Suppressors Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

springer01

springer01

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 27, 2005
783
32
47
Brownfield, Texas
#1
I have a APA little bastard brake on my .308 I know the threads are 5/8-24tpi. Should there be any reason I shouldn't be able to remove brake and screw a 5/8-24 thread suppressor on? Or will I have to send suppressor and gun and have threads cut to suppressor specs? Don't want to go through the wait for my can only to be surprised by not being able to put it on.

Thanks
Tanner
 
#4
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As long as both threads are within spec it should be fine. This is not always the case however... </div></div>
I have to say that I've been very surprised by how many bad thread jobs I've seen since starting Thunder Beast.
 
#5
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RayDog</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As long as both threads are within spec it should be fine. This is not always the case however... </div></div>
I have to say that I've been very surprised by how many bad thread jobs I've seen since starting Thunder Beast. </div></div>
Exactly! A guy with a couple threaded rifles my never see it but, there are alot more out there than you would think. Only one way to know for sure, check it. You have to wait for your paperwork to clear so take your gun to your dealer and check it with the can. If it fits your good. If not, then you have time to get it taken care of.
 
#6
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

I went through the same thing, I had a 300wsm when I bought my first can, it was already threaded 5/8-24. I was cautious when I checked it but everything fit perfectly. So I fired away, and loved the results. I then had my .308 threaded to match the can, that one obviously worked. And then I had two more rifles threaded to 5/8-24 class 3A threads and they work just fine too, they are of course .223's so it wasn't as sketchy shooting them through a .308 can.
 
#7
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

Yeah I didn't even think of that! I'll take rifle to dealer and check threads. It was threaded by American Precision Arms so I really doubt there will be a problem.

Thanks!
 
#8
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: springer01</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It was threaded by American Precision Arms so I really doubt there will be a problem.</div></div>

Thats my thinking too. Replacing my Fat Bastard with a can and it should thread right up. Cant wait!!
 
#9
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

You also need to know that your threads are concentric to your bore and not just the outside of the barrel. I have been told, I am not a machinist, that it is common for the threads to be cut to the outside of the barrel but that the bore is not always aligned to the outside of the barrel. Obviously, for a suppressor with a bullet passing through it, you want the suppressor lined up with the bore to avoid striking a baffle or the end cap.
 
#12
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

With the type of custom rifles most people here are shooting, I would say never but I have talked to several very respectable gunsmiths over the years who have found bores not concentric to the barrel on factory rifles. This has been brought up every time that I have had a barrel threaded for a suppressor. As I understand it, again I am not a machinist, it has to do with how the barrel is set up on the lathe for threading. It can either be set up to rotate based on the outer circumference or off of the bore line. Setting it up off of the bore line is the correct method from what I have been told. Not trying to turn this into a conversation better suited to the Gunsmithing section. Just making an observation based on what I have been told over the years. And, again, not something I read off the internet or heard around the gun store but coming from reputable gunsmiths who would presumably know what they are talking about.
 
#14
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

Update...

I took my rifle with me today when I purchased my suppressor AAC Cyclone and it didn't thread on. It was strange though the YHM 5/8-24 thread protector I bought from Midway screwed on, my suppressor dealers thread protector screwed on to my rifle. My muzzle brake even screwed onto his rifle but not 1 of the 4 suppressors he had would thread on to my rifle. Gonna call APA tomorrow and see if we can figure it out.
 
#17
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

I have noticed a slight variation between YHM threads and everything else. For example, I cut 1/2-28 on a .308 for a project gun, I cut the threads checking the fit with the QD until it was right. I then screwed on my Tac 65 just to check. It was way too tight. So I tried a random AR15 break, also too tight. Tried a YHM thread protector, fit perfect.

In my limited experience, it is always advisable to have the item you are attaching to the end of your gun handy when the threads are being cut. And equally if not more important is a square 90 degree shoulder for your can/QD to seat against.
 
#18
Re: Replacing muzzle brake with suppressor question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 50calcruiser</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have noticed a slight variation between YHM threads and everything else. For example, I cut 1/2-28 on a .308 for a project gun, I cut the threads checking the fit with the QD until it was right. I then screwed on my Tac 65 just to check. It was way too tight. So I tried a random AR15 break, also too tight. Tried a YHM thread protector, fit perfect.

In my limited experience, it is always advisable to have the item you are attaching to the end of your gun handy when the threads are being cut. And equally if not more important is a square 90 degree shoulder for your can/QD to seat against. </div></div>

This man speaks solid advise. Always supply your break or can to your smith. Makes less of a risk when regarding baffle strikes.
 
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