Let's be clear on this.
If you torque two screws, one dry and one lubricated with anti-sieze or even some loctite, to the same torque value, they will obviously both have the same torque value. The difference is that the lubricated screw will be seeing more tensile load (or clamping force in a bolt/nut) due to the reduced friction of the threads.
For example, here is the equation for calculating the applied torque based on the bolt tension, nominal bolt diameter, and coefficient of friction:
T = F * D * c
Where "T" is the applied torque, "F" is the bolt tension, "D" is the nominal diameter, and "c" is the coefficient of friction. Let's rearrange this equation to calculated the bolt tension from the applied torque:
F = T / (D * c)
Let's consider a rail that uses #8-40 screws, with a nominal diameter of 0.164", and assume a recommended torque spec of 15 in-lbs. The coefficient of friction for dry threads is typically around 0.20 and the for lubricated threads it is around 0.15. These are approximate values, and due to machining tolerances and the lubricant used, they can change a bit.
F_dry = (15/12) / [(0.164/12) * 0.2] ------> F_dry = ~457 lbf
F_lubed = (15/12) / [(0.164/12) * 0.15] ------> F_lubed = ~610 lbf
Both screws receive the same input torque, and the clamping force is increased relative to the ratio of the lubed friction coefficient to the dry friction coefficient.
As far as whether you should use loctite on scope rail bases or scope rings... I do, because I do not want them to come loose during recoil vibrations. In most of these cases, the recommended torque value is most likely conservative to prevent any damage in the case of over-torque. For an un-experienced torque wrench user, it is probably pretty likely that they could over-torque a #6 or #8 fastener by roughly 10-30%, so I am sure that the scope rail and ring makers take this into account. Also I am betting that they err on the side of caution when specifying torque values for scope rings because of the risk potential of damaging an expensive optic. I am sure they would rather have you torque the ring caps to a lesser value and risk your scope coming loose during recoil (which is unlikely if you torque properly and evenly), than give you a torque value with no margin for error that could cause you to damage a scope tube.
Basically, just torque your bases and ring screws slowly and evenly, and you definitely shouldn't have any issues with any of the quality makers' parts. I would recommend using some blue loctite on scope base, ring clamp, and ring cap screws. I've never had any of these screw come loose on me, and I've never had any trouble loosening the screws for removal later. Also never had any issues with leaving any marks on scope tubes from over-tightened ring caps; all my scopes have come off the rings looking absolutely brand new with no ring marks.
