Reloading Equipment Question

[wwrhodes91]

Hey guys,
I know this is a common question and I have tried to read as much as possible before asking, but I am new to reloading and I am looking at these items:
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Kit
Lyman Flash hole uniformer
Forster Bench Rest Die Set
Lyman Case length headspace gage
RCBS Flit-top ammo box
Lyman case prep multi tool
Frankford Arsenal Caliper

Is there anything else I should look at? Are any of these unnecessary? I'm looking at trimmers now. I shoot f-class style 200-300 yard matches every month if that changes anything. I will probably be using 175 SMKs and 178 A-max for the most part. Thanks.

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[milo 2.0]

You're close there, get a comparator to measure with. Shit can those RCBS ammo boxes, they are high dollar, get a 10 pack of Mtm ones with hinged lids, I just bought 10 for $34.?? from Midway. A priming tool other than the press is nice also, not sure what is in the kit.

Good Luck!

 

[wwrhodes91]

I needed to add the RCBS boxes to get a $50 rebate from RCBS. The kit comes with a hand primer. I will look into comparators thanks.

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[Pinecone]

Get some good case lube. I like the Dillon spray lube. But you can make your own with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol and lanolin. 10 to 1.

The case gauge is not really needed. You will use the comparator (I have the Hornady with inserts to check case shoulder length and bullet seating to ogive). The case gauge is good if you are loading the same rounds for multiple firearms, as the case gauge is set to gauge to SAAMI specs to fit all chambers.

For calipers for the comparator and other use, I just get the Harbor Freight digitals (Chinese, cheap, also available from other sources).

You may want to get a micrometer to set neck tension, but the calipers will work.

You don't have anything for case cleaning. I prefer a vibratory tumbler (I have a Lyman) with corn cob media and a case separator (I have a small Dillon).

 

[colscar]

dont forget the bullet puller, ive fucked up a few reloads and needed to use it at times cuz my oal was sometimes off , but thats me had some shavings on my shell holder and it caused the bullet to seat at a diffrent depth. powder trikler and a good scale

 

[wwrhodes91]

Get some good case lube. I like the Dillon spray lube. But you can make your own with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol and lanolin. 10 to 1.

The case gauge is not really needed. You will use the comparator (I have the Hornady with inserts to check case shoulder length and bullet seating to ogive). The case gauge is good if you are loading the same rounds for multiple firearms, as the case gauge is set to gauge to SAAMI specs to fit all chambers.

For calipers for the comparator and other use, I just get the Harbor Freight digitals (Chinese, cheap, also available from other sources).

You may want to get a micrometer to set neck tension, but the calipers will work.

You don't have anything for case cleaning. I prefer a vibratory tumbler (I have a Lyman) with corn cob media and a case separator (I have a small Dillon).

I was just going to use the headspace gage to make sure I have my sizing die set to bump the shoulder .001-.002. I already have a tumbler and cleaning stuff. Are comparators really that essential? They aren't expensive, but I might have to buy it a little later.

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[Fuzzball]

"I needed to add the RCBS boxes to get a $50 rebate from RCBS."

You can get good freebies from RCBS but it will cost you.

I don't know what any kit includes but you gonna need a manual, shell holders, powder funnel, size lube (apply with fingers - not a lube pad), loading block, scale, powder measure and trickler, a case trimmer and de-bur tool.

 

[wwrhodes91]

"I needed to add the RCBS boxes to get a $50 rebate from RCBS."

You can get good freebies from RCBS but it will cost you.

I don't know what any kit includes but you gonna need a manual, shell holders, powder funnel, size lube (apply with fingers - not a lube pad), loading block, scale, powder measure and trickler, a case trimmer and de-bur tool.

The kit comes with all of that except for the trimmer or trickler.

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[witchhunter]

Add a set of scale check weights and caliber specific funnels. MTM makes great loading blocks for popular calibers.

 

[Pinecone]

I have never used a loading block.

I charge the case, then seat the bullet.

 

[1J04]

"I needed to add the RCBS boxes to get a $50 rebate from RCBS."

You can get good freebies from RCBS but it will cost you.

I don't know what any kit includes but you gonna need a manual, shell holders, powder funnel, size lube (apply with fingers - not a lube pad), loading block, scale, powder measure and trickler, a case trimmer and de-bur tool.

Fuzzball: Why not a pad if kept cleaned of debris and lube build up? Just curious.

OP: Heavy duty and/or good-n-sturdy bench, appropriate/comfortable size stool/chair, storage boxes with O-Rings, gun vise of some sort, plenty of cleaning supplies and shop towels, all the info you can afford to print or buy off the shelf, stainless tumbler cuz you're gonna want one eventually. Skip the ultrasonic if even thinking that way and go the extra step to stainless media. Lot's of moisture here in Washington so I put those dehumidifier chips/squares from Midway and come in lots of die sets in damn near everything I have boxed and bagged up. Might as well throw in the torque wrench cuz you're eventually gonna wanna start measuring how many lbs of torque you're putting to your screws on your action and rings and such . It just doesn't stop, really. Have fun and check/inspect check/inspect.

 

[Fuzzball]

"Fuzzball: Why not a pad if kept cleaned of debris and lube build up? Just curious."

Good question. Several reasons.

First, it's virtually impossible to keep pads clean or clean them very well when they do get gritty. Meaning it's virtually impossible not to get pad grit on the cases to be sized.

Pads work best with the old oily type case lubes like lanoline or RCBS (actually expensively repackaged STP oil treatment), which are great case lubes but nasty on the cases and they are a PITA to get off the cases ... and fingers.

Compaired to finger-tip lubing with a quick rub of a clean wax type lube as you pick up each case to place it on a shell holder it takes only maybe a second more per case than not applying the lube then - meaning I find it faster to finger lube than to pad lube. Redding's Imperial Sizing Wax, Hornady's Unique, Kiwi's "Mink Oil" and Sno-Seal boot treatments, etc., are all great soft wax case lubes but they don't do well on pads. IF/when you get grit on your fingers using a wax lube you will feel and know it, immediately. And I can't imagine anyone using enough wax to cause a shoulder lube dent but dents are common using pads. I have paper towel roll holder mounted above my bench and I can wipe the waxes off quite well with that. I also have a quart can of cheep denatured alcohol on my bench so if I dampen a paper towel with it I can totally clean both cases and fingers with a quick wipe.

Bottom line, EVERYTHING else is less messy than oily pad lubes!

 

[1J04]

Should have seen this coming. Makes great sense. Not to jack the thread too far but I've gotta can of the Imperial and just haven't made the move to it yet and got off the lube pad. OP, ya probably wanna heed this too, I'm gonna. Thx Fuzzball.