So I am awaiting a suppressor to come out of ATF jail and I need to get my 300wm threaded for the suppressor. My dumb question goes like this, can I just hand my rifle to the smith and ask him to thread the barrel for me? Do I need to specify how long to thread it? How deep? I imagine i'll need to specify what thread I want but other then that, what do I need to specify? Thanks for the help.
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Gunsmithing Questions for smith
- Thread starter mercracing
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Depends on the suppressor. The majority of them you can just say 5/8-24 x 0.600" long class 3A. But its best to get the thread specs from the can mfg and give them to the smith to be safe. Be sure your smith is competent in threading for a suppressor. Indicating off the OD or holding in a 3jaw is unacceptable for suppressor threads. Also, gauging suppressor threads with a brake thats laying around is no bueno, make sure he gauges them with a real ring gauge.
So I need to look into what kind of chuck he is using and make sure he has a ring gauge. Anything else?
Do your self a huge favor and spend a few pennies by shipping it to someone who does this every day like Mark Gordon at Short Action Customs in Ohio and it guaranteed to be correct. There are many others on this site that can do the same, only he's my favorite, and I don't feel like doing a lot of typing. He will only need the barreled action if you feel like taking it out of the stock which will make for a smaller package to ship. Best of luck.
STR knows a thing or two about building fine rifles, if you want a few hours of entertainment check out his YouTube channel
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...86-lets-see-those-suarez-tactical-rifles.html
https://m.youtube.com/user/suar08161991
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For me STR stood for my company name Suarez Tactical Rifles when I thought I wanted to build Precison Rifles for a living. Took a few years to figure out there were better ways to earn my food, so now I'm just a hobbiest who knows a bunch of good guys that do really good work. If I didn't do my own work, then Mark would be my guy. Again, that's not to take anything away from any of the many great builders on this sight. I just personally like the kid.
By the way, this is just a suggestion, but wait until you have the can in hand to send it to an SOT dealer/gunsmith for threading. Some like to have the muzzle devise in hand when doing the work to ensure the best thread fit possible. Some don't.
Legally yes. There's a standing letter put out by ATF that allows gunsmiths to accept NFA items for repairs. Repairs only. That means it doesn't leave their shop for any reason. I had a copy, but that went into the trash when I closed down, and I didn't look it up. An FBI agent did it for me because he wanted me to work on his NFA item, and I told him I wasn't allowed. He showed me the letter, and I called my reginal ATF office to confirm it. One idiot said it was BS, and his supervisor looked it up, and she said it was valid.
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Although that sounds great, getting your barrel fitted to your can. There is no substitute for a 3A ring gauge, and Mark will tell you exactly that. Say they fit your threads to your can, and it happens to be on the loose side. Then down the road you get another can, low and behold your can will not thread on. That is why the can mfg gives you thread specs to follow, and doesnt say "cut them till the cans threads on."
There can be a little more to this sometimes. The OP sent me a note regarding having this done. A portion of my response is listed below. It would be great if there was a good way for me to blast this out to the world as its a challenge we face on a daily basis. The use of suppressors has exploded on this industry. A great thing in my book as it solves a number of challenges as a firearms owner/user.
There are some fitting challenges that surface and we've solved them in this manner:
Next,
Caliber and barrel contour. A lot of guys want us to thread muzzles on skinny barrel contours. It can be done, however there's some stuff that really needs to be checked out. If the barrel contour is real small at the muzzle (example: .700") and it's a 6.5mm or larger in caliber then it kinda demands that we use a 5/8-24 pitch for the threads (which is pretty typical among all the direct mount can manufacturers). This means there's only .075" difference in diameter from the threads to the barrel's outside contour diameter. You divide this in half and it's only .0375" of shoulder. That's not much more than the thickness of a match book. There's nothing for the backside of the can to purchase against when you snug it down. If you try to "pinch" it against this narrow shoulder then you run the risk of galling a thread on the barrel and/or the suppressor.
That makes a mess.
The only way around it that I've found is to make a sort of "jam nut washer" that threads onto the muzzle behind the suppressor. It's purpose is to ensure the thing has a flat surface to load against when you tighten stuff up. It's not the most conventional looking solution, but it does work and prevent the can/barrel from being damaged.
Those cost an extra $50.00
Happy to help.
C.
So there you have it and for those who read this and want to consider LRI for this kind of job, enter into it with this expectation if your running a smaller sporter contour type barrel on your rig. Understand also that this is a rigid policy for us with these spaghetti barrels. What other's do doesn't persuade me. Your hard earned $50 ensures I don't see the thing again with a can friction welded to the muzzle. Neither of us want that.
C.
There are some fitting challenges that surface and we've solved them in this manner:
Next,
Caliber and barrel contour. A lot of guys want us to thread muzzles on skinny barrel contours. It can be done, however there's some stuff that really needs to be checked out. If the barrel contour is real small at the muzzle (example: .700") and it's a 6.5mm or larger in caliber then it kinda demands that we use a 5/8-24 pitch for the threads (which is pretty typical among all the direct mount can manufacturers). This means there's only .075" difference in diameter from the threads to the barrel's outside contour diameter. You divide this in half and it's only .0375" of shoulder. That's not much more than the thickness of a match book. There's nothing for the backside of the can to purchase against when you snug it down. If you try to "pinch" it against this narrow shoulder then you run the risk of galling a thread on the barrel and/or the suppressor.
That makes a mess.
The only way around it that I've found is to make a sort of "jam nut washer" that threads onto the muzzle behind the suppressor. It's purpose is to ensure the thing has a flat surface to load against when you tighten stuff up. It's not the most conventional looking solution, but it does work and prevent the can/barrel from being damaged.
Those cost an extra $50.00
Happy to help.
C.
So there you have it and for those who read this and want to consider LRI for this kind of job, enter into it with this expectation if your running a smaller sporter contour type barrel on your rig. Understand also that this is a rigid policy for us with these spaghetti barrels. What other's do doesn't persuade me. Your hard earned $50 ensures I don't see the thing again with a can friction welded to the muzzle. Neither of us want that.
C.
Jona is very correct, and since I know Mark is one to do it this way, I recommended him. This guy above is another one of my list of recommended smiths for any type of precision rifle work. Notice I said some smiths want the muzzle devise when they thread the barrel to check that it fits before it gets all the way back to the customer, and the customer now says its his fault the threads don't work with his muzzle devise. If when he's done, the devise doesn't fit, it's time to call the customer and advise him of the discrepancy. At which time the smith might want to offer a solution or advise as to what the customer can or should do. Make sence?
