Gunsmithing Reticle Leveling - Advice Needed

[gunsandgear]

Hello, I'm looking to purchase either a rifle vise, or some type of unit with picatinny on top to install into a regular vise, to be used to level scope reticles and their corresponding bubble levels. I was thinking about getting the Wheeler Professional Reticle Leveling System to start, but I'm not sure what type of vise setup to go with. I've looked at the basic Tipton vises, as well as a Hyskore mount that looked adequate for optic leveling. I have a table vise and vise blocks for ar15 lowers that I could potentially use with an AR upper as the optic/mount host but I doubt they are level enough. One other thought was to just mount up an old quad rail in my bench vise, make sure it is level and then mount the scope from there. Please let me know what systems you guys are using to level optics and whats on the "approved list", thanks.

Edit: The Badger Ordnance Dead Level looks great besides the price. Thoughts?

 

[Rthur]

This may seem basic but the results speak for themselves.

Make sure to choose just enough gauges, don't want to compress them when tightening the rings.
A slip fit.

R

 

[drkhrs2]

The Badger dead level is amazing. I have one and use it in conjunction with a plum bob. I have tried every method out there, and it is by far the best. You can also use it for the level.

 

[ptm121]

Getting the reticle level to the rifle doesn’t really matter. Just eyeball it, or use the feeler gauge stack. For guns that get shot from a sling, I level them while in the sling position, since that often produces a natural cant.

For a scope mount or chassis system with integrated level, you’re stuck aligning the stock and reticle. If using the feeler gauge or similar mechanical method (like a level on the scope cap,) check that the reticle is square to the caps and scope tube.

Getting the bubble level aligned with the reticle is obviously very important for long-range performance. I do this by setting up or finding a vertical reference (the corner of a building works well, as long as I didn’t frame it,) and then putting the rifle on a bipod or tripod or in a vice, and lining up the reticle. Then I sung the level. Most clamp-on levels will twist as you tighten them, so go back and forth and watch the bubble as you snug the screw(s) up.

I’ve leveled a few scopes in the shop, but I much prefer going outside where I can focus the scope on a reference and ensure it’s correct.

 

[lht645]

Arisaka leveling tool, crazy easy and cheap

 

[magnumruger]

Wheeler level-level-level system works great for me and is fair in price. Their in-lbs torque driver is a must too!

 

[Gene Poole]

Ask a machinist: adjustable parallel.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...mpmH5BZlPRAVd1HugymivsgOJdqFbPSRoCui0QAvD_BwE

If you're really cheap, then the feeler gauges work OK.

 

[hereinaz]

I screwed a scope rail to a heavy table that doesn't move, put on a one piece scope ring, hang a plumb bob, then level the reticle to gravity. Once level, I tighten one half of the top ring, just to hold it still. Then, I attach a bubble level to the scope and set it. From that point, the bubble level is my reference point. Takes me no time at all, now that I have done it a few times. I can also use the mount to test the turret travel, like a tall target test, but haven't done it yet.

For mounting the scope to each gun, I get it in a comfortable position, which often includes a little cant of the buttstock in my shoulder pocket--kinda like natural point of aim--so I am not muscling the rifle. Then, I level the scope by the bubble level and tighten it in its rings. I added an adjustable butt plate to my rifle so I can get more length of pull, and it also allows me to keep the gun vertical, and just cant the pad into my shoulder. It has worked well enough on that one, that I am going to do it to a competition rifle to really test it.

I bought the cheapest "lead sled" and it is good enough to hold it for cleaning or whatever else I need. Has more adjustability than I need.

 

[gunsandgear]

Thank you very much for all of the advice. I just went ahead and got the Dead Level and a plumb bob.

 

[Mopar man]

This may seem basic but the results speak for themselves.
View attachment 6896720
Make sure to choose just enough gauges, don't want to compress them when tightening the rings.
A slip fit.

R

i use adjustable parallels works good no binding

 

[davsco]

sound like you're done but i level the rifle first (level on top of a top rail section, or if a hunting rifle with no rail, l level (plumb) along the two buttstock screws). then level on top of the scope elevation knob.

 

[sgtsmmiii]

Arisaka leveling tool, crazy easy and cheap

My favorite, too.

 

[_Windrider_]

Thank you very much for all of the advice. I just went ahead and got the Dead Level and a plumb bob.

You wont regret it.

 

[gunsandgear]

Some closure for the thread--the Badger Ordnance Dead Level is extremely impressive. It is overbuilt without a doubt but it seems like this device will end up outlasting me. I'm extremely confident that my reticles are level after using the Dead Level. Overall, I'd say if you're happy with your current scope mounting and leveling method, no need to upgrade, but if you're borderline OCD about this stuff and want undeniable mounting and leveling precision, the Dead Level will afford you that peace of mind (at a premium). I'm also looking forward to fixing all of my buddies' canted scopes!

 

[BravoSierra]

Arisaka leveling tool, crazy easy and cheap

This is what I use, and then confirm with twine and a weight. It's been dead on.