Redding Die Help

[diderr]

I just got a set of Redding dies for my 6.5 RPM and having a difficult time sizing brass. Both once fired and factory new. It is very hard to get them fully in the die and nervous I’m going to sheer the rim off. Is something not adjusted right or are the outside necks too thick?
Thanks

 

[Cardboard Assassin]

What are you using for lube?

 

[nn8734]

I just got a set of Redding dies for my 6.5 RPM and having a difficult time sizing brass. Both once fired and factory new. It is very hard to get them fully in the die and nervous I’m going to sheer the rim off. Is something not adjusted right or are the outside necks too thick?
Thanks

Lube and how exactly did you set up the die?

 

[diderr]

What are you using for lube?

I normally use oneshot but that’s in a moving box an hour away. I just tried it with remount and wiped the excess. Lighter coat of oil than the case pad RCBS lube

 

[diderr]

Lube and how exactly did you set up the die?

And I ran the ram all the way up and screwed the die until it stopped. Then screwed down the decamped until it barley pushed the primer out

 

[nn8734]

And I ran the ram all the way up and screwed the die until it stopped. Then screwed down the decamped until it barley pushed the primer out

Nothing wrong with One Shot, I also use it - no issues. Die set up could be your problem. Here’s how I set mine up.

1) I take 5 pieces of fired brass from that rifle, pop out the primer then used a Hornady headspace gauge and dial calipers to measure the case head to shoulder datum. I record the most frequently occurring value across the five.

2) I screw the die in until it touches the shell holder with ram all the way up

3) I lube and size a piece of brass

4) I measure it he case head to shoulder datum and compare to my fired case and adjust the die in or out based on the measurement value and size brass until im .002” less on the case head-shoulder datum of the sized brass compared to the once-fired brass I measure in step 1. I then make index marks on the die, ring and press to keep track.

ETA: I adjust to .004” clearance for gas guns.

Is your process similar or the same?

 

[KZP]

If they are brand new and you only ran a few pieces, try taking a q-tip with some lube on it and rub it inside the die. Every time I get a new die or clean one really well, I find priming the die itself with some lube makes a big difference. I only have to do this once until I clean it again.

My hypothesis is that spanking clean dies scrape off the lube from the case after it first starts touching, leaving nothing once a case starts traveling up into the forming area.

 

[diderr]

Nothing wrong with One Shot, I also use it - no issues. Die set up could be your problem. Here’s how I set mine up.

1) I take 5 pieces of fired brass from that rifle, pop out the primer then used a Hornady headspace gauge and dial calipers to measure the case head to shoulder datum. I record the most frequently occurring value across the five.

2) I screw the die in until it touches the shell holder with ram all the way up

3) I lube and size a piece of brass

4) I measure it he case head to shoulder datum and compare to my fired case and adjust the die in or out based on the measurement value and size brass until im .002” less on the case head-shoulder datum of the sized brass compared to the once-fired brass I measure in step 1. I then make index marks on the die, ring and press to keep track.

ETA: I adjust to .004” clearance for gas guns.

Is your process similar or the same?

good info! Thanks!

 

[diderr]

If they are brand new and you only ran a few pieces, try taking a q-tip with some lube on it and rub it inside the die. Every time I get a new die or clean one really well, I find priming the die itself with some lube makes a big difference. I only have to do this once until I clean it again.

My hypothesis is that spanking clean dies scrape off the lube from the case after it first starts touching, leaving nothing once a case starts traveling up into the forming area.

Makes a lot of sense there! I usually just lube the expander ball on new dies and usually fine until I clean the die. I’m use to RCBS sizing dies and these Redding’s seem like tighter tolerances (in a good way)

 

[smoothy8500]

And I ran the ram all the way up and screwed the die until it stopped. Then screwed down the decamped until it barley pushed the primer out

Doesn't the expander on Redding dies sit really high up just under the neck? Maybe its too high and jamming into the neck as it sizes?

 

[918v]

You need to break the die in. Otherwise cases will get stuck.

 

[ZY100]

OP’s oneshot is an hour away. He is using “remount”…which I think is the autocorrect for “Remoil”.

That is the issue. Use a proper case lube and your problems will go away. Gun oil is a very poor case lube.

Z

 

[Baron23]

@diderr - from Redding's site:

"Because EP agents are not present in ordinary oils and greases, they are not suitable for cartridge case resizing. Use of improper lubricants will result in a multitude of problems, some of which include: stuck cases, scratched cases, difficulty resizing, etc."​

​

"If your dies are new, the original preservative oil the dies are shipped with is not a case lube and you should remove it thoroughly before using the die as the instruction sheet stipulates.​

After cleaning, apply a light coating of Imperial Sizing Die Wax or Redding Original Formula Case Lube to the die's interior with a Q-Tip®. Be sure to examine the die thoroughly and remove any excess."​

I cleaned the interior of my FL Redding die with gun solvent (BC Gun Scrubber) and then applied some One Shot Case Lube as I too like that product.

Hopefully this info is slightly helpful.

 

[FLIGHT762]

In a pinch, you can use synthetic motor oil as a case lube. You have to be careful you don't use too much you will cause hydraulic dents in the case shoulder.

It would be good for you to get a tin of Imperial case lube. It will work for those big cases.

If it was a typo in your post about using "Remount" meaning Remoil, Remoil will not work as a case lube as ZY100 pointed out.

 

[B y r o n]

Imperial Sizing Wax gets my vote for best lubes.

 

[Halfnutz]

Imperial is the best I have tried. Gave up on the sprays.

Old gunsmith would use crisco.

 

[AllenOne1]

Could be the die. I have a Redding 6.5 Creedmoor die that was really hard to break in. I was using Hornady Unique case lube and if you put enough lube on to go in and out relatively easy you would start getting case dents. After a few hundred it did get better, not great. Emailed Redding about it but never got a response from them. Finally replaced it with a Forester and then a Whidden and never had the same issue using the same lube.

 

[918v]

That’s because those dies have a vent hole for excess lube to escape.

 

[AllenOne1]

That’s because those dies have a vent hole for excess lube to escape.

No it is because the other dies where made a lot better. I use Hornady lnl bushings which tend to block the vent holes anyway. The Redding was a pile, bad from day one and no you are not going to convince me any differently. I own it, I've used it and I know.

 

[918v]

You don’t know how to use a die

 

[AllenOne1]

You don’t know how to use a die

Redding Fanboy!

 

[918v]

Tard.

I own dies from various manufacturers.

 

[diderr]

Well… sh*t

 

[AllenOne1]

Well… sh*t

What lube were you using when this happened? I remember hearing someone say they put the die in the freezer for awhile then was able to drive the case out from the top, not sure if they applied any heat or not. Haven't had to try it myself. Yet.

 

[diderr]

What lube were you using when this happened? I remember hearing someone say they put the die in the freezer for awhile then was able to drive the case out from the top, not sure if they applied any heat or not. Haven't had to try it myself. Yet.

I was using RCBS case lube and cleaned the die really well before hand

 

[AllenOne1]

I would assume that should have worked fine.

 

[Schw15]

Well… sh*t

Hate redding dies!! I know most love them but issues for me

 

[B y r o n]

Well… sh*t

Looks like it is time for one of these:

 

[diderr]

“The fee for stuck case removal is $20, this includes
removing the stuck case, polishing inside of die, and
ultrasonically cleaning the die.

We highly recommend using Imperial Sizing Wax.
It is by far the best out there and does make a big difference,
especially with these cases with a large surface area that
contacts the inside of the die.


Please use attached form if you send it in and fill in all info.
Address for shipping too is at the bottom of the form.
Please also include 4 or 5 fired cases from your rifle for testing,
you will get the brass back.”

answer I got from Redding. It was having trouble with virgin brass too; like harder than anything I’ve ever sized. Hopefully they will get it all sized right for me

 

[smoothy8500]

cleaned the die really well before hand

Did you wipe a little lube inside the die after cleaning it/before use?

 

[diderr]

Did you wipe a little lube inside the die after cleaning it/before use?

I didn’t. Man these are a lot pickier than the RCBS and Forster I normally use

 

[Halfnutz]

Did someone mention Imperial yet?
Your stuck case troubles will disappear.

 

[diderr]

I will order some imperial

 

[AllenOne1]

I didn’t. Man these are a lot pickier than the RCBS and Forster I normally use

I think you have a bad die, even a decent die shouldn't act any different than your other dies. Everyone in the world doesn't use Imperial and we all get by with what ever we are using, the RCBS lube should have worked fine and I would bet it will work just fine in your other dies. Die makers don't admit they put out bad dies but sometimes they do.

If you do send it in for repair mark it to see if you get the same one back or they just replace it with one that is in spec.

 

[diderr]

I’m sending it back for repair and stuck case removal tomorrow with 5 cases from my gun. I’ve never felt a die this tight before

 

[918v]

All Redding dies will do this if you don’t break them in first.

 

[RldrNewby]

All Redding dies will do this if you don’t break them in first.

I’ve only been reloading for a couple years, so I only have three dies. One for 223 & two for 6.5CM. I did notice my RCBS Small Base for my AR15 sized really smooth compared to the two Redding’s I have. One is a standard Die, & the other a Type-S Bushing. Both Redding’s felt tighter, and they were sensitive to how well the cases were lubed. I assumed the RCBS was easier due to the case size 223 vs 6.5, but now I’m wondering if it’s just how they’re made. I’ve never had a stuck case in the Redding’s, and they seem much easier to use now that I have many hundreds of cases thru them. I was wondering if one could chuck a small wooden dowel into a cordless drill, dribble some Flitz polishing compound onto some blue scotch brite, then run it into the die body a little while to speed up the break in process?

 

[Cardboard Assassin]

Well… sh*t

Happens to me every once in a while.

I would try to secure the case in a vice and try turning the die (if you can get it to turn it will loosen to some degree then you can try to extract it). If its easier you could do it the other way around (secure the die in a vice and twist the case with water pump pliers or similar). Case is toast obviously (probably toast already - looks chewed up)

I've never tried this but if its possible to get a penetrating type lubricant in there it couldn't hurt. Food for thought and good luck.

Edit - sounds like you did everything correctly and if so there may be an issue with the die.

 

[918v]

I’ve only been reloading for a couple years, so I only have three dies. One for 223 & two for 6.5CM. I did notice my RCBS Small Base for my AR15 sized really smooth compared to the two Redding’s I have. One is a standard Die, & the other a Type-S Bushing. Both Redding’s felt tighter, and they were sensitive to how well the cases were lubed. I assumed the RCBS was easier due to the case size 223 vs 6.5, but now I’m wondering if it’s just how they’re made. I’ve never had a stuck case in the Redding’s, and they seem much easier to use now that I have many hundreds of cases thru them. I was wondering if one could chuck a small wooden dowel into a cordless drill, dribble some Flitz polishing compound onto some blue scotch brite, then run it into the die body a little while to speed up the break in process?

If you take a brand new Redding die and remove the protective lube using a solvent like brake cleaner or similar it will leave you with bare metal that is bone dry.

They polish these dies with sandpaper on a dowel. This causes fine burrs on the inside and these burrs scrape lube off the brass. That’s how the brass gets stuck and that’s why the die feels tight.

Remember, the brass is not supposed to touch the inside of the die. It’s supposed to ride a layer of lube that’s in between. Something sharp like a burr that cuts through the lube will fuck up the process.

So what to do?

I lube the inside of the die and the case. I run the case into the die until I feel resistance and then just a little more. I withdraw the case and the lube is partially scrapped off. I relube the case and run it up into the die again. This time it goes in deeper without resistance. Once I feel resistance I go in a little more and withdraw the case. I relube the case and repeat the process until the whole case goes in.

After the third case the die smooths out and is good to go. The break in process flattens out those sharp burrs. You can clean the die with solvent and not have to worry about stuck cases again.