Point of impact shift

[DTF370]

I am shooting a 6.5 CM from a custom Remington 700. I have a nightforce 1 peice rail and vortex match rings. And I’m using a Burris XTR II.

I have noticed that day-to-day, my zero may shift. Most days my 100yard cold bore zero is fine or close, but some days I go shoot paper and my point of impact may be 1” high and 1/2 right or 1” high and 1/2 left.

I am a consistent .5 moa shooter and I don’t feel like it is me. I’m shooting prone from bipod and rear bags. Even without correcting my POI, my rifle will still shoot a ragged hole. The problem is the ragged hole is in the wrong darn spot! I’m shooting the same target at the same range, little wind, and within 20 degrees ferienheit of the same temperature.

Are there any common mistakes that I may Be making to see a 1” shift at 100 yards? I feel like if I don’t get this lined out, anything past 500 is going to be problematic.

 

[Rerun7]

Are you having to re-zero the scope to get it back on target or does it correct itself?

it sounds like an issue with your shooting position but without more info it’s hard to tell.

 

[Leland22]

What was the lighting like on each trip?
Sunny one day and overcast the next?

 

[_Windrider_]

I am shooting a 6.5 CM from a custom Remington 700. I have a nightforce 1 peice rail and vortex match rings. And I’m using a Burris XTR II.

I have noticed that day-to-day, my zero may shift. Most days my 100yard cold bore zero is fine or close, but some days I go shoot paper and my point of impact may be 1” high and 1/2 right or 1” high and 1/2 left.

I am a consistent .5 moa shooter and I don’t feel like it is me. I’m shooting prone from bipod and rear bags. Even without correcting my POI, my rifle will still shoot a ragged hole. The problem is the ragged hole is in the wrong darn spot! I’m shooting the same target at the same range, little wind, and within 20 degrees ferienheit of the same temperature.

Are there any common mistakes that I may Be making to see a 1” shift at 100 yards? I feel like if I don’t get this lined out, anything past 500 is going to be problematic.

i would start with remounting the scope and making sure the rings are torqued proper.

 

[DTF370]

I have not mechanically moved my zero. I have kept it simply because I’m ceretain it’s either sometime I may be doing, or something off with the setup. Is it possible for a cheek-weld issue to cause that much of a shift?

the lighting varies, but not greatly. I have shot in clear, overcast, and cloudy days. I haven’t noticed a correlation, but It didn’t cross my mind!

 

[Leland22]

the lighting varies, but not greatly. I have shot in clear, overcast, and cloudy days. I haven’t noticed a correlation, but It didn’t cross my mind!

Only reason I'm thinking of environmental,is because you are only having POI issues..still shooting tiny holes,and I assume they are repeatable from what I'm reading.
In My .02 if it is mechanical or positional you would not be grouping (could be very wrong )
On your next few outings take note of the lighting conditons,and your POI/POA...lights up,sights up/lights down,sights down..
Again My .02..

 

[Rerun7]

I have not mechanically moved my zero. I have kept it simply because I’m ceretain it’s either sometime I may be doing, or something off with the setup. Is it possible for a cheek-weld issue to cause that much of a shift?

the lighting varies, but not greatly. I have shot in clear, overcast, and cloudy days. I haven’t noticed a correlation, but It didn’t cross my mind!

If you aren’t readjusting the scope and it’s going back to your zero dependent upon the trip or after a few shots, etc then I would really suggest checking your position and your parallax.

You could be getting behind the rifle different and not always in alignment. If the recoil is absorbed at different angles this can cause a shift.

If your parallax isnt properly set then any difference in head position can cause a shift.

I would start there and then check equipment further down the list. Also, have another experienced shooter try it and see what results they get.

 

[doc88]

I am shooting a 6.5 CM from a custom Remington 700. I have a nightforce 1 peice rail and vortex match rings. And I’m using a Burris XTR II.

I have noticed that day-to-day, my zero may shift. Most days my 100yard cold bore zero is fine or close, but some days I go shoot paper and my point of impact may be 1” high and 1/2 right or 1” high and 1/2 left.

I am a consistent .5 moa shooter and I don’t feel like it is me. I’m shooting prone from bipod and rear bags. Even without correcting my POI, my rifle will still shoot a ragged hole. The problem is the ragged hole is in the wrong darn spot! I’m shooting the same target at the same range, little wind, and within 20 degrees ferienheit of the same temperature.

Are there any common mistakes that I may Be making to see a 1” shift at 100 yards? I feel like if I don’t get this lined out, anything past 500 is going to be problematic.

Tagging in for possible solutions as I'm having the very same problem except it is within the same shooting session. I'll shoot a couple rounds at 200 yds and they'll be POA/POI then get up, move around and let the barrel cool, next group is high right an inch or two. Me or the scope?

 

[drglock]

Tag

 

[_Windrider_]

Tagging in for possible solutions as I'm having the very same problem except it is within the same shooting session. I'll shoot a couple rounds at 200 yds and they'll be POA/POI then get up, move around and let the barrel cool, next group is high right an inch or two. Me or the scope?

Do you have an anti cant device on your rifle?

 

[SubOptimal]

I always blame either cold shooter or just poor shooter for this kind of stuff.
My suggestion is almost exactly the same as well, snap in before sending the first string.
If you shoot often, 10 snaps should get you there, if not very often, maybe a whole hot range session.
I'm old and creaky anymore and still spend the time to snap in before any session and maybe any significant pause. It costs nothing but time and I have never run out of time on a range.

 

[doc88]

Do you have an anti cant device on your rifle?

Yes sir but i think I've pretty much diagnosed me as the issue. Made a few adjustments to load and me and things were much improved. Thanks

 

[doc88]

I always blame either cold shooter or just poor shooter for this kind of stuff.
My suggestion is almost exactly the same as well, snap in before sending the first string.
If you shoot often, 10 snaps should get you there, if not very often, maybe a whole hot range session.
I'm old and creaky anymore and still spend the time to snap in before any session and maybe any significant pause. It costs nothing but time and I have never run out of time on a range.

Excuse my stupidity but what is "snap in"? Are you referring to dry fire? Thanks

 

[lash]

Yes. To "snap in" is to dry fire your weapon.

 

[SubOptimal]

I'm pretty old these days but we always used the term "snap in" to mean doing everything to prepare and fire a shot from assuming your desired position, synchronizing trigger squeeze with breathing while maintaining sight picture through the actual break of the trigger. It usually included bolt manipulation without breaking position as well.
Old habits die really hard when you have been using them for over 60 years.

 

[lash]

I agree. This is what I mean when I refer to dry firing also. Just pulling the trigger without all of the above preparation and follow-through is just a waste of energy and time.

 

[TheGerman]

Check your parallax before each string, just to make a habit of it.

Make sure your face is on the same place on the stock each time and you're not craning your neck or putting some crazy amount of downward force on the stock. The thing that got me and I didn't realize it was, make sure your rear bag is even and REALLY supporting your gun, not just 'good enough' where its sitting and holding the reticle on your POA; it'll move around and fuck your shot up under recoil.

Trigger pull. Are you pushing it? Follow through; are you racing to work the bolt or are you still focused on the reticle during/after the shot?

 

[Jedi]

Consistency equates to everything, when shooting groups "something i rarely do" i maintain position on gun never break cheek weld shot to shot.
However mostly i deliberately do exact opposite, rebuilding position completely every shot. i do this simply for training in building position behind rifle to ensure consistency shot to shot and have done so for yrs. Range time should always be productive, really think your position is good and repeatable? Shoot a 10 shot string and get completely off rifle in between shots you maybe surprised with results.