Has anybody else run into this issue with the Rem 700 AAC-SD? The treads on my rifle are not cut the whole way to the shoulder and my can does not thread on tight. What is the solution to this? Have the muzzle rethreaded?
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Suppressors Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
- Thread starter marksman25
- Start date
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Gonna be in the same boat as you, after my Omega is approved. I plan on taking the gun and can to Tornado Tech, and seeing what the best course of action is. But, that won't be until next year.
Guy on a local board, told me he had a little bevel machined in the back end of the threads on the can. So the can would screw all the way to the shoulder. Something along those lines,,,
Gonna be in the same boat as you, after my Omega is approved. I plan on taking the gun and can to Tornado Tech, and seeing what the best course of action is. But, that won't be until next year.
Guy on a local board, told me he had a little bevel machined in the back end of the threads on the can. So the can would screw all the way to the shoulder. Something along those lines,,,
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
just have it re threaded or send it back to remington to have them re thread it.
just have it re threaded or send it back to remington to have them re thread it.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coyote223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gonna be in the same boat as you, after my Omega is approved. I plan on taking the gun and can to Tornado Tech, and seeing what the best course of action is. But, that won't be until next year.
Guy on a local board, told me he had a little bevel machined in the back end of the threads on the can. So the can would screw all the way to the shoulder. Something along those lines,,,
</div></div>
SWR Omega's are known for having that bevel to be to shallow. I had the same problem on a Surgeon and had to push the bevel back in a lathe and then it would shoulder up nice and tight on the barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coyote223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gonna be in the same boat as you, after my Omega is approved. I plan on taking the gun and can to Tornado Tech, and seeing what the best course of action is. But, that won't be until next year.
Guy on a local board, told me he had a little bevel machined in the back end of the threads on the can. So the can would screw all the way to the shoulder. Something along those lines,,,
SWR Omega's are known for having that bevel to be to shallow. I had the same problem on a Surgeon and had to push the bevel back in a lathe and then it would shoulder up nice and tight on the barrel.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads.
Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Im gonna take a shot in the dark and say AAC cans will thread on great. Cyclone, Cyclone K, 762 sdn and sdn-6 with attachment (blackout, brakeout, muzzlebrake).
Im gonna take a shot in the dark and say AAC cans will thread on great. Cyclone, Cyclone K, 762 sdn and sdn-6 with attachment (blackout, brakeout, muzzlebrake).
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Id think the same springer. Also, I recall another thread mentioning the use of a spacer/washer to correct this problem. Although I cannot remember where I read it. Hope it may help.
Id think the same springer. Also, I recall another thread mentioning the use of a spacer/washer to correct this problem. Although I cannot remember where I read it. Hope it may help.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anybody else run into this issue with the Rem 700 AAC-SD? The treads on my rifle are not cut the whole way to the shoulder and my can does not thread on tight. What is the solution to this? Have the muzzle rethreaded? </div></div>
I talked to Robert Silvers (AAC's head of research and development) about it when he first showed images of the rifle and its threads. My point was that failure to relieve the threads would create inevitable compatibility issues in the future. His point was that the threads are marginally stronger because the metal isn't removed there.
You will probably have to send the barrel to someone to cut a thread relief.
Alternately you could have someone ID grind a thread relief on the suppressor, or use a machined washer to fill the gap.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anybody else run into this issue with the Rem 700 AAC-SD? The treads on my rifle are not cut the whole way to the shoulder and my can does not thread on tight. What is the solution to this? Have the muzzle rethreaded? </div></div>
I talked to Robert Silvers (AAC's head of research and development) about it when he first showed images of the rifle and its threads. My point was that failure to relieve the threads would create inevitable compatibility issues in the future. His point was that the threads are marginally stronger because the metal isn't removed there.
You will probably have to send the barrel to someone to cut a thread relief.
Alternately you could have someone ID grind a thread relief on the suppressor, or use a machined washer to fill the gap.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
+1 I agree
You should not have to put washers or botch up you set up because of low quality workmanship. Send it in and have them make it right or if I were you I would take it to a smith I can trust to do it right.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
+1 I agree
You should not have to put washers or botch up you set up because of low quality workmanship. Send it in and have them make it right or if I were you I would take it to a smith I can trust to do it right.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anybody else run into this issue with the Rem 700 AAC-SD? The treads on my rifle are not cut the whole way to the shoulder and my can does not thread on tight. What is the solution to this? Have the muzzle rethreaded? </div></div>
I talked to Robert Silvers (AAC's head of research and development) about it when he first showed images of the rifle and its threads. My point was that failure to relieve the threads would create inevitable compatibility issues in the future. His point was that the threads are marginally stronger because the metal isn't removed there.
You will probably have to send the barrel to someone to cut a thread relief.
Alternately you could have someone ID grind a thread relief on the suppressor, or use a machined washer to fill the gap. </div></div>
Robert knows everything! Sell the Remy and buy a Savage...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anybody else run into this issue with the Rem 700 AAC-SD? The treads on my rifle are not cut the whole way to the shoulder and my can does not thread on tight. What is the solution to this? Have the muzzle rethreaded? </div></div>
I talked to Robert Silvers (AAC's head of research and development) about it when he first showed images of the rifle and its threads. My point was that failure to relieve the threads would create inevitable compatibility issues in the future. His point was that the threads are marginally stronger because the metal isn't removed there.
You will probably have to send the barrel to someone to cut a thread relief.
Alternately you could have someone ID grind a thread relief on the suppressor, or use a machined washer to fill the gap. </div></div>
Robert knows everything! Sell the Remy and buy a Savage...
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
This is exactly why I decided to send mine off to a reputable smith to have it rethreaded while I was waiting on my can approval. I can't imagine how pissed I would be if I got a brand new can, screwed it on and the first shot hit baffle. Better safe than sorry in my opinion.
My Rem 700 aac's threads were the same as yours op.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
This is exactly why I decided to send mine off to a reputable smith to have it rethreaded while I was waiting on my can approval. I can't imagine how pissed I would be if I got a brand new can, screwed it on and the first shot hit baffle. Better safe than sorry in my opinion.
My Rem 700 aac's threads were the same as yours op.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Had a problem with mine. After receiving the gun, I promptly went home and tried to screw on my new Thunderbeast 30P-1. Can got stuck halfway down the threads and I couldn't remove. Had to send the barreled action to Shane at TBAC. He had to cut the barrel and rethread. All's well now. Cans go on and off smoothly, gun shoots sub MOA with Hornady 168 AMAX Match.
Had a problem with mine. After receiving the gun, I promptly went home and tried to screw on my new Thunderbeast 30P-1. Can got stuck halfway down the threads and I couldn't remove. Had to send the barreled action to Shane at TBAC. He had to cut the barrel and rethread. All's well now. Cans go on and off smoothly, gun shoots sub MOA with Hornady 168 AMAX Match.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
Thanks for the input. And to 346ci, I have a Savage and the can fits it perfectly, go figure. I would be really pissed if I didn't have a rifle that will accept the can.
Thanks for the input. And to 346ci, I have a Savage and the can fits it perfectly, go figure. I would be really pissed if I didn't have a rifle that will accept the can.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the input. And to 346ci, I have a Savage and the can fits it perfectly, go figure. I would be really pissed if I didn't have a rifle that will accept the can. </div></div>
Yup, I'd be pissed it didn't fit both, LOL. The shame is the problem was pointed out but no effort was made to fix it. I love my PSS but I will be buying Savage from now on...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: P25</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the input. And to 346ci, I have a Savage and the can fits it perfectly, go figure. I would be really pissed if I didn't have a rifle that will accept the can. </div></div>
Yup, I'd be pissed it didn't fit both, LOL. The shame is the problem was pointed out but no effort was made to fix it. I love my PSS but I will be buying Savage from now on...
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cut2fix</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Had a problem with mine. After receiving the gun, I promptly went home and tried to screw on my new Thunderbeast 30P-1. Can got stuck halfway down the threads and I couldn't remove. Had to send the barreled action to Shane at TBAC. He had to cut the barrel and rethread. All's well now. Cans go on and off smoothly, gun shoots sub MOA with Hornady 168 AMAX Match. </div></div>
When I went to pick up my TBAC 30P-1 from the dealer last year, there was a customer in the shop that was picking up his Rem 700 AAC-SD.
The customer did not own a suppressor yet and the dealer asked if he would like to see what it would look like with one installed.
He tried to put my 30P-1 on it a couple times and could not get it to any further than a couple of turns.
On my GAP threaded FN A5-M and Noveske 300 BLK barrel, the threads are a perfect match.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cut2fix</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Had a problem with mine. After receiving the gun, I promptly went home and tried to screw on my new Thunderbeast 30P-1. Can got stuck halfway down the threads and I couldn't remove. Had to send the barreled action to Shane at TBAC. He had to cut the barrel and rethread. All's well now. Cans go on and off smoothly, gun shoots sub MOA with Hornady 168 AMAX Match. </div></div>
When I went to pick up my TBAC 30P-1 from the dealer last year, there was a customer in the shop that was picking up his Rem 700 AAC-SD.
The customer did not own a suppressor yet and the dealer asked if he would like to see what it would look like with one installed.
He tried to put my 30P-1 on it a couple times and could not get it to any further than a couple of turns.
On my GAP threaded FN A5-M and Noveske 300 BLK barrel, the threads are a perfect match.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
YIKES!
I just checked my new (after waiting 7 months for the Form 4) Sandstorm on my AAC Remington 700. It screws on all the way and bottoms out on the shoulder of the barrel.
I see that the threads on the barrel stop about .080"-.100" from the base (eyeballing it), but the Sandstorm has a relief cut into the threads from the factory that is about the same depth.
WHEW!
Unless these barrel threads are known to be off, I think it would be easier to cut a relief in the Sandstorm than to re-thread the barrel. I'm going to order a Range Rod from Pacific Tool and Gauge or Grizzly to stick snugly into the barrel and through the can to be sure there is room for a round to sneak by.
YIKES!
I just checked my new (after waiting 7 months for the Form 4) Sandstorm on my AAC Remington 700. It screws on all the way and bottoms out on the shoulder of the barrel.
I see that the threads on the barrel stop about .080"-.100" from the base (eyeballing it), but the Sandstorm has a relief cut into the threads from the factory that is about the same depth.
WHEW!
Unless these barrel threads are known to be off, I think it would be easier to cut a relief in the Sandstorm than to re-thread the barrel. I'm going to order a Range Rod from Pacific Tool and Gauge or Grizzly to stick snugly into the barrel and through the can to be sure there is room for a round to sneak by.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
this. id call Remington to see what their turn around would be and if they would charge you for shipping.
locally getting a barrel threaded is $100 so im not sure what route i would take.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Personally I would have the cans counterbore pushed back slightly. But I would also have the barrel threads checked for concentricity to the bore also. With the quality remington is now famous for allowing out the door, I would never trust an investment like a suppressor hanging on factory muzzle threads. </div></div>
this. id call Remington to see what their turn around would be and if they would charge you for shipping.
locally getting a barrel threaded is $100 so im not sure what route i would take.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
I just bought a 700 aac-sd off of the classifieds here. It came with a RAD rapid brake and no thread protector. I sold the brake since I'm waiting on my form 4 to clear and had a machinist make me a thread protector.
The thread protector stopped with about a 3/16" gap. He checked the barrel and it does not have a clearance cut. He cut a relief into the inside diameter of the thread protector and it snugged right up.
I'm waiting on a YHM 7.62SS with QD flash hider. He said just bring my flash hider in and he'd relief cut the threads on that as well.
Kind of sucks that some of these barrels were not theaded with a relief cut when they left the factory.
I just bought a 700 aac-sd off of the classifieds here. It came with a RAD rapid brake and no thread protector. I sold the brake since I'm waiting on my form 4 to clear and had a machinist make me a thread protector.
The thread protector stopped with about a 3/16" gap. He checked the barrel and it does not have a clearance cut. He cut a relief into the inside diameter of the thread protector and it snugged right up.
I'm waiting on a YHM 7.62SS with QD flash hider. He said just bring my flash hider in and he'd relief cut the threads on that as well.
Kind of sucks that some of these barrels were not theaded with a relief cut when they left the factory.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
One would think that threads cut 5/8x24 would all be the same. Unfortunately, it is not the case. It is not the case across the board the TPI and different manufacturers/machinists.
The manufacturers who are part of the American Silencer Association are trying to generate specs that will run the gammet for all manufacturers. We need standardization. This makes things simple.
One would think that threads cut 5/8x24 would all be the same. Unfortunately, it is not the case. It is not the case across the board the TPI and different manufacturers/machinists.
The manufacturers who are part of the American Silencer Association are trying to generate specs that will run the gammet for all manufacturers. We need standardization. This makes things simple.
Re: Question about Rem 700 AAC-SD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coryj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just bought a 700 aac-sd off of the classifieds here. It came with a RAD rapid brake and no thread protector. I sold the brake since I'm waiting on my form 4 to clear and had a machinist make me a thread protector.
The thread protector stopped with about a 3/16" gap. He checked the barrel and it does not have a clearance cut. He cut a relief into the inside diameter of the thread protector and it snugged right up.
I'm waiting on a YHM 7.62SS with QD flash hider. He said just bring my flash hider in and he'd relief cut the threads on that as well.
Kind of sucks that some of these barrels were not theaded with a relief cut when they left the factory. </div></div>
I ended up sending my Savage and my buddies 700 aac off to be threaded/cut and checked. The machinest did mention even though the threads on the 700 we ok, once the bbl was in the lathe, there was enough runout to be seen with the naked eye. The Savage was true. The 700 had that retarded shoulder cut off while there. Our cans won't be here for a while but he know feels confindent about not having a baffle strike. That was his last Remington also.....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coryj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just bought a 700 aac-sd off of the classifieds here. It came with a RAD rapid brake and no thread protector. I sold the brake since I'm waiting on my form 4 to clear and had a machinist make me a thread protector.
The thread protector stopped with about a 3/16" gap. He checked the barrel and it does not have a clearance cut. He cut a relief into the inside diameter of the thread protector and it snugged right up.
I'm waiting on a YHM 7.62SS with QD flash hider. He said just bring my flash hider in and he'd relief cut the threads on that as well.
Kind of sucks that some of these barrels were not theaded with a relief cut when they left the factory. </div></div>
I ended up sending my Savage and my buddies 700 aac off to be threaded/cut and checked. The machinest did mention even though the threads on the 700 we ok, once the bbl was in the lathe, there was enough runout to be seen with the naked eye. The Savage was true. The 700 had that retarded shoulder cut off while there. Our cans won't be here for a while but he know feels confindent about not having a baffle strike. That was his last Remington also.....
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