I've been searching this forum and have seen posts about the proper amount of torque when mounting a scope. I'm currently waiting on a viper pst 6-24x50 from liberty optics. Is the correct torque listed in the owners manual, and if not would be grateful for any help. I have not picked out rings as I'm waiting to see what size I will need for a savage 10fp in .308.
Rifle Scopes proper scope torque
- Thread starter grayghost
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Re: proper scope torque
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TheOneTwo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It will depend entirely upon what rings you get. Get them first then we can help you answer that question. </div></div>
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TheOneTwo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It will depend entirely upon what rings you get. Get them first then we can help you answer that question. </div></div>
this
Re: proper scope torque
Are you asking for the cross bolts or cap screws? Do you have a torque wrench/screwdriver?
Are you asking for the cross bolts or cap screws? Do you have a torque wrench/screwdriver?
Re: proper scope torque
I'm talking about the cap screws. I do not have a torque wrench but getting one is on my list, as I don't want to screw up a new scope. At present I'm using a 3-9 x40 burris? oval hunting scope. I've been able to get .5 five shot groups at 100yds with 175smk and 44.5 varget. I do have a 20moa base mounted on the rifle. I'm still new at this but will post agian when I get the rings. Thanks to all.
I'm talking about the cap screws. I do not have a torque wrench but getting one is on my list, as I don't want to screw up a new scope. At present I'm using a 3-9 x40 burris? oval hunting scope. I've been able to get .5 five shot groups at 100yds with 175smk and 44.5 varget. I do have a 20moa base mounted on the rifle. I'm still new at this but will post agian when I get the rings. Thanks to all.
Re: proper scope torque
You're welcome. Might I recommend, rather than waste money on a cheap torque wrench, that you invest in a lapping kit like the ones sold at sinclairintl.com. Follow the directions and it will prevent damaging a new scope and increase the amount of surface area actually holding the scope in place. Even with expensive Badger and Lightforce rings, I've removed an appreciable amount of material to get the rings trued. My scopes have never moved since I began doing that, while I had problem with previous mounts. Cap screws usually have a max torque of 15-17 in/lbs, which isn't much. If you don't have much ring touching the scope, It will creep forward over time. Hope this helps!
You're welcome. Might I recommend, rather than waste money on a cheap torque wrench, that you invest in a lapping kit like the ones sold at sinclairintl.com. Follow the directions and it will prevent damaging a new scope and increase the amount of surface area actually holding the scope in place. Even with expensive Badger and Lightforce rings, I've removed an appreciable amount of material to get the rings trued. My scopes have never moved since I began doing that, while I had problem with previous mounts. Cap screws usually have a max torque of 15-17 in/lbs, which isn't much. If you don't have much ring touching the scope, It will creep forward over time. Hope this helps!
Re: proper scope torque
I would not recommend just jumping into lapping your rings right away. If your base is bedded properly so everything is square there is no need to lap rings. It voids the warranty on some rings and will cause the rings to be rough and put ring marks on your scope. Also if you lap to much it can make the rings to large and actually cause your scope to slip more easily.
Since I started bedding my bases and using alignment bars to make sure everything is square I have not needed to lap a set of rings.
I would not recommend just jumping into lapping your rings right away. If your base is bedded properly so everything is square there is no need to lap rings. It voids the warranty on some rings and will cause the rings to be rough and put ring marks on your scope. Also if you lap to much it can make the rings to large and actually cause your scope to slip more easily.
Since I started bedding my bases and using alignment bars to make sure everything is square I have not needed to lap a set of rings.
Re: proper scope torque
I have always heard 15 INCH-pounds (emphasis added) recommended for cap screws. As was noted above, that is not a lot of torque - less than I thought when I finally invested in a decent torque wrench.
I have always heard 15 INCH-pounds (emphasis added) recommended for cap screws. As was noted above, that is not a lot of torque - less than I thought when I finally invested in a decent torque wrench.
Re: proper scope torque
Without a torque wrench, you can get 15 inch pounds by holding the short end of the the supplied wrench that usually comes with the rings.
If you buy quality rings and quality rail you will not need to lap the rings.
Spec torque for cap screws is usually 15-20 inch pounds depending on the rings.
Without a torque wrench, you can get 15 inch pounds by holding the short end of the the supplied wrench that usually comes with the rings.
If you buy quality rings and quality rail you will not need to lap the rings.
Spec torque for cap screws is usually 15-20 inch pounds depending on the rings.
Re: proper scope torque
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sawhornsoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you buy quality rings and quality rail you will not need to lap the rings. </div></div>
Thats not always a for sure either. The rings and base can be perfect, but if the top of the receiver is a little out a whack it can make the rings and base not line up.
That is where the alignment bars come in, that way a person can know for sure.
Lapping is just a band-aid over a bigger problem.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sawhornsoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you buy quality rings and quality rail you will not need to lap the rings. </div></div>
Thats not always a for sure either. The rings and base can be perfect, but if the top of the receiver is a little out a whack it can make the rings and base not line up.
That is where the alignment bars come in, that way a person can know for sure.
Lapping is just a band-aid over a bigger problem.
