Re: Rear screw holes stripped on 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shootone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I took my 10/22 to the range the other day and it was shooting very poorly and not holding zero.
i thought it was a fauly scope and wanted to change to a different scope so i went to change it out last night, i found my issue. both of my rear base mounting holes are stipped,
looking for some recomendations for a good timely turnaround to get these opened up.
any smiths that yall would recommend? </div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nesikabay</div><div class="ubbcode-body">its not to hard to do. If i was you i would clean them up and retap to a larger size. You can buy the tools to do it and its not had to do </div></div>
Only potential problem I see is - unless <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">shootone</span></span> is more careful not to overtorque the new threads he could easily strip-out new threads as well.
<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">shootone</span></span>, try to remember that <span style="font-style: italic">(unless the receiver is a
<span style="font-weight: bold">MOA 17-4 SS Receiver</span> or SS or 4140 CM
<span style="font-weight: bold">L.H. Precision, LLC</span></span>) receiver:
(1) The receiver is aluminum, and aluminum strips easily
(2) The scope base only needs about 15 inch pounds of torque
(3) The scope is going on a rifle, not the Space Shuttle
Also, if the holes haven't been "bottom tapped" (threaded all the way through) you should do this, or have it done so the screws have more metal to bite into (more support). Just be sure that the screws don't protrude into the receiver's interior and bind the bolt.
Keith
