Remy 700 Varmint SAS 26 inch barrel cut to what length for a can?

Armordude

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Mar 7, 2013
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I have a Remy 700 Varmint SPS 26 inch barrel and I want to add a can to. Its the stock factory barrel that I plan on shooting until I burn it out then re barrel.

I have a post in the can section: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...reak-1-can-system-556-223-762-308-rifles.html

Where I am looking for suggestion on a 1 can and break/hider system for multiple calibers rifles.

On the 700 w/the 26 inch barrel, it needs to be threaded. The question is what length would you cut it to to, if at all, to shoot both with a can and without?

Consider this is a project gun and will slowly be transformed with a scope(Viper PST 6x24x50 FFP) first, cut and threaded, trigger, stock and the can, mostly in that order.

Will be used for bench mostly with no hunting planned.

Any suggestion would be welcome.
 
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I'd get the trigger before you get it cut and threaded, since the trigger will be a huge improvement over the xmark. Also you say its a factory barrel, 26in rem 700 varmint, so i assume you mean SPS, not SAS, so you will want to replace the stock early on as well, because the one it comes with is terrible.

I was in your shoes not that long ago, and transformed my sps into this:


I was going to cut it, but I get too much accuracy from 155 grain bullets and they do best with more velocity, so this is finished.
 
Everything has variables but in my experience going from 26 to 20 in a 308 Remington factory barrel is going to drop your velocity about 100fps with like loads using the 155g-180g class bullets. Length is personal choice and I would not go shorter than 20… with 22-23 being my preference so I can comfortably stay 2600+ with 175’s but it just depends on what YOU are going to do with the rifle.

You stated “Will be used for bench mostly with no hunting planned” I’d be tempted to stay at 26”
 
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Thx guys.

XCD
Thats exactly what my plan is. Thanks for the SPS correction.

I will shoot this stock after I get the optics mounted. Then swap and track changes in accuracy ( curse of being an engineer)

What mag system did you go with and what was the cost?
 
I'm in a very similar situation with the same mindset as far as shooting out the factory barrel. I only shoot targets with it out to 1k. that's why I chose the 26". Now I have a 30p-1 waiting for my stamp. I plan on getting the factory barrel threaded. I would keep it 26" but I recently got a new safe and it will fit under the shelf better at 24.5". That way I don't have to raise it for 1 rifle.

So, no science behind it other than storage and the oal with the can installed does get a bit long. I figure maybe it will be a bit more rigid. 24.5 I'll still have enough velocity for what I want to do

I do agree with xcdave about the stock. It was the first thing I changed. The xmark isn't that bad, keep it for a while. Ive shot some good groups with it. The stock however is garbage. For about $2-300 you can get something worthwhile on there.
 
With a factory tube, I'd go to 20" and no less. I've had some awesome experience but with a 5R 20" (2900 w/ 175smk's). I called Tac Ops the other day to discuss turnaround times, and we got to talking about the Tango series, and he said using a Krieger brrl, they took some machinery with them to the range, and saw no loss of velocity to 19.75", and was getting a full complete burn. I'm running 45gr Varget w/ 175's through a Rem 5R 20" and also getting a complete burn. Good Read below.

SWAT Article BARREL LENGTH
 
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New high energy powders all but eliminate the fps loss of chopping barrel

New short CANS also allow for longer barrels
Reflex Suppressors UK website
Surprised that a US comapny has yet to make a reflex style CAN, thou there are short squat CANS avail

I run a 20" 6.5x47
123's @ 3000fps +

done correctly you give up nothing running a shortter barrel
 
Thx guys.

XCD
Thats exactly what my plan is. Thanks for the SPS correction.

I will shoot this stock after I get the optics mounted. Then swap and track changes in accuracy ( curse of being an engineer)

What mag system did you go with and what was the cost?


As another member posted, its a PTG with a 5 round ASICS mag (I also have an Alpha 10 rounder), I bought the system for $120 (plus ~$60 per mag) and inletted my stock myself so the total cost of the set up was $240, which is tough to beat for a DBM. Later I bedded the stock and improved accuracy (bedding material was like $30-40)
 
I left mine at the factory length, with the varmint contour your barrel is stiff enough to use a can. Go with a titanium can due to it being light which will not have major POI changes do to changing barrel harmonics if it was heavier. I use one suppressor between my two rifles 338 lapua and 308, now even though the can is rated for the lapua and is titanium it has enough weight on the 308 to make a 3 inch POI shift down. Where is if you get a suppressor just for your 308 which is going to be smaller and lighter you should have no issues. Plus if you get a can that is rated for semi-auto fire use it on your AR also if you have one. That is the neat thing about quick connect suppressor mounts, one suppressor multiple weapon platforms.
 
I d cut either a 223 or 308 to 18 inches, the barrel will be more rigid and the can won't flex it down as much compared to a longer one. Yes, you will loose velocity and your bullets will drop more and that is what the turrets on the scopes are for: compensating.
cheers.
 
I emailed them two weeks ago with that exact question as I saw that one of their models had a different foot print. Below is my Q and their A

This question is in reference to:

Short Action Flush Mount Detach Mag Bottom Metal- M5 Style Model: N3861448

I currently use and am familiar with Badger M5 DBM's, my question is will
the above model require modification to a Remington stock with a BDL inlet.

Your add says drop in, I just was not sure if it was a BDL inlet drop-in .
Sincerely,
Xxx

Hi Xxx,

I was told that 90% of the bottom metal has to have inletting....The only
true drop in is the military bottom metal that has the dog ears...

Thanks.
Xxx

I don’t think they fully understood my Q as one is clearly thinner in the rear (behind the release lever to the rear action screw) in the picture… So it may be that the picture doesn’t accurately reflect the product or…
 
Hard to find and attach the link to the article on my smartphone, but a well known manufacturer of tactical bolt guns did a test and found no appreciable loss of velocity from cutting a .308 barrel all the way down to 18" with 20-22"being the sweet spot.

Joe

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2
 
The question is what length would you cut it to to, if at all, to shoot both with a can and without?

I think you will find canned shooting so pleasing, you will have little reason to go without. What I find more critical than the velocity issue that most discussions venture into when talking barrel length, is the portability of the gun with a can screwed on. An 18-22" barrel with an 8" can is a whol lot easier to maneuver than a 26'er with 8" added on. Suppressed 20-22" barrels seems to satisfy a lot of 5.56 and .308 bolt gunners.
 
18" if your mostly shooting to 800. My xmark trigger tuned up nice but results very, I would do the trigger when you have all the other work done to rebarrel.