Suppressors QD vs direct thread indexing on bolt gun

[SB545]

Pretty sure the answer is obvious but I'd rather ask than be wrong. I have a QD for my suppressor but never plan to shoot the rifle without the suppressor. If I spin the QD on the muzzle and then spin the suppressor on with some 272 or rockset, does it matter how the muzzle break indexes on the gun? My though would be no since the muzzle brake blast will be contained inside the suppressor.

 

[hafejd30]

It doesn’t matter how the muzzle brake is indexed when shooting suppressed.

But don’t loctite or rocksett the can to the brake

 

[FuhQ]

If you always plan on shooting it suppressed, it shouldn't matter if it's indexed, or not.

But I would recommend, just taking the extra 5 minutes and using the supplied shims and indexing it, incase you ever shoot it without. It's a very simple process, and barely takes any extra time. Once you have your shims figured out, then unscrew the brake, put a few drops of rocksett on the muzzle brake's threads, and screw it on, torque it properly, make sure it's aligned, and then let it sit and cure for 24 hours before shooting it.

As was mentioned above, I would NOT recommend loctite or rocksett'ing the brake and can together. That's asking for issues.

 

[Bacarrat]

I have my 30CB on upside down since I mounted it. The stupid ass peel washers that TBAC supplies are almost impossible to take apart for me to shim it to where it was straight up and down. I never shoot without a suppressor so it doesn't matter. Most people will never know unless I say something. Only years afterward someone told me if you put heat to the peel washers its easier to peel off a .001 shim. Just recently I had to run a Dead Air brake in the vertical position while I waited for a 3/4 shim to show up..... They didn't come with the brake, and almost no one makes them. Finally found some old stock AAC 3/4" shims to make it work.

 

[SB545]

I thought tbac used a retaining compound or thread locker to turn their qd to a direct thread?

 

[FuhQ]

I thought tbac used a retaining compound or thread locker to turn their qd to a direct thread?

If you plan on never pulling it apart ever again, that’s what they do, but doing it yourself might void your warranty. Might want to check with them first.

 

[Shawn1492]

There is always a possibility you will want to use that suppressor on a different firearm.

 

[SB545]

After a quick call it sounds like tbac used 272 and it won't void the warranty. They recommend 20 ft lbs of torque.

 

[SB545]

There is always a possibility you will want to use that suppressor on a different firearm.

I'd just switch it to another gun as a direct thread with the same 5/8x24 threads.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I just went through most of this with my Ultra 7, wanted to switch the threads from 5/8-24 to 3/4-24. They recommended their non-timed brake, said it doesn't matter how it indexes inside the can, and I had to torch the original DT setup until I smelled smoke, signaling the threadlocker had broken down. The 5/8-24 insert came right out under hand torque, although I did use a jam nut also. I originally was a little skittish on the torch, but the thing wouldn't come loose even with the jam nut cranked into it so I got more aggressive on the heat. It was night and day once I actually got it hot enough, lesson learned. No meaningful discoloration of the finish either, g2g.

 

[Zak Smith]

Use a small kitchen butane torch, you won't hurt anything. I loctite 272 everything. LOL.

 

[Charger442]

I have my 30CB on upside down since I mounted it. The stupid ass peel washers that TBAC supplies are almost impossible to take apart for me to shim it to where it was straight up and down. I never shoot without a suppressor so it doesn't matter. Most people will never know unless I say something. Only years afterward someone told me if you put heat to the peel washers its easier to peel off a .001 shim. Just recently I had to run a Dead Air brake in the vertical position while I waited for a 3/4 shim to show up..... They didn't come with the brake, and almost no one makes them. Finally found some old stock AAC 3/4" shims to make it work.

Not to be a complete ass, but there's a ton of companies that sell shim kits. You don't need to only have ONE shim that indexes the brake properly, mostly it takes one or two to make it all work with the proper torque.

I know capital armory and Brownells sell shim kits for under $15.

 

[Zak Smith]

Sometimes I'll take several single layers off the peel washer first, and then re-add them single to the remaining peel washer once I'm close. That's sometimes easier than removing layer by layer later in the process

 

[Bacarrat]

Not to be a complete ass, but there's a ton of companies that sell shim kits. You don't need to only have ONE shim that indexes the brake properly, mostly it takes one or two to make it all work with the proper torque.

I know capital armory and Brownells sell shim kits for under $15.

CA doesn't have 3/4 shims. That's the first company I called. And yes, I know you can stack them.

3/4 shims are not that common. Very few company sell them. 5/8 shims not a problem, I have quite a few packages of then laying around.

 

[E. Bryant]

Griffin makes a 3/4" shim kit. It's about $9 at Midway.