. Take it slow and check each step carefully.
Welcome to the addiction...

Dam hornady loader passed? He was lots of help. Sometimes he would ramble and get off topics, and sometimes he would be too thorough. But I learned ALOT from his vids. RIP Hornady loader.

YouTube's a wealth of knowledge. Just research single steps at a time. Agaisnt pretty much everyone's advice, I started with a progressive a few months ago. I didnt care for match ammo as much as I want quanity. Of course I want it accurate but Just didnt have the time for single stage. While driving or at work I listen to youtube all day. Doing one topic a day.

It's no replacement for hands on or a mentor but it gets you familiar with the terms and process.

 

[chevy_man]

Who are these friends you speak of! lol that is my problem--I am operating solo. I have some handgun reloaders, but no one does rifle.

Buy a set of pistol dies and reload for one of your pistols first then.
It'll teach you the steps and get you loading without worrying about shoulders just yet.

Hodgdon has a huge amount of data for free on their website. I haven't bought a book in a long time.

One thing I see quite often is new guys cleaning the cases factory fresh inside and out. If you tumble in Walnut or corn Cob and leave the carbon inside the neck you have a buffer for corrosion between the brass and copper. If you clean it squeeky clean you'll need to wax the bullets. The corrosion will create pressure signs of the ammo sits for very long.

 

[Steel head]

I learned with pistol.
It’s a good start.

 

[clcustom1911]

Many thanks you two--I have been collecting PDFs for reloading--that idea of dummy rounds is fantastic to build some confidence.

Like @Steel head I learned on pistol ammo. Rifle ammo has a couple more moving parts, so to speak.

I started with reading Richard Lee's Modern Reloading book at least once.

When you're just starting don't get lost in the weeds on flash hole stuff, having perfectly brand new shiny cases, bullet concentricity (something I've never measured in 10 years), sorting brass or bullets based on weight or whatever (did that once, waste of time). Lube is your friend when sizing cases (and other times in life as well ? )

Dummy rounds are great, cheap, and above all, SAFE.

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

 

[clcustom1911]

You don't need to worry about making precision ammo yet. You need to learn just how to make safe ammo....baby steps.

1. If your die touches your shell holder when you raise the ram, there is a 99.9% probability that the brass will safely chamber in your rifle.

2. Trim your brass to the right spec. The easiest, cheapest way to accomplish this and not fuck it up, is the Lee trimmer and a high speed drill. They make a cutter with a big wooden ball so it is easier to hold.

3. Learn to measure powder. Get a cheap beam scale. Use the starting charge for a few hundred rounds at least. They won't be fast, but will be safe, and you might be surprised how accurate they are.

4. Lube your cases by hand. Don't use Hornady One Shot spray unless you want to get brass stuck in the die. 9 out of 10 stuck cases involve OneShot.

5. Seat bullet to factory length as measured by a dial caliper. You don't need to know anything about about tuning seating depth until you learn how to seat... period.

6. Get a reloading manual with reloading instructions in it. I recommend the new Lyman manual (50th edition), or any of the other recent editions.


Do this shit first, and you will be safe, and you will be on your way.

This is rock solid info. Follow this and you'll be safe and learning in no time flat.

 

[308pirate]

Who are these friends you speak of! lol that is my problem--I am operating solo. I have some handgun reloaders, but no one does rifle.

Just get the fuck off the internet and READ a reloading manual. Most of them have a front section that explains everything in detail. You need to understand ALL of it to be successful at it.

Stop overwhelming yourself with information before you understand the fundamentals.

Once you understand the fundamentals in print, start putting them into practice.

 

[308pirate]

4. Lube your cases by hand. Don't use Hornady One Shot spray unless you want to get brass stuck in the die. 9 out of 10 stuck cases involve OneShot

Bullshit. Only stupid people get cases stuck using OneShot.

It's about the most error proof case lube out there. If you can't resize cases using it, you really need to stop reloading before you hurt yourself.

 

[Steel head]

Just get the fuck off the internet and READ a reloading manual. Most of them have a front section that explains everything in detail. You need to understand ALL of it to be successful at it.

Stop overwhelming yourself with information before you understand the fundamentals.

Once you understand the fundamentals in print, start putting them into practice.

This is actually good advice.

 

[hino895]

Damn you all are lucky I started loading 40 years ago.
I bought the latest Speer loading manual at the time and went to it.
I made up some very interesting .357 mag loads

 

[epoletna]

You got a lot of good advice already, but I wanted to ask why you got the tools you did? Who suggested a flash hole tool and a pocket swager, for example? Those are specialty items you need when you get into bench rest shooting and have mastered everything else.

I'm not really asking who suggested you get those tools as much as I am trying to alert you to the fact that you need a little more knowledge before you start putting money into equipment. Ive been reloading over 50 years and just got a flash hole tool 5 years ago when I started bench rest shooting. And if you're not reloading military brass, you'll never need your pocket swage.

So go read a little before you buy more equipment. Unless you have more money than you need, that is.

 

[Rocketmandb]

You got a lot of good advice already, but I wanted to ask why you got the tools you did? Who suggested a flash hole tool and a pocket swager, for example? Those are specialty items you need when you get into bench rest shooting and have mastered everything else.

I'm not really asking who suggested you get those tools as much as I am trying to alert you to the fact that you need a little more knowledge before you start putting money into equipment. Ive been reloading over 50 years and just got a flash hole tool 5 years ago when I started bench rest shooting. And if you're not reloading military brass, you'll never need your pocket swage.

So go read a little before you buy more equipment. Unless you have more money than you need, that is.

You're hitting on one of my key issues affecting new reloaders. Too much information is bad for newbies at anything that's remotely complex. While a flash hole tool is an important piece of the puzzle, it's way down the list of things you need to do while learning.

Focus on the critical things first, then start working in other pieces after the critical things become comfortable to do.

 

[epoletna]

Yep, that last sentence sums it up perfectly, Rocketmandb.