Remington 700 - Timney 510 Trigger Adjustments

[0V3RC10CK3D]

I just put a new Timney 510 in my 5R SS as the stock XMark Pro trigger was too heavy even with the screw all the way out.

This new 510 also seems pretty heavy and there was no documentation as to which screw adjusts what. There are two screws (one front and back) that have locking nuts on them, I'm assuming one is sear engagement and the other is over travel. Then there is another hex screw on the front which I assume is pull weight, I've backed out that one pretty far but it doesn't seem to make the pull any lighter, also when it's tightened up all the way the bolt wont lift.

Anyone familiar with adjusting these?

 

[58blackflag]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

I called Timney when I put mine in...I don't remember what did what. They were very nice and super helpful. I got the number from the package.
Good luck!

 

[colokraut]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

These instructions should help. If you need/want to change sear engagement also, see the description in the FAQ link on Timney's website.

 

[colokraut]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

From your description, it sounds like you backed out the overtravel screw, as the pull-weight screw has a locking nut.

 

[0V3RC10CK3D]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

Got it dialed in!

Thanks for all the help guys.

FYI for future people reading this thread I'll recap the process.

On the front of the trigger the top screw has a locking nut around it, this is the pull weight, back out the screw to the desired pull weight then tighten up the locking nut so it doesn't move.

Below that also on the front of the trigger is the overtravel screw, this is just a hex bolt with no locking nut.

Cycle the bolt so it's ready to fire then tighten this hex bolt in all the way, you shouldn't be able to lift your bolt or pull the trigger at this point. Then apply pressure to the trigger and slowly loosen the overtravel hex bolt out until the firing pin drops.

You're done. Don't mess with the seer engagement screw with locking nut on the back, no need.

Slam the bolt closed a few times and ensure it doesn't fire, if it does, increase the pull weight of the trigger and repeat the overtravel tune.

Once it doesn't fire from slamming the bolt closed put the stock back on and then test smashing the butt of the stock on some cement a few times to ensure it still doesn't slam fire, if it does you need to pull it back apart and increase the pull weight / tune the over-travel again.

Once your satisfied that the trigger is safe and you have the desired pull weight, good to go.

 

[ssnfa]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

The nice thing about Timney is if you order straight from them they will adjust it at the factory for any weight.

 

[0V3RC10CK3D]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ssnfa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The nice thing about Timney is if you order straight from them they will adjust it at the factory for any weight. </div></div>

How would they ensure that it wont slam fire though? Just curious.

 

[XxMerlinxX]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

I think they'll only adjust it as low as 1.5#, which is pretty safe. Anything under than that and I agree, you need to make sure it's safe in your rifle and won't produce a slam fire.

 

[Swift]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

Tag

 

[GSRswapandslow]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

i have a 517...and I can't get it nearly as light as I want it :-/ I'm not sure where it's sitting at right now...but, I'm kind of disappointed. That, and the fact that the weight screw hits my stock sucks, as well.

 

[ofelas]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a 517...and I can't get it nearly as light as I want it :-/ I'm not sure where it's sitting at right now...but, I'm kind of disappointed. That, and the fact that the weight screw hits my stock sucks, as well. </div></div>

Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Check trigger pull weight.
If you don't have a trigger pull gauge, a fishing scale or adding known weights to fishing line tied to the trigger shoe works. I've been known to use a plastic grocery bag & add 1lb blocks of frozen butter. You can even fine tune with the 1/4 lb sticks.
Use a round file or Dremel to hog out the stock & allow the forward screw to clear.

 

[KYS]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ofelas</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a 517...and I can't get it nearly as light as I want it :-/ I'm not sure where it's sitting at right now...but, I'm kind of disappointed. That, and the fact that the weight screw hits my stock sucks, as well. </div></div>

Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Check trigger pull weight.
If you don't have a trigger pull gauge, a fishing scale or adding known weights to fishing line tied to the trigger shoe works. I've been known to use a plastic grocery bag & add 1lb blocks of frozen butter. You can even fine tune with the 1/4 lb sticks.
Use a round file or Dremel to hog out the stock & allow the forward screw to clear.
</div></div>

That doesnt do anything for the guys that are running a chassis style system.... a dremel on aluminum is a long ass day.

 

[Beef82]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ofelas</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a 517...and I can't get it nearly as light as I want it :-/ I'm not sure where it's sitting at right now...but, I'm kind of disappointed. That, and the fact that the weight screw hits my stock sucks, as well. </div></div>

Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Check trigger pull weight.
If you don't have a trigger pull gauge, a fishing scale or adding known weights to fishing line tied to the trigger shoe works. I've been known to use a plastic grocery bag & add 1lb blocks of frozen butter. You can even fine tune with the 1/4 lb sticks.
Use a round file or Dremel to hog out the stock & allow the forward screw to clear.
</div></div>

That doesnt do anything for the guys that are running a chassis style system.... a dremel on aluminum is a long ass day. </div></div>

If you get a carbide burr meant for non ferous it'll go really fast, a non ferous burr will have much courser flutes than one intended for ferous metal. Stones and carbides meant for ferous will clog up. Better than a dremel is an actual die grinder, its fast enough you can actually screw up. Always pick the right tool for the job.

FWIW my 510 came with very simple and clear intructions.

 

[Swift]

Re: Timney 510 Adjustments

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Beef</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ofelas</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a 517...and I can't get it nearly as light as I want it :-/ I'm not sure where it's sitting at right now...but, I'm kind of disappointed. That, and the fact that the weight screw hits my stock sucks, as well. </div></div>

Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Check trigger pull weight.
If you don't have a trigger pull gauge, a fishing scale or adding known weights to fishing line tied to the trigger shoe works. I've been known to use a plastic grocery bag & add 1lb blocks of frozen butter. You can even fine tune with the 1/4 lb sticks.
Use a round file or Dremel to hog out the stock & allow the forward screw to clear.
</div></div>

That doesnt do anything for the guys that are running a chassis style system.... a dremel on aluminum is a long ass day. </div></div>

If you get a carbide burr meant for non ferous it'll go really fast, a non ferous burr will have much courser flutes than one intended for ferous metal. Stones and carbides meant for ferous will clog up. Better than a dremel is an actual die grinder, its fast enough you can actually screw up. Always pick the right tool for the job.

<span style="font-weight: bold">FWIW my 510 came with very simple and clear intructions.</span> </div></div>

Not sure if the OP pitched the instructions but they clearly explain how to adjust the trigger and what screws adjust what.

Unless you really know what you're doing, leave the sear engagement alone. It'll cause you more headaches than it's worth and will pose a safety hazard if not done correctly.