Remove barrel for threading?

[mynamejeff]

Been looking for a .223 Tikka T3x CTR forever but they're unicorns. Thinking of getting a Varmint instead and having the barrel threaded, 5/8-24.

2 questions since I've never had it done before:

1. Does the barrel need to be removed from the action to get it threaded? Looking at getting a 24" barrel T3x.
2. Any recommendations for quality work? I don't mind shipping.

I ask about barrel removal because I'm also thinking of getting a pre-fit, so if I have to remove the barrel anyways I'll just go that route. I'd like to keep it simple and stick with the factory barrel if I can, my current Tikka shoots lights out.

Cheers!

 

[FuhQ]

Been looking for a .223 Tikka T3x CTR forever but they're unicorns. Thinking of getting a Varmint instead and having the barrel threaded, 5/8-24.

2 questions since I've never had it done before:

1. Does the barrel need to be removed from the action to get it threaded? Looking at getting a 24" barrel T3x.
2. Any recommendations for quality work? I don't mind shipping.

I ask about barrel removal because I'm also thinking of getting a pre-fit, so if I have to remove the barrel anyways I'll just go that route. I'd like to keep it simple and stick with the factory barrel if I can, my current Tikka shoots lights out.

Cheers!

Depends on the smith's lathe. If he has a long bed lathe, he might can thread it while still attached to the action. My smith can do up to 24" barrels without breaking them down, but if it's a +24" barrel, he has to pull it apart.

 

[Yondering]

Depends on the smith's lathe. If he has a long bed lathe, he might can thread it while still attached to the action. My smith can do up to 24" barrels without breaking them down, but if it's a +24" barrel, he has to pull it apart.

This, although it's not about the bed length so much as the headstock length; they can (and should be) done with the barrel through the headstock and the action sticking out the rear. It doesn't work well on short barrels but if the barrel is longer than the headstock and chuck, or the spindle ID is bigger than the action, it's no big deal.

I've threaded a couple Tikkas as well as other bolt guns without removing the action from the barrel, using common 12"-14" swing lathes like a lot of smiths use. With a 24" barrel most smiths should be able to do this, and it's a relatively simple job. The scope (and most likely the mounts) will need to come off of course. (I don't do this as a business, but have been a machinist for years and thread almost all my rifles.)

 

[iceng]

Depends on the smith's lathe. If he has a long bed lathe, he might can thread it while still attached to the action. My smith can do up to 24" barrels without breaking them down, but if it's a +24" barrel, he has to pull it apart.

I'm the complete opposite. I can do as short as 15", and anything longer. I can do shorter, but have to pull the barrel and screw on a dummy extension to make it long enough. Rarely do I do 13.5 to 15", but from time to time do it.

 

[bna5017]

I'm confident you'll find most thread with barrels through the headstock rather than between centers. Typically there will be a minimum barrel length where anything under requires removal of the receiver to allow use of a dummy extension and anything over the minimum can be done with the receiver installed. OP, you should not have any issues finding someone who can thread a 24" barrel with the receiver installed. I just do some threading here and there for friends and have only taken one barrel off for threading which was mine, 1 out of probably 15-20 Tikkas.

 

[E. Bryant]

In before this turns into an argument on lathe turning methods

Frankly, it makes no practical difference either way on the majority of mainstream bolt guns. If one can put concentric threads on the muzzle without separating the barrel from the action, great; otherwise, spend a few minutes to break out the barrel vise and action wrench and be done with things.

I wouldn't abandon the factory barrel until I had a chance to shoot it. If it performs, keep it. If it doesn't, then it's pre-fit time. But no need to toss the original part simply because a 'smith wants to unscrew it to thread the muzzle.

 

[mynamejeff]

Thanks for the replies, everyone! Sounds like it's not a big deal and I should be able to find someone who can do a good job without removing the barrel. I did a little digging and found that LRI is well-liked for threading services here. I'll give them a call on Monday. Seems like they use a CNC, not sure if that makes a difference, but their work looks very good. Does anyone have experience? I'm leaning towards getting a Varmint and sending it to them.

 

[brazz04]

https://class3machining.com/
[email protected]

Threading is their main focus, and they don't need the action seperated from the barrel, just strip the rifle down and send it over to them.

 

[FuhQ]

In before this turns into an argument on lathe turning methods

Frankly, it makes no practical difference either way on the majority of mainstream bolt guns. If one can put concentric threads on the muzzle without separating the barrel from the action, great; otherwise, spend a few minutes to break out the barrel vise and action wrench and be done with things.

I wouldn't abandon the factory barrel until I had a chance to shoot it. If it performs, keep it. If it doesn't, then it's pre-fit time. But no need to toss the original part simply because a 'smith wants to unscrew it to thread the muzzle.

I've found with a few simple enhancements, most factory barrels can shoot quite well. Chase the threads, make sure the chamber is properly cut, & if not, take it back a few threads, and run a reamer through it to clean it up and assure headspace, hand-lap the bore, recut the crown, thread the muzzle, blueprint the action, and it's most likely going to shoot without any added expense, other than some labor.