POF Revolution: any owners?

Wow, just wow Amstel. Have to say I'd be in the same mindset if I experienced all those issues and got that sort of response. I feel fortunate in that my POF is pre-Pandemic and made when Frank was still running the show. I love shooting it more than anything else I own as it just works. I can truly say that I'm very wary of any hardware made during the last 1.5 years as QC across the industry as gone on a downward spiral. I'd like to swap a 12.5" DI upper on there but am honestly worried about the quality I'd receive at this point.

Customer service seems to mostly be a thing of the past. People just don't want to take that extra step or follow things through. Maybe they're understaffed and overworked but I'd rather solve a problem and make the customer happy at the expense of speed than to just let it slip through the cracks. Perhaps upper management cares but if they don't hire quality people it just doesn't matter.
 
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Wow, just wow Amstel. Have to say I'd be in the same mindset if I experienced all those issues and got that sort of response. I feel fortunate in that my POF is pre-Pandemic and made when Frank was still running the show. I love shooting it more than anything else I own as it just works. I can truly say that I'm very wary of any hardware made during the last 1.5 years as QC across the industry as gone on a downward spiral. I'd like to swap a 12.5" DI upper on there but am honestly worried about the quality I'd receive at this point.

Customer service seems to mostly be a thing of the past. People just don't want to take that extra step or follow things through. Maybe they're understaffed and overworked but I'd rather solve a problem and make the customer happy at the expense of speed than to just let it slip through the cracks. Perhaps upper management cares but if they don't hire quality people it just doesn't matter.
FWIW, my POF P308 that got sent back twice was a pre-pandemic gun when Frank was alive. Even then, it seemed like they really couldn't be bothered with after purchase support. The level of support was even worse during the pandemic, as evidenced by my experience with the Revolution. Fortunately, both rifles are fully functional now (and quite the tack drivers which is all that really matters), but these experiences have completely turned me off to any future POF rifles. It's a shame because the Rogue really looks great as a lightweight 308, but I'm not willing to subject myself to any more misery with this company.
 
Pof Rogue here, couple hundred IMI 146gr? rounds and no issues...haven't cleaned it yet after several months. Wears a 3x red dot. Upper does have brass dings like the picture above, but long as it doesn't destroy the upper that's ok..seems like soft metal for that to happen but what do I know; will send it back if it ever impacts function (citing defect)
 
I know this has been dead for a while, but I am a new Revolution DI owner with issues. Lubed up the rifle to start, then went to the range. Figured I’d break in with Magtech 150 gr I have sitting around. It wouldn’t cycle in the factory setting on the gas block for the first 4 rounds I tried. I then referenced the manual for the Dictator block and found then closed the block off, knowing it wouldn’t eject, but I figured I’d follow their guidance and open it up one at a time. Well it fired and as expected the bolt didn’t move. I then tried to manually cycle it and couldn’t no matter how hard I tried. I had no mallet with me so had to tap away with a mallet until I hit it hard enough to remove the spent case. Next time I hit the range with some PMC 147 gr and some FGGM 175 gr. With PMC it cycled when wide open, but only when wide open. The first group wide open with PMC put 4 of 5 rounds in .5”, the one of them several inches to the right. I don’t yank that shot that far off target, but the 4 being so close seemed promising. But he rest of the groups were 2”-4”. I then tried FGMM 175 gr and even wide open it wouldn’t let the bolt go back far enough to strip a round. At 1-2 clicks under max I had to manually cycle to eject the brass, but at least I didn’t need to get a mallet involved. Accuracy sucked.

I call POF and they start pontificating about how I can’t feed a Ferrari bad gas, so why would I expect Magtech or PMC to work in this rifle. That pissed me off. I wasn’t complaining about accuracy alone, that damn rifle wouldn’t run with 2 of the 3 loads I tried. My Geissele Super Duty and Daniel Defense V7 Pro both function perfectly with bulk 62 grain and even shoot some groups under 1” with it. The same day my POF was spraying what I could single shoot from it the DD was less than 1/2” with Sig 77 gr, so I wasn’t shooting that terrible to explain the piss poor groups. The ZComp 4-20 on the POF is a lot better for paper punching than the Razor 1-10 on the DD as well. Anyway, they guy told me I need to shoot FGMM 168 gr, and at least 500 rounds of it before it is broken in. I informed him that I was shooting FGMM 175 gr and it was a single shot that had terrible accuracy with it, so he couldn’t keep on with his BS about how it would work with FGMM. He then asked if the 175 Gr Federail was a hunting load, and I had to explain to him it is a SMK bullet, just 175 gr instead of 168 gr. After that he said to ship the rifle back along with 2 boxes of my FGMM for them to test with. After reading this thread I have doubts it is worth my time and the expense to do all of that. If they keep it for 2 months, waste my ammo, and send it back unchanged. In California I had to pay a dealer to transfer the FGMM, and if I had actually found it locally it would be $50 a box instead of the $32 a box I paid online. Then shipping isn’t cheap, and I don’t really want to send in my ZComp 4-20 for them to hold onto for potentially months. So I guess I’m trying to weigh whether I should try go/no go gauges to see if the chamber is too tight. I would suspect the gas system could be the culprit, and maybe it is, but with how shoddy they seem for all I know they have a gas port that is too small that they’ll never check on. If they go from telling me I need to use Wolf steel instead of the FGMM after the big lecture about their “Ferrari” needing expensive ammo I’ll get more pissed. But I guess there isn’t much I can do but send it back if I want to give them a chance to make it right, I just don’t trust them.
 
Strange. They usually DO tell people to use Wolf to break it in. I broke mine in with PMC which isn't the most powerful load out there by any stretch and I did the normal function test til the bolt locked back on an empty mag and haven't touched it since. It runs everything but I seem to be the only one with no issues. It's literally my most reliable rifle. PMC can either be pretty damn accurate or way off. I had about 1K rounds pre-pandemic when things were cheap and I had a few boxes that were really off. The rest were great.

I'd definitely check with go/no go gauges and then take off the hand guard and then the gas block components and check them. There are two very small ball bearings (it may be just one, can't remember) so be careful not to loose those when you unscrew the adjustment rod. I may have pics somewhere of it all apart. Just shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send them to you.
 
I had a long talk with Frank at SHOT the year the Revolution was introduced, and he told me they did most of the testing with Wolf steel case. I remember that specifically because I was really wondering about the diameters in the pressure-containment areas of the rifles. Wolf Steel case .308 Win. is pretty under-powered. They had videos of them shooting the guns in full-auto to demonstrate how reliable it was. On one of their videos for the Revolution, you can see steel cases ejecting from the port.
 
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I know this has been dead for a while, but I am a new Revolution DI owner with issues. Lubed up the rifle to start, then went to the range. Figured I’d break in with Magtech 150 gr I have sitting around. It wouldn’t cycle in the factory setting on the gas block for the first 4 rounds I tried. I then referenced the manual for the Dictator block and found then closed the block off, knowing it wouldn’t eject, but I figured I’d follow their guidance and open it up one at a time. Well it fired and as expected the bolt didn’t move. I then tried to manually cycle it and couldn’t no matter how hard I tried. I had no mallet with me so had to tap away with a mallet until I hit it hard enough to remove the spent case. Next time I hit the range with some PMC 147 gr and some FGGM 175 gr. With PMC it cycled when wide open, but only when wide open. The first group wide open with PMC put 4 of 5 rounds in .5”, the one of them several inches to the right. I don’t yank that shot that far off target, but the 4 being so close seemed promising. But he rest of the groups were 2”-4”. I then tried FGMM 175 gr and even wide open it wouldn’t let the bolt go back far enough to strip a round. At 1-2 clicks under max I had to manually cycle to eject the brass, but at least I didn’t need to get a mallet involved. Accuracy sucked.

I call POF and they start pontificating about how I can’t feed a Ferrari bad gas, so why would I expect Magtech or PMC to work in this rifle. That pissed me off. I wasn’t complaining about accuracy alone, that damn rifle wouldn’t run with 2 of the 3 loads I tried. My Geissele Super Duty and Daniel Defense V7 Pro both function perfectly with bulk 62 grain and even shoot some groups under 1” with it. The same day my POF was spraying what I could single shoot from it the DD was less than 1/2” with Sig 77 gr, so I wasn’t shooting that terrible to explain the piss poor groups. The ZComp 4-20 on the POF is a lot better for paper punching than the Razor 1-10 on the DD as well. Anyway, they guy told me I need to shoot FGMM 168 gr, and at least 500 rounds of it before it is broken in. I informed him that I was shooting FGMM 175 gr and it was a single shot that had terrible accuracy with it, so he couldn’t keep on with his BS about how it would work with FGMM. He then asked if the 175 Gr Federail was a hunting load, and I had to explain to him it is a SMK bullet, just 175 gr instead of 168 gr. After that he said to ship the rifle back along with 2 boxes of my FGMM for them to test with. After reading this thread I have doubts it is worth my time and the expense to do all of that. If they keep it for 2 months, waste my ammo, and send it back unchanged. In California I had to pay a dealer to transfer the FGMM, and if I had actually found it locally it would be $50 a box instead of the $32 a box I paid online. Then shipping isn’t cheap, and I don’t really want to send in my ZComp 4-20 for them to hold onto for potentially months. So I guess I’m trying to weigh whether I should try go/no go gauges to see if the chamber is too tight. I would suspect the gas system could be the culprit, and maybe it is, but with how shoddy they seem for all I know they have a gas port that is too small that they’ll never check on. If they go from telling me I need to use Wolf steel instead of the FGMM after the big lecture about their “Ferrari” needing expensive ammo I’ll get more pissed. But I guess there isn’t much I can do but send it back if I want to give them a chance to make it right, I just don’t trust them.
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Speaking of Ammo, if by chance you are using reloads, small base dye them. If I use full size lee.308 dye, it will jam exactly as you described in mine.

I understand the warranty issue in not wanting to admit to reloads. Just sayin.
 
Speaking of Ammo, if by chance you are using reloads, small base dye them. If I use full size lee.308 dye, it will jam exactly as you described in mine.

I understand the warranty issue in not wanting to admit to reloads. Just sayin.

I haven’t used reloads in the POF. I have probably 300 rounds of Magtech and just bought 400 rounds PMC and 300 rounds of FGMM. I do have small base 308 dies since I’ve used my reloads in my M1A SOCOM 2. My thoughts were to find a factory match load that the POF likes and duplicate it as closely as I can. I don’t even have any powder or primers for 308 at this point with how hard they are to find these days.
 
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This thread made me NEVER want to spend my money at POF.

Their customer service reminds me of Kimber's. Where they basically told me I wasn't worthy to question them. Over a pistol that has measurably non-parallel frame rails.

Yet people want to shit all over PSA while making excuses for $$$$ guns.
 
This thread made me NEVER want to spend my money at POF.

Their customer service reminds me of Kimber's. Where they basically told me I wasn't worthy to question them. Over a pistol that has measurably non-parallel frame rails.

Yet people want to shit all over PSA while making excuses for $$$$ guns.
It's amazing isn't it? I have both a 308 Revolution and I just built a cheap PSA, and although I can say I'm really happy with my POF, given the price delta in the two, I'm absolutely thrilled with that PSA and it is amazingly accurate for a $499 setup.
 
I've now had two rounds at the range with the Revolution DI and the Burris 1-8x24 FFP. First round was a nightmare trying to figure out which way to go with the scope to dial it in. Wasted a lot of ammo. I purchased a laser bore sighter (Site Lite Mag) which had me on paper immediately, first shot, on my second visit to the range.




The first time out with the gun/scope, I noticed strange marks on the bottom of the casings which I learned was "smear" and it'll apparently disappear as I use the rifle more. I did not make any adjustments to the gas on my initial outing. Some suggested it was due to hot rounds and I was over gassed but these are "factory" rounds and not what I'd consider hot. Ambient temps were in the 90 degree range that day but I was in the shade. I've reached out to POF but haven't received a reply yet. Going by the experience of others, it appears this is normal and will go away as the gun breaks in. Here's a photo, can see the marks at approximately the 3 and 9 o'clock positions on the right and middle casing. Sometimes there's a physical burr that you can feel where I think the extractor has dug in. It's a little less pronounced now and most it's just a superficial mark, can't feel it with my finger.


Anyway...first thing I did was go through the process of dialing in the adjustable gas block which I did not do the first time out. One round in the mag, firing, closing the gas block one notch per round until the bolt locked open. I added one more click and watched for ejection which was at 4 o'clock. Left it there for now.

Dialed her in at 50 yards and could practically put the rounds on top of one and other once I dialed in elevation and windage. Moved out to 100 yards, a bit more of a challenge but could still produce small groupings with PMC Bronze 147gr ammo. The PMC was the least expensive "decent" ammo I could find and I think, with shipping, it was around .50 cents a round.

One thing I've noticed is the eye box gets very small at 8x on the Burris. It's really a learning process to get into the right position quickly. I like the reticle and as much as I "think" I'd like (and wanted) the Primary Arms ACSS reticle, I'm pretty darn happy with the Burris and it has a lifetime warranty on both the electronics and the mechanicals. Plus it's reticle is very similar to the Bushnell 1-4x FFP on my AR15. I'd convinced myself to move up to the PA PLx 1-8x24 but being out of stock for the foreseeable future, the Burris was a no-brainer with Japanese glass (I consider high end Japanese glass/coatings better than German, controversy!) at a less expensive price to boot. But I wonder if I'm under-scoped for deer hunting out to 300 yards? Probably just need more practice with the 1-8x. I did notice the glass was susceptible to flaring but this is almost unavoidable without a shade. I lost a it of contrast but everything was still perfectly legible. Oh and I did try the illumination and both the Burris and the Bushnell were daylight bright.

This was literally, my fourth time at the range with any rifle so pretty happy. I know I still have a lot to learn and while I was able to knock off six to eight rounds quickly and on target (within 4 inches) I know I'll get better with more range time. The POF was consistent the entire time. I went through 60 rounds pretty quickly after dialing everything in and it didn't seem to change as the barrel heated up. Shoots like butter and easily more on target than my AR15 shooting rapidly. Recoil feels almost identical between the two. Using a 1-4x FFP Bushnell on the AR and it's a bit more nebulous at 100 yards with the lower magnification. Again, probably comes down to practice, practice practice.

One thing I realized this time out is I now HATE the AR15's trigger. I don't know if it's become spongy with use or what but it was far less predictable where the POF's trigger was telepathic, maybe even touch too light given my experience level. Will most likely swap in a POF trigger on the AR to keep them consistent rifle to rifle.

Load development. Looking for pointers. I'll continue to build my skills with the PMC but thinking I should try a few different types of factory rounds to see what the gun prefers. Specifically looking for hunting rounds, axis deer. According to my neighbor, most shots are between 100 and 300 yards but skewed towards 100 yards. Once I try a few different makes and weights, I'll be doing my own load development and dialing the gun in with those. If I should approach that with a different methodology I'm all ears.

And apologies for the long post, I type 60-words-a-minute. In person, I'm a man of few words. Go figure.


This is with the rifle on a cheap bipod, no rear stabilization other than myself. No bean bag, just the stock sitting in my shoulder pocket.
@50 yards


@100 yards

Did the swiping ever straighten out for you? I am doing my own loads and am seeing the swiping as well, but I've likely got about 500 rounds through mine now. I had run up to 43 grains of IMR 4895 and started seeing this happen at around 41 grains so being that this is a sign of excessive pressure, I got extremely alarmed about it.
 
Well, I actually have much better news to report on my POF Revolution DI. Gave it another cleaning, and it worked flawless with a box of PMC 147 grain, which we were doing closer offhand shots at various plates if worked well. So I went out today to try it again with more PMC to see if the grouping might get a little better, and then the 175 FGMM to see if it would cycle. The PMCs all shot 1.2-1.4 MOA, quite satisfying for a low cost blaster round. The FGMM functioned flawlessly and was shooting .6-.8 MOA all day. I tried some Winchester white box 147 grain and it functioned 100% but was over 2 MOA. So I think maybe after choking on me for 50-60 rounds it has now worked itself in to performing as I expect for that price point. I do like the fact a 6.8 pound 308 AR can be quite accurate like that, and if it keeps functioning at 100% I’ll be happy. I didn’t like the customer service attitude they gave me, and I had low expectations if it was still choking that it would come back from POF at 100%. But now I’m ready to drop in a Geissele SD-E trigger (same as I have in my Daniel Defense V7pro that shoots sub .5 MOA with 77 grain Sig ammo) and that should help my group size compared to the POF 4.5 lb single stage trigger. It isn’t bad, but I really like the lighter2 stage pull of the Geissele.
 
Did the swiping ever straighten out for you? I am doing my own loads and am seeing the swiping as well, but I've likely got about 500 rounds through mine now. I had run up to 43 grains of IMR 4895 and started seeing this happen at around 41 grains so being that this is a sign of excessive pressure, I got extremely alarmed about it.
There was a sale over the holidays on bolts so I snagged another Revolution DI bolt at a discount. I switched that out and it seems to be far easier on brass than the old. I've been doing some reading and from my understanding it's caused by a sharp edge on the extractor (someone correct me if I'm wrong) and can be fixed by knocking down the sharp edges with micro-mesh or something similar. But the new bolt seems to be far better than the old and I'm no longer getting the raised swipe marks. The old bolt would do it with whatever factory ammo I was using, be it PMC, Federal, Winchester, etc...

I went out the range today, mostly to work on my 300 blackout setup but I brought along the POF as I'd splurged on a new scope mount. I replaced an Aero Precision lightweight scope mount with a Scalarworks LEAP/07. Pretty massive difference. I went out with the same ammo, the only change being scope mount and a new bipod. The bipod was still a cheap, well under $100 Amazon special, but I wanted to give it a try before dropping a few C notes on a standard-bearer big bucks option.

Long story short, I laser sighted the scope at home @ 25 yards, went to the 50 yard at the range, dialed it in there, then on to the 100 yard. I didn't have a clean target (public range where they set the targets out) but my final group, after dialing in the scope, is circled in blue. Five shots, looks like about half an MOA @ 100 yards with a plinking round and I honestly wasn't super focused, just wanted to get things reasonably close. Hornady 150gr. FMJ's over IMR 4064 and seated well before the cannelure, almost to mag length. Super cheap bullet and definitely not match-grade so quite happy with that.