thinking about buying a progressive press with my tax return to load 223,45 and 40, i'll continue to use my single stage for rifle rounds. i'm looking to spend around $500 and have been looking at the dillon 550b and 650. are there any other manufacturers i should be looking at and what kind of issues do they have? other then the initial setup pains are there any other issues i should know about the dillon's?
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progessive reloaders
- Thread starter _shawn_
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All roads lead to Dillon. I started with a Hornady progressive press and enjoyed it, but definitely like my Dillon presses better.
The 550 is great if you don't want to load a lot of ammo in a short time. I can't get more than 400 made on it in an hour. The 550 is very easy to set up, but requires more attention than the other models from Dillon.
The 650 is significantly quicker than the 550, but takes a few minutes longer to do a conversion. I can produce around 850 rounds an hour on this. I really like the fact that it auto-indexes, has a case feeder, and has a powder check station.
The 1050 is by far the king of the hill. It's not as smooth as the 650, takes longer to get set up, and costs a small fortune. That said, I love it now that it is broken in. I wouldn't recommend loading on a 1050 until you have processed 10,000 pieces of brass on it. I've noticed that it gets nicer with time. The swaging, priming on the down stroke, and ability to produce more than 1,000 per hour set it apart from the rest.
All that said, I don't think you will ever regret starting with a 550. It's like having a single stage; you'll always have a use for it, even if you move on to other presses. Many people use that as their only press and make great match ammo on them.
The 550 is great if you don't want to load a lot of ammo in a short time. I can't get more than 400 made on it in an hour. The 550 is very easy to set up, but requires more attention than the other models from Dillon.
The 650 is significantly quicker than the 550, but takes a few minutes longer to do a conversion. I can produce around 850 rounds an hour on this. I really like the fact that it auto-indexes, has a case feeder, and has a powder check station.
The 1050 is by far the king of the hill. It's not as smooth as the 650, takes longer to get set up, and costs a small fortune. That said, I love it now that it is broken in. I wouldn't recommend loading on a 1050 until you have processed 10,000 pieces of brass on it. I've noticed that it gets nicer with time. The swaging, priming on the down stroke, and ability to produce more than 1,000 per hour set it apart from the rest.
All that said, I don't think you will ever regret starting with a 550. It's like having a single stage; you'll always have a use for it, even if you move on to other presses. Many people use that as their only press and make great match ammo on them.
Im rocking a hornady LNL. For those on a budget its hard to beat and i like it. Really fast to set up. About the only downfall to the press is you need to keep the primer seating area ultra clean or it will shut down the entire operation.
I run a Dillon 650, and has been mostly a dream. I get about 700 rounds per hour running it by myself. You could get one without the case feeder, as I did. You will be saving up for one for sure. I had my daughter as my case feeder for a bit, but the short attention span sucked. It really is the cats ass! J
I got my 550b about a year ago and really like it. It's going to push your $500 budget but it's your best bet to get into a solid Dillon. My next one will be a 1050, but as someone already said, it will set you back almost twice your budget to get setup and running. I too get about 400-500 rounds per hour with my 550b, which is more than I can currently shoot. I'd make the call based on your ammo consumption per month.
I've got no experience on a Hornady LnL so can't speak to the pros and cons of that setup.
I've got no experience on a Hornady LnL so can't speak to the pros and cons of that setup.
Id get a 650 then save up for the bullet and case feeders down the road if you want to load in higher volume.
If you were going to load pistol only and not want a case or bullet feeder the dillon square deal is a great press for very little $$. Caliber changes are quick and easy as well.
If you were going to load pistol only and not want a case or bullet feeder the dillon square deal is a great press for very little $$. Caliber changes are quick and easy as well.
dillons site doesn't say but can you add the case feeder and bullet feeder to the 550? i kinda like the auto indexing feature of the 650 and won't start with all 3 calibers right away. right now i'm going to start with just the 40 then when i finish my ar i'll add the 223 and eventually sometime this year i'd like to buy a 1911 so then i'll add the 45
My Hornaday LNL has been great, since, like you, I'm just starting out reloading. I'm having a blast (almost as much fun as shooting) and would recommend, like me, you start with an easy load like 308 or 260. I'm running both. But don't kid yourself, I stocked up on supplies for a year before starting and that will cost $2000 to $4000 for powder, primers and premium bullets. Mtch primers have been in short supply. Well worth it since my son and I usually shoot twice a week. Better accuracy with good hand loads and very cost efficient. I will probably gey a Dillon in the coming year with the amount we shoot! Luckily, I'm about 2 miles from Dillon and 5-6 miles from Bruno's Shooting Supply.
I hear the Dillon Progressive Presses work best with pistol ammo, which I have little use for. Merry Christmas and good luck with you new endeavors.
I hear the Dillon Progressive Presses work best with pistol ammo, which I have little use for. Merry Christmas and good luck with you new endeavors.
Stupid question but...
Does a Dillon have to use Dillon dies, or can I use my lee dies in a Dillon press?
--Daniel
Does a Dillon have to use Dillon dies, or can I use my lee dies in a Dillon press?
--Daniel
I'm pretty new to reloading but from doing all my home work prior to buying Dillon seems to be the go to for quality and customer service but you are not getting it for $500! Unless it's stolen. I have a SMART hand press, I think it's called smart because you would be smart to get something else! It's junk. I just bought the lee delux reloading kit for about $150. By the time I got out of that isle I had a bunch of must have items: scale, trimmer, .223 dies, 300 primers, 1lb of powder....my bill at check out was close to $500. The next trip was another $400 for powder bullet heads .40 and .308 dies, tumbler, media.....I already had all the brass I'll ever need and a supply of projectiles, so not figuring that in I probably invested about $850 before I loaded the 1st round. I'm still adding to the tools to the list like a trickler other manuals....I also discovered that I will probably end up using the Lee for hand gun ammo only. I shoot rifle for accuracy and I am just not seeing the consistency with powder weight/ seating depth with the progressive press. Just things to consider before spending your money. I checked posts where people were saying you can get set up on a budget and start loading for$200-$500, yeah right! Now add another $500 in other items and that will be closer to a correct price
As with all progressives the main cost isn't in the press itself, its in the conversion kits and especially if you get greedy and want to have a dedicated powder meassure for each caliber. Ive easily got twice as much into my caliber conversions as I do in my 550. With that said I think Id go 650 if I had to do it over again. The auto indexing, case feeder, trimmer station and powder check station are very nice for high volume loading. For me personally I don't think the 1050 is really worth the extra cost. Its doesn't load twice as fast as the 650 and it also doesn't come with a lifetime warranty like the 550 and 650 since its considered a commercial press.
If you go the blue machine route youre going to be over 500 real easy. You need to get at least an additional powder measure so you don't have to keep swapping back and forth between the small powder bar and large bar, caliber conversion and Dillon pistol dies will run 150 a caliber, shellplate/powder funnel/ toolhead will run you 80ish plus dies for rifle. At that you haven't even bought a stand for it, more bins, bullet holder, conversion kit stands, etc. It adds up quick but you can make due with less but then youre really not gaining much using a progressive because youll be spending a bunch of time resetting up dies, swapping powder bars and adjusting the measure, all of which take time and really kill your cartridge per hour figure vs a single stage.
On my 550 Ive got a caliber conversion in Dillon dies for 9mm and 45 with a dedicated powder measure for those two, then Ive got caliber conversions for each of my rifle calibers with a dedicated rifle powder measure for them. I only load 223 and 300BLK right now on it but when I get an AR-10 I will load mass consumption 308 on it and I will buy another powder measure so I can leave the large powder bar in it at all times. The Dillon carbide pistol dies are awesome because you can pull the internals out with the pull of a pin so you can clean them without having to reset your dies again. Rifle dies it really doesn't matter, but I would get a competition seater so you can adjust seating depth for different bullets without having to constantly pop loose the lock ring and adjust. This is particularly nice for 223 and 300BLK that I use a wide range of bullets depending on the use.
Getting into a progressive the "right" way is expensive but is well worth it. I don't get pleasure out of loading mass consumption rounds, its just something that steals time away from my family and the range. My precision rifle stuff is much more enjoyable to me as its a methodical process and I love pulling the handle on the rock chucker to seat the long ass bullets knowing I just made a bughole producing round.
If you go the blue machine route youre going to be over 500 real easy. You need to get at least an additional powder measure so you don't have to keep swapping back and forth between the small powder bar and large bar, caliber conversion and Dillon pistol dies will run 150 a caliber, shellplate/powder funnel/ toolhead will run you 80ish plus dies for rifle. At that you haven't even bought a stand for it, more bins, bullet holder, conversion kit stands, etc. It adds up quick but you can make due with less but then youre really not gaining much using a progressive because youll be spending a bunch of time resetting up dies, swapping powder bars and adjusting the measure, all of which take time and really kill your cartridge per hour figure vs a single stage.
On my 550 Ive got a caliber conversion in Dillon dies for 9mm and 45 with a dedicated powder measure for those two, then Ive got caliber conversions for each of my rifle calibers with a dedicated rifle powder measure for them. I only load 223 and 300BLK right now on it but when I get an AR-10 I will load mass consumption 308 on it and I will buy another powder measure so I can leave the large powder bar in it at all times. The Dillon carbide pistol dies are awesome because you can pull the internals out with the pull of a pin so you can clean them without having to reset your dies again. Rifle dies it really doesn't matter, but I would get a competition seater so you can adjust seating depth for different bullets without having to constantly pop loose the lock ring and adjust. This is particularly nice for 223 and 300BLK that I use a wide range of bullets depending on the use.
Getting into a progressive the "right" way is expensive but is well worth it. I don't get pleasure out of loading mass consumption rounds, its just something that steals time away from my family and the range. My precision rifle stuff is much more enjoyable to me as its a methodical process and I love pulling the handle on the rock chucker to seat the long ass bullets knowing I just made a bughole producing round.
Where are you finding all the components required to feed a 650/1050 to the tune of 800 rounds a minute? Sorry, just being a smart ass, but bulk/mass reloading has to be impacted by shortages and is anybody blasting away that much these days? I'm not. BB
I have 5 dillons;
I load everything on them, including long range rifle ammo.
The 650 is for volume. I use a 550 or 450 for long range stuff at a slower pass than the 650.
I load everything on them, including long range rifle ammo.
The 650 is for volume. I use a 550 or 450 for long range stuff at a slower pass than the 650.
i probably should have included this in my first post but i've been reloading off and on for 15 years. i'm not new to this i've just never owned a progessive and i've decided to get into comp shooting so i need to be able to make more then what i can on my single stage and at this point all i need is the press. dillon has the 650 for $566 plus shipping and comes with 1 caliber which will be .40 for me. i'll continue to do my rifle ammo on the single stage until i get that pinned turret assembly somebody mentioned in another dillon post then we'll see
When I first went progressive, I unwisely thought I could save some money and bought a Lee Loadmaster. I knew I'd have to put up with some problems but figured I could find a workaround--Nope. Spent a few days fiddling and tinkering, watching the various videos online, etc--still did not have it operating properly. Boxed it up and returned it, ate shipping both ways, and ponied up for the Dillon 550 and several extra toolheads, shell plates, powder funnels ad nauseum and wound up putting about 1100 bucks in it all. Far more than I intended in the beginning, but I had it up and running in about 2 hrs vs the 2-3 days I spent on the LM that I'll never get back.
Don't get me wrong, I love most Lee products, but I'm not getting any younger and don't really have enough time to work ON my press more than I work WITH it. If you have to save up a little longer or whatever to get a Dillon, it's worth it. A 550 will strain a $500 budget, but you can wait on a lot of the extras. Some extras I consider worth the money are the roller handle and the strong mount which gets the machine at a better height on most benches.
Don't get me wrong, I love most Lee products, but I'm not getting any younger and don't really have enough time to work ON my press more than I work WITH it. If you have to save up a little longer or whatever to get a Dillon, it's worth it. A 550 will strain a $500 budget, but you can wait on a lot of the extras. Some extras I consider worth the money are the roller handle and the strong mount which gets the machine at a better height on most benches.
$500 is a pretty modest budget. I'd bet that with my Dillon 650 with casefeeder set up for multiple calibers, I have $1500ish in just Dillon equipment, not including dies.
The 550 doesn't seem cheaper until you price the conversion kits (you need one for EVERY caliber to get the casefeeder parts), more expensive tool heads, casefeeder rings, etc. The 550 is much cheaper to set up overall.
I would not bother adding a case feeder to a 550. Without auto indexing it's a useless feature.
If you're only doing pistol ammo, don't forget about the square deal press. It uses its own dies and only does pistol cartridges but it is cheap and auto indexing.
Also, the 1050 may seem like it can be set up for a thousand dollars, but remember that it only comes with one priming system, it is even more expensive than the 650 to convert to other calibers, and it doesn't have the same warranty as the 550 and 650. I would LOVE to have a 1050, but I don't, because I shoot just as much 9mm as 45 (perhaps more), and the 1050 really is for someone who shoots one caliber a lot, rather than a solid mix of many calibers.
I sold my 550 and got a 650 in 2012. I don't think it was a terrible decision as I intend to shoot for the next 50 years, but I'm not sure that I'm persuaded that it's really worth the additional hassle. It IS faster, and when it runs, it produces a lot of ammo really quickly, but it is much less forgiving of problems (it's harder to clear problem brass from the shell plate, the priming system puts out a primer whether the case is there to be primed or not, auto indexing can work against you sometimes if you're not careful, etc.). Maybe I'm spoiled and forgot how slow my 550 was comparatively. And don't get me wrong, I'm happy with the 650. I'm just not sure if it really was worth the price premium, and if I hadn't run a 550 for years, I'm not sure I wouldn't have made a lot of really crappy ammo with the 650. Getting used to the 650 is essential, watching everything carefully is part of operating it every single time, and if I hadn't already used the 550, I'm not sure I'd be ready to deal with its occasional quirks. Then again, everyone said that about running a 550 before I got mine, and said I should start with a single stage, and after I got the 550 and got it set up, I thought most of those people were full of shit, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
If strict budget is a concern, and you want to load a few calibers, the 550 is probably a better choice. If you shoot 2k rounds of one caliber a month, however, the 650 is a much better option. For me, I tend to load 2-5000 rounds of pistol ammo in a sitting and then switch calibers and load something else, so that I can hold myself over for 6 months or so before loading that caliber again. The main benefit of the 650 for someone like me is simply time--the 550 did the same thing, it just took a little longer.
The 550 doesn't seem cheaper until you price the conversion kits (you need one for EVERY caliber to get the casefeeder parts), more expensive tool heads, casefeeder rings, etc. The 550 is much cheaper to set up overall.
I would not bother adding a case feeder to a 550. Without auto indexing it's a useless feature.
If you're only doing pistol ammo, don't forget about the square deal press. It uses its own dies and only does pistol cartridges but it is cheap and auto indexing.
Also, the 1050 may seem like it can be set up for a thousand dollars, but remember that it only comes with one priming system, it is even more expensive than the 650 to convert to other calibers, and it doesn't have the same warranty as the 550 and 650. I would LOVE to have a 1050, but I don't, because I shoot just as much 9mm as 45 (perhaps more), and the 1050 really is for someone who shoots one caliber a lot, rather than a solid mix of many calibers.
I sold my 550 and got a 650 in 2012. I don't think it was a terrible decision as I intend to shoot for the next 50 years, but I'm not sure that I'm persuaded that it's really worth the additional hassle. It IS faster, and when it runs, it produces a lot of ammo really quickly, but it is much less forgiving of problems (it's harder to clear problem brass from the shell plate, the priming system puts out a primer whether the case is there to be primed or not, auto indexing can work against you sometimes if you're not careful, etc.). Maybe I'm spoiled and forgot how slow my 550 was comparatively. And don't get me wrong, I'm happy with the 650. I'm just not sure if it really was worth the price premium, and if I hadn't run a 550 for years, I'm not sure I wouldn't have made a lot of really crappy ammo with the 650. Getting used to the 650 is essential, watching everything carefully is part of operating it every single time, and if I hadn't already used the 550, I'm not sure I'd be ready to deal with its occasional quirks. Then again, everyone said that about running a 550 before I got mine, and said I should start with a single stage, and after I got the 550 and got it set up, I thought most of those people were full of shit, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
If strict budget is a concern, and you want to load a few calibers, the 550 is probably a better choice. If you shoot 2k rounds of one caliber a month, however, the 650 is a much better option. For me, I tend to load 2-5000 rounds of pistol ammo in a sitting and then switch calibers and load something else, so that I can hold myself over for 6 months or so before loading that caliber again. The main benefit of the 650 for someone like me is simply time--the 550 did the same thing, it just took a little longer.
308boltgun, You got me, I only have 4-550's and do 90% of my loading on them. I load my 300 RUM and 338 RUM on my 40 year old RCBS Rock Chucker. Get the 550 and don't look back, you could get a 650 later if needed but the 550 is so easy to use. Just my .05
I have a Hornady Progressive and have no complaints, but if you have some extra $$ I'd go for the dillion.
I have heard good things about Hornady progressives. There is a web site with head to head to head (Hornady, Dillon, and Lee) testing. The guy ended up keeping the Hornady.
All that said, I am a blue guy.
I have a 650 with case feeder and can load 1000 rounds of .45 in an hour flat. .223 is about 500 - 600 per hour for the last stage. I load a lot of once fired mil brass, and do two tool heads. One of decap and size. Then I clean off lube and swage primer pockets. Then load (prime, powder, bullet, crimp). That last pass is about 500 - 600 per hour.
I have had my 650 for around 20 years. And if I break something, Dillon still gives me a replacement. One day, I will pull the press apart and send it back. They will replace it with the updated version for $75. But no reason to do so, as it keeps on going.
All that said, I am a blue guy.
I have a 650 with case feeder and can load 1000 rounds of .45 in an hour flat. .223 is about 500 - 600 per hour for the last stage. I load a lot of once fired mil brass, and do two tool heads. One of decap and size. Then I clean off lube and swage primer pockets. Then load (prime, powder, bullet, crimp). That last pass is about 500 - 600 per hour.I have had my 650 for around 20 years. And if I break something, Dillon still gives me a replacement. One day, I will pull the press apart and send it back. They will replace it with the updated version for $75. But no reason to do so, as it keeps on going.
If you go Dillon buy from Brian Enos. He will talk you through your order and save you money. If you spend over $400, and you will, he will ship for free saving you money. The press actually ships from Dillon. If you are not in a hurry for your order Brian Enos will pass on a small discount (1-3% ?) if you mail him a check.
I bought a S1050 from him and have been back to that well adding 4 more calibers. Great service from Brian E.
I bought a S1050 from him and have been back to that well adding 4 more calibers. Great service from Brian E.
The Square Deal B must use the supplied Dillon dies. All other presses can use any dies. Ive found Foster micrometer seating dies for 30-06 incompatible wit the S1050.
They sell a case feeder for the 550 but I think it is pistol calibers only.
Regards your plan on limiting calibers...I was going to load .45 ACP and 30-06 ONLY. Because they use a common shell plate I justified the expense of the S1050 in my mind.
Im now loading .45 ACP, 30-06, 148 grn .38 wadcutters, .223 and .308.
My expenditures in tool heads now exceeds what I initially spent on the machine.
The lock'n'load and dillon are probably the best choices available at that price point. I'm a blue guy, but know a bunch of folks with the LNL that are happy.
Unless you are running A LOT of pistol ammo, the 550 should keep them fed. The 550 on sustained long runs will put out 400+/hour so in a night or two after work you can have a few thousand rounds in the loaded pile. If you are running > 4k/month then I'd point you to the 650/1050.
Unless you are running A LOT of pistol ammo, the 550 should keep them fed. The 550 on sustained long runs will put out 400+/hour so in a night or two after work you can have a few thousand rounds in the loaded pile. If you are running > 4k/month then I'd point you to the 650/1050.
think i'm going to start with just the basic 650 then add the options when i have the extra cash
thanks for the referral pmclaine i'll get ahold of brian when i'm ready to purchase
thanks for the referral pmclaine i'll get ahold of brian when i'm ready to purchase
For $500 or so, you should consider the RCBS Pro2000. I just got one for $528 shipped from Sinclair, though that was with a 10% off holiday coupon. Midway has the shell plates on sale or clearance pretty frequently for about $22 or $24.
Pros - APS priming system is great, easy/cheap/fast caliber changes
Cons - no casefeeder available
I've had 6 Lee 1000 pros and 1 Dillon 650 XL with all the bells and whistles. I CAN honestly say that 2 or 3 crimped military primer pockets and the Lee's are next to the next door stop. Maybe it's because I double check all primers now better than before, but the Dillon is WAY above the Lee.
Here again. Just my opinion. It's your money. Do with it as you please.
Here again. Just my opinion. It's your money. Do with it as you please.
With a $500 budget, there are really only 3 choices: Dillon Square Deal B which does only straight wall pistol and uses only Dillon dies, Dillon 550B in one caliber at $440 (Brian Enos) with additional pistol caliber changes costing $160-$230 each, or the Hornady LnL AP ($430 Midway, Out of Stock) with caliber changes costing . . . nothing . . . or $4 per die if you want to leave them preset in their bushings as you should.
Besides cost the Hornady's advantages are it has 5 die slots, no toolheads to introduce play or "slop", auto-indexing, and fully contained spent primer handling. There is no better powder measure available for any progressive. The primer system needs to be kept clean and has as many quirks to learn about as any progressive . . . this is the weakest point of them all. The warranty is no questions, lifetime, as is Dillon's. I've just put the Case Feeder on mine, and with auto-indexing it saves a LOT of time. I'd add the bullet feeder, but with only 5 die slots I don't yet want to give up on using a powder check die AND separating crimping/unbelling from seating.
The Dillon 650 has 5 die slots and compares well with the Hornady but at a higher price point, even higher if you use more than one caliber. The Dillon 1050 is an outstanding press in a league of it's own . . . with prices to match.
If your batch size is 500 pieces, you will spend more time setting up and cleaning up than you will loading on any of these presses. Which is why so many have multiple Dillons
Besides cost the Hornady's advantages are it has 5 die slots, no toolheads to introduce play or "slop", auto-indexing, and fully contained spent primer handling. There is no better powder measure available for any progressive. The primer system needs to be kept clean and has as many quirks to learn about as any progressive . . . this is the weakest point of them all. The warranty is no questions, lifetime, as is Dillon's. I've just put the Case Feeder on mine, and with auto-indexing it saves a LOT of time. I'd add the bullet feeder, but with only 5 die slots I don't yet want to give up on using a powder check die AND separating crimping/unbelling from seating.
The Dillon 650 has 5 die slots and compares well with the Hornady but at a higher price point, even higher if you use more than one caliber. The Dillon 1050 is an outstanding press in a league of it's own . . . with prices to match.
If your batch size is 500 pieces, you will spend more time setting up and cleaning up than you will loading on any of these presses. Which is why so many have multiple Dillons
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I've got a Dillon 550 setup with the "as it should be" package from Brian enos which includes the strong mount, bullet tray, empty case tray, and roller handle. I love it. I bought it first wanting progressive that didn't auto index and I find myself using it more than my Redding T7 turret presses now for rifle rounds. I essentially use it as a single stage if you will. I had two T7's but sold one to a friend after I set up my 550 with a few cal conversions.
I have a 650 sitting in the box to do pistol rounds with but I haven't set it up yet as I still have thousands of rounds of factory stuff. The auto index is a certain advantage for pistol rounds so you don't slip up and double charge a case.
I have a 650 sitting in the box to do pistol rounds with but I haven't set it up yet as I still have thousands of rounds of factory stuff. The auto index is a certain advantage for pistol rounds so you don't slip up and double charge a case.
All I see flying around in here it's which one is "better." Honestly it all comes down to preference. There has been a few that was quite informative and others not so much. When I was in the market for one my buddy pointed me towards http://ultimatereloader.com and said start there. I think that is a good place to start.
-Dick-
-Dick-
My first progressive was a Dillon Square Deal "B". I later upgraded to a Hornady LnL and got the case feeder and bullet feeder to go with it.
The Square Deal "B" was a wonderful press. Caliber changes were quick and easy, even when switching primer sizes. I simply wanted to upgrade to a machine that could mass produce rifle cartridges and that I could add a case feeder to.
I'm sort of wishing I would have gotten a Dillon 650 instead of the LnL. Although the LnL works fine for me, it seems really "quirky." Like others have said, the priming area must be kept ultra clean. I've never ran a Dillon 550 or 650, so I don't know how "quirky" either of those machines are. I DO know that I would rather have a 650 for it's auto indexing. I personally don't see the advantage of owning a 550 versus a 650, even considering the price differential.
The Square Deal "B" was a wonderful press. Caliber changes were quick and easy, even when switching primer sizes. I simply wanted to upgrade to a machine that could mass produce rifle cartridges and that I could add a case feeder to.
I'm sort of wishing I would have gotten a Dillon 650 instead of the LnL. Although the LnL works fine for me, it seems really "quirky." Like others have said, the priming area must be kept ultra clean. I've never ran a Dillon 550 or 650, so I don't know how "quirky" either of those machines are. I DO know that I would rather have a 650 for it's auto indexing. I personally don't see the advantage of owning a 550 versus a 650, even considering the price differential.
The 650 is super versatile. Dillon isn't just trowing out the marketing hype with their no BS warranty. KaBoom'd the primer system on my 650. Called Dillon to order new parts, they sent me an entire replacement small primer feeder. Brain Enos "as it should be" packages are a great starting point.
With my 650, I purchased a complete primer assembly to speed up changes. That is the slow part, converting the primer system. With a second primer system, it is two bolts to swap them.
The other thing is to plan your reloading. Do all small primer caliber reloading, then switch and do your large primer reloading.
The other thing is to plan your reloading. Do all small primer caliber reloading, then switch and do your large primer reloading.
Well I guess I need to throw in on this one. Upon advice from a fellow shooter I just purchased and started using an RCBS 2000 progressive on 45's. This is my first progressive and I'm having issues from what I'm reading here. First as the shell plate comes around it will throw powder out of pistol brass, can't find an adjustment to avoid that. Second, I can't get any consistancy throwing powder. I can run ten drops at +/- a tenth then all the sudden it will either drop -5 tenths or +5 tenths. Now I've been told I need to trim pistol brass to avoid that. If I set up on a longer piece of brass and these drop a charge into a shorter piece it will not lift up the lever all the way to drop the full powder charge (or vice versa). I'm about ready to go back to single stage loading unless I get find somebody local to help with this. My bud lives far far away....
I won't go into what I think about Lee dies and the crappy O-ring issues I've had.
I won't go into what I think about Lee dies and the crappy O-ring issues I've had.
Sorry to hear you are having these issue. I actually enjoy making my own ammo so it sucks when you hear someone is having issues that may discourage them from reloading.
I have no idea about the functioning of your type press but one thing that doesn't seem right is the thought you need to trim pistol brass. I run a Dillon and it operates off the case mouth also. I can understand the theory behind needing consistent pistol brass for consistent powder drops but in reality I don't trim and I don't see variances in my drops.
What powder are you loading some drops have problems with different powders. I load W231 for .38 wad cutters and .45 ACP with great consistency. I have read flake type pistol powders can cause issues and when loading rifle some stick powders can be trouble.
Regards spilling powder when the shell plate indexes Dillon users have a number of remedies in calibers that have that issue. These remedies include bearing plates under the shell plate and adjustments in how the operator pulls the handle. You may find remedies specific to your press on YouTube or over at the Brian Enos Forum in the other manufacturers press forum. What powder are you using that fills a .45 caliber trash can to the point it can spill over? I load 5.3 grins W231 in my .45 loads and there is plenty of case above the load to contain the powder.
Hope you figure it out.
All of these folks are trying to be helpful, offering advice based on what they have seen/experienced, so I will try to do that also:
Got my first Dillon (a 550) back in the mid-90's after using other stuff for 20+ years.
Get a Dillon and do not look back........suggest the 550.
If you later decide you want the 650, you should be able to sell the 550 and the various components with no difficulty.
I keep toolheads set up with Dillon dies for the common pistol calibers, and mostly Redding dies for everything else.
There are two significant problems when you have a good progressive press, one is trying to keep enough components on hand (bullets/brass/primers), the other is when your buddies find out that you have a good progressive press and want you to load for them.
Got my first Dillon (a 550) back in the mid-90's after using other stuff for 20+ years.
Get a Dillon and do not look back........suggest the 550.
If you later decide you want the 650, you should be able to sell the 550 and the various components with no difficulty.
I keep toolheads set up with Dillon dies for the common pistol calibers, and mostly Redding dies for everything else.
There are two significant problems when you have a good progressive press, one is trying to keep enough components on hand (bullets/brass/primers), the other is when your buddies find out that you have a good progressive press and want you to load for them.
My handloading regimen requires that I check/adjust each charge, so getting automated any further than the RL550B makes no sense for me. Bought a used setup in the mid-90's, been happy with mine ever since. If I were handloading pistol calibers, I'd seriously consider getting an additional 650.
The 550 will do anything a single stage will do, and the interchangeable toolhead saves time with caliber conversions, as well as allowing a separate setup for different rifles in the same chambering. As complex as that may seem, it really saves a bunch of time overall; and I really do believe it allays that reluctance to do a caliber switch. I keep two primer feed setups, compete with the primer pickup slide, and the caliber change goes like a greased snake.
I considerate the RL550B to be like unto the legitimate offspring of a Cadillac and a Mack Truck.
My 550B became that press your buddies find out about, and served the later 1990's as our shooting team press with a dozen or more users. When I moved up here to CNY in 1998, they went with a 650 as a replacement. Their comments echo Gimpy's and they really would prefer the 550B for their rifle cartridge handloading.
Greg
The 550 will do anything a single stage will do, and the interchangeable toolhead saves time with caliber conversions, as well as allowing a separate setup for different rifles in the same chambering. As complex as that may seem, it really saves a bunch of time overall; and I really do believe it allays that reluctance to do a caliber switch. I keep two primer feed setups, compete with the primer pickup slide, and the caliber change goes like a greased snake.
I considerate the RL550B to be like unto the legitimate offspring of a Cadillac and a Mack Truck.
My 550B became that press your buddies find out about, and served the later 1990's as our shooting team press with a dozen or more users. When I moved up here to CNY in 1998, they went with a 650 as a replacement. Their comments echo Gimpy's and they really would prefer the 550B for their rifle cartridge handloading.
Greg
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How's the press treating you? Did you ever get the frame fixed on the one UPS trashed? I've definitely come to appreciate my Dillon presses. Like you said, the LnL is quirky, but gets the job done. I wish Hornady would refine the design a little more.
Press is working pretty good. I never did try and repair the frame. For those not "in the know," I bought a LnL Ammo Plant (used) from Gimpy. Although he packed it well when he shipped it to me, UPS damaged it in shipment and cracked the frame in a few places. UPS paid out on the claim and I bought a new press. UPS let me keep the damaged one which I'm keeping around for spare parts.
RCBS will send you a lighter spring free of charge to fix the powder splash with pistol cases. On mine, if I slow down my lever pulling I can eliminate the splash even with the factory spring.
As for the powder measure:
1) Did you clean/degrease the uniflow measure before using it? Mine came pretty oily from the factory.
2) You should be able to adjust the measure so that it moves the lever the full distance for all cases. The variability in pistol brass lengths shouldn't be enough to alter the charge you're dropping.
3) It needs a baffle. RCBS sells one but god only knows why they don't include it with the measure.
4) Cleaning and Tuning a Uniflow PM, lots of pics
Thanks for the ARcom link. I cleaned all the pieces with brake cleaner before I put it together. I'll go back and do it again. I also had a baffle in it but don't have enough powder in the cylinder to come up to the baffle. I try not to pour out any more than I plan on using. I was using 6.5 grains of Unique so I'll try 231.
Also thanks for the info on the spring, I'll call them tomorrow.
I'm also going to change to RCBS dies. I don't like the sloppy adjustments on the Lee's.
Also thanks for the info on the spring, I'll call them tomorrow.
I'm also going to change to RCBS dies. I don't like the sloppy adjustments on the Lee's.
I have a Lee Loadmaster. Before I bought it, I did some reading and discovered that none of the progressives on the market are perfect, they all need attention/tuning/maintenance, so I went for the least expensive.
I have spent a lot of time sorting various issues with it, and I have a machine shop, so some of the fixes are beyond the capabilities of the average reloader. I have broken/worn out a few parts and Lee is quick to ship replacements, no questions asked.
The auto indexing system on the Lee is hokey, and when I first saw it, I had to laugh, but it has functioned reliably for about 20,000 rounds.
I hand prime because of the inconsistent results I got priming in the press. Maybe for 3 times the cost, you get a more reliable priming system in a Dillon, but from what I've read, they do not achieve mechanical perfection either. This step costs me some extra time reloading each round, but I sit inside with the wife watching TV while I plow through up to several thousand cases at a time, so I don't consider it lost time.
These days, though, I just swap out the shellholder and dieholder (I leave the dies setup), get the powder measure set (Hornady Lock 'n Load or Lee Autodisk Pro, the Lee Perfect Powder measure is pretty much junk) and go to town, up to 500 rounds/hour feeding cases and bullets by hand.
Sometimes I get the urge to checkout a Dillon, but until the Lee stops working, I can't justify it. I doubt it will ever stop working, since Lee keeps shipping replacement wear items.
I single load for the bolt guns on a Co-Ax.
Joe
I have spent a lot of time sorting various issues with it, and I have a machine shop, so some of the fixes are beyond the capabilities of the average reloader. I have broken/worn out a few parts and Lee is quick to ship replacements, no questions asked.
The auto indexing system on the Lee is hokey, and when I first saw it, I had to laugh, but it has functioned reliably for about 20,000 rounds.
I hand prime because of the inconsistent results I got priming in the press. Maybe for 3 times the cost, you get a more reliable priming system in a Dillon, but from what I've read, they do not achieve mechanical perfection either. This step costs me some extra time reloading each round, but I sit inside with the wife watching TV while I plow through up to several thousand cases at a time, so I don't consider it lost time.
These days, though, I just swap out the shellholder and dieholder (I leave the dies setup), get the powder measure set (Hornady Lock 'n Load or Lee Autodisk Pro, the Lee Perfect Powder measure is pretty much junk) and go to town, up to 500 rounds/hour feeding cases and bullets by hand.
Sometimes I get the urge to checkout a Dillon, but until the Lee stops working, I can't justify it. I doubt it will ever stop working, since Lee keeps shipping replacement wear items.
I single load for the bolt guns on a Co-Ax.
Joe
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