Redding die problem, can I salvage the brass?

.286 - .288 bushing will work but you'll be expanding the neck quite a bit if you use a mandrel. I've not had a problem with it because the primer pocket usually gives out before any neck splitting.
 
It's not One shots effectiveness I don't like it's the fact it's an aerosol and your breathing it in use .
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Yes I know, anything I can do to check the die?
Back off your sizing die so it's not contacting the shoulder - cycle the ram, it should measure the same as fired. Add 1/8 turn of the sizing die until you can measure a bump (.001-.002"). Stop there and see if the bolt closes without heavy pressure. If it does, stop. That's your shoulder bump. If the case needs another 1/8th turn, add it in and measure - but that should be all you'll need.

Maybe something is off with the Redding micrometer gauge - I don't use one. I prefer a comparator gauge on a digital caliper.
 
Back off your sizing die so it's not contacting the shoulder - cycle the ram, it should measure the same as fired. Add 1/8 turn of the sizing die until you can measure a bump (.001-.002"). Stop there and see if the bolt closes without heavy pressure. If it does, stop. That's your shoulder bump. If the case needs another 1/8th turn, add it in and measure - but that should be all you'll need.

Maybe something is off with the Redding micrometer gauge - I don't use one. I prefer a comparator gauge on a digital caliper.
It has one inside of it. Nifty little tool. Has an adapter to check ogive, shoulder, and total case length.

I don't think it's off. If you look at the earlier pictures the shoulder was visually bumped back enough you can just about measure with a tape measure. 50 tho is definitely eyeball visable. It look like 50 tho, eyeballing it with calipers says 50 tho, and now the dial indicator says 50 tho
 
So from a factory round your indicator says +0.006 growth , sounds about normal.

1 1/2 thousands to 0.002 bump on a bolt gun and 0.004 on a semi automatic should work on most chambers.

At 0.050 that brass is ruined.
Call it settup material.
One full 360 turn counter clockwise from touching shell holder should have you not moving shoulder and as was suggested go slow and in small increments clockwise till you can feel the die just touch the shoulder.
Take a measurement then and a very small adjustment till you get the bump.

Take a fresh case and try to repeat that measurement, lock it in place.

If that doesn't work you may have a bad die.

We got 2 bad hornady dies in a row 1 1/2 years ago. Probably happens to any mfg .
I'm thinking use first fired brass to set indicator to zero on and come down on brass till you get - 0.002
 
Thought I would post a resolution to this saga. After this debacle I switch to a cheap RCBS die for a little while with a lot of success and put this die away. Put 1000 rounds on that die and got some more experience.

bought some SRP that I needed a smaller decapping pin for and this Redding die had one so it was time to revisit this.

my rcbs die needed to be screwed all the way down to the shell holder to get the correct Bump, and every set up video I watched was the same thing. I assumed this Redding die was the same way. Nope not even close.

started by backing the die way out and slowing moving down. Got my .002 shoulder bump with the die 1/16 of an inch or so off of the shell holder. So the die was indeed way over sizing the case. Guess it was possible to get the die to size the cases that much. Die works great now
 
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Buy a Wilson case gauge for every bottleneck cartridge you reload for, at least as a new reloader, then learn how to use it, if you want to understand what is going on with your setup.

Also, spray lube sucks. I've used a dozen different things. RCBS lube and lube pad is easy to control. Every 10th piece of brass drag the case mouth on the pad and get a little lube inside the neck. Your expander ball will thank you for it.
 
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As a couple here have said, those cases in the first picture don't even look the same. OP, you are sure the die is what you think it is, and it hasn't been modified? .050 is a lot of bump, and the angle looks off.
 
As a couple here have said, those cases in the first picture don't even look the same. OP, you are sure the die is what you think it is, and it hasn't been modified? .050 is a lot of bump, and the angle looks off.
Buy a Wilson case gauge for every bottleneck cartridge you reload for, at least as a new reloader, then learn how to use it, if you want to understand what is going on with your setup.

Also, spray lube sucks. I've used a dozen different things. RCBS lube and lube pad is easy to control. Every 10th piece of brass drag the case mouth on the pad and get a little lube inside the neck. Your expander ball will thank you for it.
I think you should get someone who know's what they are doing and who has the right tools to walk you through the reloading process.
Post #64 ?
 
Wilson case gauges are awesome. You must have not figured out how to use it correctly.

In a perfect world, the gunsmith chambering your barrel would make a case gauge using the same reamer as he used for chambering your barrel.
 
Thought I would post a resolution to this saga. After this debacle I switch to a cheap RCBS die for a little while with a lot of success and put this die away. Put 1000 rounds on that die and got some more experience.

bought some SRP that I needed a smaller decapping pin for and this Redding die had one so it was time to revisit this.

my rcbs die needed to be screwed all the way down to the shell holder to get the correct Bump, and every set up video I watched was the same thing. I assumed this Redding die was the same way. Nope not even close.

started by backing the die way out and slowing moving down. Got my .002 shoulder bump with the die 1/16 of an inch or so off of the shell holder. So the die was indeed way over sizing the case. Guess it was possible to get the die to size the cases that much. Die works great now

Send the die back
 
Hence the companion product to the sizer die available from Redding for those that believe bumping the shell holder on the bottom of the die is important for concentricity -