Remington 700 Switch-barrel - Why wouldn't this work?

[Jericho941]

I'm getting ready to send my .308win Rem700 to a gunsmith to become a 260rem. via the Sniper's Hide GB that they are doing. Since I am having the action trued and lug pinned, it occurred to me that I didn't need to settle with just one caliber and could have multiple options using different barrels if said gunsmith barreled them for me. I'm trying to figure how I could make it work without having to disassemble the rifle to change barrels (i.e. without a barrel vise or action wrench).

Would it be as simple as opening the barrel channel, machining a hex bolt into the muzzle of the barrel and tightening/loosening it to/from the receiver from that point?

(much like this picture)

Would this idea work with a rem varmint or medium palma contour as well? Or is a larger contour needed?

Also, would this cause wear to the threading of the receiver that would effect accuracy?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

You can definitely do a switch barrel but you're going to have to have a barrel vise, torque wrench, and action wrench. There's no getting around that. You will also have to pull the action out of the stock every time.

 

[Jericho941]

Reading around, I've read that the Barrel doesn't have to be "that" tight to the receiver. Here is an article that got me thinking about it.

The Switch Barrel

Seems to show that all of those things aren't needed necessarily, and that it can be done with hand tools.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I'll take the manufacturers advice as far as torque specs are concerned over some yahoo that can write an article and possibly has no clue about how tight a barrel should be. Engineers didn't go to school to make up stuff. No way would I run a barrel that seats with friction from a male hex end cut on the barrel.

If being able to quickly change the barrel with minimal tools is that important to you then you should pony up the coin to a rifle that's designed to do just that.

 

[Jericho941]

Okay, but that author isn't exactly a yahoo. He's pretty experienced with the sport.

This seems to be something that the benchrest crowd does fairly regularly. I'm not saying don't have it on there tight, the question is: how tight?

 

[redbullitt]

Sounds like a great excuse for a DTA lol.

 

[Jericho941]

I'm a southpaw and DTA is expensive. Though I have thought about it.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Generally 80-100 ft lbs for a R700. To do that the barrel has to be locked down securely.

 

[MoBoost]

Decent read: Switch Barrel Torque

 

[Regular Guy]

I ran a switch barrel for F-class for years that was very lightly torqued - I didn't need more than 20 ftlb.

Try shooting groups tightening in 10 ftlb steps to see if you see a difference. I didn't. I settled on 20 ftlb since the removal torque matched the install torque there. Any looser and the torque from firing tightened my barrel.

BTW, if you tighten from the end of the barrel like in the pic, you will have to account for rotational torsion of the barrel. You will lose torque over the length of the barrel. I am sure there is some really complicated math that will account for barrel material, length, and taper...

I should also note that the torque was measured using a dogleg action wrench so the actual torque on the barrel was higher than 20 ftlb as that was measured at the wrench.

 

[Bender]

Savage.

You are welcome.

 

[mallrat]

A: What are you going to use the rifle for?
B: Try it and let us know how it works.

 

[asbestosglove]

I had a R700 with hex heads cut into the barrels. One was .308, the other 6.5x.284. Worked great. Lug was pinned, sat in a McMA2 bedded. Changed the barrels out 20 or more times while I owned it without a vise or action wrench. These folks who put on barrels with a 3ft cheater bar over do it imho. Still have the barrels, gonna use them on another build later.

 

[Slug-O]

You must be reading my mind. I too have an R700 in .308 and have an .260 on order...

 

[Jericho941]

I had a R700 with hex heads cut into the barrels. One was .308, the other 6.5x.284. Worked great. Lug was pinned, sat in a McMA2 bedded. Changed the barrels out 20 or more times while I owned it without a vise or action wrench. These folks who put on barrels with a 3ft cheater bar over do it imho. Still have the barrels, gonna use them on another build later.

So you've actually done it? Why did you get rid of it? If you don't mind me asking.

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

It will work and no, you won't have to remove your action from the stock to do it.

Have your lug DOUBLE pinned. You can run any torque you please as long as 1.) Its tight enough to not come off & 2.) It does not affect the headspace relationship between your bolt and barrel.

I will give you some advice upfront, If your barrel was cut to properly headspace at 80 ft.lbs and you're running it at 20, you will have atleast .001" excessive headspace, maybe .002".

If you do want to run barrels with that light a torque, you will probably need to have them chambered a thou or two short

 

[Jericho941]

I'm getting ready to send my .308win Rem700 to a gunsmith to become a 260rem. via the Sniper's Hide GB that they are doing. Since I am having the action trued and lug pinned, it occurred to me that I didn't need to settle with just one caliber and could have multiple options using different barrels if said gunsmith barreled them for me. I'm trying to figure how I could make it work without having to disassemble the rifle to change barrels (i.e. without a barrel vise or action wrench).

Would it be as simple as opening the barrel channel, machining a hex bolt into the muzzle of the barrel and tightening/loosening it to/from the receiver from that point?

(much like this picture)

Would this idea work with a rem varmint or medium palma contour as well? Or is a larger contour needed?

Also, would this cause wear to the threading of the receiver that would effect accuracy?

It will work and no, you won't have to remove your action from the stock to do it.

Have your lug DOUBLE pinned. You can run any torque you please as long as 1.) Its tight enough to not come off & 2.) It does not affect the headspace relationship between your bolt and barrel.

I will give you some advice upfront, If your barrel was cut to properly headspace at 80 ft.lbs and you're running it at 20, you will have atleast .001" excessive headspace, maybe .002".

If you do want to run barrels with that light a torque, you will probably need to have them chambered a thou or two short

Will a rem varmint contour work, or do you need a heavier contour? And is torsion an issue?

 

[Who Dat]

This is the system I am going to use, a mimic of the Savage system for the Remington.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-bolt-action-rifles/236285-change-barrel.html

 

[Killswitch Engage]

I run switch barrel Rems but I also run chassis so it's easy in and out of chassis. I use a rear action ptg wrench so I leave the optic and rail on the action etc. works great and I keep my barrels torqued to 75ftlb on the switch barrel guns. I would rather pull the action everytime to swap the barrel but that's just me.

 

[Jericho941]

The barrel nut doesn't really appeal to me sadly, but I did considered it.

 

[asbestosglove]

So you've actually done it? Why did you get rid of it? If you don't mind me asking.

I had a 1000yd contour Broughton put on it and used it as a dedicated .308. Its first use was as a High Power course gun. Like lots of stories you read on here, ended up with too many and someone else took a liking to it. He wasn't interested in the extra barrels, so knocked some off. I have two just like your photo. Think they take 7/8's wrench.