Gunsmithing Removing Stripped Hex Head Bolt

[kft101]

I know this has been asked before, but various self fixes have been attempted without success, so hoping to find a shop that can professionally and quickly fix this.

Got a stripped hex head bolt that I’m trying to get removed. It’s the second bolt from the rear of a MIRS mounted on a R700 barreled action. Not only is it fully stripped, the relatively deep channel of the MIRS mount is making it harder to try the home remedies myself. I know it’s not loc-tited in because I was able to unscrew it with the other bolts, and it only stripped when I went to screw it back in, and just hand tight at that.

Any good shop that can quickly and professionally do this simple job? Will pay for the work and shipping, of course.

Thanks, all!

 

[ACard]

Have you tried a quality extractor like this?

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[hafejd30]

“Left hand” “reverse” drill bit. It will grab it and back it out

Worse case choose a bit the size of the other screw shafts. When the head detaches it will come out

 

[ACard]

“Left hand” “reverse” drill bit. It will grab it and back it out

Worse case choose a bit the size of the other shafts. When the head detaches it will come out

I have drilled many as well, that said be aware that if a thread fastening product was used the stub can be a bit testy to deal with

 

[hafejd30]

I have drilled many as well, that said be aware that if a thread fastening product was used the stub can be a bit testy to deal with

In this case he said it was loose. So I’d guess a bit would grab it and back out

Could also get a Allen or hex head and put a dab of jb weld on it. Set the bit in the screw head and wait for it to harden. Then back out. May work May not but won’t hurt if the screw is close to backing out

 

[ACard]

In this case he said it was loose. So I’d guess a bit would grab it and back out

Could also get a Allen or hex head and put a dab of jb weld on it. Set the bit in the screw head and wait for it to harden. Then back out. May work May not but won’t hurt if the screw is close to backing out

Ahhh missed the loose part, thanks.

JB weld has also worked for me as well as cyanoacrylate if loose.

 

[Army First]

I have a small collection of torx and hex tools that come with various items purchased. I recently had your problem, mixed up some JB weld and glued the tool in, after several days of drying the screw was removed and tossed in the trash.

I type too slow, beaten by the post above

 

[kft101]

In this case he said it was loose. So I’d guess a bit would grab it and back out

Could also get a Allen or hex head and put a dab of jb weld on it. Set the bit in the screw head and wait for it to harden. Then back out. May work May not but won’t hurt if the screw is close to backing out

It’s not loc-tite’d in, but I wouldn’t say it’s loose either. I unscrewed it out once, and the head completely stripped when I hand tightened it down when re-installing. I think the biggest issue with me trying to get it back out with my limited tools at this point is the relatively deep and narrow channel of the MIRS rail it’s in. Makes it so regular sized bit diameters can’t get in there.

 

[hafejd30]

It’s not loc-tite’d in, but I wouldn’t say it’s loose either. I unscrewed it out once, and the head completely stripped when I hand tightened it down when re-installing. I think the biggest issue with me trying to get it back out with my limited tools at this point is the relatively deep and narrow channel of the MIRS rail it’s in. Makes it so regular sized bit diameters can’t get in there.

Your best be then is get a set of reverse bits. They may or may not grab the screw but if it does it will back it out. If it doesn’t you choose a bit the same size as the shaft of the screw. Use one of the other 3 you have for reference. Drill slow and centered in the head. The head will drill off. Remove the base then grab the screw with some vise grips or other tool with some real grip so you can back the shaft out without jacking it up

The same thing would work with loctite. Only when the head drills off and you remove the base you just heat the shaft of the screw til you cook the loctite off

You can still try jb weld. Just don’t slop it in the hole. Only in the head. If it’s tight you likely won’t have enough grip to back out before the jb gives

 

[kft101]

Alright, I’m going to try the JB weld on bolt head tip. If that doesn’t work, I’ll probably need to have a shop with some professional know-how and tools do this.

 

[M_R_Woodard]

Drive a torx bit in it with a hammer and back it out.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

I have some fine dremel bits and make two notches so a flat head bit will take them out.
Don't bother with getting anything fancy, the bits have a short shelf life.

Be careful not to chew on the rail.

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[strikeeagle1]

I have found that the Grabit micro-bits work great for small gunsmith style fasteners, and it's usually a hex head stripped. Cordless drill in reverse for both functions, drilling the fastener and extracting the fastner. Slow speeds with some pressure applied during drilling, so best to mount the malcontent object in a protected vise. You can spend a lot of $$ on fancy extractors but I hardly ever get to employ them as the Grabit is gtg. Every opportunity to proactively replace hex heads with torx fasteners is money well spent.