Recommend a decaping die

Alabama556

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Minuteman
  • May 15, 2008
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    Birmingham, AL
    After loading for a long time without one I finally need to start using a decapping die. This will eliminate me resizing before and after annealing.

    Can you recommend one? It will be used on 243, 308, 25-06, 7-65r, 30-06, 30-338, 300 wby and 300 whisper.

    Thanks for your help.
     
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    Reactions: Sig Marine
    I started with a Lee Universal decamping die and while it worked fine, the decamping pin wasn’t small enough for the flash holes in my Lapua small primer brass. I turned the pin smaller but decided to purchase the Redding set when it was on sale at Brownell’s because it had two dies, one for small cases and one for the big mammer-jammers, cases 3” in length.
     
    I've got 2 different dies. I purchased a Lee a few years ago. I'm not really a Lee fan but it works fine. Later on I received a die from Sinclair as a gift. It is much more nicely machined than the Lee and cost 3 times more! The Lee does everything I need it to do. You can often catch the Lee on sale for around $10. Buy some extra pins when you buy the die!
     
    Mighty Armoury Magnum

    Never thought a decapping die would be a thing of beauty. Also love the ability to swap from small to large so easily. This is my one and only decapping die and I use it for all my different calibers. Had the Lee but was such a pita not having a small flash hole pin. Also changing pins was neither quick nor easy...oh and it rusted if I even looked at it.

    https://www.mightyarmory.com/collec...m-100-universal-decapping-die-for-all-presses

    Had looked at the Sinclair, but the idea of replacing pins seemed like more hassle than just buying an extra pin for each size on the MA. Ive decapped approx. 3000rnds this year and have had zero issues and not even a thought of needing to replace a pin. From the looks of it, I will likely have this die until I die.
     
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    I got a Dillon decapper. Cheap, simple, it works. 5.56 to .308, no problems. Replacement pins are cheap and available. I wouldn't spend much on one and they're all pretty much the same I think.

    There isn't much to one and you could make one with a seater body larger than or same size as your biggest caliber and a sizing stem with the expansion ring ground off that's smaller than or same size as your smallest caliber that'll fit the seater body. That's what I did to make a .50 BMG decapper when nobody made one (that I could find).
     
    A Lee Universal die works (though will need to be turned down for small Lapua flash holes). I used one for years.

    Now I use one of those Franford Arsenal decapping guns (at a whopping $40). I sit my happy ass on the couch, crack open a beer, flip on the tube and then proceed to deprime every frigging piece of brass fired at the range that day. So easy, even a caveman can do it. No sense in messing with dies, when this little dealio does it better, and more comfortably. As they say, "If it's stupid, but it works...it ain't stupid."

    JMTCW...
     
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    Reactions: JimLee
    A Lee Universal die works (though will need to be turned down for small Lapua flash holes). I used one for years.

    Now I use one of those Franford Arsenal decapping guns (at a whopping $40). I sit my happy ass on the couch, crack open a beer, flip on the tube and then proceed to deprime every frigging piece of brass fired at the range that day. So easy, even a caveman can do it. No sense in messing with dies, when this little dealio does it better, and more comfortably. As they say, "If it's stupid, but it works...it ain't stupid."

    JMTCW...
    I've got one of those and I like it. Couch, beer, T.V, check. I need to plastidip the handles though, that textured metal gets at me after a couple hundred military crimped primers.
     
    I've got one of those and I like it. Couch, beer, T.V, check. I need to plastidip the handles though, that textured metal gets at me after a couple hundred military crimped primers.
    Nitrile dipped cotton gloves, 4 bucks for a three pack on the hardware store end caps.
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    Did
    Lapua go with the smaller flash hole for a performance gain?
    Or more probably a tooling convenience of some kind?

    So 1/16th 0.0625 inch as aposed to 1.5 mm .
    Probably tooling driven and nothing else.

    Have read on sh of people uniforming the flash holes at 0.0625 .
    I do that and remove burs inside because that is the tool I have.

    Why does everyone basterdise tools instead of uniform the brass?

    There is not any performance loss, that can be measured is there?