I still have mine. Over 1k rounds without issue. I'll update when I have to rebarrel.
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I saw those cans release as well. Super cool.Well with the griffin MGL110 now out decided to reserve one. Will be getting the gas block and Flash hider when i can then BRT gas tube and I’m gonna order the Sabre 110 as soon as i can. So mock 110 in the works
I saw that they were like $2k and immediately lost interestI saw those cans release as well. Super cool.
Same with me, but with their own barrels shooting at or under 1moa I would think these would be performing better?Me either. But i couldn’t really find anything positive on them if I’m being honest.
I assume so but I’m not so sure how well their barrels are shooting till i can get the Sabre 110 after i get the mgl110. Seems like around or at 1 MOA is about as good as it gets with receptions. Granted there really aren’t too many reviews on it from an accuracy standpointSame with me, but with their own barrels shooting at or under 1moa I would think these would be performing better?
I'm sorry if I missed this "Faxon" barrel part.... where does PSA say they are going to use a Faxon barrel ?Very excited to see how these shoot. I dont have any experience with the faxon match large frame barrels, and i cant really find much on the internet.
I had to rewatch the video but the guy mentions it. When he talks about the 5R rifling going through the differences between forged and billet modelsI'm sorry if I missed this "Faxon" barrel part.... where does PSA say they are going to use a Faxon barrel ?
That would surprise me as well.
Mentions it on the original Instagram video I believeI had to rewatch the video but the guy mentions it. When he talks about the 5R rifling going through the differences between forged and billet models
Well... I hope those work out for PSA. I wonder what Mark at DC Machine has to say about the Faxon Barrels.Mentions it on the original Instagram video I believe
I finally noticed it. Thank YouI had to rewatch the video but the guy mentions it. When he talks about the 5R rifling going through the differences between forged and billet models
Yeah not too bad. Just want them to be reliable. I can probably work up a load that will shoot or at the very least change barrelIf you watch the impacts it's holding a pretty decent group all things considered.
No excessive wear, great accuracy, nothing coming loose, I still stand behind what I said a while back. You will want to cycle the adjustable gas block periodically just to keep the carbon free, but other than that, it just runs like a good machine should.Go on…
I only have about 650ish rounds through mine without any issues, other than the stock mags are shit. I think this guy lays it out pretty well.
I only have about 650ish rounds through mine without any issues, other than the stock mags are shit. I think this guy lays it out pretty well.
How does one bed an AR barrel? I know what you mean but I never seen it done.I think if he were to bed the PSA barrel he'd eliminate the flyers. The alternating groups from the SR25 is caused by the gatelock silencer.
I think if he were to bed the PSA barrel he'd eliminate the flyers
some people use green loctite, others use SS shim material, 0.001" thick, or 0.0015", 0.002". If you're going to those lengths for a precision set-up, consider lapping the front face of the receiver, also.How does one bed an AR barrel? I know what you mean but I never seen it done.
Ehhhhhh I've done the bedding with cheap barrels before and just ended up with a cheap barrel that was really hard to yank off and replace with a better one
His fliers at distance looked like wind and bullets going transonic all it takes a little puff of wind and a 308 moves 2-3ft
Anyways they're a good value 1k for a complete rifle with adjustable gas, 2 stage trigger etc:
That’s kinda my idea. Being that this would be my first AR10 I’d probably shoot it for a while and eventually change to a good barrel, stock, trigger and start from there. It seemed like a good starting pointIf you want actual consistent performance downrange, pay the entry-level premium for that with the top tier companies or have a reputable smith do it right for you. If you have to ask, your “smith" is probably not reputable.
My GAP .260 Rem with Bartlein barrel is a giggle laser out to long range. It’s kind of a waste of time to shoot anything closer than 700yds unless you’re just doing game small TGTs or speed stages.
Having been an AR-10 guy since the 1980s, I would only look at the PSA as a project gun baseline to start with, already knowing I’m pulling the barrel.
If I’m going to drop 1k into a project gun, I’m going to select billet receivers, a Bootleg carrier, semi monolithic upper, trigger of choice, etc. and have a Bartlein spun up by an older machinist who has a lifelong case of OCD.
For a first-time gun, do you knowingly want problems or get the best you can get?That’s kinda my idea. Being that this would be my first AR10 I’d probably shoot it for a while and eventually change to a good barrel, stock, trigger and start from there. It seemed like a good starting point
I agree with a lot of what you’re saying since my 2 bolt guns and my Rimfire are full custom rifles but, I know I like bolt guns and long range shooting so I don’t mind spending money on that. My AR is a LWRC DI that I really like and has never given me trouble. I just don’t know about the large frame platform enough to want to drop a bunch of money on something I might not like, I don’t run my ARs particularly hard but I do enjoy accuracy. What would you recommend in the 1,500-2k’ish range?For a first-time gun, do you knowingly want problems or get the best you can get?
Like a girlfriend with cold sores on her mouth and crotchety BO, it ain’t fun.
I was spoiled with AR-10s because my first was an ArmaLite.
I later got a DPMS LR-308, which was a POS that needed a lot of work.
In hindsight, I would not have bothered with the DPMS and just would have done another ArmaLite or KAC.
Price differences at the time was about $600 - $800 for the ArmaLite, which was more than worth it since it always ran and printed unbelievably-stupid small groups.
The DPMS folded the extractor over within the first 20 rounds, and didn’t shoot much better than 1.5” at 100yds.
Another thing is small parts. I don’t trust the cheap, cost-cutter small parts in ARs, especially AR-10s.
Things tend to come loose more or break with the cheap guns, especially bolt catches.
Best to save yourself the headache and get quality up front.
It’s such a nice feeling not worrying about whether a rifle will run or shoot well, so you can just focus on hitting targets and enjoying the experience. The last thing I want to do anymore is go to the range and troubleshoot someone else’s problems.
agree with this 100%If you want actual consistent performance downrange, pay the entry-level premium for that with the top tier companies or have a reputable smith do it right for you. If you have to ask, your “smith" is probably not reputable.
My GAP .260 Rem with Bartlein barrel is a giggle laser out to long range. It’s kind of a waste of time to shoot anything closer than 700yds unless you’re just doing game small TGTs or speed stages.
Having been an AR-10 guy since the 1980s, I would only look at the PSA as a project gun baseline to start with, already knowing I’m pulling the barrel.
If I’m going to drop 1k into a project gun, I’m going to select billet receivers, a Bootleg carrier, semi monolithic upper, trigger of choice, etc. and have a Bartlein spun up by an older machinist who has a lifelong case of OCD.