I have never actually reloaded and am looking to start. I have a rcbs beam scale, rcbs trickler, and redding die set with micrometer. I will be reloading for 300 win mag, 22-250, 270, and 30-06. I have done alot of research on presses and am set on a Forster Co-ax, Redding Big Boss, or RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme. As far as I can tell, the Co-ax seems to reload the best with minimal runout issues. My only concern is I have read that some of micrometer dies (300 win mag) don't clear the yoke on the handle and bullet pulling can be a pain. I need some solid information and input from someone who knows reloading. Is the Co-ax really worth the money? Will it reload more acurate ammo than the other presses mentioned? Will I have clearance issues with my 300 win mag micrometer dies? I don't want to regret my most important purchase of a reloading press. Thanks for all of your help.
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Reloading Press questions.
- Thread starter dan25
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I had a Forster and got rid of it for that very reason.
Get the Redding. Runout depends more on individual case issues than on the press.
Get the Redding. Runout depends more on individual case issues than on the press.
I've never used the co-ax press, so I can't speak to that. RCBS Rockchucker has worked for me for more than 30 years. Barring something made of aluminum or pot-metal, I don't think that the press has nearly as much to do with accuracy as good case prep (consistent length, weight and necks) and with good dies. I shoot varmint guns more than anything, but even without case sorting, all mine were 1/2 moa or better: .22-250 in .3s, .223 in the .2-.3s and .204 in the .1-.2s
Don't use micrometer seaters for the longer cartridges. It's that simple. You'd be amazed at how well your ammo shoots when you sat your bullets with the good ol' screw ad nut.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
I'm sure the redding micro 300wm die will clear the Forster. All the presses you mentioned will do fine. I honestly don't recommend the Forster to start on, if your sizing needs get rough, you'll cringe when your die bottom comes in contact with those scrawny jaws, and you start hearing them pop, so good to have a separate press with some beef to start with.
I don't agree with George, with new brass, or once fired out of your chamber, with quality gear, and paying attention to what actually needs to be done, you'll be loading match grade ammo right out of the chute. I'm not going to say you wont falter after a few loadings, by not knowing what to look for, or what can happen. But with books, and this forum, you will be able to anticipate what can go wrong if you're not following the correct practices.
I don't agree with George, with new brass, or once fired out of your chamber, with quality gear, and paying attention to what actually needs to be done, you'll be loading match grade ammo right out of the chute. I'm not going to say you wont falter after a few loadings, by not knowing what to look for, or what can happen. But with books, and this forum, you will be able to anticipate what can go wrong if you're not following the correct practices.
I use a Co-Ax and haven't had any issues with it. I use a hornady bullet puller in it, and micrometer dies. Plenty of clearance. I don't cam over when seating, and don't see a need to either. If a bullet is that hard to seat, you have bigger problems.
I don't own a 223. I have the calibers I listed in the first post. I am not claiming to say I know anything about reloading yet, I just want to buy a good press that I can reload accurate ammo for my gun. If a co-ax or a redding press will both produce the same results; that's what I need to know. I am looking for good quality advice, not some bullshit opinions.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
There is nothing wrong with starting out loading the calibers you currently have. If you can size, trim, prime, powder, and put a bullet in a .223 easily, than you can do the same thing with any rifle caliber. Buy a manual or two...or five, pick a load, work it up through the load spectrum, and there you go!!
Loading isn't rocket science. Read the manuals, measure, measure, and measure everything, and get to loading. For you 1st load stick to manual loads and don't go off of what the random dude on the internet listed as the best load for a cartridge.
Loading isn't rocket science. Read the manuals, measure, measure, and measure everything, and get to loading. For you 1st load stick to manual loads and don't go off of what the random dude on the internet listed as the best load for a cartridge.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
M
milo 2.0
Guest
I have one too, but am not biased. You just mentioned camming over when seating, after I told the op camming over while sizing was kinda taboo.
Get a redding or rock chucker and you won't have to worry about your dies not working.Buy as much reloading info as you can afford and read it twice and you will be a fine reloader.We all started somewhere and learned as we go.Happy Loading
i have a co-ax and a big boss II
and they both work well for 300 win mag
i load .338LM as well on both.
here is a pic with a micro seater in the co-ax and a 300 win mag case and bullet. the handle is straight up on the press with the least amount of room at that point it clears with no problem.
and they both work well for 300 win mag
i load .338LM as well on both.
here is a pic with a micro seater in the co-ax and a 300 win mag case and bullet. the handle is straight up on the press with the least amount of room at that point it clears with no problem.
I can't answer your question about the Co-ax, but I see no problem loading for the cartridges you listed. The belt on the 300 Winchester, or any other belted case, confuses a lot of people. Read about adjusting your sizing die to make the case headspace on the shoulder, and the belt becomes the useless appendage that it really is.
About the Co-ax, I have heard, but really don't know, that the yoke on the newer presses has been modified to accept the taller dies. Hang around, I'm sure someone here has the exact experience you are looking for. Lightman
About the Co-ax, I have heard, but really don't know, that the yoke on the newer presses has been modified to accept the taller dies. Hang around, I'm sure someone here has the exact experience you are looking for. Lightman
I love my Forster Co-Ax. It is simple to use and my .308 Ammunition is BETTER than Federal old Medal Match.
I tried the Forster, and while it is a good press, it doesn't work for me. It may clear the micrometer, but I also like to use an indicator dial for shoulder bump and bullet seating depth, which does not clear. Did you take a look at the Redding T7? That is what I use.
It seems like there are/is a click on SH that raves about the co-ax press, but as far as I can see, it's no better or worse than the others mentioned. Personally, I use a RockChucker and RCBS Ammo-master and would recommend either for someone starting out with 300WM.
And, put me down as another who disagrees with George. Handloading is handloading, and I fail to see the logic in starting out with a cartridge you don't have a gun for, in that caliber? No offense, George; maybe I'm missing something? Is it better because it's smaller or more available or cheaper, or it's likely to be used in a AR type platform....or what? BB
edit: "more forgiving" not so much when you hit max. A couple tenths more and you will blow primers. Just personal opinion, you know, everyone's got one.
And, put me down as another who disagrees with George. Handloading is handloading, and I fail to see the logic in starting out with a cartridge you don't have a gun for, in that caliber? No offense, George; maybe I'm missing something? Is it better because it's smaller or more available or cheaper, or it's likely to be used in a AR type platform....or what? BB
edit: "more forgiving" not so much when you hit max. A couple tenths more and you will blow primers. Just personal opinion, you know, everyone's got one.
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Not at all sure why you'd suggest this. 223 is just as hard if not more a pain in the ass than most of the cals the OP listed with extreme powders, they block in the little neck and of course you have the possibility of dealing with primer crimps.
I also have a bunch of presses the Co-ax is one of them. I load with micrometer dies from Redding, Forster and Whidden on mag cartridges. The handle will clear, but not on the long drop in bullet feeding dies. Long bullets in mags using the seating dies with guide sleeves such as mentioned above, need to be tipped into the die opening, but that is really easy due to the shell holding design.
Bullet pulling is better on a standard press. But the ease of changing dies, makes the Co-ax almost as fast turret press and caliber changes faster.
Attached is a Co-ax on a strong mount, with the seating die. The strong mount is very nice, as is the light.
Jt
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I like how you mounted your presses to the table. Can you explain that more? Where did you get the materials?
It looks like a specialized table with a built in rail system, ways, kind of like you have on a Bridgeport mill. Otherwise, I can see no benefit in lugging the presses down, unless you happen to own a bench like that? BB
I have both the coax and Redding t7. Both are fine presses. No run out issues with either design. Both have strengths. Both can load match quality ammo.
I was in the same place you are 2 years ago when I started reloading. I bought and read 4-5 books as well as cruising these threads. I started with a rock chucker and have been happy with it. Either press will be just fine. My first reload was a 300WSM. I just started with the book specs then after many sacrificial pieces of brass I got more gear like headspace gauge, upgraded trimmer, and a brass prep center then was able to start reloading more precise ammo.
I love the hobby, it does take a bunch of concentration but once you start understanding the basics and mechanics behind it you will really appreciate the work you put into making your on ammo and especially when you start shooting one hole groups or your first deer with ammo you built.
By the way I also reload for my AR and while it's much cheaper I find they are more of a pain to reload than my 300.
I love the hobby, it does take a bunch of concentration but once you start understanding the basics and mechanics behind it you will really appreciate the work you put into making your on ammo and especially when you start shooting one hole groups or your first deer with ammo you built.
By the way I also reload for my AR and while it's much cheaper I find they are more of a pain to reload than my 300.
