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I talked with sources intimately involved with that versions of solvent trap (they will remain nameless for legal reasons) and they stated do not use that on a 338LM or it will blow up in your face. Do I feel it would hold up; yes but that means absolutely nothing.Do any of you that have the 30 cal suppressors feel that they would hold up to a .338?
I should have asked this before, but like I said in a previous post this is my first pistol suppressor using the e-file system, do they send you a paper copy with your stamp in the mail, or do they simply email it for you to print?
No engraving I assume?I ordered a kit Sunday evening. It shipped Monday, received Wednesday. Filed my Form 1, received my cover sheet within 20 minutes
Seems to be a mixed bag on people's experience drilling the Titanium cups out. Several have said they had no issue. I know it looks me several sessions over several days including having to replace a broken drill bit because I had so much trouble drilling them out. Others have also reported difficulty. I'm not the handiest of folks but I can't see me having not done something right, the process seems pretty straightforward.Any tips drilling the ti cups. used ta[ oil and it took forever.
thanks
buck
Are most people using a hand drill or are you using a drill press? I don’t have a press at home but I have access to one elsewhere.Seems to be a mixed bag on people's experience drilling the Titanium cups out. Several have said they had no issue. I know it looks me several sessions over several days including having to replace a broken drill bit because I had so much trouble drilling them out. Others have also reported difficulty. I'm not the handiest of folks but I can't see me having not done something right, the process seems pretty straightforward.
Not knocking anyone's handyman abilities, but I would say the most likely culprit for any problems is not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing. The bit needs to be perfectly straight up and down. That's why I would say use a drill press if possible.Buddy borrowed my 22lr QB drill jig last weekend to drill his QB Ti cups. Followed what I told him and he said it was super easy no issues and my bit came back in perfect order so I dont know.
Hand drill, speed setting 1, not 2. Tap Magic on bit and in drill fixture hole. Peck with trigger squeezed 1/3-1/2 way. Even pressure but not muscling it. Zero issues.
I can only suspect the guys having lots of trouble and breaking bits are either going to fast and/or too much pressure and not pecking.. you heat up Ti and good luck you will have a nightmare drilling it out and WILL break bits. You heat it up you harden it...
Not knocking anyone's handyman abilities, but I would say the most likely culprit for any problems is not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing. The bit needs to be perfectly straight up and down. That's why I would say use a drill press if possible.
Sure, I know what a drill bushing is. And I think it would be easy to unintentionally put a side load on the drill. Just putting an idea out there why some people struggle with this.You do understand how the drill jig works right? The drill bit can only be 100% straight once inserted into the alignment bushing on the lid of the jig...that's the whole point of the jig... once you insert the bit into the alignment bushing the only place it's going is straight down.
Sure, I know what a drill bushing is. And I think it would be easy to unintentionally put a side load on the drill. Just putting an idea out there why some people struggle with this.
I did my QB kit on a lathe, but I've used drill bushings. Did a four year apprenticeship as a machinist. I'm talking about putting sideways pressure on the drill motor, not the bit.If you know what a alignment bushing is...then you would know the drill bit isnt moving in any direction no matter what load you put on it. That's the whole point of the alignment bushing. Do you have a QB jig?
I did my QB kit on a lathe, but I've used drill bushings. Did a four year apprenticeship as a machinist. I'm talking about putting sideways pressure on the drill motor, not the bit.
Sorry for my lack of clarity. I meant that the pressure needs to be applied directly through the bit. Putting pressure on the handle portion of the drill motor is applying a side load. Anyway, enough, I'll stop.Well your first post said the culprit was not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing and the drill bit needs to be straight up and down. That's what the jig ensures via its alignment bushing which is a perfect fit to the included bit....nothing to do with side pressure on the motor....
Just so we arent confusing people here.
Went ahead and started the Form 1 about 2 weeks ago. Ordered the .556/.30 last Friday morning. No tracking yet.
Ordered my .22 can on the 20th and no tracking as well. Willing to give them a month before I call it quits.
Well your first post said the culprit was not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing and the drill bit needs to be straight up and down. That's what the jig ensures via its alignment bushing which is a perfect fit to the included bit....nothing to do with side pressure on the motor....
Just so we arent confusing people here.
Sorry for my lack of clarity. I meant that the pressure needs to be applied directly through the bit. Putting pressure on the handle portion of the drill motor is applying a side load. Anyway, enough, I'll stop.
Thanks BTW for your original post. It's why I'm now a happy owner.
I ordered on the 18th a titanium 22 kit with engraving. Still no tracking (3 weeks).Ordered the .22 LR kit with alum baffles, drill fixture and engraving on Jan 20th. Hopefully will arrive before the tax stamp.
Got a Ruger Mark IV waiting for it.
I ordered on the 18th a titanium 22 kit with engraving. Still no tracking (3 weeks).
I talked to Preston on Monday the 3rd to ask for an update. I was told it would ship that day or soon after. It just "needed to be engraved". He said they were waiting on nitride finished parts.
Maybe next week I'll get confirmation....Next weekend will be 4 weeks.
It's a gold rush and it seems every solvent trap company takes on too much work (Diversified, Muted, etc)
Yeah still nothing here, ordered alum .22 kit with engraving on the 20th.
They say 1-2 weeks on the website but we are going on 3+ weeks now. I guess as long as I get it before the tax stamp is approved ill be fine but im going to be very irate if I have a tax stamp in hand and no suppressor.
No excuse to be slower than the ATF. The website really ought to mention 3-4 weeks (for engraving, at least).
The 5.56/30 cups are done too. But I havent tested them yet. Wont be posting them up till I have tested them to ensure they sound as good or better than the factory cups. I cant test them till I have the new, lightened entrance and exit caps for the QB tube. Hoping to have the new entrance and exit caps in the next week to 10 days. As soon as I drop them in and test them and all is good they will be added to their site to buy as well at the prices I posted previously.
Also interested if a SS and Ti mixed kits would available. I'f imagine most everyone would like at least one SS blast baffle. Did I hear something about Ti endcaps as well? At this point I might as well find a Ti tube to go along with all of these delicious components.Whats the website that they are going to be available on? Also you said you get a discount if you buy the whole stack, but will you be able to do SS and Ti stack options?
also, I had an issue where QB didn't engrave my .45 tube. It took 4-5 emails but they finally sent it out with the engraving. They also said they are ramping up production and getting more help so to be patient with them. They also said they are working on a 3 lug adapter for the .45 can.
I dont see a problem with a complete set consisting of 1 SS and the rest Ti cups to qualify for the complete set pricing. You can mix and match all you want at the per cup price. Complete set pricing will be either a full set of Ti, or a full set of SS or 1 SS and the rest Ti.
Exit cap with a 5/8 hex on the front is being made as we speak. You will be able to throw a crescent wrench or socket on it to install and remove. It will be about a 1/3 of the weight of the current QB exit cap...
Have a really cool new entrance cap setup coming. All entrance caps/adapters WILL BE SS ONLY. Dont want any galling issues screwing off and on Ti onto SS barrels. BUT, we have removed a TON of weight from the QB entrance cap and made it fully modular. Your looking at the entrance cap with the 5/8-24 adapter weighing roughly 1/3 of the current QB threaded entrance cap.... Final numbers to follow once a final part is ready.
You will be able to buy the new lightened SS entrance cap with the QD threads in the middle. You will then be able to buy 1/2-28, 5/8-24, 3/4-24 adapters that thread into the center of the cap. They will also have a self timing QD muzzle break you can buy that will also be able to thread right into the center of the new entrance cap. Stay tuned. prototypes are rolling off the machine new and being tested. Will have pictures and pricing soon.
This is legit, anything for a tri lug for the 45 can?