Gunsmithing Recommendations for best cleaning chemicals - bonus if non-toxic

[TacosGigante]

I realized I have a mish-mash of cleaning supplies I have acquired over the years. No rhyme or reason except my dad used break-free so I have some. I would like to streamline my collection to the minimum number of effective agents. Ideally, they would be non-toxic because I have kids and while I doubt they would drink the stuff better safe than sorry. Also non-toxic chemicals are much easier to dispose of where I live. Still, effectiveness comes first. This will be used primarily to clean pistols and semi-autos, but some precision bolt action cleaning will be done. In terms of use cases here is what I need:

1. Something to clean guns, duh. Carbon and copper removal are the big ones. I don't shoot many non-jacketed bullets so there shouldn't be that much lead, but that doesn't mean there won't be some here and there.

2. Something to lube guns. Should be self explanatory. What is a good, resilient lube that won't burn off too quickly? I can reapply regularly, so it doesn't need to last forever, but still.

3. Something to protect guns from rust. I keep my guns in a safe with a goldenrod, but unfortunately the room the safe is in isn't climate controlled, so some extra anti-rust protection wouldn't go amiss.

4. Something to clean suppressors. I have a couple of cans and want to clean them periodically. I know Huxwrx (whose cans I own) recommends putting a cleaning solution into a tennis ball container and soaking the can for a bit. I'm cool with that, but what should I use?
4a. Can I use the same liquid more than once, or do I need to dispose of it after each cleaning? If the latter the liquid being non-toxic would be an even bigger plus.

5. What use case am I missing?

6. Does an ultra-sonic make sense? I am inclined to doubt it since I don't shoot that many guns that much. But who am I to turn down an expensive new toy?

Thanks all

 

[MediumSpeed]

Hum, over time I've moved from CLP, to M-pro 7, to shooters choice, to bore tech. So far the bore tech stuff works prety well - I also use their suppressor cleaning system for my SiCo and OSS (Huxwrx) cans as well - it seems to work okay (clean around 6-700 round point) for lube, it depends on what is getting lubed (insert sex joke) for AKs and buffer tube springs I use a heavier grease (miltech) 1911 barrel lugs and similar get a lighter grease (moble one) other parts get synthetic moter oil (also moble one)

 

[Quick1]

Yes, ultrasonic cleaners make a LOT of sense, I have purchased two of them and they have changed my gun cleaning life. I am a big fan of Bore Tech cleaning products, but the ultrasonic cleaners make the cleaning routine much easier and faster. I use the L&R Safety Ultrasonic Weapon Cleaning Solution in one and L&R Safety Ultrasonic Weapon Lubricating Solution in the other to display any left over water and coat the whole firearm in a dry lube. For caked on carbon you still need to do some scrubbing and I still need to clean rifle barrels and actions the old fashion way, but everything I can get in the ultrasonic cleaners goes in.

 

[Nik H]

I use KG Industries products. They work better than everything I have used previously.

KG1 - Carbon remover
KG4 - Gun Oil
KG12 - Copper remover if you feel so inclined

I also use a specific lubricant for the bolt that keeps things working smoothly despite the weather. I never use anything with a CLP label. Cleaners clean and lubricants lubricate as far as I am concerned. YMMV.

I don't have rust issues and I live in coastal New England. I use a goldenrod like you and it seems to be working.

 

[Mk16.5]

Boretech

 

[Baron85]

I have had good luck with boretech solvents and iosso bore paste. I haven’t tried any of the other newer cleaners like kg and Montana extreme.

I came from hoppes and other old school stuff my dad used to boretech which works so much better and doesn’t stink.

 

[mgoodrich]

I am using brake cleaner now on my AR to get the carbon out, as well as my pistol barrels. Dissolves it (carbon) faster than anything else I have tried. Once carbon is out use Butch'es bore shine to clean the barrels themselves.

Still use sweets to get the copper out.

Have switched to FMO 350AW spray to lubricate AR, pistol, bolt gun. It is a multi-purpose food machinery oil. Takes heat well and sticks were sprayed. That is probably the only thing that is non toxic. Still use grease on bolt lugs, although I have a small can of LUBRICATE that I haven't tried yet.

I use CLR for the suppressor

 

[BillyGoatMachine]

I use LPS PreSolve Orange Degreaser for an overall cleaning and degreaser that is citrus based and non toxic.

 

[kthomas]

I use KG Industries products. They work better than everything I have used previously.

KG1 - Carbon remover
KG4 - Gun Oil
KG12 - Copper remover if you feel so inclined

I also use a specific lubricant for the bolt that keeps things working smoothly despite the weather. I never use anything with a CLP label. Cleaners clean and lubricants lubricate as far as I am concerned. YMMV.

I don't have rust issues and I live in coastal New England. I use a goldenrod like you and it seems to be working.

I would love to try this stuff, but damn, they are proud of it.

 

[kthomas]

I typically use Mpro-7 for cleaning, and their oil for AR15's. I use grease for bolt guns - right now I believe I'm using Milcomm TW25 grease.

It does the job, I don't have any real issues to speak of.

 

[Nik H]

I would love to try this stuff, but damn, they are proud of it.

I never heard of it until I bought my AI. They recommend it so I tried it and it WORKS!

 

[carbonbased]

1. Something to clean guns, duh. Carbon and copper removal are the big ones. I don't shoot many non-jacketed bullets so there shouldn't be that much lead, but that doesn't mean there won't be some here and there.

2. Something to lube guns. Should be self explanatory. What is a good, resilient lube that won't burn off too quickly? I can reapply regularly, so it doesn't need to last forever, but still.

3. Something to protect guns from rust. I keep my guns in a safe with a goldenrod, but unfortunately the room the safe is in isn't climate controlled, so some extra anti-rust protection wouldn't go amiss.

4. Something to clean suppressors. I have a couple of cans and want to clean them periodically. I know Huxwrx (whose cans I own) recommends putting a cleaning solution into a tennis ball container and soaking the can for a bit. I'm cool with that, but what should I use?
4a. Can I use the same liquid more than once, or do I need to dispose of it after each cleaning? If the latter the liquid being non-toxic would be an even bigger plus.

5. What use case am I missing?

6. Does an ultra-sonic make sense? I am inclined to doubt it since I don't shoot that many guns that much. But who am I to turn down an expensive new toy?

BORE CLEANING
I finally gave up researching this because most of all gun cleaning lubes and solvents are re-packaged industrial lubes/cleaners. You can dig and dig and dig, but unless you’re a chemist or mechanical engineer you’re just not gonna figure it out.

So I do what @Frank Green, the owner of Bartlien barrels suggests (also attached at bottom).

Carbon ring removal

Youre not going to get a real answer to that question as there isnt really one because who really knows. Its just going to be a yes all of the above answer. Bore snakes dont do anything. Clean the carbon out and the copper if need be. Just clean it every few hundred instead of every many...

www.snipershide.com

Also search the Hide for his tips on cleaning the carbon ring and CLR bore warnings.

Here’s one of his CLR warnings:

Carbon ring removal

Youre not going to get a real answer to that question as there isnt really one because who really knows. Its just going to be a yes all of the above answer. Bore snakes dont do anything. Clean the carbon out and the copper if need be. Just clean it every few hundred instead of every many...

www.snipershide.com

LUBE
Another black hole of repackaged industrials. The slipperiest grease I’ve found is Neco Moly-Slide, which is slipperier than Aeroshell 64 between my fingers. Which may not mean anything.

That TW-25b Mil-Comm stuff is good too, and is also lighter weight.

I’ve got a fucking shelf of other what I’ve deemed “2nd-tier” grease that I’ve tried lol that I’m not sure works better or not than my other “2nd-tier” grease. I’m sure most of you are in the same boat.

Also, for oil, Mobile 1 in whatever weight for your temps. The stuff works in an environment that makes firearms use look laughable. Below is an oil viscosity chart, unfortunately in centigrade, that I found somewhere. I think I use 5W/40 which is good from -25°F to 105°F. Or do I use 0W/20 (-40° to 70°F)?

Fuck I have grease on the brain.

Edit: don’t use cheap oil you fags. Here’s a link that you can follow for pour tests and more of my posts on this matter.

Freezing Lube Test

Several people mentioned that Flannel Daddy should have tested lubes in the other thread. This guy tests various lubes and while not on a weapon it at least gives an indication of how they will handle freezing temps.

www.snipershide.com

RUST PREVENTION
Goldenrod in safe, always-on-in-summer dehumidifier near safe with drain hose to furnace drain (replace hose every couple of years as it’ll get plugged), and Barricade rust preventative. That last one seems to work way better for me in MN than CLP or oil.

CENTERFIRE SUPPRESSOR CLEANING
You didn’t mention rimfire, so I won’t go into that. CLR, but make sure the container you use is not made of aluminum as CLR eats aluminum. I use a slim and tall stainless steel pot that I think was designed to cook a small amount of pasta or cucumbers or some weird thing.

You’re supposed to clean a centerfire supressor somewhere between every 500-1000 rounds, I believe. When new or clean, weigh your suppressor so you have some sort of idea of how dirty it is inside. I think TBAC suggests to clean after you get an ounce, but I could be wrong.

Ideally, you’d find some rubber or silicone plug, but some types of ear plugs seem to hold liquid back pretty well when stuffed in the muzzle end of the suppressor. Make sure you tape them in there and don’t push them in too far as they can rip if you pull it out and then you’re in for a lot of work. Happened to me!

CLR can etch stainless steel, so don’t let it sit on your stainless steel threads. I’ve had to leave suppressors in CLR for days and days and days; this is after not cleaning for 3000+ rounds.

I don’t bother trying to reuse CLR. I pour down the drain.

Also, I use Zep CLR and not the official branded CLR because Zep is way cheaper at Home Depot and it’s the same thing.

Personally, if it works with your current firing schedule, the easy button is to buy a TBAC suppressor because they include a free cleaning per year. I’m not sure anybody else does this.

ULTRASONIC?
I don’t use an ultrasonic but it could be handy. I don’t believe you can use CLR in an ultrasonic, but I could be wrong. I seem to remember people getting around this issue by pouring CLR in a plastic bag which includes the part you want to clean and placing that in the ultrasonic water.

And I am not sure about ultrasonic use and aluminum, Cerakote, anodizing etc etc. Research it. I think it’s best to have coated parts suspended above the metal ultrasonic tank to minimize flaking.

 

[carbonbased]

Added some more info to my post above on oil pour tests and other stuff. Figured I’d keep it in one post.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I realized I have a mish-mash of cleaning supplies I have acquired over the years. No rhyme or reason except my dad used break-free so I have some. I would like to streamline my collection to the minimum number of effective agents. Ideally, they would be non-toxic because I have kids and while I doubt they would drink the stuff better safe than sorry. Also non-toxic chemicals are much easier to dispose of where I live. Still, effectiveness comes first. This will be used primarily to clean pistols and semi-autos, but some precision bolt action cleaning will be done. In terms of use cases here is what I need:

1. Something to clean guns, duh. Carbon and copper removal are the big ones. I don't shoot many non-jacketed bullets so there shouldn't be that much lead, but that doesn't mean there won't be some here and there.

2. Something to lube guns. Should be self explanatory. What is a good, resilient lube that won't burn off too quickly? I can reapply regularly, so it doesn't need to last forever, but still.

3. Something to protect guns from rust. I keep my guns in a safe with a goldenrod, but unfortunately the room the safe is in isn't climate controlled, so some extra anti-rust protection wouldn't go amiss.

4. Something to clean suppressors. I have a couple of cans and want to clean them periodically. I know Huxwrx (whose cans I own) recommends putting a cleaning solution into a tennis ball container and soaking the can for a bit. I'm cool with that, but what should I use?
4a. Can I use the same liquid more than once, or do I need to dispose of it after each cleaning? If the latter the liquid being non-toxic would be an even bigger plus.

5. What use case am I missing?

6. Does an ultra-sonic make sense? I am inclined to doubt it since I don't shoot that many guns that much. But who am I to turn down an expensive new toy?

Thanks all

I won't wade into any debates, but I'll tell you generally what I've arrived at; feel free to let me know if you have any questions!

1.) Cleaning guns can mean a few things, but I'll assume you mean cleaning the bore; everything else is pretty easy. My process now for centerfire is:
- Soak the carbon ring with a wet patch stuck in the neck area of the chamber for 15 mins with CLR (toxic), then spin that patch to remove the loosened carbon.
- Alcohol patch then dry patch to get all the CLR out.
- Run 3-10 wet patches with C4 to remove bulk "loose" carbon from the bore, I stop when the patches seem to be coming out clean-ish.
- Rub Iosso bore paste into a patch, wrap it around an Iosso nylon brush, and run it up and down the bore, short-stroking different portions of the barrel; the first 6" or so take the most work. This is mostly for carbon, but it'll remove any excess copper as well; I don't work this step long enough to take copper out of the firecracking, because it's just gonna get laid right back in there on the first shot.
- Alcohol and dry patches to clean all the Iosso out.
- Borescope to verify consistent bore condition, reapply Iosso bore paste as needed.

2.) Hornady One Shot (the black can, not the case lube in the red can); see here for why (plus it works): https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

3.) Hornady One Shot black can, same reason as #2

4.) I use CLR, sorry. Takes me multiple batches of it, I don't reuse; corrosion risk increases if you reuse it, because more water and oxygen get into the liquid (absorbed from the air).

5.) My process for rimfire is very different. I only use C4 for that; I do a carbon ring soak for 15 mins, then push that one wet patch through the bore, wipe down the crown with the back (non-gritty) side of that patch, then run 2-3 dry patches.

6.) Not really, unless you want to use it to try to accelerate suppressor cleaning. This is pretty risky though, Thunderbeast has said themselves that their cans have corroded (etched/pitted) when they combined CLR and an ultrasonic. I use one or the other, and CLR is easier on the labor side for me. If you have an ultrasonic already it can be nice to have, but I almost never use mine for anything, including brass cleaning/prep.

 

[hafejd30]

Bolt guns: Bore tech eliminator and butches gun oil

Semi auto: bore snake and lube with slip 2000

Rimfire: Bore tech c4 carbon remover

General lube: Rem oil

Not sure I’d want my kids to drink any of it. But for the most part boretech are decently safe compared to others and do a good job

I use clr for cleaning suppressors. Definitely wouldn’t drink this

 

[Ledzep]

Bore Tech Eliminator (copper and carbon) and Wipeout (copper) for bores, ALG for lube.

 

[FisherT&C]

1. Something to clean guns, duh. Carbon and copper removal are the big ones. I don't shoot many non-jacketed bullets so there shouldn't be that much lead, but that doesn't mean there won't be some here and there.

2. Something to lube guns. Should be self explanatory. What is a good, resilient lube that won't burn off too quickly? I can reapply regularly, so it doesn't need to last forever, but still.

3. Something to protect guns from rust. I keep my guns in a safe with a goldenrod, but unfortunately the room the safe is in isn't climate controlled, so some extra anti-rust protection wouldn't go amiss.

4. Something to clean suppressors. I have a couple of cans and want to clean them periodically. I know Huxwrx (whose cans I own) recommends putting a cleaning solution into a tennis ball container and soaking the can for a bit. I'm cool with that, but what should I use?
4a. Can I use the same liquid more than once, or do I need to dispose of it after each cleaning? If the latter the liquid being non-toxic would be an even bigger plus.

5. What use case am I missing?

6. Does an ultra-sonic make sense? I am inclined to doubt it since I don't shoot that many guns that much. But who am I to turn down an expensive new toy?

Lots of Options to skin this cat.
1. Kroil for General Cleaning, substitutes Deep Creep or Free All. Bores; Hoppes#9 with bronze brush, Barnes CR-10 with nylon brush.
2. Lube for Bolt Lugs, Super Lube Synthetic or Generic Moly Grease. Semi-Auto & Full Auto Mil-Tech Oil and Grease.
3. Rust Protection, Barricade and moisture absorbing implements in the safe.
4. CLR, Automatic Transmission Fluid, ultrasonic cleaner.
5. Compressed Air
6. Maybe for suppressors, never tried it but I have customers that do it that way.

There are a lot of good answers here. Just my 2 cents which may be below whale shit.

 

[Bantam1]

We use ultra sonic machines to clean anodized and painted aluminum fishing reel parts daily at my job. They are suspended in SS baskets in a solution of Simple Green Crystal and water. The solution is also heated. If the mixture is too strong it can start to remove the dye from anodized parts, and it can start to remove some clear coats and paint. The key is finding the right solution over everything else.

If the mixture is strong you can still use it safely, but you have to drastically cut the time down of the parts in the tank. You get the same results of clean parts, just quicker. You just have to be careful not to leave the parts in for too long. We used to have a solution from Branson but the costs went too high and we switched to Simple Green Crystal. We aren't dealing with carbon, but corrosion, grease, oil, etc.