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Remage Prefit and Piercing Primers

Hobo_Steve

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 24, 2017
36
1
Missouri
Needing some advice. Story goes like this: I tore down a Remington 700 chambered in 243 with no more than five boxes put through it wanting to build a competition rifle chambered in 6mm creed. Teardown went great and assembly went equally as good. First ammo I put through it was some Hornady eld-m with no problems. I bought a couple cases of Norma Golden Target, shot a couple boxes with no problems and some pretty good groups. All was good until I had a “click” and no boom. Recocked the firing pin and another click. Pulled the round and saw a light primer strike. Didn’t think anything of it, chambered another round and another click but this time no strike at all. Looking into it I found several fired brass that had “inverted primer strikes” by that I mean they were not a crater but a dimple like they flowed into the firing pin hole. Also found one that had a perfect circle cut out of it which I found inside my bolt assembly along with a bent firing pin. I figured that my pin failed somehow and caused all this and went on a search for a new one. I decided to purchase an entire assembly from PTG instead. All was good except for the first half box and then the same problem came back along with the problem that when you run the bolt home with any haste the firing pin will fall with the bolt handle when closing unless the safety is on. Now, before I get hammered about Remington’s trigger problem this is not the factory trigger but rather a Triggertech although the same thing happens with the factory trigger and a jewel from another rifle. I called PTG and they said they “knew what the problem was” and would send another bolt. Got the second new bolt still acts the same but now it also drags on the sides of the slot in the receiver that the bottom of the cocking piece slides through. My factory trigger has a small window where you can see the sear engagement with another piece and when you run the bolt home too hard you can see that the sear slides past that piece and the pin will fall as the bolt closes. If when they disengage from one another you back the bolt up ever so slightly they reset and the group functions as normal. I’ll up load any pics needed and can measure anything to the best of my ability this one is Messi no with my head and needing a little directional input. Thank you all in advance!
 
Sounds like you should have the bolt face bushed. Lots of guys had to do this with the multi caliber rifles when switching from 308 to 6.5 CM and also with 6 CM. LRI does good work.


Should only need it done if using small rifle primers. You don’t need it going from .308 to 6.5 or 6 creed if they are using large rifle primer brass.

OP did you use go/no go gauges when installing the new barrel? Maybe check it again that nothing moved. If it is that trigger and bolt issue then you might have to send it out to someone to get it checked. Did you pull the firing pin out and make sure it is fine and the tip wasn’t broken from the issue with the one round?

Also a little flowed primer is not something to worry about. Almost normal with factory Rems and certain primers.
 
Should only need it done if using small rifle primers. You don’t need it going from .308 to 6.5 or 6 creed if they are using large rifle primer brass.
I’ve heard this as well. I’ve also heard that it helps even with large rifle primers. Perhaps in the process headspace always gets checked as well?

OP, it just occurred to me, but if I were buying a bolt replacement I would certainly look at Mack Brothers before dealing with PTG.

Good luck and please let us know what ends up solving the issue.
 
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I'm thinking this rifle had excessive headspace when he installed the Remage barrel (and that the Remage barrel was a barrel nut install). That would have caused the light strikes and probably caused the pierced primer. The excessive headspace caused insufficient contact with the breechface and primer, the primer ignited but the insufficiently supported case head caused the pierced primer, which then trashed the firing pin. It also sounds like the OP never checked the headspace, either with the original bolt or with the replacement PTG bolts. In a Rem 700 tolerances varied widely across the years of production, so headspace from one action to another isn't consistent, that's why gunsmiths can't make a prefit barrel for the Rem 700.

The striker slipping off the sear and going forward is a different issue which might have everything to do with the PTG bolt assembly. Recent years have seen more complaints on this forum about PTG than about almost any other company, most knowledgeable people would say stay away from PTG. Lots of people on this forum use Triggertech triggers including me and lots of us have never had an issue with the striker falling when the bolt is run hard. That's a serious safety hazard which has to be fixed.
 
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Thank you to all the replies. To answer some questions. The rifle has never had excessive head space and I’m pretty meticulous when it comes to that being I have a small explosion going off in front of my face. I’ve spoken with the people who spun the barrel and they said that “it just doesn’t like that ammo” which I understand a barrel not liking ammo and throwing poor groups but I wouldn’t think this problem should ever come from factory ammo. He also said that my go no go’s may be held at too tight of tolerance vs saami spec. He suggested that I increase headspace and see if that solves the problem which I did. I went from close on go with “feel” to bolt falling on go but not on the no go. And before someone asks, yes I did pull the firing pin assembly and the ejector and spring prior to setting headspace. I wasn’t aware of PTG’s poor reputation and def would have steered clear had I known. I have not tried the factory bolt firing pin configuration to see if it corrects my pin falling issue. Thanks for all the input! I’ll try the old bolt and pin tonight and see what we’ve got.