Parallax stupid question

[LC 6.5 Shooter]

I had white targets at 300 and 200 yds with the orange 1” stickers with the black diamond in the bullseye. I matched parallax knob (sig tango six) to the yardage which seemed to work based on moving my head a little and the crosshairs not moving. The orange dot was just an orange dot, couldnt see the black diamond bullseye. However I played with it a little more and at 200 yd more example I dialed until the black diamond in the orange sticker came into focus. This was at 75 yds on the parallax knob. Does any of that male sense. So do you adjust parallax until no movement of the reticle with small head movement up/down/side/side or until it focuses in better?

 

[GotM118LR]

It should be in focus when it's parallax free. If it's not, as you are describing, your rear diopter most likely isn't focused properly.

 

[FatBoy]

You also probably know this, but the yardage markers are BS most of the time. Parallax can also change slightly with conditions.

I just wrap a piece of tape around parallax knobs and mark 100, 300, 600 and 1k. They are quick and easy to get to and minor tweaks needed for atmospheric shit is fast if needed at all for the shot.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Adjust the parallax knob so that the image doesn't move when you move your head slightly. Ignore the numbering on the knob. That only gets you close.

 

[LC 6.5 Shooter]

Adjust the parallax knob so that the image doesn't move when you move your head slightly. Ignore the numbering on the knob. That only gets you close.

Yep I get that. I set it to the yardage via the knob at first then began to tweak. I just noticed at 200 yds, crisp focus showing the black dot on the orange sticker came at 75 yds on the parallax knob.

 

[bax]

Yep I get that. I set it to the yardage via the knob at first then began to tweak. I just noticed at 200 yds, crisp focus showing the black dot on the orange sticker came at 75 yds on the parallax knob.

This is a good thread for me to follow. I perceive that there are three "focus-y" things:

• is parallax minimized? While moving your head back and forth, adjust the parallax knob until the reticle does not move against the target
• is the target in focus?
• is the reticle in focus? On your scope (and most scopes) the eyepiece closest to your face can be twisted. This is how you adjust reticle focus for your eye.

When I get the reticle in focus and parallax set to zero, sometimes the target is not in focus. I don't want to adjust the parallax, I know that will give me flyers even if it brings the target into better focus. I don't want to change the eyepiece focus either. Am I missing an obvious thing?

 

[ShtrRdy]

This is a good thread for me to follow. I perceive that there are three "focus-y" things:

• is parallax minimized? While moving your head back and forth, adjust the parallax knob until the reticle does not move against the target
• is the target in focus?
• is the reticle in focus? On your scope (and most scopes) the eyepiece closest to your face can be twisted. This is how you adjust reticle focus for your eye.

When I get the reticle in focus and parallax set to zero, sometimes the target is not in focus. I don't want to adjust the parallax, I know that will give me flyers even if it brings the target into better focus. I don't want to change the eyepiece focus either. Am I missing an obvious thing?

Nope, that sounds right to me.

 

[eastexsteve]

It sounds like your scope really isn't focused well. Set the parallax adjustment for two hundred yds. Bench or rest the rifle and get comfortable. Using the proper eye relief, try focusing the scope again look at different objects (trees, grass, etc) at 200 yds.

On a first focal plane scope, it's a little different. Set the parallax adjustment for infinity, and point the rifle at the clear blue sky. Using proper eye relief, adjust the focus on the eyepiece until the reticle numbers are as sharp as you can get them.

Also, remember to open and close your eyes as you adjust the focus on the scope. You don't want to give your eyes a chance to focus on a slightly out-of-focus scope.

This is just the way I do it, but some scopes might have other specific methods that need to be used. I know that adjusting the parallax on my scopes doesn't throw off the focus as long as I put the parallax adjustment on the right number for the distance. If it does, then I know I don't have the scope focused properly.

 

[bax]

Also, remember to open and close your eyes as you adjust the focus on the scope. You don't want to give your eyes a chance to focus on a slightly out-of-focus scope.

^^^ This.

The scope eyepiece is for setting the focus on the reticle, not the target. Your eye is a very adaptable organ. Present it with a slightly unfocused image and it will adjust itself to bring the image into focus. However, if you spend a lot of time looking through the scope, your sight eye will get tired of making the adaptation and you will notice. When you start, look away from the scope, probably best to look at something far away. Make a change to the eyepiece setting then look through the eyepiece - is the reticle in focus? You want the immediate impression, your sight eye will adapt in a couple seconds. When you have it right, take a piece of black electricians tape and tape down the eyepiece. This setting should not change unless your eyesight changes.

I learned this in a class - Thanks Bob!

 

[Racer88]

I understand the concept of parallax well by now. But, I was having trouble using the head movement technique to determine if my target and reticle were in the same focal plane. The reason I was having trouble was that I instinctively used a horizontal (as when you shake your head, "no") movement. Between my cheek weld and ear muffs, it would cause the RIFLE to move slightly, which makes it LOOK like the parallax is incorrect, even if it is. I could never get the reticle to not move over the target, which is what you're looking for, right?

So, I finally figured out a simple way to help avoid this issue. Instead, I move my head (very slightly) VERTICALLY... as in nodding, "yes." This doesn't cause the rifle to move like it did when moving my head in the horizontal plane.

I hope that made sense, and hope that it helps some. If you guys have a better way, I'm all ears (and eyes)!

 

[LC 6.5 Shooter]

^^^ This.

The scope eyepiece is for setting the focus on the reticle, not the target. Your eye is a very adaptable organ. Present it with a slightly unfocused image and it will adjust itself to bring the image into focus. However, if you spend a lot of time looking through the scope, your sight eye will get tired of making the adaptation and you will notice. When you start, look away from the scope, probably best to look at something far away. Make a change to the eyepiece setting then look through the eyepiece - is the reticle in focus? You want the immediate impression, your sight eye will adapt in a couple seconds. When you have it right, take a piece of black electricians tape and tape down the eyepiece. This setting should not change unless your eyesight changes.

I learned this in a class - Thanks Bob!

I like the piece of tape to lock it in position

 

[2Block]

I’ve been second guessing my reticle focus. I’ve noticed occasional eye strain also sometimes difficulty dialing in parallax. Just hung the rifle and scoped the sky. I was able to fine tune focus a little clearer. It’s worth a check.