Gunsmithing PTG SA 700 1 piece bolt dimension, lugs to handle??

[mk74]

My factory rem 700 timing is awful, handle is too far back that I have to grind lil bit of metal behind the handle to clear the action (didn't know anything about timing when I bought the rifle). I would like to get the PTG 1 piece bolt but would like to know first if its gonna be a better fit.

I'm interested about the dimension from surface behind the lugs to the surface in front of the handle

anybody knows?

I emailed PTG but the girls gave me a generic answer - "The lugs will have to be lapped and you will also need headspacing". But what about the dimension I asked?

Thanks guys

 

[Gene Poole]

I've often wondered about that too. I assume the PTG bolts are high quality, but what about the action? I opted for the PTG bolt handle and soldered it to the Remington bolt so I know it's perfectly timed (or at least as perfect as I could get it with my skills). With the one-piece, you really don't have any options if it is too far out.

 

[mk74]

Hey Gene, thanks for replying. What kind of tools do you need to solder it yourself? If I can solder it, I would get the 2 pc bolt so I can get a lil bit bigger bolt diameter. The rifle is shooting like a full custom right now with my loads so I think the action is OK. I just want a better timing and a more fluid action.

 

[jonaddis84]

I believe you can specify that dimension when ordering, so measure from your action lug abutment to the extraction face and add .010".

Galaxy S3 on tapatalk

 

[STR]

I just fit one today that did not fit the action until I trued the action. After truing which included removing .004 from the action abutments, the bolt cleared the action by just a couple of thousands. I'm sorry that I can't give you what you're looking for, but either the actions vary by a few .ooo's or the bolt dimensions do. This is the second one piece bolt that I use from PTG, and the first one fell right in. If you're not messing with truing the action, then I see nothing wrong with removing a little from in front of the bolt handle until it drops in plus about .004 clearance. The .004 clearance can be had by lapping the lugs in after the bolt just closes, and this agian, if you're not truing the action.

 

[Gene Poole]

Hey Gene, thanks for replying. What kind of tools do you need to solder it yourself? If I can solder it, I would get the 2 pc bolt so I can get a lil bit bigger bolt diameter. The rifle is shooting like a full custom right now with my loads so I think the action is OK. I just want a better timing and a more fluid action.

I built a gizmo for this, but never used it. I took Chad Dixon's advice and ground down the jaws on a needle-nose vice grips. The vice-grips method has the advantage of being able to hold it all together AND cycle it in the action to ensure perfect timing before hitting it with the flame.

 

[Sonic Crack]

Welcome to Accu-TIG

 

[Edds]

You are supposed to remove metal from the back of the bolt lugs to make the PTG bolt fit.

 

[E. Bryant]

In my experience, taking ~0.005" from the action lugs will allow the bolt to drop in place. The result is a lot more primary extraction that one typically finds with the factory bolt.

I did have one action that required a bit of filing to the bolt slot, even after taking the customary truing pass across the lugs (this slot wasn't perfectly square from the factory - surprise! - and I had to take off a couple thou before the bolt handle would close).

 

[LRI]

When David Kiff first considered the notion of building one piece bolts we talked about it a bit. My thoughts were to add material to the rear side of the bolt lugs. The idea being it gives the person fitting the bolt the ability to resolve the issue your experiencing. It also allows it to adapt to actions that have been altered by accurizing. Last, it allows a barreled action already fitted up to get back in the game w/o having to pull the barrel and alter the chamber depth to bring the gun into H/S.

It's a pretty cool setup provided you approach it with the proper tools/skill sets to make it work as intended.

If the handle is the issue with your piece, having it timed/TIG welded is another option. It's an easy process for us with minimal turnaround time. (couple days). I don't use elaborate fixtures or rely on you taking measurements that I have to later interpret. We ask the cst to send the barreled action along with the bolt.

Remington has multiple molds for the handles and while most drop into place, there's some that require additional work to get the timing spot on. The ones that are out often times have the lugs slightly out of proper clock position. 6-12 is what your after to ensure maximum surface contact. It's immediately identifiable cause the cocking piece won't have a resistance free path to the bottom of its stroke. It'll hit the ramp before it comes to the root of the cam surface. One of the contributors to "bolt bounce".

The slight differences in the handle lie mainly with the end portion of the "strap" that contacts the raceway to prevent over rotation when coming out of battery. Some are slightly longer than others (meaning they wrap further around the bolt body.) Were talking a few .001" here but it's enough to radically alter how a bolt runs in the receiver. Especially when applying coatings like Cerakote because of the film thickness. Ever feel a bolt that "sticks" a pinch when the handle begins to be enveloped by the rear bridge features. This is often the cause. (again, coating accentuates the problem if its not addressed before hand.)





Happy to help if you get stuck.

C.

 

[PCR]

The pt&g bolts that we've used either drop right in to an uncut 700 or will after truing the receiver, removing only a few thou. from the receiver lugs.

We did have 1 bolt that the lugs needed to be set back quite a bit to fit the trued receiver.