Proof CF prefit in a Tikka factory stock?

[Freediver111]

I have a T3 in .338 win that I’ve been struggling with for months. Tried many combos of bullets and powders and just not seeing the accuracy I’m looking for. Sure, accurate enough for 300-400 yards, but that’s not what I’m looking for.

I thought I found a load using Hammer Hunter 210 grain bullets, but last time I was at the range I had several flyers. Not exactly a confidence booster.
I’m getting to the point of seriously considering getting a proof prefit and making it a 300 wsm. This is my hunting rifle, and I will be using a brake. Reason for Proof is I can get a small discount on them, but they’re out of stock for a while. I don’t mind waiting though.
My question is, has anyone successfully put a prefit CF proof on a Tikka and opened the stock without losing a bunch of stiffness? I’m not unhappy with the factory T3X stock, and actually feel it’s a decent stock, especially with the vertical grip installed. Sure, it’s not amazing, but works fine, especially for hunting.
If opening up the factory stock is dicey, I may just opt for the stainless factory contour proof makes and thread it for a brake.
Can anyone advise? Rather not have to spend double the amount for a carbon barrel and new stock.

 

[huntnh]

Tuned in I was curious about the same thing different caliber

 

[HousePlant]

The CF barrels are usually "bull barrel" or "heavy barrel" sized and probably won't fit in the channel of the factory stock. Certainly not on my Ultralite's. I would get the standard factory counter barrel and not spend the money on CF. Why? Because you're firing a 338 WIN out of a very, very light rifle already. Are you sure your accuracy isn't the fact you're firing a kicker of a round out of an anorexic rifle?

 

[Freediver111]

The CF barrels are usually "bull barrel" or "heavy barrel" sized and probably won't fit in the channel of the factory stock. Certainly not on my Ultralite's. I would get the standard factory counter barrel and not spend the money on CF. Why? Because you're firing a 338 WIN out of a very, very light rifle already. Are you sure your accuracy isn't the fact you're firing a kicker of a round out of an anorexic rifle?

I did consider the fact that it might be me and not the gun, but I do have a brake on this one and it doesn’t beat me up at all. Very reasonable recoil with a Schuler brake on there.
I thought the hammer hunters would be the ticket, and managed some good groups, but as I said it tends to walk at random. I was at the range a few weeks ago and cold bore shot was dead on. Second shot was 2” high, third round dead on, fourth shot 3” high. I’m not a professional shooter, but I do well at our local comps with other rifles. Well as in I’m usually 1st or second out of a dozen or so guys that compete. Again though, I’m not a pro so I can’t say it’s not me. I’m not scared of this gun and as mentioned, recoil is tame with the brake. I have put many rounds down range in a full day and haven’t had any problems flinching or being sore. I don’t know, just seems odd.
I tried 210 hammer hunters, 230 eldx, 200 and 225 grain Accubonds, 200 and 225 etips, and 210 swifts. All with 4831sc, RL19, and 4350. As said, I can get it to shoot ok, certainly ok for 300-400 ranges, but it’s not shooting tight enough to provide consistency at longer ranges.

 

[HousePlant]

Is this inconsistency happening when you first get to the range and the barrel is cold or only after a while when the barrel core temp (so to speak) is hot? Tikka hunting rifle barrels are thin, man. They are going to lose accuracy when they're hot, especially with a big magnum. Also, I've heard anecdotally that Tikkas aren't well-known for being the most accurate above a 300 Win Mag. Something about the chambering, the throat. Have you played with bullet seating depth? Last thing to check is of course the scope and scope mounting. That all over the place POI makes me thing optics more than it does the rifle, unless you have a blown out barrel.

 

[Freediver111]

Is this inconsistency happening when you first get to the range and the barrel is cold or only after a while when the barrel core temp (so to speak) is hot? Tikka hunting rifle barrels are thin, man. They are going to lose accuracy when they're hot, especially with a big magnum. Also, I've heard anecdotally that Tikkas aren't well-known for being the most accurate above a 300 Win Mag. Something about the chambering, the throat. Have you played with bullet seating depth? Last thing to check is of course the scope and scope mounting. That all over the place POI makes me thing optics more than it does the rifle, unless you have a blown out barrel.

It’s definitely not the scope or mount. Checked all of those and they’re good. Mounted the scope on another rifle and it tracked amazing. Using a mountain tactical rail I bedded, Seekins rings, and a Bushy LRTS.
Last range session I thought many times that I was having heat issues. It was warm out, and cold bore shot was dead on. Second shot off, third on, and fourth way off again. I’m hitting the range this weekend and temps are way colder than last time so that might reveal some interesting results. I can’t play with seating depth as it’s restricted by the mag, and I’m not carrying a single shot in Alaskan grizzly country. That’s one of the reasons I was eyeballing the 300 wsm in a long action Tikka. Long action essentially being the bolt stop, but it would afford a means to adjust seating depths.

 

[HousePlant]

The 300 WSM is my fav round so... I approve.