I ran a search on it and could'nt find anything. I have some new remington .308win brass to reload. Do you guys resize your new brass or load it and shoot it first? Thanks.
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Re: resize new brass?
Yes. I once made the mistake of loading some Rem .308 brass without resizing it first, and it was too long in the shoulder to cycle properly in my M1A. This was probably an unfortunate coincidence, and I don't mean to reflect negatively on Remington brass. The point is, if you resize, you know it conforms to the die dimensions, and of you don't, then you don't.
Yes. I once made the mistake of loading some Rem .308 brass without resizing it first, and it was too long in the shoulder to cycle properly in my M1A. This was probably an unfortunate coincidence, and I don't mean to reflect negatively on Remington brass. The point is, if you resize, you know it conforms to the die dimensions, and of you don't, then you don't.
Re: resize new brass?
no. unnecessary work hardning of the brass. it wouldn't hurt anything to run it through a Redding body die, but a FL die with an expander ball will effectively take one round from the life of the brass every time it is sized.
no. unnecessary work hardning of the brass. it wouldn't hurt anything to run it through a Redding body die, but a FL die with an expander ball will effectively take one round from the life of the brass every time it is sized.
Re: resize new brass?
I have experience with new Federal .308, and new LC .223
We are told in various publications that new brass should be resized. But on inspection of the new brass, all dimensions were perfect. As 1sikpupi said, sizing would have only worked the brass to no good end.
I have experience with new Federal .308, and new LC .223
We are told in various publications that new brass should be resized. But on inspection of the new brass, all dimensions were perfect. As 1sikpupi said, sizing would have only worked the brass to no good end.
Re: resize new brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1sikpupi</div><div class="ubbcode-body">no. unnecessary work hardning of the brass. it wouldn't hurt anything to run it through a Redding body die, <span style="font-weight: bold">but a FL die with an expander ball will effectively take one round from the life of the brass every time it is sized.</span> </div></div>
I'd like to see the data that formed that statement.
I've been reloading for a little while and I ALWAYS full length resize my brass. I have hundreds of 308 cases in service with more than 50 reloads on them. I do not drive them lightly or at lower pressures.
IMHO, if you neck size only you will work the neck (the thinnest part of the case) 4 or 5 times before the brass will no longer fit in the chamber. Now you have a choice, FULL LENGTH RESIZE the whole case, or toss it. OK I know you, can body size it but that is essentialy the same thing AND now you have to drive the shoulder back. The point is instead of moving the brass a tiny bit each time you are now craming it back to size in one huge step.
Which one do you think will hurt the brass more?
Which one will give you more case volume consistancy shot for shot?
What happens if you need to use that ammo in another gun?
What happens if your team mate looses all his ammo?
If your neck gets dinged, how are you going to get it round again?
Things to consider.
Cheers,
Doc
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1sikpupi</div><div class="ubbcode-body">no. unnecessary work hardning of the brass. it wouldn't hurt anything to run it through a Redding body die, <span style="font-weight: bold">but a FL die with an expander ball will effectively take one round from the life of the brass every time it is sized.</span> </div></div>
I'd like to see the data that formed that statement.
I've been reloading for a little while and I ALWAYS full length resize my brass. I have hundreds of 308 cases in service with more than 50 reloads on them. I do not drive them lightly or at lower pressures.
IMHO, if you neck size only you will work the neck (the thinnest part of the case) 4 or 5 times before the brass will no longer fit in the chamber. Now you have a choice, FULL LENGTH RESIZE the whole case, or toss it. OK I know you, can body size it but that is essentialy the same thing AND now you have to drive the shoulder back. The point is instead of moving the brass a tiny bit each time you are now craming it back to size in one huge step.
Which one do you think will hurt the brass more?
Which one will give you more case volume consistancy shot for shot?
What happens if you need to use that ammo in another gun?
What happens if your team mate looses all his ammo?
If your neck gets dinged, how are you going to get it round again?
Things to consider.
Cheers,
Doc
Re: resize new brass?
Usually I only neck size the new stuff.
Gas guns get FL resize anytime it's being loaded, I don't agree that you need to FL bolt gun brass unless it wasn't fired in your rifle. I haven't FL resized the vast majority of my brass for many many reloads because it gets fired in bolt actions or a lever gun.
The only time I have a hard time chambering something is when it wasn't fired from my rifle last time (rare) or it needs to be trimmed (slightly less rare)
Usually I only neck size the new stuff.
Gas guns get FL resize anytime it's being loaded, I don't agree that you need to FL bolt gun brass unless it wasn't fired in your rifle. I haven't FL resized the vast majority of my brass for many many reloads because it gets fired in bolt actions or a lever gun.
The only time I have a hard time chambering something is when it wasn't fired from my rifle last time (rare) or it needs to be trimmed (slightly less rare)
Re: resize new brass?
Doc, what happens to brass when fired then sized?
what happens to brass when just sized?
pretty much the same thing. IMO, it is not the firing that kills brass, but the resizing die. if you get that many cycles out of your brass, no worries. but if you are running expensive brass through a magnum, it is something to think about. my brass only gives up at the neck since i quit FL sizing all the time. i have had no more cracks at the web or down the length of the body.
and if you FL size every cycle, you are moving the brass one huge step every cycle, not a tiny bit. (unless you are talking bumping) as opposed to the one huge step every fourth cycle. it doesn't matter if the brass was fully sized the last cycle, it is still going to expand to fill the chamber, then get sized to the dimentions of your die.
my ammo is segregated to each rifle, things like COAL, what load each rifle likes, intended used for each rifle far outweigh the need to just grab any 'ol ammo and use it.
seating a boattail will make a dinged neck round again if it ain't too bad.
but we are splitting hairs on the resize new brass thing. not a huge problem either way if your gun takes the brass. if your gun won't take new brass, factory ammo is not a good idea either.
Doc, what happens to brass when fired then sized?
what happens to brass when just sized?
pretty much the same thing. IMO, it is not the firing that kills brass, but the resizing die. if you get that many cycles out of your brass, no worries. but if you are running expensive brass through a magnum, it is something to think about. my brass only gives up at the neck since i quit FL sizing all the time. i have had no more cracks at the web or down the length of the body.
and if you FL size every cycle, you are moving the brass one huge step every cycle, not a tiny bit. (unless you are talking bumping) as opposed to the one huge step every fourth cycle. it doesn't matter if the brass was fully sized the last cycle, it is still going to expand to fill the chamber, then get sized to the dimentions of your die.
my ammo is segregated to each rifle, things like COAL, what load each rifle likes, intended used for each rifle far outweigh the need to just grab any 'ol ammo and use it.
seating a boattail will make a dinged neck round again if it ain't too bad.
but we are splitting hairs on the resize new brass thing. not a huge problem either way if your gun takes the brass. if your gun won't take new brass, factory ammo is not a good idea either.
Re: resize new brass?
In this case, it's Rem brass which comes in a bag. When brass comes in a bag, it will have dings and out-of-round necks. So, you have to run them through a die. Plus, there is normally a slight burr on the inside of the neck. I run them over a VLD chamfer tool.
Most new brass when sized does not even touch the shoulder, so you are only slightly working the neck. I often do not even use any lube. The case is already sized to spec and you are just cleaning up the neck area.
If it's Nosler or Lapua brass, often times it is ready to load straight out of the box.
In this case, it's Rem brass which comes in a bag. When brass comes in a bag, it will have dings and out-of-round necks. So, you have to run them through a die. Plus, there is normally a slight burr on the inside of the neck. I run them over a VLD chamfer tool.
Most new brass when sized does not even touch the shoulder, so you are only slightly working the neck. I often do not even use any lube. The case is already sized to spec and you are just cleaning up the neck area.
If it's Nosler or Lapua brass, often times it is ready to load straight out of the box.
Re: resize new brass?
I run it all through an expander and then through a full length bushing die set to push the shoulder back 0.001-0.0015 from the fired size.
Jeffvn
I run it all through an expander and then through a full length bushing die set to push the shoulder back 0.001-0.0015 from the fired size.
Jeffvn
Re: resize new brass?
Thanks guys. I am running it through a remmy bolt gun. It looks like I'll be running it through a fl sizer just for the sake of knowing it is right. I appreciate all of the opinions on the matter. I am going to shoot in my first f class tourny Sunday, I was a few short of some winchester brass but I have the new bag of remington brass.
Thanks guys. I am running it through a remmy bolt gun. It looks like I'll be running it through a fl sizer just for the sake of knowing it is right. I appreciate all of the opinions on the matter. I am going to shoot in my first f class tourny Sunday, I was a few short of some winchester brass but I have the new bag of remington brass.
Re: resize new brass?
I would suggest annealing every 2 or 3 firings to keep your brass nice and malleable.
I would suggest annealing every 2 or 3 firings to keep your brass nice and malleable.
Re: resize new brass?
If it chambers straight from the bag, load it up. Just don't assume it will, like I did.
If it chambers straight from the bag, load it up. Just don't assume it will, like I did.
Re: resize new brass?
I run all my new brass into a Lee collet neck sizer and I can tell quite a difference in neck tension from round to round as they go over the tapered expander. Some are tight,some almost slide over. I then trim them to the same length and chamfer the mouth and trim out the flash holes. My way of thinking is this would translate on target if I didn't take this step,I could be full of it,but it makes me feel better and my load shoots great so I do it.
I wouldn't full length size them though.
I run all my new brass into a Lee collet neck sizer and I can tell quite a difference in neck tension from round to round as they go over the tapered expander. Some are tight,some almost slide over. I then trim them to the same length and chamfer the mouth and trim out the flash holes. My way of thinking is this would translate on target if I didn't take this step,I could be full of it,but it makes me feel better and my load shoots great so I do it.
I wouldn't full length size them though.
Re: resize new brass?
I used to resize all my new brass and then I decided to try it without resizing and I have never been able to tell any difference. Like Greg said if it will chamber like it is load them. The only thing I do now is chamfer the necks on new brass.
David
I used to resize all my new brass and then I decided to try it without resizing and I have never been able to tell any difference. Like Greg said if it will chamber like it is load them. The only thing I do now is chamfer the necks on new brass.
David
Depends on the condition and brand of brass. I have one 6BR that has consistently performed at its best ( in the .1s with unfired Lapua. I use a Sinclair mandrel to iron out any imperfections in the neck, load and shoot. That's definitely the exception to the rule. The rule being If it's packaged in a plastic bag FL resize every piece.
Depends on the condition and brand of brass. I have one 6BR that has consistently performed at its best ( in the .1s) with unfired Lapua. I run them through a Sinclair mandrel to iron out any imperfections in the neck, load and shoot. That's definitely the exception to the rule. The rule being; If it's packaged in a plastic bag FL resize every piece.
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2 posts and its a double post in an 11 year old thread. Welcome to the internet. 
What kills me is that he had to search for this thread, apparently not looking for an issue or advice, just to throw some info in it.
Oh and I mandrel my virgin brass and let it rip
Oh and I mandrel my virgin brass and let it rip
Yeah... if you click the “next” button.
If you click the button I circled in red though it takes you to the last page.
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Son of a Bitch your right!!
Actually I pulled the number 1,453 out of my ass. Not realizing it was 1,473 to get to the last page.
Either way it’s pretty interesting to see how far things have come when members find these in the archives
Over the years I’ve order new brass from different outlets for my many different calibers, And 9 out 10 times
there was bent mouth’s. So i resize all my new brass.
there was bent mouth’s. So i resize all my new brass.
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