-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Rifle not holding a good zero @ 100 yrds
- Thread starter Trey
- Start date
Sure they do. Just not all of them and certainly not the very first one.
This one here works fine, but there are pages he removed and never replaced: http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/Recreation/AMA/SniperLogBook20081217.pdf
And this one works fine: Shooting Voodoo :: Data Book Pages
These are links straight out of that thread. That's why I suggested you read the whole thread first, but I guess I just did your homework for you.
I just read through his works again. AMAZING man, even looking at his work from now.
And if you stopped reading him in 1964, you missed some GREAT books.
Trey, try not to obsess about it and just get back out there and shoot. No, really! Yesterday, I linked your thread for a friend who I shoot with. We were our last weekend and he was off on everything he did. He couldn't even successfully adjust for windage. Everything he shot was to the left.
I told him to shake it off, restart and rebuild his position, but he was too frustrated. Now, I pointed out that even though his poa was off, his groups were still good. To me, this suggested that he was setting up differently.
There are times when I think I'm better off just packing it in for the day than continuing in a poor mental frame of mind. Usually, the next session is fine if I don't obsess over it. Rarely is it the equipment in my experience.
Lash I do think you are right but I also went over my rifle there was nothing loose but I did notice that my scope is sitting a lil high for a comfortable cheek weld n viewing plane when practicing my dry fire...so I went back and reviewed which rings would be the best fit and it would be med. rings instead of high....so come payday I will be getting a set of med rings and see if that will help with straighten things out...again without all of yalls help I would have never noticed that.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
40xs, I was doing the China Beach bit in late Spring/early Summer '67, and there was a SeaBee unit just South along the beach. I got invited to join in a steak thing one afternoon.
Greg
Greg
It was definitely NOT anything you would get in HS lit class. This is purely on your own time. Lots of sex and adventure, free love and actual thinking for yourself. It was somewhat dismissive of religion too. So it would not go down well in most places in puritan America.
Yeah, rings too high will definitely work against you. You might even be surprised that you can get away with low rings, depending on barrel profile and scope. Go as absolutely low as you can without the scope touching the barrel. If you can slide a dollar bill between then without having to force it, its not too low.
Also think about getting a stock pack. Even with low rings, I still needed a stock pack on my Rem 700 with an HS precision stock. And then needed some foam padding (cut strip from old mouse pad) to get cheekweld correct. As others have said, you should be able to build your position behind the rifle without looking through the scope, close your eyes and when you open them, you should have a clear eyebox view.
Finally, look at where your fore/aft scope position is in the rings. I often see people really having to crane their necks forward once they are on the gun to get a clear picture. Loosen the scope in the rings enough that it can slide forward/backward - do what I describe above, open your eyes and see where the scope is. Move it until your face is on the stock comfortably and you don't have to stretch your neck either way so see a clear view. Then tighten the rings down.
Actually finally2 - are you working the parallax correctly? If you move your head up/down, side to side slightly - does the crosshair stay exactly on target or does it float a bit? If the latter, you don't have you parallax set correctly. Ignore the range numbers on the parallax knob. They will get you in the ballpark, but they won't be perfect. Incorrect parallax can account for your issue.
As for being Puritan, the school was the Archdiocese of Newark, NJ Boys' Honor High School. 2000 boys, tuition paid by the Archdiocese, taught by the Irish Christian Brothers, uniquely unattached to any particular parish, admission by competitive test scores. Guilt was 4yr. core curriculum subject, and its primary product was clergy novices. I chose the Marine Corps as the easier of the available career choices. Funny, most of the Irish Christian Brothers were previously active Marines, with a heavy smattering of former DI's. Corporal punishment was permitted and frequent; shoe sole leather straps were the most prominent implement, usually with the users' initials embossed in reverse to leave a recognizable brand. Buttocks and palms were the usual target. Parris Island did not seem as difficult to me as some others.
I find that for most applications, 40-44mm scopes work better with Medium height rings, and 50mm scopes like High rings best.
I should have mentioned this, but my own ergonomics are so non-average that adjustable stocks are always my first go-to; force of habit trumps common sense every time.
Greg
Last edited:
If it's a "Factory Bedding Job" you might want to do come checking. Remove the action from the stock. Clean both the action and any bedding material by wiping down with Rubbing Alcohol, Laquer Thinner, or some spray gun cleaner. When all is dry, take some baby powder in a cotton ball and "dust" the surface of the action that contacts the bedding in the stock. Make sure you have only a thin layer, just enough to transfer to anything it comes in contact with. Lightly blow off any excess.
Set the action back in the stock and with hand pressure only press it into the bedding. If you can rotate the stock or move it slightly fore and aft (both will be limited by any clearance at the recoil lug) then remove. Look carefully at both the action and stock bedding. Where the action is contacting the "baby powder" you'll see white on the bedding and a clean spot on the action. If these "spots" are localized and don't extend the full length of the bedded area you have a very typical "Factory Job".
They slap in some bedding compound, install the action screws, tighten them up, let the epoxy cure while the action is under stress, then part and clean up with a mill. The action was stressed and will affect your accuracy until you correct this condition by re-bedding properly.
You can also check the "contact" by using Prussian Blue, Sharpie Ink, or any other thin film contrasting agent. If you have a Stainless action you can even use black paint that's been thinned with 3-n-1 oil so it won't dry. The idea is to have a thin film of something that "contrasts" with both the action and the bedding. I find that baby powder (talc) works fine and it's easy to clean off. Some spray cleaner and an air hose.
Last edited:
I just bought my mod 11 and it shoots All over ... At 100 yards I am shooting 6 inch groups.
I am solid at the bench, but she is all over the map.
I tried 150 grain ballistic tip win ammo and them 168 grain hornandy match gd ... And the rifle shot 2 foot high.... What is going on ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am solid at the bench, but she is all over the map.
I tried 150 grain ballistic tip win ammo and them 168 grain hornandy match gd ... And the rifle shot 2 foot high.... What is going on ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Start with the basics. Is the action tight, properly torqued in the stock? How about scope mounts and rings. Last time I had a rifle shoot that bad I found that the scope bases were loose. Someone forgot use loctite and properly torque the screws.
A rifle shooting that bad most likely has something loose[/u]
One more thing to check is the barrel nut. If it's loose, they sometimes crack when tightened with too much enthusiasm, the rifle will never shoot well until that problem is corrected. See if you can turn the barrel in the action at all by hand when gripped tightly.
Last edited:
Similar threads
