Powder Storage, Cool and Dry. Be more specific, please

rgmeddn

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Minuteman
Mar 3, 2013
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I have literally spent hours trying to find the ideal conditions to store powder and primers, and I can't count the number of times the recommendation is for a "cool, dry" place. Well, can somebody give me an example of such a place? My basement is definitely cool, but it is NOT all that dry if "dry" refers to humidity.

How cool is cool enough? How dry is dry enough? If the choice is "cool" OR "dry" which is more important? And, while I'm asking, how does this differ from the ideal temp and humidity in a gun case?

I'm sure I don't have to tell anybody here that the laws of physics cause cool and dry to have an inverse relationship, other factors being equal.
 
I can't put any numbers on it. A stable environment like inside a home and out of direct sunlight is the way I store mine. I have some that is 30 years old that still works fine. Its also a good idea to keep it in the original container and keep the lid on it. I also empty my measure after I'm finished using it.
 
I store my primers and powder in military ammo cans, that have waterproof seals. 30mm cans are good for kegs of powder and the 50 bmg cans are good for 1 Lb. containers. I've even used the round cans that are designed for howitzer charges.
 
No radical temperature changes, excess heat, open flame, out of direct sunlight etc. Excess heat causes the powder to deteriorate at a faster rate. I store with a bunch of desiccant in an old refrigerator that doesn't work. Apparently colder is better, but I'm not going to store mine so cold that I need to wait 24+ hours for the temp to stabilize before I open a canister to prevent condensate from forming.

Cool and dry exists just as easily as hot and dry. Cool and humid exists just as easily as hot and humid. Both statements depend on the difference between relative humidity and absolute humidity and how much moisture is available for evaporation. Not to get into it too deep, just accept that a volume of air at a lower temperature is able to hold less water than the same volume of air at a higher temperature.
 
I have literally spent hours trying to find the ideal conditions to store powder and primers, and I can't count the number of times the recommendation is for a "cool, dry" place. Well, can somebody give me an example of such a place? My basement is definitely cool, but it is NOT all that dry if "dry" refers to humidity.

How cool is cool enough? How dry is dry enough? If the choice is "cool" OR "dry" which is more important? And, while I'm asking, how does this differ from the ideal temp and humidity in a gun case?

I'm sure I don't have to tell anybody here that the laws of physics cause cool and dry to have an inverse relationship, other factors being equal.

Air conditioned space = cool and dry. At least here in Central Florida.
 
If your cool storage is too damp, get a dehumidifier, control it. I remember reading VV recommends 59% humidity, temp not sure, but 65 degrees would work.
Like others have stated, just don't store in a garage or outlying building capable of extreme temp swings.

Blued guns and moisture is a hell of lot diff than powder and moisture????
 
Powder and primers in metal enclosures become grenades and IED's. PERIOD......... Any volume of powder should be stored in a wooden enclosure for fire safety. You may find that the flash point of all that powder in the safe is well below the char temp of paper (about 350 degrees) and it turns your safe into a bomb. Primers should be stored away from the powder in a non metallic container as well. I use a plastic Plano ammo can with a few dessicant packs thrown in for primers and have an old wardrobe that i store my powder and a bunch of other hunting/shooting related items in.
 
Powder and primers in metal enclosures become grenades and IED's. PERIOD......... Any volume of powder should be stored in a wooden enclosure for fire safety. You may find that the flash point of all that powder in the safe is well below the char temp of paper (about 350 degrees) and it turns your safe into a bomb. Primers should be stored away from the powder in a non metallic container as well. I use a plastic Plano ammo can with a few dessicant packs thrown in for primers and have an old wardrobe that i store my powder and a bunch of other hunting/shooting related items in.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Here is a hotlink to SAAMI's pamphlet on safe storage of gunpowder. I'll warn you in advance, it offers nothing more specific than "cool and dry."

The reason for the "cool" in "cool and dry" is that the explosive compounds in gunpowder -- which, after all, were engineered to be violently reactive -- are so unstable, they even react with the very air around them (a process called "autocatalysed decomposition," in which explosive nitrates steal oxygens out of the air to produce nitrate esters [NO3-]). This occurs at a rate dependent on the amount of thermal energy (i.e., heat) available. And the only temperature at which no thermal heat is available is absolute zero (or colder).

So the optimum temperature for gunpowder storage is −459.67°F or −273.15°C or 0.00°K. Absolute zero. Is that specific enough? ;)

Fortunately, the guys who make the stuff had mercy on us and doctored those reactive compounds to improve their "thermal stability." They add temperature stabilizers, surface treatment agents, flame reducing agents and de-fouling agents, and they blend together different production batches to produce a canister-grade powder that should provide fairly consistent levels of performance, when subjected to "normal" storage conditions, for decades to come, and from lot to lot.

So if you're fretting over whether to store your powder in the 55°F basement or the 75°F hall closet, I would offer that you're using the wrong scale. All that matters is their relationship to absolute zero, so switch from Fahrenheit to Kelvin. Then 55° and 75° become 286° and 297°, and the difference goes from >25% to <4%. Plus, now we're talking the absolute level of available energy, which more directly correlates with the rate of decomposition.

Rule of thumb, any temperature you normally would expect to find in a habitable dwelling in any industrialized western nation qualifies as "cool." It bears mention that the bulk of the gunpowder maintained by the US DoD and its subsidiaries is stored in un-airconditioned bunkers.

The reason for "dry" in "cool and dry" is less about the powder than about the storage container. As long as it's tightly sealed, the powder inside could not care less what's in the air outside. But if the bottle's cheap stamped steel screw-top rusts, all bets are off.

But you are better off if you only open the bottle in a low-humidity environment. Smokeless powder is highly hydrophylic (loves to absorb water), another perk of being so extremely reactive. So if you crack the seal in a damp environment, the powder probably will gain some water weight. The change might be immeasurably small, at least at first, ...until you've opened that bottle for the 23rd time.

The net effect is that a given charge weight will contain less gunpowder and more water. As a consequence, your POIs might mysteriously be lower than expected. Or if you chronograph it, you might think the powder had lost potency, when the truth is there simply isn't as much powder in a given charge weight as there used to be. But the change is physical, not chemical. So it's reversible. Which is why I put silica gel desiccant in every newly-opened bottle of powder. The catch is that it was blended at the factory with a target potency in mind, and that potency originally included a slight amount of "original equipment" water weight. Which means that if you dry it out bone dry, an identical charge weight might produce pressures (and velocities) in excess of what the factory got when they tested that same weight. So what was a max charge weight to the boys at the factory might be a dangerous overpressure for you. YMMV. Another good reason to invest in a chrono.

As to the primers, here is a hotlink to SAAMI's pamphlet on primer storage. And here is the salient bit, copied verbatim from its page 3:

Modern sporting ammunition primers will not absorb moisture under normal or even severe conditions of atmospheric humidity. There is no advantage to be gained from air-tight containers. The factory containers in which they are packaged need only normal conditions of storage. They should be kept dry and not exposed to high temperatures (in excess of 150° F). If exposed to wet conditions or high temperatures, they may deteriorate, yielding misfires or poor ignition of the propellant powder.

So don't submerge it and keep it under 150°F and you're golden.
 
First of all, what are the reasons for storage? If you plan on total, (or look forward to) anarchy and want to bury your shit for twenty years, I can't think of anything cooler and dryer than a sealed PVC pipe 4/6 feet underground.

For most people, cool and dry means not in direct sunlight, and not in the freezer, just someplace where the temperature is stable and not extreme, without trying to define "extreme" for those in Arizona or Alaska. As someone above said; if you are comfortable, your powder should be fine. Generally speaking, it's not something to worry about. Reasonable precautions should suffice. BB