My HMR Wilderness is on the way. I will find out soon what I get into with this rifle.
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Questions on Bergara HMR B14 bolt
- Thread starter GalilAce
- Start date
They come like that NEW the threads do not wear flat spots on the side of the shroud.
The shroud on the left is the new steel shroud the one on the right is my old non steel one with over
3K rounds on it. Both have flat threads.
I used to have a Bergara HMR Pro in 6 CM and really liked it. You should like yours as well - for a first upgrade, look at swapping the trigger. Moving up to something like a TriggerTech Diamond will make a big difference.
One thing I noticed about your pics is the mount you used for the scope. Why are you using a cantilever style? It's forcing your scope up pretty high and there is really no need for it.
The main reason is I can skip the scope ring alignment and lapping process. All my AR and AK used the similar style scope mount. They worked pretty well.
Modern high-quality rings also avoid this issue if paired with a quality base.
Not trying to knock your choice, just wanted to let you know that most of us don’t align or lap rings and still get great results.
If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots
Thanks. I got most of ammos I need. Still waiting for the Norma to come in. Hopefully one of the cheaper ammo can group well.If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots
If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots
Also I am waiting for the 42" cleaning rod and bore guide to come in before heading to the range. I will follow Bergara's breakin process. All other parts have arrived and were installed.
If I can get 2 MOA out of the Aguila, that will be a good alternative for practice.
Hi,If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots
Today is the 2nd trip to the range. 65 shots fired total. I zeroed the rifle at 100 yards and did 10 5 shots group. The first 5 groups are all with Hornady ELD Match. The result is just OK for now. Hopefully it will get better after the barrel is seasoned.
5 groups of 5 shots: Hornady. 2 mins break between each group.
Best: 1 moa.
Worst: 2 moa
Avg: about 1.25 moa
5 groups of 5 different ammos:
Not sure why all the shots are 1.5" high. The rifle was zeroed fine. The rifle was zeroed at 50 yards on the first trip. Today It took one shot to zero at 100 yards (center target). Then the scope was adjusted 10 cm left, right, up and down while aiming at the same spot. So the scope seems to work fine. It is puzzling why all groups are high when the real shooting started.
For someone with zero prior bolt action experience you sure seem to think to know what matters and what doesnt.
I kind of gave up on the OP when he defended putting a cantilevered mount on the pic rail.
Would you please explain why a cantilever mount is not good for a bolt action? Bergara rifle has the adjustable comb.
Your reasons for using one are wrong.
Again, you don't know what you don't know but come to the forum with the most precision bolt action rifle knowledge in the world to argue why you're doing what you're doing.
You just helped make @308pirate 's point. An adjustable comb (cheek riser) is not a reason to raise your scope higher.
Two interrelated reasons why a cantilevered mount is inappropriate for the vast majority of modern bolt-action rifles:
1) The engineering of it all.
Cantilevered mounts were made for when you don't have the ability to have a mono-piece rail and need to mount solely at the rear of the action. The engineering issue with this is that you are putting the entire recoil force against one small area of the pic rail. While not an issue on an AR firing 223 and a smaller scope, with larger calibers (more recoil) the forces acting against a ~2lb optic take their toll on all the mounting hardware. You might get away with this, or you might not, depending on a variety of factors.
2) Scope height
Your scope is very high - and the mount is the reason. Any cantilever structure has to be more beefy due to the nature of their designs. In the case of mounts, that beefiness comes at the cost of scope height. Scope height in itself isn't necessarily bad, but the higher you go and the longer ranges you shoot at, the more opportunity there is for error due to your rifle/scope not being level.
Personally, I try to get the bottom of the scope bell to be about 3/8" off the barrel, give or take, depending on the mount. The only one of my rifles that's higher is my 375, and that's only because at extreme elevations I need to be able to see past the end of the barrel.
I have a Bergara HMR wilderness, 24" barrel in 6.5 creedmoor. I've shot over 2000 ( possibly way more, low estimate) and I've never had a problem with the bolt. I reload and use on the upper end so my loads are sometimes hot (that sounds bad) and even one time I had a piece of brass give way and crack down the middle which was pretty intense yet zero damage to the gun. If you like the look of the gun then get it because you will not be upset with it's performance.
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