This is my first time reloading the 223 for my AR. So I thought I’d done my due diligence gathering all the right parts snd tools. I bought the small base dies from RCBS , I trimmed all the cases to exactly the same length, I’ve cleaned out all the primer pockets and COL then I reloaded 10 rounds and some of them fit the barrel and some of them don’t.... help Mr. wizard.
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Reloading 233/5.56 for AR15 needs help
- Thread starter Nick Danger
- Start date
Mr wizard says you need to measure a fired cases then adjust your die so sized cases get shmushed .002-.004 shorter at the shoulder and check to make sure bullets are getting jammed in the throat while you’re at it.
yes... both ways. Slowly and also just slammin' it from the latch... Im going to make some measurements and try again
Op,
You didn’t give history or info of the brass, bullet. If fired in other weapons, you may need to size the brass to reduce the base diameter. In that case you may bump the shoulder back more than above. Also, make sure bullets are NOT getting jammed in the throat.
If you're loading for an AR, just seat bullets to a little shorter than max magazine length and I would think you could rest assured the bullet won't get jammed into the throat/lands.
If you're crimping your bullets you may be OVER crimping and slightly collapsing your shoulders. This causes a bulge just below the shoulder that will prevent the round from chambering. Especially if using the built-in crimp feature of your seating die. I crimp mine in a seperate operation with a taper crimp die or better yet a Lee Factory Crimp die. Even if every case is exactly the same length, a variation in neck thickness will cause an overcrimp with the normal roll crimp feature in your seating die. And I never seat/crimp in the same operation, even with revolver rounds.
As for case gages, I recommend the JP Rifles gage. These are cut to actual chamber dimensions with tapered walls etc just like your chamber. Some case gages may have straight sidewalls and only measure critical headspace and length dimensions and they may not catch the slightly bulged shoulders etc. This one will. If I load 10 rds or 1000 rds, I go through and drop every one of them in this gage before I consider the task done.
I'm just telling you what worked for me over the years in dealing with the same problems you describe. May not work for you or anybody else but it's the method I've developed in order to have full confidence in my ammo so that I can share it with my family. YMMV
If you're crimping your bullets you may be OVER crimping and slightly collapsing your shoulders. This causes a bulge just below the shoulder that will prevent the round from chambering. Especially if using the built-in crimp feature of your seating die. I crimp mine in a seperate operation with a taper crimp die or better yet a Lee Factory Crimp die. Even if every case is exactly the same length, a variation in neck thickness will cause an overcrimp with the normal roll crimp feature in your seating die. And I never seat/crimp in the same operation, even with revolver rounds.
As for case gages, I recommend the JP Rifles gage. These are cut to actual chamber dimensions with tapered walls etc just like your chamber. Some case gages may have straight sidewalls and only measure critical headspace and length dimensions and they may not catch the slightly bulged shoulders etc. This one will. If I load 10 rds or 1000 rds, I go through and drop every one of them in this gage before I consider the task done.
I'm just telling you what worked for me over the years in dealing with the same problems you describe. May not work for you or anybody else but it's the method I've developed in order to have full confidence in my ammo so that I can share it with my family. YMMV
I used the small base .223 die set from rcbs 11103. I do have mixed brass but it’s all been fired through this rifle.
I looked at the Jp gauge. It says 223 Wilde on it. Isn’t that different than 223 rem or 5.56?
Is there a reason why you don’t want to say if you measured the brass? Ho else are you going to figure out where it’s binding? Do you have a dial caliper?
I see you have the SB die, so that's not the issue. Sounds like you may need to give the die another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. While sizing a case check to see if there is still a bit of daylight between the bottom of the die and the shell holder. You might see the .002" or more gap.
An easy "case check" is to use your stripped bolt and with your fingers, see if several of the freshly sized cases will allow the bolt to close on the chamber.
What are you measuring to get the 2.195 number? Is this catridge base to tip of bullet or the OAL of just the case?
What bullet are you loading? Need more info from you before any diagnosis can be made.
All brass was trimmed to 1.750" measured each on with dial calipers... i also measured up and down the cartridge and they all are in spec..
Yes it works. Sorry I haven't been able to look at a computer for a while.
If you are crimping and you over crimp the case you usually can see the problem. Hold the offending cartridge up to the light and lay a straight edge along the body of the case. It should be straight from the case rim to the point of the shoulder. If it's over crimped, there will be light showing just below the point of the shoulder.
I went back and inspected all the ones that I had loaded and then the ones that were getting stuck and sure enough there was a slight I’ll just say bulge on two and I redid everything and now they seem to cycle correctly. I must have changed the die adjustment ... thanks a lot I appreciate your input...
It appears I had my die misadjusted for part of my run... I have since reloaded 20 more rounds and all cycle as they should. Thx to all for your inputs...
Although I do all my rifle brass sizing on a single stage press, I then load them on my Dillon 550B. Bullets get seated in station 3 and crimped seperately in station 4. I never use the crimp function of my seating die. I have Lee factory crimp dies and some CH4D taper crimp dies for all my rifle rounds that I crimp. I crimp all my ammo for use in semiautos and lever actions. I do not crimp for bolt guns unless I'm just experimenting.
If you can feel much resistance at all during the crimping process, then you're probably overdoing it. When setting my crimp die I will probably crimp like 10 rds before I get it to the perfect feel. I don't turn down necks etc so there will be variations, due to different neck thicknesses, in the amount of resistance I feel from one rd to the next. I adjust until I can just barely feel resistance at the very end of the stroke on the lightest ones and never a LOT of resistance on the harder ones. This method is with a taper crimp die. The Lee factory crimp is a bit different and I prefer it for most all rifle crimping.
All pistol and revolver ammo gets the taper crimp (again, in a seperate operation from seating) and it is not nearly as critical as the roll crimp would be.
I HAVE run a good bit of UNcrimped ammo through semiautos without any issues but I always have that little thought in my mind "OK, if it's not necessary then why do the big ammo makers do it?"
If you can feel much resistance at all during the crimping process, then you're probably overdoing it. When setting my crimp die I will probably crimp like 10 rds before I get it to the perfect feel. I don't turn down necks etc so there will be variations, due to different neck thicknesses, in the amount of resistance I feel from one rd to the next. I adjust until I can just barely feel resistance at the very end of the stroke on the lightest ones and never a LOT of resistance on the harder ones. This method is with a taper crimp die. The Lee factory crimp is a bit different and I prefer it for most all rifle crimping.
All pistol and revolver ammo gets the taper crimp (again, in a seperate operation from seating) and it is not nearly as critical as the roll crimp would be.
I HAVE run a good bit of UNcrimped ammo through semiautos without any issues but I always have that little thought in my mind "OK, if it's not necessary then why do the big ammo makers do it?"
