I just recently bought Remington 700 adl chambered in .308 and my shot are all over the place. Was told it just needs to be shot more until it “breaks in”. Well this morning I realized there are actual break in methods online like how frequently to clean the barrel after each shot. Some even saying clean it before you shoot it the first time. I didn’t know this until this morning and I’ve already had it for almost a month. If I’ve ran 50 rounds through it already is it too late to do a “break in procedure” and it be effective? This is my first bolt action I’ve ever bought brand new so I’m not really familiar with getting it started from the box
PRS Talk Rem 700 break in
- Thread starter NickoGTX
- Start date
Just clean it and go shoot. Get the Rifles Only training dvd's. Do your research on here and have fun.
I wouldn’t worry about doing a “break in” procedure. What is you definition of shots “all over the place? I’m not going to try to pretend to know you, but if you’re new to shooting precision rifles, I would recommend doing a metric ton of dry fire, focusing on the fundamentals. No offense, as the same goes for all of us, but YOU are the biggest variable in your shooting.
When I say my shots are all over the place I mean that there really is no grouping for me to be able to tell what scope adjustments I need to make to dial in my scope. Very inconsistent where I’ll maybe get lucky and land a couple shot right on each other or I’ll get 2 shots on direct opposite sides of the target. I’ll just keep shooting, lighten up my trigger, keep it clean and put it on a new stock and hopefully I’ll start getting a feel for my new rifle and get it dialed in. Thanks everyone
Clean it thoroughly like @PAYDIRT said.
Check the torque on the action bolts and the scope rings. Even a crap factory rifle ought to shoot 2” groups of 3 or 5.
After reading two prominent gun makers as well as my own gunsmith agree that “barrel break in” is not needed in modern barrels made using modern technology, I’ve decided it’s not needed and probably a waste of time. Just don’t shoot it hot.
I will get some heated arguments here on The Hide for that statement. But there you go.
Check the torque on the action bolts and the scope rings. Even a crap factory rifle ought to shoot 2” groups of 3 or 5.
After reading two prominent gun makers as well as my own gunsmith agree that “barrel break in” is not needed in modern barrels made using modern technology, I’ve decided it’s not needed and probably a waste of time. Just don’t shoot it hot.
I will get some heated arguments here on The Hide for that statement. But there you go.
Ignore all the break in procedures posted online. Clean barrel when it’s new (to get any oils and such from machining). And go shoot it with your normal cleaning routine.
With 50 on it already, just clean it down to where it’s close to new clean, and just go shoot it.
Unless you got a bad barrel, it likely just doesn’t like the ammo you are running. Or you have fundamental errors.
With 50 on it already, just clean it down to where it’s close to new clean, and just go shoot it.
Unless you got a bad barrel, it likely just doesn’t like the ammo you are running. Or you have fundamental errors.
I agree with everyone above who says to just go shoot it. All the shoot once, clean, shoot twice, clean etc is waste of time.
I will give two pieces of advice about a Remington ADL. The plastic stocks are super lightweight and pretty flexible. Even a nice Boyds stock for $150 will add some much needed weight and be rigid enough to ensure your barrel is free floated.
Second, I will echo this
Put about another 50 down the pipe and then shoot some quality match ammo through it.
also, make sure the action screws, and and scope mounting hardware is all tight still.
I will give two pieces of advice about a Remington ADL. The plastic stocks are super lightweight and pretty flexible. Even a nice Boyds stock for $150 will add some much needed weight and be rigid enough to ensure your barrel is free floated.
Second, I will echo this
Put about another 50 down the pipe and then shoot some quality match ammo through it.
also, make sure the action screws, and and scope mounting hardware is all tight still.
The time, ammo, and gas I have wasted over a bad scope mount is embarrassing. Everything from a loose ring to a bad rail. I’ve even sent back my sightron over a non-true raiser on an AR. Triple check everything and try another optic before you doubt the rifle.
You need to find someone local that is familiar with your rifle model. 50 rounds is not bad as barrel break-in is more of a "life thing to do" for older precision shooters. Not "breaking in" a barrel will not be the "make it or break it" of the barrel life as "breaking in the barrel just tries to smooth out the burrs from barrel creation, thus providing a smoother path for the bullet through the barrel. Clean it well, carbon and copper removers, dry patch completely clean. I would do 10 or 20 rounds and repeat process. Maybe Smooth-Kote the barrel if you wish. Now have someone else check over and shoot your rifle for accuracy as any number of shooter errors or weapon/scope issues can occur. IF ALL ELSE FAILS, send it to me for the next year for evaluation and I'll let you know what I figure out...
We’ve got a lot of unknown variables so far. We know it’s a R700 .308 ADL and don’t know anything else.
What ammo
What scooe
What base
What rings
Have you checked to make sure the action screws are set to torque? Is the scope base tight to the receiver? Are the rings tight to the lugs on the scope mount (pushed forward as they were torqued to spec)? Are the ring cap screws torqued properly?
Who set up the scope? Did you do it or was it the counter guy at Cabela’s?
Are you shooting the same ammo with every shot? You’d be surprised at the number of people who have a “Bag-‘O’-Ammo” that’s made up of a bit of everything. A mix of M80 ball, soft point hunting rounds, and some reloads they got from their cousin. Is it good match grade ammo you’re shooting?
Don’t worry about the crazy ritualistic break-in procedures you’ve seen online. Most of them are crap.
What ammo
What scooe
What base
What rings
Have you checked to make sure the action screws are set to torque? Is the scope base tight to the receiver? Are the rings tight to the lugs on the scope mount (pushed forward as they were torqued to spec)? Are the ring cap screws torqued properly?
Who set up the scope? Did you do it or was it the counter guy at Cabela’s?
Are you shooting the same ammo with every shot? You’d be surprised at the number of people who have a “Bag-‘O’-Ammo” that’s made up of a bit of everything. A mix of M80 ball, soft point hunting rounds, and some reloads they got from their cousin. Is it good match grade ammo you’re shooting?
Don’t worry about the crazy ritualistic break-in procedures you’ve seen online. Most of them are crap.
Lots of good advice already, and we're all dealing with a lack of familiarity with your rifle, but here are some thoughts:
1. did you mount the scope yourself or was it professionally done? If yourself, re-check the torque on the screws. You should know what torque values the manufacturer of the base, the rings and the scope all call for, and make sure you've got that. Loose rings make it impossible to shoot consistent groups.
2. Check the torque on the action screws. Make sure you have them torqued to what is called out for the rifle/stock in question.
3. Check to see if your barrel is floating, or if it's touching your stock somewhere. Touching on one side could make it change point of impact as the barrel heats up.
4. Tell us a little about the ammo you're shooting -- have you had good results with it in other rifles, or is it a total unknown? If it's a total unknown, consider shooting some ammo that you know is capable of grouping.
5. If all this does nothing to get your rifle to group (and a new Rem 700 should shoot inside 2" at 100 yards with little tweaking), look into getting someone else to give it a few shots. Someone who you know shoots well, of course. As someone has already said, YOU are probably the biggest variable in your shooting and you might want to get a mentor or coach to advise you.
And by all means, keep us informed of what you learn and how it goes.
1. did you mount the scope yourself or was it professionally done? If yourself, re-check the torque on the screws. You should know what torque values the manufacturer of the base, the rings and the scope all call for, and make sure you've got that. Loose rings make it impossible to shoot consistent groups.
2. Check the torque on the action screws. Make sure you have them torqued to what is called out for the rifle/stock in question.
3. Check to see if your barrel is floating, or if it's touching your stock somewhere. Touching on one side could make it change point of impact as the barrel heats up.
4. Tell us a little about the ammo you're shooting -- have you had good results with it in other rifles, or is it a total unknown? If it's a total unknown, consider shooting some ammo that you know is capable of grouping.
5. If all this does nothing to get your rifle to group (and a new Rem 700 should shoot inside 2" at 100 yards with little tweaking), look into getting someone else to give it a few shots. Someone who you know shoots well, of course. As someone has already said, YOU are probably the biggest variable in your shooting and you might want to get a mentor or coach to advise you.
And by all means, keep us informed of what you learn and how it goes.
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