Sidearms & Scatterguns Problems with Gen 4 Glock 34

[MarineMD]

Ok, I just got a Glock 34. The first time at the range, I put a little over 150 rounds of Aguila and Wolf 9mm through it. No problem, not one hiccup. The only thing I had originally planned to change was the sights. Which I did change out to Heinie straight 8 night sights. However I found the trigger to be heavier that it was supposed to be (it's supposed to be 4.5 lbs and I was getting 8.5 lbs on my Lyman trigger gauge. Sooo... the "upgrade sickness" hit me and I decided to experiment with the trigger.

First I tried a "polished" 3.5 lbs OEM connector…no change

Then I tried the NY1 trigger Spring… I hated it!

Then I tried the competition trigger spring and the Lone wolf connector. Trigger pull was now down in the 4 lbs range but the trigger safety now no longer reliably reset. This was a huge bummer so out went the competition trigger spring and back went in the OEM trigger spring. So I tried the lighter striker spring. Trigger weight is now acceptable. The only problem is that I now can't get through a magazine of the Aguila ammo without a failure to eject?! The lighter striker spring has had reliable ignition. Is the lighter striker spring behind the FTEs even though I am getting reliable ignition?

How do I get my reliable Glock back? How I can I get that 4.5 lbs trigger pull the gun is supposed to come with in the first place. I asked Glock about this and they suggested the 3.5 lbs connector which isn't making much of a difference for me.

 

[Blackstone]

Not sure about each of your attempts, but try this:
ROCKET 3.5 TRIGGER KIT for GLOCK® | Brownells
I have done this to all of my Glocks, 19's, 17's, 34's, 21's.
I doubt the trigger is actually #3.5, but it is serviceable.
And it retains the legendary Glock reliability, which is why I went to that platform in the first place.

 

[MarineMD]

Not sure about each of your attempts, but try...

I'm beginning to think I should have just left "perfection" alone. Whether for the range or duty, I cannot abide a gun that doesn't like cheap ammo. At 25 cents a pop, even an Aguila ammo afternoon plinking session can run fifty to a hundred bucks easy. Before anything else, I'm going to put all the OEM spring back to see if reliability improves. I just don't know enough about Glock. I don't know why the striker spring would affect reliability if it gets reliable ignition. I also don't understand why the heavier trigger spring not reset the trigger safety reliably.

Hmmm...Does the trigger block spring need to be replaced if you replace the trigger spring? My Wolf competition spring set cam with a trigger block spring as well. But I didn't use it.

 

[K_4c]

I recently picked up a fulcrum and pyramid.... and they are nice. I've played around with all the comp spring kits and have NEVER been satisfied.

IMO, leave a glock trigger alone... but if you want an aftermarket trigger kit, buy a good one and run with it.

 

[Rob01]

if you want an aftermarket trigger kit, buy a good one and run with it.

Bingo. The two things I always tell new Glock owners to change are the trigger and sights. New trigger group isn't cheap but they work well. I have a Vogel trigger in my 34 and 35 and they work great. I tried polishing and 3.5 connector but it never felt as good. I finally broke down and bought the Vogel and when i got my 35 I didn't bother with anything else and just replaced the trigger group with a Vogel.

Glock Triggers also gives a military/LE/FF discount.

The "VOGEL" Competition Trigger System - GlockTriggers.com

The Edge is another option if you don't plan to use it in IDPA SSP.

The "EDGE" Competition Trigger System - GlockTriggers.com

 

[MarineMD]

IMO, leave a glock trigger alone... but if you want an aftermarket trigger kit, buy a good one and run with it.

I think you right about leaving the Glock trigger alone. I purchased a Glock because I wanted an inexpensive, reliable, and modern pistol to go with my 1911s and revolvers. I chose the 34 for the 5 inch barrel and the 4.5 lbs advertised trigger. I think I am just going to put all the factory parts back in and be satisfied with the stock trigger. I feel the beauty of the Glock is its reliability/safety and if I don't get that then the best trigger in the world is pretty useless.

In the end the biggest problem is that I shoot bolt action rifles and my pistol collection isn't big but it is high quality with a Nighthawk Custom and a Freedom Arms revolver. I guess my trigger finger is just a bit spoiled...

 

[K_4c]

I think you right about leaving the Glock trigger alone. I purchased a Glock because I wanted an inexpensive, reliable, and modern pistol to go with my 1911s and revolvers. I chose the 34 for the 5 inch barrel and the 4.5 lbs advertised trigger. I think I am just going to put all the factory parts back in and be satisfied with the stock trigger. I feel the beauty of the Glock is its reliability/safety and if I don't get that then the best trigger in the world is pretty useless.

In the end the biggest problem is that I shoot bolt action rifles and my pistol collection isn't big but it is high quality with a Nighthawk Custom and a Freedom Arms revolver. I guess my trigger finger is just a bit spoiled...

put 10k on that 34 and you'll polish it up the right way

 

[Rob01]

I feel the beauty of the Glock is its reliability/safety and if I don't get that then the best trigger in the world is pretty useless.

You can get that and a good feel but it just seems you were tinkering without the knowledge to do it. If you replace the whole trigger with the Edge or Vogel you will have both reliability/safety and a good trigger. In the end it would probably cost less than what you spent on all those parts. Sell the parts after you pull them and get a full drop in.

 

[HD1911]

OP,

Do you have all your Trigger Friction and Action points properly Lubed?

All I normally do for any Glock I own, is drop in a Glock LE 4.5lb Connector.

I don't recommend polishing anything. The trigger components are coated a certain way for a reason.

If it were me, I'd return it stock, with the exception of a Known Good Connector that's made specifically for Gen 4s.


*also, have u contacted Glock? There could very well be something wrong there if your Trigger is really breaking at 8.5lbs in Factory Form

 

[MarineMD]

You can get that and a good feel but it just seems you were tinkering without the knowledge to do it...

I'm tinkering to attain knowledge. Whenever I do stuff like this, I always set a mechanical and financial limit beyond which I wont go (I'm in for about $40 so far with the springs and the connectors). I am looking for a good video cartoon version of the Glock trigger and firing sequence. Anyone?

OP,

Do you have all your Trigger Friction and Action points properly Lubed?

All I normally do for any Glock I own, is drop in a Glock LE 4.5lb Connector.

I don't recommend polishing anything. The trigger components are coated a certain way for a reason.

If it were me, I'd return it stock, with the exception of a Known Good Connector that's made specifically for Gen 4s.


*also, have u contacted Glock? There could very well be something wrong there if your Trigger is really breaking at 8.5lbs in Factory Form

Cleaned and lubed all points suggested in manual and on Glock store video. I read a variety of reviews that stated the trigger spring might not reliably reset the trigger blade safety. This was my experience.

As for Glock they tell me I might have an LE model. My dealer says, "no."

 

[Rob01]

I'm tinkering to attain knowledge. Whenever I do stuff like this, I always set a mechanical and financial limit beyond which I wont go (I'm in for about $40 so far with the springs and the connectors). I am looking for a good video cartoon version of the Glock trigger and firing sequence. Anyone?

Nothing wrong with that. i wasn't bagging on you but it seems like you got into something you didn't know about and didn't get the results you wanted so were saying that it should just be left stock. That's like me taking apart my car engine to do upgrades and them not working so I go to stock.

Glock triggers suck. Plain and simple. I like Glocks alot and have owned one since 1988 but it's a fact. You can get used to them but even the competition models aren't good. You can get them reliable and much better with aftermarket triggers or some tuning but you just have to know how to do it. It's good you got into yours and had it all apart and know how things work. You can go back in now and start changing things and see what works and what doesn't. Best to not change more than one thing at a time to see where the problem lies. The minimum I would do to a Glock is the 25 cent trigger job and a 3.5 connector. I recommended the drop ins as it would get you what you want in one easy step but some people like to tinker which is fine.

You looking for videos like this?

Glock Function Animation - YouTube

Gainesville Target Range Glock Pistol Review/Info - YouTube

 

[MarineMD]

...i wasn't bagging on you but it seems like you got into something you didn't know about and didn't get the results you wanted so were saying that it should just be left stock...

zero offense taken!!! No, no. the idea of going back to stock is me saying, "I'm out of my depth and will stop now because I don't want to hurt myself or, more importantly, others. and I don't want to spend anymore money on a project that , for me, is specifically about having a knock around gun for fun and carry."

 

[ZombieMonkey]

I fail to see the "problems" with the Glock as they all seem to have been created by the user. I seriously doubt the trigger pull gauge measured it correctly if it was showing 8.5#

While far from being a Glock lover, I've come to like and embrace the design from the factory over many thousands of rounds being stuck with a G22 for duty carry. It'll smooth out over time naturally on its own and you'll get used to the style of trigger on the Glock. That or as suggested above, you can smooth things out a bit with the 25 cent trigger job / connector combo. The Vogel trigger kit is always an option as well and it well worth it. However, you have to keep in mind that there is only so much you can do with the Glock trigger by its design.

 

[MarineMD]

I fail to see the "problems" with the Glock as they all seem to have been created by the user. I seriously doubt the trigger pull gauge measured it correctly if it was showing 8.5#... I've come to like and embrace the design from the factory over many thousands of rounds being stuck with a G22 for duty carry. It'll smooth out over time naturally on its own and you'll get used to the style of trigger on the Glock. That or as suggested above, you can smooth things out a bit with the 25 cent trigger job / connector combo. The Vogel trigger kit is always an option as well and it well worth it. However, you have to keep in mind that there is only so much you can do with the Glock trigger by its design.

I agree with everything you say… I am getting markedly different readings on my Lyman trigger gauge depending on where I catch the trigger so I am trying to get it where I place my finger. The highest I got was 10 lbs and the lowest was 6.5 lbs. More typically I'm getting 8 lbs 5-10 oz which is why I am reporting 8.5 (this is super not scientific but it's good enough for my purposes). My finger says, "heavier than 4.5 lbs" that I am used to in pistols triggers.

I looked at Vogel it's a bit pricey for me.

So far the thing I like best about the Glock is its incredibly light weight and low recoil. All I feel the gun jumping a bit and wham my sights are right back on target. I just hope I can figure our why I'm getting so many FTEs. Tomorrow I will shoot the good stuff (Federal, Hornady and Asym) to see if that makes a difference.

I do have to confess that I'm having a boatload of fun shooting this pistol and trying to figure it out

 

[kansas]

Glock triggers range from ok to pretty good but never great. I've got a Zev in one G34 and I just bought a brand new G34 gen 3 and it has the best Glock trigger I've ever felt. The last two Gen 3s I've bought have had the best stock Glock triggers I've ever felt but I've heard that it's harder to tune the Gen 4 triggers. Not sure why. I've got another Glock coming that has a Zev fulcrum trigger and the lightened striker coming and I'm anxious to see how it feels. Zev triggers are nice and I've heard really good things about the Vogel trigger too.

 

[MarineMD]

Glock triggers range from ok to pretty good but never great. I've got a Zev in one G34 and I just bought a brand new G34 gen 3 and it has the best Glock trigger I've ever felt. The last two Gen 3s I've bought have had the best stock Glock triggers I've ever felt but I've heard that it's harder to tune the Gen 4 triggers. Not sure why. I've got another Glock coming that has a Zev fulcrum trigger and the lightened striker coming and I'm anxious to see how it feels. Zev triggers are nice and I've heard really good things about the Vogel trigger too.

I promised myself I wouldn't get upgrade fever on this since Glocks are "perfection." I just could help myself with the Heinie sights! I am a real fan of the straight eight. Maybe a Vogel wouldn't hurt, hmmm… All this pistol stuff is taking away my rifle time!

 

[leadbullet]

try measuring the trigger weight by having your guage pulling on the bottom of the trigger close to the trigger guard, if you measured any higher up, the pull weight will increase substantially.
cheers.

 

[kansas]

Ten years ago all I had to say about Glock was they were ugly, junky looking plastic guns and they didn't point right but you just can't beat them for reliability and quality however for target work the stock trigger and sights leave a lot to be desires. All my carry guns have stock triggers but for 3 gun and IDPA it helps a lot to have a better trigger. I'd really like to shoot a Vogel trigger and see if they are better than the Zev.

 

[Boonman]

I have done several Glock triggers. The best parts to use are factory gen 3 trigger bars, and various other parts, depending on what you want out of it. I use ghost connectors, and various brand springs. There is quite a bit going on under the slide, and yet quite not alot at the same time. If that makes any sense. What I mean is that its pretty simple setup, but quite easy to get it wrong if you start playing with incompatable parts. As for OP question, there could be a few things causing the issues that you experienced.
as far as the springs, im a bit confused kind of, as to what springs you may or may not have changed. And how these relate to the problems you are experiencing. Some you say you didnt use, im not sure which.. In a Glock, it is important to understand that the trigger spring in the trigger housing works in conjunction with the striker spring to dictate what the final trigger pull is. If you change these and dont have a good handle on what you are doing, goofy things can happen. The trigger spring, has two functions. One is to aid you in lightening trigger pull, and 2, it enables the trigger to be reset when the slide cycles, should you not be holding the trigger to the rear after a round is touched off. The way it lighens the trigger pull for you is that this spring is always pulling the trigger bar towards the rear. When the trigger bar is contacted by the firing pin lug, this trigger spring is now counteracting the force of the firing pin spring, which at this point is now attempting to pull against the trigger spring. If one installs to heavy of a trigger spring, and too light of a striker spring, this could cause issues with the triggerbar not being pulled far enough forward to allow the trigger safety tab to engage the frame, and effectively reset. Conversely, if one has a lighter trigger spring, and a heavy striker spring, the trigger pull wil be very heavy. When you start squeezing the trigger, the trigger spring is also pulling with your finger, and pulling the striker to the rear of the slide. The trigger bar than contacts the connector, (ending the "first"stage..) which than starts to move the trigger bar down and off of the firing pin lug, untill it clears the lug, which than allows thw firing pin to come forward, and excite the primer, and touch a round down range...

As for the connector, in my race gun, and any race trigger I have done for anyone, I use a ghost rocket 3.5 connector with trigger control tab. This has to be hand fit into each weapon. It is not universal. I have also used an evo connector for those that wish to eliminate the 2 stage trigger. Anyways, the trigger control tab eliminates trigger overtravel, and gives lightning quick, short trigger reset. Along with this I also use various striker springs and trigger springs to tune to the desired pull. Usually a 6# trigger spring or heavier, and a 4# striker spring for comp guns. I also use a reduced firing pin plunger spring. Everything gets polished.
As for the gen 4 guns, they run a different trigger housing, trigger bar and connector. However, on these guns, I use a gen 3 trigger bar, and gen 3 connector. The gen4 trigger bar has different angles on it, as well as a protrusion which drags on the slide for the entire trigger pull. The gen 4 connector has a different angle as well, and lengthens the pull from the point of takeup of the first stage, to the point where it actually releases the firing pin. Creating essentially a longer trigger pull, and what feels to me more or less like creep. Which I dislike. With a gen 3 connector, it is a steeper angle, which moves the trigger bar off the firing pin sooner during a trigger squeeze, creating an overall shorter throw.
As for the failure to eject, are you speaking of complete failure to extract, or just a stovepipe? A glock has a fairly loose chamber for the most part. I am thinking you speak of stovepipes, which is common enough. If this is the case, 99% of the time, this is shooter induced. Often caused by "limp wristed" maneuvers, or thehand nit being high enough in the backstrap which do not allow the slide to cycle fully, which doesnt allow casing to contact the ejector hard or long enough and doesnt kick it clear of the slide.