Remington 700 build: I don't know what I'm doing.

T

Thebelly

L R Newb
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 29, 2013
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2
#1
Without knowing anything, I bought a Remington 700ADL SA and wanted to start building it up.

I also bought a bell and Carlson stock so that I could get better accuracy, rather than the pos flexi-plastic stock it came with.

I need the magazine part, in some way shape or form. I don't know what I'm supposed to be buying to finish this thing.

All I have right now is the Remington 700 action and the bell and Carlson stock.

Sorry if this gets answered 500 times a week, but my 'google-fu' is weak.
 
#2
Without saying what your ultimate goal is it's hard to tell you anything.

I'm not sure what "magazine part" you're talking about? A DBM perhaps?

Not sure what B&C stock you have...so, is it already inletted for a DBM or is it set for the factory Rem BDL bottom metal?
 
#3
thrusty said:
Without saying what your ultimate goal is it's hard to tell you anything.

I'm not sure what "magazine part" you're talking about? A DBM perhaps?

Not sure what B&C stock you have...so, is it already inletted for a DBM or is it set for the factory Rem BDL bottom metal?
Click to expand...

I would like to shoot animals from about 400-500yds away. I want to keep the weight down because I will have to walk in and walk out.

I don't know if my stock is already set for DBM (looked it up, so now I know what that means) or for BDL (no ideas here). Here's some pictures I just took. Please excuse my toes if they show up in any pictures.

Here's the gun taken apart. This is the bell and Carlson stock, not the factory stock.

6223d0cf6cbcb113b1074c44f28332f9_zpsfd5219f7.jpg




Here's a closer view of the stock

08db0ce06498fa23f4ab428f5c7b37a2_zpsadd1d1e9.jpg




Bottom and top views of the stock
effa0f956a7b9b301149d461c96dbd2e_zps17f0754c.jpg

3518b658bd6a8c6d1e949676701c4043_zps7b690da1.jpg


Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'm trying to learn the terms and concepts specific to bolt action, but this is my first attempt at it.
 
#4
Hi TB.

The rifle you have is still altogether and shootable ?

My advise is to put a scope on it and learn to shoot on it read the threads on here and ask lots of questions as you learn to shoot you will also learn how you would like your rifle set up.
 
#6
dbateman said:
Hi TB.

The rifle you have is still altogether and shootable ?

My advise is to put a scope on it and learn to shoot on it read the threads on here and ask lots of questions as you learn to shoot you will also learn how you would like your rifle set up.
Click to expand...

That's very good advice. Thank you. The factory gun shoots 2.5-3" groups at 100 yards. There is no REAL hard anchoring point in the factory stock.
 
#7
To start with you need a BDL floor plate like this one Remington 700 BDL Trigger Guard Floorplate | eBay

Make sure you pay attention to Long action or Short action and get the one that matches your rifle (Short Action)

Once you have that you should be able to put the rifle together on you new stock.

For reference, the major difference between an ADL and a BDL is the ADL has a blind magazine and the BDL has the hinged floor plate.

The next step is bedding the rifle. This is not for the rank beginner. But you dont have to do this right away.

It is also a good idea to get a feeling for the group size BEFORE you bed the rifle and then after.
 
#8
Caliber? As for bottom metal, you can pick it up here used, I have found what I needed here on the Hide in the for sale area. Or Brownells and Pacific Tool and Gage has bottom meta. You can keep your internal leaf spring and maybe the box magazine. I have found that dependant on caliber so you might need a new little square metal thingy -magazine box.

There is not enough information in the post to help you with scope mounts etc. The next thing you will need is a new trigger. Timney Triggers can get you going in the right direction. If your Remington is older, you may be able to have a competent smith adjust the trigger to under 3lbs. If it is a new X mark, in my experience, save it as a spare and go Timney or Jewell.
 
#10
George Az said:
Caliber? ......

......There is not enough information in the post to help you with scope mounts etc.
Click to expand...

This is in .243. It did fine when I was growing up, so it should still do fine for most medium game that I would see here on planet earth (white tail, speed goat, hogs, all from a distance). Also, I'm a sissy about recoil.

I have no idea about mounting solutions, as far as how to mount the rings onto the gun. So, I need a scope rail, I guess.

I've got the rings and scope figured out and purchased. I have Trijicon rings and a Bushnell 6-24x50 with the tree reticle in it. I've had it on other rifles, and it works pretty well. This combo holds zero, so I guess I can't ask for much more.
 
#12
i am in a similar predicament, I have a SPS AAC-SD in 308 with a B&C A5 tactical which improved groups greatly but now want to add a DPM. Will I need to inlet the stock for the trigger guard or will it fit the bottom plate without modification. Looking at the Surgeon Trigger Guard with AI mags.
 
#13
KingE said:
i am in a similar predicament, I have a SPS AAC-SD in 308 with a B&C A5 tactical which improved groups greatly but now want to add a DPM. Will I need to inlet the stock for the trigger guard or will it fit the bottom plate without modification. Looking at the Surgeon Trigger Guard with AI mags.
Click to expand...

I would call the nice folks at cdi, they will inlet their bottoms on about ny rifle and are wsuper to deal with.
 
#15
#16
Im not sure but it looks like the Bell and Carlson stock you have is set up for a varmint barrel. It looks list you have a standard barrel. I could be wrong. Just an observation.
 
#17
knighthawk001 said:
Im not sure but it looks like the Bell and Carlson stock you have is set up for a varmint barrel. It looks list you have a standard barrel. I could be wrong. Just an observation.
Click to expand...

So.. the barrel will sill be free-floated, right? I was under the impression that free floated was the goal. Plus, if I change to a heavier barrel, can't I just take a dowel with some sanding paper to ensure the barrel is free floated?
 
#18
Well, first, you've decided that your primary foucs for this rifle is 400 yards + killing of animals. I'm going to venture a guess that we're talking prarie dogs or coyotes, both relatively small targets at that distance.

My recommendation is to get the bottom metal you need. Have a gunsmith to a bedding job. And purchase a quality optic and rings.

Next, since your saying the rifle groups about 2.5 - 3.0 moa, your definatly going to have to work on your marksmanship fundimentals if you want to have a chance at effectively hitting such a small target at those distances.

I suggest to start browsing or doing a site search on here and just read about precision shooting fundimentals before taking your gun out to the bench. Then practice at 100 yards with quality ammo and see what you can do to get those groups down to about 1" or less at the 100 yard target.

If you can get there then you can start working on getting your scope "dope" and learning how to judge distance and windage. If you want to hit those 400 yard shots then you need to practice at that distance.

The farther out you get, the more important your fundimentals will become. You want to correctly pull the trigger the same way, every time. You want to learn how to lay prone if your shooting from a bipod and sandbag. You'll want to learn how to correctly load your bi-pod every time...ect. Just a slight change in your funidmentals will completly throw a group or shot off.

I'm not trying to have the longest post here, but as somebody who started out knowing zilch about long distance precision shooting it took me a while to pick up on the correct fundimentals and even now if I dont practice, I start to slip back into old, bad habits.

Can't stress fundimentals enough.
 
#19
GDSasquatch: Thanks so much for the reminder about the fundamentals. I really believe that it's the original rifle stock not having the real hard points to ensure the accuracy I'm trying to get. I'm able to get sub-MOA out of other rifles (all semi-autos), but being so new to bolt guns I'm not sure how much difference it makes. Again, I'm new to bolt guns, so I'll make sure to get testing done at each stage of this project.
 
#21
Sinus211 said:
If you want to add a DBM to that stock you'll need to inlet for the 1 piece trigger guard/magwell assembly
Click to expand...

Inlet...... That's just a bolt gun specific way of saying, "cut out the stock so that you can fit it all together," right?

How much is too much? I don't want to screw up the new stock. It wasn't that expensive, but I'd rather not have to buy it again.
 
#22
Personally I would not use that B&C on a walk around rifle, especially a 700 sporter, I would not sell it but save it for a varmint barrel build later.

I bought the same rifle as a donor for a fast twist sub-7 lb build, it shot great even in the tupperware stock after I hogged out the stock to make sure the it didn't hit the barrel when it flexed during the shot. I later dropped it in a B&C Medalist I bought used, a sporter stock with the full bedding block but it's heavy and will be replaced down the road.

Good choice on the 243, the 9.125 twist should stabilize the 105 Amax.

As mentioned above, Youtube is your friend. I just watched a few of the videos and that series would be helpful.

Just search "budget precision" pt.1 as I have typed and change the 1 to a 2 and so on to quickly find the videos.

"Budget Precision" Pt.1 - Remington 700 Scope Base Installation - YouTube
 
#23
I found those videos from 8541 tactical. The ones where he was actually building the rifle made my brain melt. It can't really be that involved to put a gun in a new stock, can it?
 
#25
Its bulky, heavier, and just not as easy/comfortable to handle when on the move imo. To each their own I suppose. Personally I think for a hunting rifle the factory stock or one similar would do just fine for your needs.
 
#26
knighthawk001 said:
Its bulky, heavier, and just not as easy/comfortable to handle when on the move imo. To each their own I suppose. Personally I think for a hunting rifle the factory stock or one similar would do just fine for your needs.
Click to expand...

My concern is that the factory stock flexes so much that the accuracy suffers pretty badly. Cripes, I can flex the stock with my bare hands fairly easily.

I don't have a scale to weigh the two, but the B&C stock is heavier. However, I don't think it will be so much that its obtrusive.... Time will tell!
 
#27
The B&C stock may be a little heavier as stated but it will provide you with a much more solid platform. First rifle i built had this notorious hogue stock and at the time as a beginner i thought it was slick, total pos. In regards to the inlet process for the DBM, slow and steady wins the race. Cut/file just enough to give you a snug fit. Have you picked a specific DBM yet? First one i installed was a HS Precision, but it was into an HS Precision stock so very little filing was necessary to give the mag release room to smoothly operate. Good luck
 
#29
Jason5R said:
oHave you picked a specific DBM yet? First one i installed was a HS Precision, but it was into an HS Precision stock so very little filing was necessary to give the mag release room to smoothly operate. Good luck
Click to expand...

I'm going to use a BDL take off that a member here has sent me (I owe diver $40+shipping, or just the shipping and his BDL back if it won't work).

I hope it works....
 
#30
UPDATE:

The bottom metal that Diver sent me works very well. It's a good snug fit into the bottom of the stock: it won't fall out by itself, nor does it require a mallet to get it in there. Just some firm pressure and it slides right in. I'm having some technical difficulties in getting it to function, and Diver is being more than accomodating in helping me work through this.

How is the action supposed to fit into the stock? Is it supposed to be tight all the way around the action, or just at the bottom where the aluminum bedding material is at?

Any help would be most appreciated.
 
#31
The action should lay in the stock. At this point it should not be incredibly tight. Get a quality one piece scope base, EGW for a Short Action would work well. Then put everything together, and go shooting. I would advise that you purchase a bipod, but bags will do for now.
 
#32
The_Count said:
The action should lay in the stock. At this point it should not be incredibly tight. Get a quality one piece scope base, EGW for a Short Action would work well. Then put everything together, and go shooting. I would advise that you purchase a bipod, but bags will do for now.
Click to expand...

so, it should still be snug, but I shouldn't need to push it in there to get it to fit... I'll take some fine sand paper and smooth out the sides of the stock, checking often, never taking too much material out until I can get it to lay in there nice.

bipod... check. It's non-tilting, but it's securely mounted to the front stud on the stock.

scope base...check. someone in my local area had a one piece take off, and I did the 8541tactical bedding job from the video above.

The whole thing is coming together finally. I think the lightweight barrel will hinder me in the long run, but I'd like to see how this thing shoots in the new stock first.
 
#33
Does the torque on the screws provide enough friction/resistance/whatever to kepe them there? What are the thoughts on loc-tite? (I mean the lightweight stuff, maybe the blue?)

Again, thanks so much for the help in getting this thing built.
 
#34
Never had any trouble with stock screws if properly torqued and have never used LT on them. Might want to check them after a session or two, especally with a new install. I would definately shoot it a bit first too before I did any bedding job, if thats a Medalist stock with the aluminum block, you may not need it.

okie
 
#35
okiefired said:
Never had any trouble with stock screws if properly torqued and have never used LT on them. Might want to check them after a session or two, especally with a new install. I would definately shoot it a bit first too before I did any bedding job, if thats a Medalist stock with the aluminum block, you may not need it.

okie
Click to expand...

I'm assuming htis is along the same lines as what you'd do to a car wheel after it gets rotated: let it settle and stretch and what-not then re torque the lugs... How many rounds would you fire to get everything settled? This rifle is chambered in .243, if that matters.
 
#36
Sounds like you have a good running start at getting to where you want to be and you can get a lot of help from the folks here.

As an alternative I think Hunt4life and dbateman have it about right...... ugh, did I really just agree with an Aussie????

Having been down this road I would offer a couple of thoughts:
1. I learned a lot from doing much of the work myself.
2. If my primary goal was to learn about all the options and what worked for others then I was on the right path. If my goal was to become a better long range shooter then my efforts were misplaced. I recently went back over and looked all my costs for my recent build and it was not much different than if I had just gone to a good smith and had them build one. Better yet, I could have bought a great used rifle at a great price from someone here on the Hide and been ahead. I could have had more money to actually get behind the trigger and shoot. Cant say it was a complete loss by taking the 'do it yourself' route but I would sure do it differently if I were to do it again. I would have stayed with my stock set up and bought the best optics I could afford and just shoot. If I was not getting the performance I was looking for I would ask a smith to go over my rifle and its set up. If I was getting good performance I would shoot the barrel out of it. LR is different than the 200-300 yd varmint shots I grew up taking

Not saying your approach is wrong or wont get you to where you want to be. For me, however, those that gave me the advice to shoot, shoot, shoot were right and thats where I should have put my money. Have fun and enjoy the journey.
 
#37
Pester said:
Sounds like you have a good running start at getting to where you want to be and you can get a lot of help from the folks here.
.
.
.
.
Having been down this road I would offer a couple of thoughts:
1. I learned a lot from doing much of the work myself.
2. If my primary goal was to learn about all the options and what worked for others then I was on the right path.
Click to expand...



Once I learn to get out of my own way, then I'll probably learn so much faster!


I'm really enjoying this process. I'm getting a lot out of this project by going from start to finish. I've primarily used AR15-pattern rifles, and this is my first venture into the land of bolt guns. I really enjoy the learning process, but I'm a visual learner. That makes it very difficult to teach me because it almost requires someone to show me the first time.

I feel fairly confident that I can hit what I'm shooting at out to about 500 with a pretty high degree of success. This, of course, is on IPSC sized targets. Getting a clean and ethical harvest of a critter at those distances is something different entirely.
 
Last edited:
#38
I just completed the same build you are doing.

Took a 700 adl, put it in a choate stock, bought the PTG detachable box mag. I did have to do a lot of filing and ended up using a drill press with a router bit to take out some of the aluminum block. But it fits great and it feeds great.

I have not replaced the barrel yet. I may end up doing that one but i will have to have a pro do that.

I added a steel egw base and tps rings. I got a crappy scope but that will hopefully be replaced by a leupold mark 4 8-25x50 soon. When that happens I will see if it shoot sub moa. The one thing i dont like about the barrel is it gets really hot after 3 shots.
 
#39
In case you haven't gotten this together yet and are wondering what's wrong, looking through the posts above I see no mention of the mag box and action bolts. You need a BDL mag box with follower (the ADL one in your picture above will be too tall for it to all fit together) and you'll need a front action bolt for a BDL
On the mag box again pay attention to short action & long action, you need short
 
#40
GrantA said:
In case you haven't gotten this together yet and are wondering what's wrong, looking through the posts above I see no mention of the mag box and action bolts. You need a BDL mag box with follower (the ADL one in your picture above will be too tall for it to all fit together) and you'll need a front action bolt for a BDL
On the mag box again pay attention to short action & long action, you need short
Click to expand...

Diver sent me bolts with his BDL take-off, and I did notice that the ADL mag box is approx 1/4" longer than the one from the BDL. I really appreciate everyone's help with this!

I just haven't dedicated the time to getting this rifle together completely. I think I'm waiting on another part, but I can't be sure. I'll re-inventory everything tomorrow after work just to check.
 
#41
Bm22 said:
I just completed the same build you are doing.

Took a 700 adl, put it in a choate stock, bought the PTG detachable box mag. I did have to do a lot of filing and ended up using a drill press with a router bit to take out some of the aluminum block. But it fits great and it feeds great.

I have not replaced the barrel yet. I may end up doing that one but i will have to have a pro do that.

I added a steel egw base and tps rings. I got a crappy scope but that will hopefully be replaced by a leupold mark 4 8-25x50 soon. When that happens I will see if it shoot sub moa. The one thing i dont like about the barrel is it gets really hot after 3 shots.
Click to expand...

Right now my barrel has the factory ADL barrel, and it's got a pretty thin profile. Since my primary use is for hunting, I'm not worried about the barrel heating up because I think the rifle will get shot just a hand FIL of times every year. If I end up liking it more and then shooting it enough for the barrel weight to be a factor, I may re-barrel it to a heavier profile.

Right now, I like the barrel for the weight savings.
 
#42
When I get serious about learning practical shooting for long range, I'll pay for a class or two... This rifle is all about trying to get the rifle itself figured out. I want to learn the basics of how the big pieces get put together.
 
#43
Mail came, and parts were there!! Woot! (Special thanks to Diver!)

Everything went together very well, very easily.

The bottom metal slipped in with just a little bit of pressure.

8B8F3CD1-3912-4F6B-9C05-BB1C335CDB45-1321-000000D6B6D18413_zps3f8a8fd2.jpg




The light weight factory barrel is easily floated all the way to the recoil lug. There's PLENTY of room in there to let the barrel do its thing.

66C43641-8541-445A-890D-724BA4575A24-1321-000000D6BE037F88_zps550dec26.jpg



6E889778-47B9-4029-8726-A5338CCA057D-1321-000000D6CBA81411_zpsfc3086eb.jpg




The bolt is pretty close to the stock when the action is open all the way.

C374B5CF-E4E1-4026-9549-B1D9DB15E1B7-1321-000000D6DD6E809F_zps0a4d8057.jpg




All in all, I'm pleased with how it came out! I need to get the optic for this, so I'll probably just get a set of rings for a scope that I already have.

54275DAD-1C52-4A80-B029-B3A1D158ABAE-1321-000000D6C44907ED_zpse2aa609b.jpg
 
#44
So, I went and shot this today. Between the throw-away scope, that I put on it to try and zero it, and the hornady ammo that we chronied at 3750fps with a 55gr projectile, I did not get an improvement in the original 2"-3" group. I'll get some different ammo (closer to what I'll actually shoot) and see from there.
 
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