Night Vision PVS-30 Objective Cap Thoughts / Opinions (used a vortex defender)

mrBeBot

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Minuteman
Jul 28, 2017
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TLDR: Stretched out a Vortex Defender Cap - Am I blocking the objective lens enough to loose performance?

I was trolling the europtic PVS30 thread where a tangent led to brown replacement rubber covers from eBay and subsequently drove me in to an internet rabbit hole looking for a decent objective cover. Several search strings that involved using objective lenses in 1mm increments from 60 to 75 led me to some birding forum where a member used Vortex defender caps for his setup because the ring was "super stretchy and indestructible."

My PVS-30 usually sits in front of a Razor II or AMG so I could appreciate using a Vortex cap and figured they'd take care of me with their awesome warranty if I did manage to rip it so I ordered one. It actually fits great! I love that the cap folds flat and it's more durable than the included rubber cap

However, my concern is, am I restricting all important photons from entering the objective by inducing a coke bottle like cavity?

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First time designing scope caps, figuring out tolerance for a good snap fit.

IHMO the rear cap can use more attention, I have some ideas to allow the rear cap to be actuated when the -30 is installed on the rail in front of the day scope, stay tuned...

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First time designing scope caps, figuring out tolerance for a good snap fit.

IHMO the rear cap can use more attention, I have some ideas to allow the rear cap to be actuated when the -30 is installed on the rail in front of the day scope, stay tuned...

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print some for the nvision halo lr when you get it figured out.
 
I don't have an issue with the rear cap having to be manually popped open before install. Maybe once I have forgotten, and suspect something like gluing on a foam spike so the shape is wrong, it interferes (without damaging) would be enough to avoid that.

But send me that objective as soon as it's done! :) Hate the rubber one in concept and practice. Esp having seen crazy cool things like the TIG cover+switch in one, shocked at how lame this is.

(Also if anyone is really hard up for a cover right away, I have another couple new-unused brown ones, and my original used black one I guess. Can sell for not very much).
 
Making some progress on this...

Obviously many -myself included- are a big fan of the AAD caps, and my design is very similar to it. But I don't want to just make another copy, it doesn't fell right and also just, well, boring.

So the one major change I made is to remove the clamping protrusion at 9 o'clock and build it into the top where the flip cap and the body connect.

Now I'm waiting from screws, nuts, and springs to be delivered, test fit the whole thing, finish some remaining tweaks (e.g. finger tab on the flip cap), and then it will be off to the MJF printer.

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I don't have an issue with the rear cap having to be manually popped open before install. Maybe once I have forgotten, and suspect something like gluing on a foam spike so the shape is wrong, it interferes (without damaging) would be enough to avoid that.

But send me that objective as soon as it's done! :) Hate the rubber one in concept and practice. Esp having seen crazy cool things like the TIG cover+switch in one, shocked at how lame this is.

(Also if anyone is really hard up for a cover right away, I have another couple new-unused brown ones, and my original used black one I guess. Can sell for not very much).

I'm a big fan of the TigIR cover as well, so that's on my list to investigate to see if I can incorporate.
 
Getting close to how I want it.

Silent actuation because it doesn't snap in/out, but rather stay secure with the bungee cord. Minimal side protrusion because the clamping mechanism is integrated into the 12 o'clock position.
 

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Would you be thinking about making one for PVS 27? I like the design.
The plan is to start with -30 because I have one for R&D, and if it proves to work well, then making it for other models shouldn't be too big of a problem. (Still need to get a -27 for myself, too bad as it seems the price for it have been going up lately)
 
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The plan is to start with -30 because I have one for R&D, and if it proves to work well, then making it for other models shouldn't be too big of a problem. (Still need to get a -27 for myself, too bad as it seems the price for it have been going up lately)
mockingbirdprecision.com has 27's (can't tell if they're refurb or NOS) for 7500. Not a bad deal.
 
This is really fantastic work. LMK if custom sizes are on the table. I'd love to have a flip front cap for my Hensoldt spotter, for example.

I will need to make a few different ones to figure out the tolerance before offering truly custom size. But if there are enough requests for a specific model I can also prioritize working on that.
 
Naw, the zoom ring adds a bit of weight, but single digit oz. Still trying to decide if I like it, may make my own (shorter, plastic) paddle vs the big steel one in the end though.

The objective cap is probably lighter than the rubber monstrosity really.
 
Naw, the zoom ring adds a bit of weight, but single digit oz. Still trying to decide if I like it, may make my own (shorter, plastic) paddle vs the big steel one in the end though.

The objective cap is probably lighter than the rubber monstrosity really.

I've always wanted to design some geared thingy for the focus ring that translate either linear (e.g. a slider) or rotational (e.g. a level) movement into the rotational movement to move the ring, it will take some time and probably not cost effective LOL.
 
I also always liked how spotters often have coarse and fine focus. I was trying to really dial into something with the thermal last night and was thinking how nice it would be to have a fingertip control for these sorts of things.

Agree, seems improbable to build anything that would work well and not be huge as a bolt on, but I can dream!