Reloading for multiple rifles of same cartridge

[Old Man with Gun]

I'm getting back into reloading after over 20 years out. I knew I was going to for a long time and have thousands of once fired brass and am starting to work up loads as I find components.

Some are easy, I have only one 6.5 Creedmoor and only one 458 Socom.

But I have three 6.5 Grendel, four 300 Blackout and seven 223/5.56.

So, getting into the last group, how do you deal with them? I want one load for all three Grendels. I don't know if one load for all of the 5.56 is realistic.

The 6.5 Grendel I have a 22" bolt gun and want to get as much accuracy as I can, an 18" AR I'd like MOA from and a 12.5" SBR that I want to be able to safely shoot the ammo made for the others. I want one load for all three rifles.

My first plan is a range trip to fire some factory ammo from each and keep the spent brass separated so I get measurements for each rifles fire formed brass.

I plan on FL resizing and bumping the bolt shoulder at least .001 and the semi-automatic .003 and then use the single shortest measurement for them all.

I need to run AR mags, but will measure each chamber to lands and come up with something reasonable to start for OAL or just match factory ammo spec.

I am loading Hornady 123g SST with 2520 and CCI 450 primers.

Plan is load 15 each of a bunch of different charges and shoot 5 each per rifle to check accuracy and pressure. Hope I get lucky. Pick a charge and play with seating depth the same way.

Anyone try this, have feedback or advice?

When I get to the 5.56 I have 4 capable of great accuracy. A T3x Varmint, RRA 24" Varmint, RRA 20" Predator and RRA 18" ATH.
Both 69g and 77gr FGMM work well in all 4, how much am I giving up not tailoring to each?

 

[Billdoe708]

I run the same load in 3 different bolt action 22-250. The load was made for one for woodchucks as distance. Ended up an inch or less for the other two. I was happy enough. Of course the other two are used for sub 300 yards.

It's a milder load of H4895 under a 55 gr Speer sp over a federal match primer. It doesn't have issues in winter for coyotes or summer for woodchucks.

 

[powerspc]

For the 5.56/.223 I guess it depends on what you’re trying to do. If you’re just looking for decent plinking loads then yes, you can have one load. I’m using 24.4 grains of H335 with a 62 grain FMJ, COL: 2.229 and WSR primers. I’m getting around 3,000 f/ps (only measured out of the 16” barrel) and using this same load for 4 LMT’s (10.5”, 14”, 16” and 20”barrels) as well as an IWI Tavor (16” barrel).

 

[B y r o n]

It's 100% doable! As an example, for years Federal Gold Medal Match has been the gold standard at least for the 308. The reason being is that it shoots good in about every rifle it is shot in. People strive to reach the accuracy of that ammo in their own handloads. Take a look at the SAAMI drawings for the cartridges you have. Reload to those spec's and it will fit in any of your rifles.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

For the 5.56/.223 I guess it depends on what you’re trying to do. If you’re just looking for decent plinking loads then yes, you can have one load. I’m using 24.4 grains of H335 with a 62 grain FMJ, COL: 2.229 and WSR primers. I’m getting around 3,000 f/ps (only measured out of the 16” barrel) and using this same load for 4 LMT’s (10.5”, 14”, 16” and 20”barrels) as well as an IWI Tavor (16” barrel).

I have some 5.56 rifles that I'm fine feeding bulk junk to, but the 4 I mentioned are .4, .5, .7 and .8 with FGMM ammo. I'd like to at least match that with my reloading.

 

[powerspc]

I have some 5.56 rifles that I'm fine feeding bulk junk to, but the 4 I mentioned are .4, .5, .7 and .8 with FGMM ammo. I'd like to at least match that with my reloading.

Understood; my load data is what I consider "plinking" rounds (putting holes in "Q" targets at a hundred yard), definitely not precision reloads! That said I think you will be able to find a good solution!

 

[Choid]

You can also segregate the brass between them and use Redding competition shellholders to bump appropriately for each rifle. Load for a couple of creedmoors with the same OAL, but vary headspace and, slightly, powder charge.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

You can also segregate the brass between them and use Redding competition shellholders to bump appropriately for each rifle. Load for a couple of creedmoors with the same OAL, but vary headspace and, slightly, powder charge.

I'm hoping I don't have to go there, but I understand it may be a requirement if I don't get the accuracy I want.

 

[Choid]

Just my opinion, but shoulder bump isn't particularly determinative of accuracy. It has more to do with brass life.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Thanks for the good advice, I have a 223 FGMM copy load using 24.0g CFE223 and 77g SMK that is an exact velocity match and shoots good in everything. I did develop a custom 75g ELD-M for a T3X bolt gun that uses AI mags and I can load long, but that rifle still shoots my copy FGMM under MOA as well.

Got simular results with a copy of 6.5 Grendel Hornady 123g SST. Closely matching factory velocity again gave me a load that does well in 3 rifles.

 

[bax]

I'm getting back into reloading after over 20 years out. I knew I was going to for a long time and have thousands of once fired brass and am starting to work up loads as I find components.

Some are easy, I have only one 6.5 Creedmoor and only one 458 Socom.

But I have three 6.5 Grendel, four 300 Blackout and seven 223/5.56.

So, getting into the last group, how do you deal with them? I want one load for all three Grendels. I don't know if one load for all of the 5.56 is realistic.

The 6.5 Grendel I have a 22" bolt gun and want to get as much accuracy as I can, an 18" AR I'd like MOA from and a 12.5" SBR that I want to be able to safely shoot the ammo made for the others. I want one load for all three rifles.

My first plan is a range trip to fire some factory ammo from each and keep the spent brass separated so I get measurements for each rifles fire formed brass.

I plan on FL resizing and bumping the bolt shoulder at least .001 and the semi-automatic .003 and then use the single shortest measurement for them all.

I need to run AR mags, but will measure each chamber to lands and come up with something reasonable to start for OAL or just match factory ammo spec.

I am loading Hornady 123g SST with 2520 and CCI 450 primers.

Plan is load 15 each of a bunch of different charges and shoot 5 each per rifle to check accuracy and pressure. Hope I get lucky. Pick a charge and play with seating depth the same way.

Anyone try this, have feedback or advice?

When I get to the 5.56 I have 4 capable of great accuracy. A T3x Varmint, RRA 24" Varmint, RRA 20" Predator and RRA 18" ATH.
Both 69g and 77gr FGMM work well in all 4, how much am I giving up not tailoring to each?

Given the social applications of a 12-inch AR-ish weapon, you want that one to go BANG and cycle EVERY time without fail. So thinking about the 6.5 Grendel, seems to me that getting ammo to function in the 12-inch gun will be harder than the other two barrel lengths. So load to the most picky (the 12-inch gun) and live with the consequences for the other guns in the same caliber.

You already thought about "shortest chamber". Keep in mind, if chambers vary a lot, ammo short enough for the shortest chamber may not function in the gun with the longest chamber. You may want to test that - look for light firing pin strikes.

You may end up using your ammo in a gun that you don't currently own. Make your ammo SAAMI or smaller.

Your ammo has to fit your shortest magazine.

Or, buy a reamer, pull out all the guns in a specific caliber and rebarrel all of them to the same chamber. That is what I did for 308. I make 308 ammo to one spec (spec is very similar to Federal gold medal match) and all 308s shoot it well to the same point of impact.

 

[Snuby642]

So, getting into the last group, how do you deal with them? I want one load for all three Grendels. I don't know if one load for all of the 5.56 is realistic.

On 223, I had one barrel out of five not within 0.0005 on the chamber, measured fired brass.

Quaranteed that bcg, swapped the other bolts around, (don't want to hear it) they were all gtg. It was the bolt, I replaced it.

Everything gets the same bump now.

As far as groups go, get an EC tuner brake and dial them in and be done with it.

SAAMI spec ammo. Lol

 

[Old Man with Gun]

So, getting into the last group, how do you deal with them? I want one load for all three Grendels. I don't know if one load for all of the 5.56 is realistic.

On 223, I had one barrel out of five not within 0.0005 on the chamber, measured fired brass.

Quaranteed that bcg, swapped the other bolts around, (don't want to hear it) they were all gtg. It was the bolt, I replaced it.

Everything gets the same bump now.

As far as groups go, get an EC tuner brake and dial them in and be done with it.

SAAMI spec ammo. Lol

I did come up with some loads I am happy with. My Grendel load is not hot, I went for accuracy and ended up with 29.4g of A2520 on Hornady 123g SST 2.245 @ 2434 from 18". I get 2536 from factory 123g ELD-M but factory ammo really flattened primers and I broke an extractor with it once. Load shoots a little better than factory match ammo in 2 of 3 rifles and same in 3rd.

My 5.56 load is 24.0g CFE223 on 77g SMK 2.254 @ 2669 from 20". I get 2614 from factory 77g FGMM. Shoots as well as FGMM in all rifles if I sort and weight brass. Mostly I load mixed brass and am still MOA or better in everything I own and friends rifles as well.

I think the trick is use a bullet that has a reputation for jump tolerance to start with, find an accurate charge across the 2 firearms you care most about and start with factory COAL. I use AR mags, so no chance to play with longer COAL. I tried to replicate FGMM, I found faster accuracy spots, but they were not consistent across multiple rifles.

I did decide to develop a 75g ELD-M .223 load for my Tikka, but that is mostly because it uses AI mags and I could COAL 2.435 jump 0.010, get a better BC and use a higher velocitiy node for distance. I am getting 2822 from the 75g ELD-M load and only got 2623 from my 77g SMK load.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I like accurate rifles and do some load development to hone them closer to my goals. But I do NOT attempt to develop the rifle's ultimate best grouping loads. That, for me, is a waste of ammunition, loading time, and bore life. If I can put them in a pattern that 'defeats the target', I'm in my zone.

When developing my 223's, I have 16" and 24" barrels. I develop a 75gr Speer Gold Dot load for the 24", and test them in the 16" rifles. If they defeat the target at 50-100yd, they're fine. The 75gr Gold Dot is match accurate, but has the terminal performance of a hunting round. I'm very glad I stocked up on them a year or two back; they are not very plentiful on the market these days. This load uses 23.5gr of Varget. I have shot the 24"/75gr combination in National Comp at 600yd. It worked.

I do not maintain enormous stocks of ammunition. That way, I don't need to worry about what I can't carry with me.

Greg

 

[welditforyou]

Hey guys, obviously I'm new here. I have just completed a reload of 5.56 on a ladder (I guess that's what you call it)
using Ramshot X-terminator and TAC. They are once fired from LC brass I bought from PSA in the ammo box back when it cost about 115 bucks for 420 rds in the can. When you buy manufactured ammo, is it neccessary to check all the dimensions? That should have been done by the people that make this stuff. Both the barrels and the ammo.
Don't beat me up for asking.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

On factory ammo, I've found some very rare issues with dimensions; but they are so rare that the time involved in checking them religiously is very nearly wasted. I've been fortunate enough that none of the issues I've had included serious hazard, and I've taken the remaining ammunition and broken it down for components.

Being new is no sin. Newer folks tend to get a bit possessed about dimensions and specs. Safety first is a valuable phrase. Perfection only exists for a moment, then things change. I sought perfection for years and years, but it was a futile pursuit; things always change.

Close enough is close enough. That is a phrase more common to older folks. Listen to your own experience; if it lies to you, you're hopeless.

Your first reloading projects are essential; if no more than for the purpose of getting past those new folk errors, and to serve as an example of what not to do. We all do it. Looking back can demonstrate to one just how far they're come since then. It you still have two hands and ten fingers by then, you've found a good use for your time.

The most important lessons I've learned about reloading are the ones about knowing just how good I really need my stuff to be, and what's better left over there on that shelf marked "excessive". Reloading can become a very demanding task, and if it does, that's a good time to reexamine your actual needs, and to pick a few excessive steps to eliminate from your process. In the end, all you really need to do is to hit the target, and not actually ding it dead center. More than that may not be needed for your own individual purposes. When choosing steps to eliminate, it usually pays to start with the most costly ones; and money's not the whole thing, time is important, too.

Greg

 

[welditforyou]

Well . . . I don't believe that I'm hopeless so I guess I'm good there.
I hope that I'm not the only one to observe this, but, that ammo that was purchased from PSA
in the 420rd can would hit a silhouette target but that's about all. There was no precision in it
whatsoever. I suppose it couldv'e been the fact that none of my barrels were broke in.
Still would expect a little tighter group. That to could've been me.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Barrels are perfectly capable of breaking themselves in during the process of normal usage. I used to do it, but I then realized that the main thing I was accomplishing was to waste bore life.

Getting down to basics, GI Ammo is intended to keep other folks from shooting at you. If it does, it's served its purpose perfectly. I'm no Sniper, never was, not likely to change now, either. Snipers need better than USGI ammo, most of the rest of us don't have such needs. Hunters need something in between.

After several decades of competitive shooting behind me, I've concluded it's mainly one of the more expensive ways to compare dick length. Some need that, I no longer do; perhaps I've learned something in that process. Chasing the smallest group is how I started out, shooting benchrest; probably the very most expensive way to do the above.

Some time back, I used to ridicule the Russians for their shoddier approach to gear and such, but their (Stalin's) philosophy of "Quantity has a quality of its own" finally made sense. There could come that day when "if it goes bang, it's good" actually gits 'er done.

All of the ways to shoot are the best way, for those who like them. These days, I need to stay within my limited means and set my expectations accordingly. Others need something different; and as long as they like that, fine with me.

I have some of that Federal 62gr myself. If I ever need a combat load, that's mine; and I'll regret losing the brass. If I last longer than that much ammo, it did its job.

Until then it's one of the loads I'd rather buy than handload; different stuff for different uses. But I also make my own ammo for my Garand; I want to trust that rifle to my own mistakes, and not those of some MilSurp supplier. IMHO 9mm is too cheap to buy than to handload.

You'll probably find similar values as you progress, but they'll be yours and more appropriate to your needs.

Greg

 

[powerspc]

Barrels are perfectly capable of breaking themselves in during the process of normal usage. I used to do it, but I then realized that the main thing I was accomplishing was to waste bore life.

Getting down to basics, GI Ammo is intended to keep other folks from shooting at you. If it does, it's served its purpose perfectly. I'm no Sniper, never was, not likely to change now, either. Snipers need better than USGI ammo, most of the rest of us don't have such needs. Hunters need something in between.

After several decades of competitive shooting behind me, I've concluded it's mainly one of the more expensive ways to compare dick length. Some need that, I no longer do; perhaps I've learned something in that process. Chasing the smallest group is how I started out, shooting benchrest; probably the very most expensive way to do the above.

Some time back, I used to ridicule the Russians for their shoddier approach to gear and such, but their (Stalin's) philosophy of "Quantity has a quality of its own" finally made sense. There could come that day when "if it goes bang, it's good" actually gits 'er done.

All of the ways to shoot are the best way, for those who like it. These days, I need to stay within my limited means and set my expectations accordingly. Others need something different; and as long as they like that, fine with me.

I have some of that Federal 62gr myself. If I ever need a combat load, that's mine; and I'll regret losing the brass. If I live longer than that much ammo, it did its job.

Until then it's one of the loads I'd rather buy than handload; different stuff for different uses. But I also make my own ammo for my Garand; I want to trust that rifle to my own mistakes, and not those of some MilSurp supplier. IMHO 9mm is too cheap to buy than to handload.

You'll probably find similar values as you progress, but they'll be yours and more appropriate to your needs.

Greg

Nicely said. Perfect is the Enemy of Good.