Roof replacement and insurance questions

[sid]

Hi all,

So my roof is done, it's leaking a lot.
I called insurance, and after they reviewed everything the send me a check and a calculation

7000$ cost for the new roof
1900$ subtract for depreciation
1500$ deductibleso that leaves me with 3866$

Yesterday I had a contractor looking at the roof, he is preparing a qoute, he already said the 2 turbine type vents need to go, and no one uses aluminum ridge vents anymore.

We found some areas where the wood needs to be replaced because it's rotten and is soft ( it's not plywood)

Anyway the insurance mentioned that if the cost is more than their calculation I need to submit that cost before work starts.

So my questions are
Does the depreciation sounds right?
Anything I should pay attention to with a new roof?
Should I pay extra to get manufactured shingles?


The current shingles are 25 year 3 tab shingles and the roof is 24.8 sq.
Location is south east Tennessee

 

[Precision Underground]

Spend a little more and get architectural shingles for sure. They are a much better product for not much more money.

 

[sid]

The roofing contractor will come today to bring some samples, I was just wondering if he is trying to make more money or if architectural shingles are really better, the numbers he said was 25 years vs 30 year I think, so he will also prepare 2 quotes with each type shingles

 

[Deleted member 10043]

The contractors already know from experience how much you netted. Also, get three bids from different contractors.

 

[Carlos Danger]

Architectural are better. I refused to install 3 tabs. Pay attention to the manufacturers warranty and how its pro-rated.

Roof ventiallation is key. Make sure your contractor understands how it works and installs it properly. You need to understand it as well.

 

[antithesis]

Based on your description, the answer to your insurance question is yes, the depreciation is within line. If the roof was not in poor condition (the "done" was from wind blowing everything off or something rather than being worn out) then I would say no. 20% depreciation is standard for an 'old' roof that is not falling apart, and I have seen up to 35% for deteriorated roofs.

Find out if your insurance company is going to raise your rates for the claim (some don't for property claims), and if so, by how much and for how long. You may find the claim is not worth the additional $4k out of pocket. Probably is, but worth asking the question.

Current shingle options go out past 40 years. At a minimum, do architectural as @Precision Underground said. I believe they start at 35 years.

The carrier may push back on an upgraded shingle, but give them that quote first. Be prepared with a second quote that has the 'current' version of the shingle that was on the house. Keep in mind the depreciation is likely going to increase as the bid increases.

 

[Ravenworks]

Spend a little more and get architectural shingles for sure. They are a much better product for not much more money.

^^This^^^
I had my roof replaced because of hail damage and there was no deductions,their job is to make you whole.
Talk to your contractor,most will help you absorb the deductible.
Stand your ground on the "Make Me Whole " part

 

[sid]

Thank you all, some good info here on what I need to start educate myself on and read up.

 

[diverdon]

I line GAF and I like contractors who use only GAF.

 

[jinxx4ever]

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side.

 

[flyer]

I helped a friend do a roof once. The interior ceiling was 2x6 tongue and groove pine with a 4" foam bonded to OSB product on top of that, a moisture barrier and then steel shingles galvalume plated and mineral coated.

If you have a solid roof with no attic and all the seams taped, you don't need any roof venting and that type of construction should last 60+ years.

It costs quite a bit more but it's so much better, I doubt I'll ever do asphalt shingles unless I'm broke.

 

[W54/XM-388]

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side.

I'm over in the north Texas area and have just about 20 years on my roof, it's still in good shape, but I think it's probably only got a few more seasons of storms on it (especially if we get more of those huge wind storms like we got last week.), so I'll probably have to replace it in the next few years depending on how things go.

Any suggestions on what to be looking for in a metal roof & what to be looking for in a contractor that installs it?

 

[sid]

I

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side.
[/QUOTE

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side.

I asked about a metal roof, and he told me that would be "way" more expensive... I would love to have a metal roof
I'll ask him again today.

What do you mean with I get the depreciation back when I put on a roof? How do I find more info on this?
Insurance is Farmers if that matters

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Replaced our 12.5 year old roof after a large hail storm. Insurance is confusing but paid for everything minus the deductible and shingle upgrade we chose. Metal is not an option for us due to HOA.

 

[oneshot86]

I line GAF and I like contractors who use only GAF.

yes yes yes

 

[flyer]

Talk to the HOA if they don't like steel. Who knows when that rule got put in?

I never priced asphalt vs steel but I don't think it's too bad. The lifespan and durability make the investment pay off in my opinion.

 

[oneshot86]

I



I asked about a metal roof, and he told me that would be "way" more expensive... I would love to have a metal roof
I'll ask him again today.

What do you mean with I get the depreciation back when I put on a roof? How do I find more info on this?
Insurance is Farmers if that matters

just remember some guys work on ford, some guys work on chevy, in a better world all roofing contractors would be able to do all roof systems but they dont...

he may not be that good w metal...

go to the roofing supply house locally and rap w the dudes, they can give you some references for a metal roof...most metal roof systems go from coil to roof panel locally so necc there isnt a manufacturer to call...the metal and corrugation shops make it for the supply house which is sold to the contractor

 

[huntingthem]

....Also, get three bids from different contractors.

And make sure they are bonded, insured and their workers are vetted.

If permits are applicable make sure they get pulled if not confirm in writing that your insurance company is ok with it and signs off.

Make sure all material is on site before work starts, you don't need to be living under poly tarps being fed he said she said's by the contractor on why he's waiting on material..

And unless you want to clean your bathroom every morning or your ok with them pissing and crapping in your yard they are to provide a portajon no exceptions plus you don't need people casing your house..

The workers need to be presentable, not looking like the heroin addict standing at the off ramp with the cardboard sign looking for work(think house to case) to feed that addiction...

Professionalism is paramount.

No job is to be paid in full up front, half down is more than adequate and final pymt shall not be made (no matter how much they whine) until all permits have been final'd and that your satisfied and not just with the roof that includes job site clean up.

If they trash your gutters they fix them, they rut your lawn they fill it in and reseed it, their vehicles leak oil? they pay for clean up and/or damage to your driveway, etc. If any bullshit like that happens, you have final pymt until you and the contractor can come to an amicable resolution on issues they cause.

You don't need to deal with nails in your vehicle or lawn tractor or a barefoot or a dog paw because they lacked the professionalism to maintain a clean and secure jobsite, they're not going to fix your flats or cover your med bills after they have their money and are gone so the site needs to be maintained.

Make sure you and the contractor are on the same page about everything and it's in writing or recorded and that you don't want anything done that will result with you having to have a "coming to Jesus" meeting with him and/or his employees.

 

[flyer]

The plated and coated steel shingle style comes on a pallet, not a coil.

The coil stuff is like rain gutter, pretty flexible and the coating is thin. The shingle stuff feels a lot tougher and the coating is very thick. You can't bend it much without cracking the coating which is why the coil stuff doesn't use thick coating.

When it's installed, the shingle stuff looks as good or better than a brand new asphalt shingle roof and it doesn't scream steel roof like a standing seam coil steel roof.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I went out the night they finished w/ my magnet on a stick. In the dark I was able to find too many nails and bits. A lot of it in the grass and rocks next to the driveway. I went out w/ magnet on a stick a few more times after that. They sell magnet on a stick at your home improvement stores. Well worth the investment. I've had mine for almost 20 years and comes in handy when you need one. Bought when we moved into a new build house and it was nearly a must have. Moved the current house and used it again. Struck gold(iron)!

 

[oneshotmike]

Roofing is one of the most overpriced common repair items on a home. Anyone with a shingle shovel, a dump trailer, a case of beer and a few friends can rip off very easily.... Once the single and tar paper are off, do some nail removal. If there is spongy and rotten wood, cut it out rafter to rafter and replace it. Ice shield in the valleys and up from the gutter line. Start with a course upside down for first row. Then start correct way with offsetting the seams. Measure up and set chalk lines to keep the courses straight. Not difficult and you'll save a few grand or more and buy a another rifle and some ammo.....

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Roofing is one of the most overpriced common repair items on a home. Anyone with a shingle shovel, a dump trailer, a case of beer and a few friends can rip off very easily.... Once the single and tar paper are off, do some nail removal. If there is spongy and rotten wood, cut it out rafter to rafter and replace it. Ice shield in the valleys and up from the gutter line. Start with a course upside down for first row. Then start correct way with offsetting the seams. Measure up and set chalk lines to keep the courses straight. Not difficult and you'll save a few grand or more and buy a another rifle and some ammo.....

But when insurance pays for it...

Helped a friend's dad do a roof when I was about 16. I decided right then and there that roofing was not in my future. ?

I did paint my house last year. With a roller and a brush and a Little Giant ladder. Took a long time and was monotonous but I saved a ton of $$$ not hiring it out. If insurance was paying, I'd farm it out.

 

[jinxx4ever]

I'm over in the north Texas area and have just about 20 years on my roof, it's still in good shape, but I think it's probably only got a few more seasons of storms on it (especially if we get more of those huge wind storms like we got last week.), so I'll probably have to replace it in the next few years depending on how things go.

Any suggestions on what to be looking for in a metal roof & what to be looking for in a contractor that installs it?

experience first. They are not hard to install, but anything like skylights and such, need a trim put around them before metal, otherwise they can leak. It took me a few, since no one in this area had installed any to speak of. But with years of experience in basic roofing, it didn't take me to much to get it figured out. Had a couple small leaks in my first few, but nothing major and it taught me what to do. Nice thing was, for about 10 years no one but me installed them, and most all roofers referred customers to me. They didn't want to mess with them. Made a ton of money doing them, as i just charged the same as a shingle roof, with probably half the expense in material, took me probably 1/3 the time, and that all went in my pocket. Like i said, we could easily do a 20-30 sq roof in a day, where as with shingles, even with 3 of us, it was a 2 to 3 day job if we tore them off. A town about a 100 miles east of here got hit with softball hail a some years back. Actually broke the plywood under the shingles. Took out 1500 windows on the college. I saw overhang store fronts literally tore off the buildings. Worst hail damage i've ever witnessed. I went up and did 5 roofs for a fella, one was a building 40'x220' , 14' sidewalls, removing and replacing the roof took 3 days. That was also having to install the roof with self tapping screws as it was metal trusses. Myself and 2 helpers did them all in about 10 days. Made enough money that summer to buy the material with cash for my own home i was building, never had to borrow a dime on it. i've been around Glen Rose , TX a bunch several years ago, pretty brushy, they like them there because of the fire hazards and less chance of sparks igniting them like shingles will. As far as metal, get a 26ga. The thinner 29ga will work, but we only used that on barns for the most part where owners were trying to save money. An experienced roofer will also use a good silicone for sealing. Cheap caulk will crack and leak in a few years. Something else i forgot to mention, many insurance companies will give u a discount on ur insurance once u install a metal roof. I know State Farm did around here. Also, u could get government money back for awhile, kinda like upgrading ur windows, there was something u could file on ur tax return because it was energy saving.

 

[oneshotmike]

But when insurance pays for it...

Helped a friend's dad do a roof when I was about 16. I decided right then and there that roofing was not in my future. ?

I did paint my house last year. With a roller and a brush and a Little Giant ladder. Took a long time and was monotonous but I saved a ton of $$$ not hiring it out. If insurance was paying, I'd farm it out.

But when your 7000 roof price from insurance co becomes 3800....... thats not going to do it.. You know any local contractors? Maybe hire his guys for the rip off, pay for dumpster.... try to keep the money down. Is the pitch steep? Its actually easy work and you'll know its done right if you have your hand in it...... I saved @ $5k doing one myself with some buddies...

To follow your post along and assist you........... insurance company can't see amount of replacement wood that is needed. That should be an add on, definitely want to get rid of those big vents and close in those holes....... go to a ridge vent system with vented soffits as well. Not sure of your house layout, but a cross draft fan with a thermostat controller on it with the ridge vent and vented soffits are the way to go...... you'll likely be out of pocket but...... get three quotes, get them a little higher as an offset based on the work that is needed to properly replace it and all associated potential future problems (soft wood, existing vents etc).......

Ask around, prices will vary highly, find a guy with a volume model not a grand slam model, you'll get better work at a better price.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

I helped a friend do a roof once. The interior ceiling was 2x6 tongue and groove pine with a 4" foam bonded to OSB product on top of that, a moisture barrier and then steel shingles galvalume plated and mineral coated.

If you have a solid roof with no attic and all the seams taped, you don't need any roof venting and that type of construction should last 60+ years.

It costs quite a bit more but it's so much better, I doubt I'll ever do asphalt shingles unless I'm broke.

THIS^^^

This is pretty much what we have here in our house. Except we just have 1/4" plywood as the interior and exterior surfaces. The issue here with this house, is I think we have 3/12 pitch. So we have ice-damming.

In a perfect world, we'd have the money to tear the shingles off, lay down another 2 inches of polystyrene (R10), cover that with another layer of plywood (all bonded, not nailed) and then put metal roofing on.

Think that would SOLVE the ice-damming issue, or would we still have to put the heat-wires up as we do right now, in a "V" fashion?

Inquiring minds on Roofer'sHide want to know? The frustration we have, is we want to simply buy a huge-assed quonset hut, and cover our whole house with it and be done! Seem's somebody might have issue with that though too. Free-Country my-ass!

 

[flyer]

I don't know about ice dams, I've heard of it but I have never had to worry about a roof that won't do it.

The one regret my friend had is that he should have used a 2" foam with OSB product and a layer of plain 2" foam offset 1/2 a sheet from the top layer so that none of the joints would have a straight path from the 2x6 to the moisture barrier. All gaps filled and joints taped too.

Also, Hilti foam is far better than the crap you can buy at Home Depot. I would never use anything else unless I could try it and prove it's comparable first.

If you need 6" of foam, I might stack it 2" at a time.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

To make matters worse (and to not sway the thread) our home is of "Post and Beam" construction, so the beams are 8' apart and it is only the "sandwich panels" that span between. No, we don't have an attic. If I knew then what I know now, I probably wouldn't have bought this house. Alas, I have to work with it, and/or find a way to work with it. I learned 'some years' after buying that this was an 'experimental house' built back in '64 to see how it fared.

There are NO other houses around like this. Also, nobody who's seen it, has ever seen these building materials anywhere. So how does one work with that? Quite the roof, eh? New shingles back in '06 and I now seriously question the workers professionalism. That is due to a number of other reasons I won't get into on this thread.

So much potential in this place. Practically everybody loves it. And wants me to let them know when we sell it. But there's sure some peccadillo's.

 

[Carlos Danger]

Roofing is one of the most overpriced common repair items on a home. Anyone with a shingle shovel, a dump trailer, a case of beer and a few friends can rip off very easily.... Once the single and tar paper are off, do some nail removal. If there is spongy and rotten wood, cut it out rafter to rafter and replace it. Ice shield in the valleys and up from the gutter line. Start with a course upside down for first row. Then start correct way with offsetting the seams. Measure up and set chalk lines to keep the courses straight. Not difficult and you'll save a few grand or more and buy a another rifle and some ammo.....

I always love when people think roofing a house involves nothing more than a ladder and a few friends. I guess roofing is just self explanatory.

 

[oneshotmike]

I always love when people think roofing a house involves nothing more than a ladder and a few friends. I guess roofing is just self explanatory.

Necessity is the mother of invention, and learning.......I have had quotes and looked at the quality of work that is provided. There are tons of over priced hack contractors out there. I also am not afraid to work with my hands. By doing a little homework, I saved 12k when I re-did my roofing and siding. That 12k was the price difference between the high and low bid contractor. Roofing is not rocket science and requires some know how. I prefer to not get gouged by contractors and is why I made the suggestions I did to the OP...... If you are a contractor, you should know full well what I am talking about, not saying that is you, but they are certainly out there.

 

[Carlos Danger]

Necessity is the mother of invention, and learning.......I have had quotes and looked at the quality of work that is provided. There are tons of over priced hack contractors out there. I also am not afraid to work with my hands. By doing a little homework, I saved 12k when I re-did my roofing and siding. That 12k was the price difference between the high and low bid contractor. Roofing is not rocket science and requires some know how. I prefer to not get gouged by contractors and is why I made the suggestions I did to the OP...... If you are a contractor, you should know full well what I am talking about, not saying that is you, but they are certainly out there.

Agreed. Not rocket science but theres more to putting on a roof than nailing a shingle down. Not even saying don't attempt yourself, but to have a good grasp of how to do what needs to be done. A single shallow pitch gable can be handled by most but when things like ice and water shield, sheeting replacement, chimneys, pipe boots, and wall contacts come into play things get less than simple. I wasnt solely a roofing contractor but installed many roofs, first working with experienced roofers before handling on my own. I just want the OP to be aware of being prepared to tackle something of such importance. Also agree that "contractors" don't always know what they're doing either. I've seen it too. I wasnt a hack and always made sure to do it right, even if it took longer than I anticipated, and never had an issue with any roof I installed. Whichever desicion he chooses, I hope it all works out.

 

[Snipe260]

And make sure they are bonded, insured and their workers are vetted.

If permits are applicable make sure they get pulled if not confirm in writing that your insurance company is ok with it and signs off.

Make sure all material is on site before work starts, you don't need to be living under poly tarps being fed he said she said's by the contractor on why he's waiting on material..

And unless you want to clean your bathroom every morning or your ok with them pissing and crapping in your yard they are to provide a portajon no exceptions plus you don't need people casing your house..

The workers need to be presentable, not looking like the heroin addict standing at the off ramp with the cardboard sign looking for work(think house to case) to feed that addiction...

Professionalism is paramount.

No job is to be paid in full up front, half down is more than adequate and final pymt shall not be made (no matter how much they whine) until all permits have been final'd and that your satisfied and not just with the roof that includes job site clean up.

If they trash your gutters they fix them, they rut your lawn they fill it in and reseed it, their vehicles leak oil? they pay for clean up and/or damage to your driveway, etc. If any bullshit like that happens, you have final pymt until you and the contractor can come to an amicable resolution on issues they cause.

You don't need to deal with nails in your vehicle or lawn tractor or a barefoot or a dog paw because they lacked the professionalism to maintain a clean and secure jobsite, they're not going to fix your flats or cover your med bills after they have their money and are gone so the site needs to be maintained.

Make sure you and the contractor are on the same page about everything and it's in writing or recorded and that you don't want anything done that will result with you having to have a "coming to Jesus" meeting with him and/or his employees.

+10 here!

 

[Snipe260]

Never get the highest or lowest bidder! Do your homework on some that are in between!

 

[Tazman]

We used a contractor with a roofing engineer who went to bat for us with the insurance company and ended up getting it all covered including out $1000 deductible. As stated above, do some research and find a reputable company who has dealt with your insurance carrier before.

 

[sid]

Well, I got a quote, architectural shingles, 5900$

I have to say I'm pretty relieved, I was worried that it's more, and I have the cash on hand.

I'm waiting for a second quote and I think ill have to decide on the next step, argue with the insurance or just get it done

 

[LawnMM]

Colorado. House needed a roof when we bought it, was part of the inspection resolutions so we had a new roof on day one. Year later had better than golf ball size hail toast it.

New roof again. Good insurance, though. Received enough funds for a new roof, including upgrade to Class 4 hail resistant shingles, and to paint the house.

Did GAF shingles, done by a master installer, warranty including labor and materials is like 50yr. We'll never get 50 out of it in Colorado but it's nice to know it was done right. New gutters, new flashing. Whole kit and kaboodle.

Wound up being almost a $15k claim.

 

[Codiekfx400]

If your roof is simply wore out and you got money from insurance consider it a gift. Most insurance companies will only pay out for act of god type incidents.

 

[SuckitTrebek]

As with nearly everything in construction. The crew doing the correct job is far more important
than the materials used.

I manage the building of homes for a living and it's astounding on a daily basis the dumb shit that contractors do, from
framers to plumbers to roofers and everywhere in between. Every time I think I have seen it all, I see something else that
just leaves my head shaking.

 

[Eeertewy]

Have you encountered problems with your roof, but you do not have the money to change it? Or you're not sure if its quality is good enough? Well, I got you. I remember that I noticed that my roof was leaking a lot. I didn't wait. I needed help now. I decided to contact a professional roofing replacement company. They replaced my roof. They even added a discount. That really saved me financially and materially. Now I can stay under my roof, knowing I am safe.

 

[Ravenworks]

Have you encountered problems with your roof, but you do not have the money to change it? Or you're not sure if its quality is good enough? Well, I got you. I remember that I noticed that my roof was leaking a lot. I didn't wait. I needed help now. I decided to contact a professional roofing replacement company. They replaced my roof. They even added a discount. That really saved me financially and materially. Now I can stay under my roof, knowing I am safe.

⁰

 

[Maggot]

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side.

Metal and dont look back. Materials may cost a bit more but labor is less.

 

[kenny1773]

I am sure every area is different

I had to replace a roof on my house when I lived in Alabama due to storm damage. The contractor worked the insurance quote to the penny. I got a way better roof than was on there prior. Was totally painless and uninvolved for me. The contractor knew the insurance guys, they worked together daily for years

 

[Sirshredalot]

Holy cripes... you guys are getting off cheap.
I understand this thread predates covid, but for my old farm house, with lots of "junk" to work around was quoted $52k for a steel roof.... and nobody wanted to do it.
Shred

 

[missed]

From the homeowners side, we had a hail storm destroy the comp shingle roof in our last house. Our premiums did not go up on the next renewal, they went up I think 2 years later. Our insurance guy said that everyone in the area went up, not just mine. They were on our butt to get it done within the time frame they stated which I think was 90 days and you had to have a written letter to get an extension. We went back with metal and myself and a buddy did it. Insurance company send an adjuster out after it was done to take a look at it. That was all, pretty easy. That was Farm Bureau Texas. Which we have since switched from as there rates have gotten pretty high.

 

[jrhtx]

contractor here with over 40 yrs experience. Literally hundreds of roofs. The depreciation doesnt' matter. You'll get that back after u fix it , if u have replacement value on ur policy. They hold that out in case u decide to pocket the money and not fix the roof. go with metal, grew up doing shingles and the first 10 years on my own that's all i did. Was forced into doing a metal roof on a remodel, and never looked back. They are not ur grandfathers barn roof!!! They are actually acustical quieter than a shingle roof, retract heat better, ( shingles are made of asphalt, asphalt attracts heat and conducts it) so it will keep ur attic cooler, thus reducing electrical cost running an AC. U and probably ur grandkids will never replace it again. Will withstand wind better, 4 to 5x better against hail. Can actually b installed over existing shingles if u prefer. Doesn't hurt the warranty. Good quality metal has a 20yr paint warranty. My home i built myself is a $400,000 home i built in 2002. The roof has withstood multiple hail, something we get a lot of here in Nebraska, wind, storms, nothing bothers it and it still looks as good as the day i installed it. I could have used anything , but with my years of experience , i was going to use nothing else. Also in the winter it will shed a snow load much sooner than a shingle roof. Why do u think that's all they use for the most part in the mountains. Almost all log homes u look at will have a metal roof. Go down thru Arizona, Texas, etc. if it's not a tile roof, it's metal. And we're talking 1/2 mil dollar homes and up. Metal will also cost less and u could even do it yourself, saving u having a contractor do it. A 24 sq. roof can b installed very easily in a day. Argue all u want, i've got years of experience on my side

I will have to respectfully disagree on cost. Metal will cost you 2x+ a shingle roof. I had my 2400 sqft "L" shape 1 story house done about 8 years ago. All quotes were at least 2x shingle. I would bet that metal is way more than that today. This was out in the country, they had a guy show up with a truck and trailer and he rolled and cut all pieces on site. Took him 4-5 hours to finish the cut sheet.

 

[Balor]

Hi all,

So my roof is done, it's leaking a lot.
I called insurance, and after they reviewed everything the send me a check and a calculation

7000$ cost for the new roof
1900$ subtract for depreciation
1500$ deductibleso that leaves me with 3866$

Yesterday I had a contractor looking at the roof, he is preparing a qoute, he already said the 2 turbine type vents need to go, and no one uses aluminum ridge vents anymore.

We found some areas where the wood needs to be replaced because it's rotten and is soft ( it's not plywood)

Anyway the insurance mentioned that if the cost is more than their calculation I need to submit that cost before work starts.

So my questions are
Does the depreciation sounds right?
Anything I should pay attention to with a new roof?
Should I pay extra to get manufactured shingles?


The current shingles are 25 year 3 tab shingles and the roof is 24.8 sq.
Location is south east Tennessee

How much have you paid in for your insurance?

 

[RonA]

$7k for a new roof? I got a quote last year for one and it was about double that. Fortunately the guys said mine would last a few more years. I paid $8k for metal (fake tile look) 35 years ago.

 

[Redmanss]

Hello. I have a leak, almost certainly due to a problem with the lead valley gutter behind my chimney. The minimum repair would be to replace the lead and the timber supporting it, though in an ideal world, I'd probably have all the flashing replaced and the chimney re-pointed. The roof is 80 years old, but its corrugated inter-locking Marley tiles, with a felt under-lay, which is in generally good condition, so might last a few more decades before needing to be completely re-roofed. I reckon the minimum amount of lead valley gutter repairs, could be done by a pair of roofers in half a day, so could cost £500 - £1000, or if they deem that scaffolding is required, then £1500 - £2000. I have minimal home insurance from LV and my annual premiums are about £60 per year. I guess if I make a claim, my premiums will go up? If I switch to another insurer upon renewal, would I need to declare that I've made a claim? Or do insurers share this information within the industry? Also the lead valley gutter spans both sides of the party wall, though the leak is only on my side. Is an insurer likely to spot that its a semi, and likely to ask the neighbour's insurer to pay half of the cost? I will be getting the work done with or without the insurance claim, just wondering on what's the most prudent approach? Many thanks in advance for any insights

Your profile says United States, but your post has costs in British Pounds. Are you the dumbest or the laziest spammer around? Do you post you’re straight while cruising Grindr?

 

[acudaowner]

keep the jar of Vaseline petroleum jelly close at hand for both insurance and the new roof it's going to hurt other wise .
remember to keep breathing between the tears lol

 

[Bigfatcock]

Hello. I have a leak, almost certainly due to a problem with the lead valley gutter behind my chimney. The minimum repair would be to replace the lead and the timber supporting it, though in an ideal world, I'd probably have all the flashing replaced and the chimney re-pointed. The roof is 80 years old, but its corrugated inter-locking Marley tiles, with a felt under-lay, which is in generally good condition, so might last a few more decades before needing to be completely re-roofed. I reckon the minimum amount of lead valley gutter repairs, could be done by a pair of roofers in half a day, so could cost £500 - £1000, or if they deem that scaffolding is required, then £1500 - £2000. I have minimal home insurance from LV and my annual premiums are about £60 per year. I guess if I make a claim, my premiums will go up? If I switch to another insurer upon renewal, would I need to declare that I've made a claim? Or do insurers share this information within the industry? Also the lead valley gutter spans both sides of the party wall, though the leak is only on my side. Is an insurer likely to spot that its a semi, and likely to ask the neighbour's insurer to pay half of the cost? I will be getting the work done with or without the insurance claim, just wondering on what's the most prudent approach? Many thanks in advance for any insights

I gave your mom shingles.