Redding Dies. Which Ones????

Ballistic Artist

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Jan 3, 2012
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Im looking at a set of redding dies for my 300 win mag. Trouble is, which ones? I like the competition set but they are expensive and I have heard that there is not a huge advantage over the standard dies? Any imput? Im punching .300" ctc 3 shot groups at 100yds with remington factory match ammo so I am not sure if its worth the extra money for the comp set. Im kinda lost lol.
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Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

It would likely be good for you to stick with the Remington stuff forever. Sub half inch groups with any magnum .30 cal sporting rifle is rare.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

Forget the Reddings and go with a set of Forster ultras. The micrometer feature is very nice (practically essential) if you are loading right up to the lands. Yes, they are worth the money.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

I prefer the redding S type bushing dies... I load for a custom remmy 700 and an OBR... Having the flexibility of changing out bushings to each application has been very beneficial. The micro seater die allows a no guess work function when seating a variety of projectiles (amax, smk, RN, etc...).

My 2 cents
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It would likely be good for you to stick with the Remington stuff forever. Sub half inch groups with any magnum .30 cal sporting rifle is rare. </div></div>

Sorry I forgot to say, this is NOT a factory sporting rifle. This is a Rem 700 custom. Theonly thing on this weapon thats remington is the reciever, and its been fully blueprinted and trued. The chamber was cut with a ptg made Crane Navel Warfare tactical match print reamer. Its got a 26" Bartlein #9HV 5R 1-10" twist CM barrel with a 11 deg. target crown. Its got a Badger M5 Bottom metal, A Competitive Edge Gunworks bolt, And is cradled in a McMillan A-5 stock with spacer system and thumbweel cheekpiece. Badger mounting solution and a Leupold 6.5-20x50 LRT M1 with illuminated TMR reticle. Custom built from the ground up by me. Its a 17 pound pig with a long reach. Amen.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

Only Redding Die I don't care for is their F/L sizing die. For some darn reason I can't seem to keep it from making "lube dents" in my brass. I've hosed it out with Brake Kleen, cleaned it with Q-Tips, and for lube, used barely enough Unique for me to feel it on the case yet 3 out of 5 cases will end up with dented shoulders. I've put the F/L sizing die away and use my Lee F/L die when full length sizing. It has the relief hole that allows air and lube to escape. Not there on the Redding.

For Seating Die, I prefer the Redding with micrometer.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

The Redding 3 die set that use the bushing to neck size, is a good choice. The bushing will allow you to determine the amount of neck tension as you resize the neck. Don't forget you still going to need to anneal your cases.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

Never had any problems with the Redding Comp dies.....I use Hornady, RCBS, and Lee for most of my stuff, but for my comp rifle I use the Redding stuff...I like the Type S full length sizer, and the Competition Seating die, I also have the neck sizer and it works well...I need to full length size my .338 LM for consistent loads and so I do not get stuck cases with hot loads....A friend uses Hornady dies (for .338LM and .300) and loves them, I never tried em , and will stick to the Redding stuff for precision rifle...
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ballistic artist</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have heard that there is not a huge advantage over the standard dies? Any imput?</div></div>

The Redding competition bushing sizer die is good, not for the micrometer sitting on top, but for the sliding sleave that fully supports the case while sizing. This (mostly) eliminates banana shaped cases.

The Redding bullet seater die with the micrometer is good for a) maintaining concentricity, b) running depth seating experiments.

IN both cases, there are ways to set up your typical simple dies to produce just as good ammo, but at more time in the effort to "learn how" department. So, do you 'have to': no. Will you thank yourself down the line after "learning how": probably.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MitchAlsup</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
IN both cases, there are ways to set up your typical simple dies to produce just as good ammo, but at more time in the effort to "learn how" department. So, do you 'have to': no. Will you thank yourself down the line after "learning how": probably. </div></div>

This is true for just about any task. Does a Carpenter with a fancy power saw, pneumatic nailer, and laser levels, build a better house than a skilled Carpenter with hand saw, square, folding rule, and plumb bob?

It all depends on what each has learned. Some tools just make the job go faster, they don't maker the operator any smarter or necessarily provide a better finished product.
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

Ok so it looks like im goin with the redding type s neck sizer, and the redding comp seater. Does the S type neck size die bump the shoulder or do I need to get a body die too? I noticed the forster neck sizes and bumps the shoulder at the same time. But I do like the redding a bit better. And I would like to stick with one brand if I can. Does the shoulder need to be set back often on a 300 win mag? I have a "Crane Navel tactical Match chamber" as PTG calls it. (AWESOME reamers by the way, The only ones i will buy from now on) Oh, and is it a must to anneal the cases if Im neck sizing?
 
Re: Redding Dies. Which Ones????

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ballistic artist</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Oh, and is it a must to anneal the cases if Im neck sizing? </div></div>

Must? Always a matter of opinion. Good Idea, absolutely. The Neck is the area you want to "yield" consistently both when sizing and again when firing. Best way to insure this is annealing.