Re: Rifle Painting Tutorial
Over the years, I've done a lot of camo painting. Painting directly onto firearms has become less and less desirable for me as the years accumulate. Things wear and become otherwise unsatisfactory, and removal has always been somewhat of a hassle.
These days any rifles/shotguns I own that don't have factory camo are camo'd by first covering <span style="font-style: italic">everything</span> with 3M Blue wide masking tape, then applying either the paint finish or camo duct tape (digital camo duct tape can be used for this) over the masking tape. Naked parts get the tape removed, using an Exacto knife to trim neatly. The rest stays.
Using camo duct tape, I have found that there is no need to match edges and patterns; from beyond 20ft, it just doesn't matter.
Originally, I had qualms about whether this was effective, durable enough, or good for the firearm; but those worries were unfounded.
I have camo jobs that are on the firearm for years now. I have test-peeled back corners and the masking's adhesive is sill easily removed, and will also stick right back down where it was before. The bluing underneath appears to have been protected very well.
If the tape gets damaged or the finish could use replacement with something else (or nothing), the tape can be removed and replaced as needed. The tape itself provides some modest protection from trail rash.
Some fairly interesting projects can be completed, like my Win 94AE .44mag Trapper Carbine with all camo (duct taped) furniture and matching sling.
I just don't like the idea of having anything on the firearm that's either irrevocable, or a pain to remove/replace.
Some may go "Eeeewww" at the idea, and that's fine by me. The resulting camo job trends more (for me) towards the practical than the aesthetic. IMHO; as a concept, camo is more utilitarian than artistic in its intent.
Greg