Gunsmithing Precision Rifle Cleaning

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Aug 11, 2013
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I hope this is the correct subforum for this thread. Anyways, I'm reading up on precision rifle cleaning. All that I have is a couple cheeeeeaaap cleaning kits. What do you guys use, what is your routine, and what do you recommend for me? I'm on a budget here.

Rifle is a Remington 700 SPS Tactical .308, 20" bbl
I know I want/need:
Bore guide
Nylon coated cleaning rod
Jag
Nylon Brush
Patches

I already have:
Hoppes No. 9 Solvent
CLP
Some foaming barrel cleaner

Help would be appreciated, Thanks.
 
toss the nylon brush... the suck for heavy carbon removal

spray foam.... let sit for 30min

brush 5 to 10 times, RINSE BRUSH!... if not the foam will EAT it...

patch till clean, 5 to 7?

that said, DONT clean you gun unless,..
#1 its has started shooting badly...
#2 you live in a humid or salty environment
#3 you got soaked in the rain...

most PR guns go 500+ before cleaning...
 
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I am with Ring on essentially all points.

My cleaning foam is Outer's Gunslick Bore Cleaning Foam. It does it all, except for after-cleaning bore protection, so I use Hoppe's Gun oil for that. I got to see may bores with a borescope after cleaning, and the Outer's Foam gets everything out. When the patch comes out clean there is nothing left in there.

Otherwise, my rifles seldom see a brush. I don't like the brush for removing fouling mechanically, but will use a nylon bristle brush to spread fresh liquid bore cleaner more deeply into rifling prior to the soaking period. I clean the brush immediately with several sprays of Windex or such; which I keep around for cleaning after firing corrosive ammo (Russian 'Spamcan' Surplus x54R).

Greg
 
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Thanks for the replies. Should I use a bore guide? Is something as soft as brass really going to damage something as hard as gun barrel steel? I understand the concept of not harming the crown or throat, but is a bore guide just a gimmick? I found a nice Dewey 1 piece cleaning rod I plan on buying.
 
I run a patch with some light solvent through mine after every shooting to get the carbon out, however I do not clean out the copper until it gets too heavy and starts hindering accuracy.
 
Here is my process and I have two...

1. WipeOut Foam

Spray foam, let sit for 15 minutes, patch out using about 4 patches ---- > done !

2. Shooter's Choice

Wet a patch, run it through the bore
Wet a nylon brush, run it through the bore, no more than 4x
Wet another Patch Run through the bore
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Finished !

In both cases I will wipe off the bolt, wipe out the chamber, make sure the action area is just hand wiped down.

That is it...
 
Thanks for the replies. Should I use a bore guide? Is something as soft as brass really going to damage something as hard as gun barrel steel? I understand the concept of not harming the crown or throat, but is a bore guide just a gimmick? I found a nice Dewey 1 piece cleaning rod I plan on buying.

I don't think the brass is the problem necessarily; perhaps some stuff like carbon and such getting imbedded on the rod and acting like an abrasive.
 
Here is my process and I have two...

1. WipeOut Foam

Spray foam, let sit for 15 minutes, patch out using about 4 patches ---- > done !

2. Shooter's Choice

Wet a patch, run it through the bore
Wet a nylon brush, run it through the bore, no more than 4x
Wet another Patch Run through the bore
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Finished !

In both cases I will wipe off the bolt, wipe out the chamber, make sure the action area is just hand wiped down.

That is it...
I do #2 exept for the following.. i cant find shooters choice so i use pro shot mix with kroil (who else do this?)
And after 2-3 dry patch i run once to twice wiyh wet brake free patch, reason for this hawaii is very humid so im using brake free to pretoect it corrude or rust..tgen run 2 dry patch before shooting again
 
Bore Eliminator every 500-700 rounds. Kreiger/bartlein/JP/Noveske barrels

1. 4 wet patches

2. Let it sit in the barrel for 10-30 mins (I forget sometimes)

3. 3 wet patches

4. 3 dry patches

*last wet patch should come out with very little copper fouling (light blue)

BE is has no scent

Nylon brushes in the ARs

I use a Lucas bore guide in all four of my rifles.

TLR
 
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As far as routines go this has worked well for me over the last 20+ years:

Rule #1: If it's not broke, don't fix it.

-Meaning: If the gun is shooting well, why mess with it? Marine bootcamp is tough. As tough as it is, I don't think I've ever had my arse chewed and wore out like I did when my Team NCOIC got after me for "cleaning" the NM M-14 that I shot while on the Camp Pendelton Rifle Team in 92-94. I'm still looking for a piece of it in fact. The rifle had surface rust on it and the bore looked horrible. Trying to be a good little Lance Criminal I figured I'd bust that rust and scrub the bore.

I found out real quick just how dumb it was to go thinking like a grown up. . . :)


AGAIN: If it's not broke, don't fix it.

This simple little rule is consistent with many of the marquee barrel maker's recommendations when you get them to talk to you. As Mark Chanlynn once said to me, "everytime you put something OTHER than a bullet down a barrel you run the risk of damaging that bore." "More people ruin barrels by cleaning than by shooting them out."

Mark is one of the best barrel makers on planet earth. That's a fact.

So, unless you start to experience one of the following, I say don't "fix it".

a. Increase in pressure that results in red flag warnings on your brass
b. corrosion (more applicable to carbon steel barrels than stainless)
c. loss of accuracy (groups getting bigger suddenly for no rational explanation)-assuming you don't have a high round count that's resulted in the bore being shot out of course.
d. failure to function (can mean anything)


I see folks at ranges all the time that shoot 3-10 rounds then get out the suitcase full of the latest cleaning wigits. They scrub for half an hour, then go back to shooting 3-10 more times. Then they wonder or blame things like "barrel harmonics" for a flyer or shot that's not on call.

Then you go to someplace like Camp Perry or to a US Palma Team practice. There you rarely see a cleaning rod come out and the NRA Highpower 800 ag course involves 88 rounds down range over the course of the day. A Palma event is 45 rounds for record shot at 800, 900. and 1000 yards with IRON sights.. If a shooter does have a clean gun he'll fire a half dozen foulers either between the tgts prior to the start of the match or he'll burn them into the berm.

If you need more proof, just look at a lot of test tgts posted up all over this site. You'll see the "orphan" out in left field (labeled as a cold/clean bore shot) and then a nice little wad piled up someplace close to the point of aim. The clean bore causes the flyer. Almost every time it causes a flyer. It's a very cold day in hell that a rifle doesn't do this. Some do, but its extremely rare.

Pull the bolt, wipe it down, squeegee the muck out of the receiver, and go on with your life. Leave the bore alone. Clean it when it really needs it, not when you "think" it needs it.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Chad.
 
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Good information. I don't plan on cleaning my rifles bore after each use,I'm just curious as to what I need, and what I need to do when/if it does need to be cleaned. I think with the research I've been doing, I've compiled the following list of materials I think I need:

-Gunslick foaming bore cleaner
-Tipton carbon fiber rod
-Tipton jag
-Tipton patch puller
-Tipton nylon Brush
-Possum Hollow #5 bore guide
-30 cal patches
-CLP
-Empty pop bottle for solvent trap

I'm not sure beyond that. I've also watched several youtube videos on many different cleaning procedures, and I think I have a good idea of what to do.
 
Chad's comments are right on.

My rod is one piece stainless steel with a ball bearing handle, it came from Pro-Shot, but the only reason for the brand is that it was what was hanging in the LGS at the time. I want the hardest rod material I can find so no grit, etc. can get imbedded in it to abrade the bore when it's used. I wipe the rod down with a dry, soft shop cloth each time before it gets inserted into the bore guide.

I have been shooting my .30BR chambered custom Savage (the old Ghost Dancer rifle) twice each month all year without cleaning it. I was recently forced to change bullets (danged shortages!!!), so I cleaned the rifle before beginning load development. ...Or tried to, there was nothing, repeat no fouling, in the bore whatsoever.

I typically clean my rifles before Winter storage, but this year, I'm just going to try patching some of the bores with muzzleloader's Bore Butter. I pulled my muzzleloader out of 4 years storage, and it was pristine. I'm starting to like that stuff, it's sorta like Cosmoline, but it's easier to remove, and it has that nice wintergreen scent, even.

Greg
 
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When I clean, my cleaning regiment is very similar to Greg L. I start out with 3 or 4 patches of Wipeout Accelerator to push the bulk of the crud out before using a bore foam. Spray bore foam cleaner let sit for 30 min and patch clean. I follow up with a patch of FireClean oil followed by a few dry patches. Done!

Works well for me.
 
I bought my rifle new and have put 538 rounds through it as of Sunday. The rifle hasn't started to show any indications of dropping off accuracy at this point. I'll definitely refer back to this thread when the time for cleaning does come.
 
500-700 rounds on some if my guns that might take years

So say my rifle might sit in the safe for a few weeks/months. Do I clean it or just put it away if its only got a few hundred rounds or less through it.
 
Here is my process and I have two...

1. WipeOut Foam

Spray foam, let sit for 15 minutes, patch out using about 4 patches ---- > done !

2. Shooter's Choice

Wet a patch, run it through the bore
Wet a nylon brush, run it through the bore, no more than 4x
Wet another Patch Run through the bore
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Finished !

In both cases I will wipe off the bolt, wipe out the chamber, make sure the action area is just hand wiped down.

That is it...

my process exactly except for the brush, no brush for me. plus when i'm done I send two rds down the tube before she goes back in the rack. the two rounds assure me all solvent is out of the bore before she sits in safe
 
500-700 rounds on some if my guns that might take years

So say my rifle might sit in the safe for a few weeks/months. Do I clean it or just put it away if its only got a few hundred rounds or less through it.

Good question, I'm wandering the same thing. What about during load development, when you are changing powders, and different bullet makes?
 
Good question, I'm wandering the same thing. What about during load development, when you are changing powders, and different bullet makes?


i will normally clean them bare for the winter...

definitely not during load dev.

as for siting a few weeks or months, is it a SS or CM barrel?
if SS, let it sit, if CM, ten refer to #2 you live in a humid or salty environment then run a patch of "oil"... but before shooting run a patch of "degreaser".. like rubbing alcohol...
 
Here is my process and I have two...

1. WipeOut Foam

Spray foam, let sit for 15 minutes, patch out using about 4 patches ---- > done !

2. Shooter's Choice

Wet a patch, run it through the bore
Wet a nylon brush, run it through the bore, no more than 4x
Wet another Patch Run through the bore
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Dry Patch
Finished !

In both cases I will wipe off the bolt, wipe out the chamber, make sure the action area is just hand wiped down.

That is it...

Came across this thread as I was looking for tips on cleaning my newly arrived rifle. What's best for wiping out the chamber on a precision rifle?
 
I have a pre 64' '06 that my father in law gave me back 8 years ago. He bought prior to going to nam. He never put anything but lead and burning powder down the barrel. Same goes for me. He told me if I ever cleaned it other than the mechanical parts he would beat my ass. It will stack 5 shots all day long at 300 in a half dollar cold bore included. Only gun I own that ever gets barrel attention is a optima pro 50 smoke pole. And it only gets cleaned once a year sometimes not even that. Barrel still looks brand new. 4 years old. BH209 powder is your friend. OK I'm done.
 
There are as many cleaning procedures as there are shooters. Some will soak, scrub, soak again, and scrub, until they see nothing in the bore. Some even buy $1k bore scopes to make sure that there isn't even a spec of fly poop in the barrel.

Others merely run one wet patch through to soak down the crud, wait 10-15 minutes, then run a couple of dry patches through, calling it good.

I've tried them all and finally use only two. When finished shooting at the range I take a bore-snake, soak the area ahead of he brush portion with some Butch's Bore Shine and pull it through the barrel 4-5 times while the bore is warm. I then go nome.

I won't do a "Bench Cleaning" until I have a couple hundred rounds through the barrel. I then run a nylon brush wetted with butch's through the bore. Let it soak for a couple minutes then push a dry patch through. I then "foam" the bore and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. From there I patch it out until the patches come out clean.

I also pay close attention to the chamber/freebore/throat. I remove the bore guide and squirt some foam into the chamber area. I'll let that sit for as much as an hour. Some brushing with a 50 Cal brush and then a final clean out with a chamber mop wetted with brake-kleen. I use a short handled Dewey rod that allows me to twist the brush and mop in the chamber area. When all done I run one final patch through the chamber and bore to make sure it's all clean.

Copper isn't a problem in my world as my barrel maker did a fantastic job of lapping the bore. I MIGHT see some occasional blue from the foam cleaning but not enough to really color the patch much at all.
 
hmmm, didn't see it anywhere here - but there is an online training on this exact topic - Precision Rifle cleaning process...

I've seen 8541 Tactical's video on this, but he didn't go into cleaning out the chamber. For my ARs in standard calibers (.223, .308), I use a chamber brush and wipe out with a chamber mop, but I don't want to go scrubbing in my bolt gun's chamber like that. I figured I'd just hose it with brake cleaner or solvent of some sort and just wipe it out cotton balls and patches.

I don't clean all that often nowadays. As a young Marine, I spent way too much time scrubbing that issue rifle, but as a free man, I've found that wiping and oiling the bolt before every range trip is all it takes. I don't clean before it's been at least a few hundred rounds, or I know it's going to be awhile before the next range trip.
 
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Precision Rifle Cleaning

I just ran a bore snake through my AW. It's a 2012 rifle and I haven't touched the bore since I began shooting it.... So it was probably time for a once-through with a bore snake.
 
Precision Rifle Cleaning

Agree with tossing the nylon brush, I found they are complete SHIT for removing copper fouling. Stick with a good ol' bronze brush...I prefer dewey no harm bronze brushs.
You don't use a nylon brush to remove copper fouling. The brush is used to deposit bore cleaner in the bore. The chemical action of the solvent removes the fouling. A dry patch then removes the solvent with the copper in it. You should never need to scrub a barrel with a brush.
 
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You don't use a nylon brush to remove copper fouling. The brush is used to deposit bore cleaner in the bore. The chemical action of the solvent removes the fouling. A dry patch then removes the solvent with the copper in it. You should never need to scrub a barrel with a brush.

I mostly clean with MPro 7 to clean out the carbon, when I want to clean copper I use butches bore shine.
This is my method,
wet patch with Kroil/mpro 7 or butches depending on if I am cleaning copper or carbon.
wait 5-10min
10 passes with a wet brush
wet patch
dry patch tell clean
fp-10 patch

I don't know how you clean but my way I visually see the difference when using butches and the nylon brush compaired to the bronze brush.
 
It's probably worth mentioning that custom barrels clean up A LOT easier than factory barrels. I rarely find anything left to clean after five or six patches of shooters choice. Sometimes a little bit of nylon brushing helps to knock some crud loose.

But for factory rifles, it just takes more scrubbing to get them clean.

I opt to "fix it when it's not broken" because I don't want it to break in the middle of a match. To each his own. I don't see the harm in keeping the barrel clean. What's a few patches going to hurt? By this I mean I clean after an ~80 round match - certainly not in between stages. Every 100 rounds is more than plenty.
 
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For a little while I tried cleaning the benchrest way, which is every 10 shots or so. Then, in frustration and seeing some info here on the hide decided that was a waste of time. I'm in the 300 to 500+ round camp now. My 243 has 1300 rounds through it and has been cleaned 4 times. First time was before shooting the first round to make sure there were no chips or debris in the bore. 2nd time after about 200 rounds, I was getting antsy because I was wondering if it was fouling or not (Bartlein barrel, no fouling that I could find). 3rd time around 700 rounds or so, no fouling still. 4th time was about 3 months ago and 1100 rounds shot, still no fouling. I now think I've been overcleaning it, because it has always shot the same. I know that when I miss it is because I screwed it up.

 
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My shooting buddy showed me his method using Sweets that he learned from some AMU dudes. Took about 20-30 minutes but cleaned all the copper out. Don't remember the exact process though.
 
This is my first bolt rifle, so thank you for all the hand holding. I've read hundreds of posts on cleaning barrels, and this information is very helpful.

I have another question. I have searched for previous posts on how to maintain, clean, lubricate, etc. the bolt, firing pin, lugs, etc., but I can't find much. My previous experience is with a Scar 17 which is a different animal. Can you advise on appropriate bolt maintenance and lubrication? The bolt on a Scar 17 likes to be kept oiled and little grease on the lugs and rails. What about bolts on precision rifles?

You don't want to clean the copper out.
 
Unless accuracy falls off, any copper in the bore wants to be there and should be there to fill in any spaces it might.

Copper does not hurt accuracy, excessive copper fouling does and most of the time people would not have a clue what that means because they never let it go that far. They are too busy in freak out mode to understand what their rifle is actually telling them.

I don't remove copper until accuracy drops, in some cases that has been in excess of 1500 rounds with a 30 cal.
 
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