Ruger 10/22 based NRL22 build recommendations

[Mr. Wolf]

As much as I’d like to buy a Kidd or Volquartsen rifle, I don’t have the funds currently and I don’t mind building things that I can use. It gives me a better understanding of the system and joy that comes with crafting something functional and unique. I realize that it may cost more in the long run, especially if there are fitment and non-warrantee issues, but I thought I’d ask the rimfire gurus here.

If you were building a NRA22 rifle based on the Ruger 10/22, what parts would contribute most to accuracy in descending order? (not including match grade ammo, shooter training, accessories, rails, bipod, rings or optics)
My starting point is a Ruger 10/22 Scout with a basic wooden stock and a Volquartsen target hammer/trigger spring kit at 2lbs3oz.

My uninformed guess would be:
1. Match grade barrel
2. Bolt assembly / firing pin
3. Trigger group
4. Receiver
5. Chassis

What are your recommendations and experiences?
Is building a 10/22 based rifle for NRL22 even a consideration with today‘s excellent selection of bolt action 22s?

Thank you and I look forward to learning from your insights.
MW

 

[littlepod]

I haven't seen anyone competitive run a 10/22. Even those running a Kidd Supergrade, ended up selling them for investment in some bolt platform.

You'd end up doing far better just getting like a CZ 457 At-One.

But if you want to go down the 10/22 route, there's a million parts and opinions out there that people can chime in on.

 

[Redfisher60]

I haven't seen anyone competitive run a 10/22. Even those running a Kidd Supergrade, ended up selling them for investment in some bolt platform.

You'd end up doing far better just getting like a CZ 457 At-One.

But if you want to go down the 10/22 route, there's a million parts and opinions out there that people can chime in on.

Yeah what he said. 10/22s just are not competitive (and I did go the Kidd Supergrade route). MDs/RO hate them becasue it is difficult to verify they are safe between positions, as opposed to bolts where you can verify the bolt is open. CZ or Tikka is the way to go.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

When precision rimfire matches were getting started locally, I only had my lightly modified Ruger 10/22 to use so I that's what I used and made adjustments as necessary. I did decently that first year and since then I've done pretty well with that 10/22, last year I placed 2nd overall in semi-auto division and 9th overall this year with a match win. I think in good hands they're a capable system and to date I haven't gotten any grief over the safety on to move issue. Basically, don't be a doofus while handling the rifle and it's likely they won't say anything at all.

My 10/22 is pretty simple and some say it shouldn't shoot as good as it does so your mileage may vary.

Stock Ruger 10/22 Receiver
Volquartsen bolt (price table pick up)
EGW 20 MOA base
Ruger BX Trigger w/ Volquartsen auto bolt release
Green Mountain 18" .920 barrel
Volquartsen V-Block
Volquartsen action screw
Victor Company Titan 10/22 stock w/ cheek piece
Nightforce 3.5-15X50 F1 in Burris XTR Signature rings.

I shoot Eley Force primarily but SK Long Range does well too.

So, if you have the 10/22, it may be worth it to build it out and use to get your feet wet and decide which direction you want to go.

 

[littlepod]

When precision rimfire matches were getting started locally, I only had my lightly modified Ruger 10/22 to use so I that's what I used and made adjustments as necessary. I did decently that first year and since then I've done pretty well with that 10/22, last year I placed 2nd overall in semi-auto division and 9th overall this year with a match win. I think in good hands they're a capable system and to date I haven't gotten any grief over the safety on to move issue. Basically, don't be a doofus while handling the rifle and it's likely they won't say anything at all.

My 10/22 is pretty simple and some say it shouldn't shoot as good as it does so your mileage may vary.

Stock Ruger 10/22 Receiver
Volquartsen bolt (price table pick up)
EGW 20 MOA base
Ruger BX Trigger w/ Volquartsen auto bolt release
Green Mountain 18" .920 barrel
Volquartsen V-Block
Volquartsen action screw
Victor Company Titan 10/22 stock w/ cheek piece
Nightforce 3.5-15X50 F1 in Burris XTR Signature rings.

I shoot Eley Force primarily but SK Long Range does well too.

So, if you have the 10/22, it may be worth it to build it out and use to get your feet wet and decide which direction you want to go.

I had a Tikka T1X that I sold to pay for my Vudoo. During the time I was waiting for my Vudoo to build, I ended up shooting two NRL22 competitions with the factory Ruger 10/22 Custom Shop model that I bought for my wife for $650. It comes with a BX trigger and shot pretty well out of the box. I ended up winning both matches with it, made me wonder why I bought a Vudoo

For $650 out of the box ready to go, if you can find the 10/22 Custom Shop Competition model, it's pretty sweet deal.

 

[MarkCZ]

As much as I’d like to buy a Kidd or Volquartsen rifle, I don’t have the funds currently and I don’t mind building things that I can use. It gives me a better understanding of the system and joy that comes with crafting something functional and unique. I realize that it may cost more in the long run, especially if there are fitment and non-warrantee issues, but I thought I’d ask the rimfire gurus here.

If you were building a NRA22 rifle based on the Ruger 10/22, what parts would contribute most to accuracy in descending order? (not including match grade ammo, shooter training, accessories, rails, bipod, rings or optics)
My starting point is a Ruger 10/22 Scout with a basic wooden stock and a Volquartsen target hammer/trigger spring kit at 2lbs3oz.

My uninformed guess would be:
1. Match grade barrel
2. Bolt assembly / firing pin
3. Trigger group
4. Receiver
5. Chassis

What are your recommendations and experiences?
Is building a 10/22 based rifle for NRL22 even a consideration with today‘s excellent selection of bolt action 22s?

Thank you and I look forward to learning from your insights.
MW

First would be the Kidd barrel, you have a receiver, trigger group, and bolt assembly. I would get a Kidd guide rod and springs. Do you have extended mag release? if not get one. Chassis I would go with a Titan.
I built a few 10-22's. I had a Kidd 2 stage and a titan stock on one of them. I finally ordered a Kidd Supergrade barreled action. moved the trigger and put in the Titan stock with Titan's rear anchor.
Go to Kidd's site a add it all up before start going down the 10-22 rabbit hole. for just a little more you can get the best.
Or you can get a Tikka T1X for less than $500. Shoots as well as my Supergrade.
Mark

 

[Redfisher60]

First would be the Kidd barrel, you have a receiver, trigger group, and bolt assembly. I would get a Kidd guide rod and springs. Do you have extended mag release? if not get one. Chassis I would go with a Titan.
I built a few 10-22's. I had a Kidd 2 stage and a titan stock on one of them. I finally ordered a Kidd Supergrade barreled action. moved the trigger and put in the Titan stock with Titan's rear anchor.
Go to Kidd's site a add it all up before start going down the 10-22 rabbit hole. for just a little more you can get the best.
Or you can get a Tikka T1X for less than $500. Shoots as well as my Supergrade.
Mark

That would look a ltttle like this

 

[Ruff 364]

I have ran 10/22's since the inception of the NRL22. It was, but it's not a competitive platform in open class anymore. You can be in base until you move up. Then it's Rim X and Vudoo territory, of which I am currently building a Rim X.

I have four 10/22's, from a stock rifle to a heavily modified TacSol receiver. The main parts to change out are IMO:

1) Bolt release (Factory lawyers should be kicked in the nuts)
2) Barrel
3) Trigger (KIDD 2 stage is awesome)

The 10/22 platform suffers from mag issues and first shot flyers. I've done a ton of tinkering with the first shot flyer thing and it was never solved. My opinion is it stems from the seating difference from the NRL rule of chambering the first round via spring vs recoil loading.

 

[Sc0-]

If your just starting off, do what the above poster said and get a Ruger Competition model that will allow you to shoot in BASE CLASS. For the investment and being a factory configured option, it's hard to beat. Have built 3ea 10/22's, one for NRL Open and most times I can't outshoot it. If RSO has issues verifying the safety then they could be a personal prejudice. I prefer the semiauto for uncomfortable positions.
With the December Match I still timed out the same as the bolt guys did but the weak side stage was pretty quick just by pulling the trigger vs a more awkward bolt manipulation.

Fedderson Bronze receiver
Fedderson 17" Heavy Taper barrel
Kidd 8/8 2stg trigger
VQ Bolt assembly
Magpul X22 stock (before KRG option)

Eyeballing an upcoming match that extends to 300yds and will be running a bolt gun for that one, need all the help I can get.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I haven't seen anyone competitive run a 10/22. Even those running a Kidd Supergrade, ended up selling them for investment in some bolt platform.

You'd end up doing far better just getting like a CZ 457 At-One.

But if you want to go down the 10/22 route, there's a million parts and opinions out there that people can chime in on.

Thank you for the response. Agree with the CZ 457 route. I have a Pro Varmint model and it shoots lights out.
The semi-auto build would mainly be for fun and for family and friends to shoot in a match with me if interested.

I agree that there may be a more accurate and sometimes cheaper way and I don't think that this is necessarily the best "bang for your buck" but the learning process sure is fun. Thank you for your advice.

Cheers,

 

[Mr. Wolf]

When precision rimfire matches were getting started locally, I only had my lightly modified Ruger 10/22 to use so I that's what I used and made adjustments as necessary. I did decently that first year and since then I've done pretty well with that 10/22, last year I placed 2nd overall in semi-auto division and 9th overall this year with a match win. I think in good hands they're a capable system and to date I haven't gotten any grief over the safety on to move issue. Basically, don't be a doofus while handling the rifle and it's likely they won't say anything at all.

My 10/22 is pretty simple and some say it shouldn't shoot as good as it does so your mileage may vary.

Stock Ruger 10/22 Receiver
Volquartsen bolt (price table pick up)
EGW 20 MOA base
Ruger BX Trigger w/ Volquartsen auto bolt release
Green Mountain 18" .920 barrel
Volquartsen V-Block
Volquartsen action screw
Victor Company Titan 10/22 stock w/ cheek piece
Nightforce 3.5-15X50 F1 in Burris XTR Signature rings.

I shoot Eley Force primarily but SK Long Range does well too.

So, if you have the 10/22, it may be worth it to build it out and use to get your feet wet and decide which direction you want to go.

Appreciate your inputs. I like the concept and it is something I can gradually get built up.
BX trigger and bolt release mod already complete.
I've been pleased with the Voltquartsen pieces from what I've seen on my father-in-law's Ruger pistols.

To me it makes sense to stick to one brand or other for aftermarket parts, but are you aware of any issues if putting in a Kidd bolt with a Voltquartsen barrel or vice-a-versa?

Also looks like KRG, Boyds, Victor, MDT, Oryx etc are starting to come onboard with higher-end stocks so I'll probably use that as the last piece of the puzzle.

Good stuff, keep it coming. Thank you.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

First would be the Kidd barrel, you have a receiver, trigger group, and bolt assembly. I would get a Kidd guide rod and springs. Do you have extended mag release? if not get one. Chassis I would go with a Titan.
I built a few 10-22's. I had a Kidd 2 stage and a titan stock on one of them. I finally ordered a Kidd Supergrade barreled action. moved the trigger and put in the Titan stock with Titan's rear anchor.
Go to Kidd's site a add it all up before start going down the 10-22 rabbit hole. for just a little more you can get the best.
Or you can get a Tikka T1X for less than $500. Shoots as well as my Supergrade.
Mark

Thank you. I've read about the Kidd barrels and they are tempting, even at their price.
In your experience, do you think that the Kidd bolt group adds to the accuracy of the system? Some AR-15 builders sell bolt and barrel together to maximize precision potential.
100% agree that this is a rabbit hole, especially moving forward piece by piece but I quite enjoy tinkering.
Cheers,

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I have ran 10/22's since the inception of the NRL22. It was, but it's not a competitive platform in open class anymore. You can be in base until you move up. Then it's Rim X and Vudoo territory, of which I am currently building a Rim X.

I have four 10/22's, from a stock rifle to a heavily modified TacSol receiver. The main parts to change out are IMO:

1) Bolt release (Factory lawyers should be kicked in the nuts)
2) Barrel
3) Trigger (KIDD 2 stage is awesome)

The 10/22 platform suffers from mag issues and first shot flyers. I've done a ton of tinkering with the first shot flyer thing and it was never solved. My opinion is it stems from the seating difference from the NRL rule of chambering the first round via spring vs recoil loading.

Thank you for the prioritized upgrade path recommendation.
Interesting point on the closed vs open chamber loading. I agree that less change in feeding the cartridge will improve precision consistency.
Although it will chew up time, I am unaware of any rules prohibiting releasing the mag, closing the bolt, re-inserting the mag and racking the bolt after the beep.

Could you expand on which barrel you went with and why? TIA.
Cheers,

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I had a Tikka T1X that I sold to pay for my Vudoo. During the time I was waiting for my Vudoo to build, I ended up shooting two NRL22 competitions with the factory Ruger 10/22 Custom Shop model that I bought for my wife for $650. It comes with a BX trigger and shot pretty well out of the box. I ended up winning both matches with it, made me wonder why I bought a Vudoo

For $650 out of the box ready to go, if you can find the 10/22 Custom Shop Competition model, it's pretty sweet deal.

Great point on the 10/22 Custom Shop Comp littlepod.
Looks like you had a .925" group at 100 on the 6x5, which should be competitive enough for most NRL22 stages.
Besides scopes and accessories, did your rifle have anything additional to how it left the factory? TIA.
Cheers,

 

[Mr. Wolf]

If your just starting off, do what the above poster said and get a Ruger Competition model that will allow you to shoot in BASE CLASS. For the investment and being a factory configured option, it's hard to beat. Have built 3ea 10/22's, one for NRL Open and most times I can't outshoot it. If RSO has issues verifying the safety then they could be a personal prejudice. I prefer the semiauto for uncomfortable positions.
With the December Match I still timed out the same as the bolt guys did but the weak side stage was pretty quick just by pulling the trigger vs a more awkward bolt manipulation.

Fedderson Bronze receiver
Fedderson 17" Heavy Taper barrel
Kidd 8/8 2stg trigger
VQ Bolt assembly
Magpul X22 stock (before KRG option)

Eyeballing an upcoming match that extends to 300yds and will be running a bolt gun for that one, need all the help I can get.

Nice specs on your build.
How accurately is your rifle at 100 yards? Do you see any performance degradation past 100 yards compared to your bolt action?
I've read that even minor bullet deformation can amplify inaccuracies as distance increases.
This 22LR discipline is a bit of black magic to me but trying to learn as much as I can.
TIA and cheers,

 

[Tiger_Shilone]

You want to stay low budget and reliable send it to Randy at Connecticut Precision Chambering and get the full works tune package around $200. He will 1)fix all issues with the factory bolt group, 2)make the trigger pack work properly with an autobolt release, fix trigger pull and reset, full trigger job and 3) crown and rechamber barrel properly.

His work might even make the factory barrel into a 1/2” wonder but definitely wont hurt it. Reliability for my stock 10/22 went up considerably, accuracy stayed the same. Ruger barrels tend to average on the lower side of the accuracy lottery curve from my experience.

However, I still don’t trust any 10/22 based action enough to use them in a match anymore, including my KIDDs. Nothing like having a perfect sight in session and warm up only to have the rifle jam for what ever reason in the middle of a timed string of fire

 

[littlepod]

Great point on the 10/22 Custom Shop Comp littlepod.
Looks like you had a .925" group at 100 on the 6x5, which should be competitive enough for most NRL22 stages.
Besides scopes and accessories, did your rifle have anything additional to how it left the factory? TIA.
Cheers,

Eventually I put an oryx chassis on it and an arca rail since I had an MDT ACC for my other rifles. The KRG Bravo 10/22 wasn't out yet, so the Oryx was the only real option I had. I'd probably try out the KRG Bravo if I had the same choice today mainly because the Oryx chassis is really butt heavy (meant for like centerfire rifles).

 

[hlee]

I did the math. You’re money ahead buying a Kidd supergrade. They can run with the top 10 anywhere (given an equally competent shooter), but just. If you want to “be competitive” you can be that with a Kidd. If you want to hedge your bets because you want to WIN, buy a vudoo. That’s from a Kidd owner.

 

[Sagittarius]

I ordered one of Joe Chacon's custom 10/22 builds; the only Ruger part on it is the 10 shot magazine.
It has the following...

Tactical Innovations stainless steel receiver with built-in Picatinny rail
KIDD 2 stage trigger
CST Power Custom bolt
24" Douglas Barrel
Joe's own J&L Tuner
Accurate Rifle Systems chassis stock with their vertical grip

At the time, I ordered the rifle to shoot KYL matches to save time over a bolt gun since the matches are timed but ended up using it to shoot ABRA targets off a bench since it's very heavy and is very accurate.
My next rifle will be either a Vudoo or RimX though as I like them a lot too.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Eventually I put an oryx chassis on it and an arca rail since I had an MDT ACC for my other rifles. The KRG Bravo 10/22 wasn't out yet, so the Oryx was the only real option I had. I'd probably try out the KRG Bravo if I had the same choice today mainly because the Oryx chassis is really butt heavy (meant for like centerfire rifles).

Thanks. was also thinking about the Oryx, but if the balance is off, it might be better to look elsewhere.
Good stuff! Cheers

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I ordered one of Joe Chacon's custom 10/22 builds; the only Ruger part on it is the 10 shot magazine.
It has the following...

Tactical Innovations stainless steel receiver with built-in Picatinny rail
KIDD 2 stage trigger
CST Power Custom bolt
24" Douglas Barrel
Joe's own J&L Tuner
Accurate Rifle Systems chassis stock with their vertical grip

At the time, I ordered the rifle to shoot KYL matches to save time over a bolt gun since the matches are timed but ended up using it to shoot ABRA targets off a bench since it's very heavy and is very accurate.
My next rifle will be either a Vudoo or RimX though as I like them a lot too.

View attachment 7515120

Beautiful setup. To each is own, but I like variety so a bolt action and semi-autos both have a place in my heart.
I really appreciate the first hand experience,please keep them coming.
Cheers,

 

[MarkCZ]

Thank you. I've read about the Kidd barrels and they are tempting, even at their price.
In your experience, do you think that the Kidd bolt group adds to the accuracy of the system? Some AR-15 builders sell bolt and barrel together to maximize precision potential.
100% agree that this is a rabbit hole, especially moving forward piece by piece but I quite enjoy tinkering.
Cheers,

I don't think the bolt replacement adds to accuracy, but to reliability. Don't try to save money on your barrel, get the best (Kidd IMO). The maximize precision potential will be a Kidd barrel and Kidd action with a rear anchor. Then you have 2 action screws, not one.

Mark

 

[Ruff 364]

Thank you for the prioritized upgrade path recommendation.
Interesting point on the closed vs open chamber loading. I agree that less change in feeding the cartridge will improve precision consistency.
Although it will chew up time, I am unaware of any rules prohibiting releasing the mag, closing the bolt, re-inserting the mag and racking the bolt after the beep.

Could you expand on which barrel you went with and why? TIA.
Cheers,

I have three KIDD barrels and one Green Mountain. The GM is more accurate with it's preferred ammo. They are consistently shoot ok with most brands of match ammo but each has a preference. I averaged them based on cost vs group size and just ran CCI Green Tag in matches. It was cost effective and shot well enough for NRL22 and I saw no need for $20 a box ammo or cool guy status.

Time is a factor. NRL 22 rules require autos locked back on empty chamber to start. If you change out the bolt release you can pull the bolt to the rear then let it go. Fighting the stupid factory latch is always a time killer and sometimes a safety issue with a newer shooter.

Closing the bolt, pulling mag and re-racking won't help the 10/22 issue but it will chew up a lot of time. I am convinced on some guns that the manual release along with spring feeding does not allow the first round to seat the same and causes the first round flyers. I did extensive testing to try to eliminate this problem to no avail. Changing springs and bolts did not fix it. The Tac Sol bolt is a different animal, it has two guide rods and springs. This eliminates binding some 10/22's get and is way smoother to operate.

I numbered all my magazines and tried shooting 10 shot groups with single loading NRL 22 style and there was no consistency. First round could be as much as .5 mil off at 50 yards and you couldn't predict where it would go.

I keep logs of matches each month and track total rounds, hit percentages etc. I can guarantee on a stage with a first target 1" or less it was 60% chance the first shot was a miss regardless of position shot from. If it was under 1" it was 95% a miss.

The 10/22 is a great gun and millions have been sold. However it is a 1950's design and never intended to be a precision platform. It is a great cheap gun to start with, and the NRL 22 has probably caused more parts to be purchased than other disciplines. It is amazing how the 22 precision sport has progressed since it started.

Have fun with it and just keep in mind if you get bit by the sport, you will end up with a $2.5K or more 22 LR in the future. =]

 

[NewsShooter]

If your just starting off, do what the above poster said and get a Ruger Competition model that will allow you to shoot in BASE CLASS. For the investment and being a factory configured option, it's hard to beat. Have built 3ea 10/22's, one for NRL Open and most times I can't outshoot it. If RSO has issues verifying the safety then they could be a personal prejudice. I prefer the semiauto for uncomfortable positions.
With the December Match I still timed out the same as the bolt guys did but the weak side stage was pretty quick just by pulling the trigger vs a more awkward bolt manipulation.

Fedderson Bronze receiver
Fedderson 17" Heavy Taper barrel
Kidd 8/8 2stg trigger
VQ Bolt assembly
Magpul X22 stock (before KRG option)

Eyeballing an upcoming match that extends to 300yds and will be running a bolt gun for that one, need all the help I can get.

I'd like to build another one using the Feddersen Bronze receiver. But I already have 5 10/22's, none of them are stock, most of them don't even have ruger parts. If you like building you can build one for the cost of the ruger competition model. Brownell's had receivers recently as well.

 

[hlee]

If your kidd barrel is shooting 1st round shots up to 1/2 mil off POA, you need to rethink your ammo. I know that everyone wants to brag about how their gun shoots Golden bullets as well as Midas +, but that is mostly internet BS amd/or insufficient testing. My Kidd shoots CenterX- not lot tested, but not necessarily mixed lot- into the same ragged 0.5” group (outside edge to outside edge, indoor 50 yard range) so long as I have a sufficiently precise aim point to use. A 50 yard KYL (1/4” final target) is literally child’s play in modest wind- I’ve watched both of my boys clean them on the clock at matches.

I really don’t think that a top shooter would be hampered with my Kidd, and that many shoot bolt guns, because they shoot bolt guns...

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Thank you all for your inputs and experiences. It's one of the reasons why I enjoy this board/forum more so than other websites where fuddery rules the day.

MarkCZ - thanks for the G2 on the bolt. For me reliability equals accuracy/precision on timed stages. I didn't realize there were 2 action screw options for Ruger variant receivers. I'll have to look into that and will have to get the stock/chassis that will be compatible vs. going all in for a Kidd rifle.... hmmm.

Ruff 364 - thanks for sharing your experiences with NRL22. Your experience with various barrels also makes me wonder if a complete rifle might be a more "sane" way to proceed. At my local NRL22 shoots, I observed that 10/22 type rifles are competitive in <150-yard stages but bolt actions rule the day as stages go past 200 yards.

NewShooter - agree with the strange allure of building rifles, it's like potato chips, you can't have just one. Today I completed a BRN22-TD build for my son. Ran 100 rounds through it as a function check and ran bulk and subsonic ammo well. We are stoked to take it to the range on new years day.

Hlee - are you running the Kidd Supergrade? I'd like to source and gradually build, but if the stimulus check comes through, I just might have to buy a Supergrade "for my wife," cough, cough, sputter, sputter.

Appreciate all your feedback and real-world experiences. I'll continue to read and learn. Thank you and a Happy New Year to all.

 

[hlee]

Hlee - are you running the Kidd Supergrade? I'd like to source and gradually build, but if the stimulus check comes through, I just might have to buy a Supergrade "for my wife," cough, cough, sputter, sputter.

Appreciate all your feedback and real-world experiences. I'll continue to read and learn. Thank you and a Happy New Year to all.

Yes, Supergrade. May I suggest buying a SuperGrade “for your kid,” cough cough?

 

[NewsShooter]

Thank you all for your inputs and experiences. It's one of the reasons why I enjoy this board/forum more so than other websites where fuddery rules the day.

MarkCZ - thanks for the G2 on the bolt. For me reliability equals accuracy/precision on timed stages. I didn't realize there were 2 action screw options for Ruger variant receivers. I'll have to look into that and will have to get the stock/chassis that will be compatible vs. going all in for a Kidd rifle.... hmmm.

Appreciate all your feedback and real-world experiences. I'll continue to read and learn. Thank you and a Happy New Year to all.

I've added rear anchors to my wood stocks using this method that indexes with the cleaning hole in the back of the receiver, https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182746&highlight=cleaning+hole+anchor. I used a brass screw but it works really well. Titan has a variant of this with their spike anchor.

 

[Tacteng]

I have won 2 matches with my Kidd 10/22, bettering Vudoo's each time. Most jams come from the magazines so clean them well before each match.

I also have two CZ Rifles, a 455 and 457 in Onyx stocks. They are very accurate but I just prefer the Kidd.

The only Rimfire that would cause me to start running a bolt gun, would be a Vudoo though. I have shot a couple of them and they are sweet.

 

[irishman]

I like the feddersen barrels a lot. For an economic option they’re tough to beat. Mine is roughly half minute with CCI standard velocity. I have trouble keeping up with it.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I have won 2 matches with my Kidd 10/22, bettering Vudoo's each time. Most jams come from the magazines so clean them well before each match.

I also have two CZ Rifles, a 455 and 457 in Onyx stocks. They are very accurate but I just prefer the Kidd.

The only Rimfire that would cause me to start running a bolt gun, would be a Vudoo though. I have shot a couple of them and they are sweet.

Happy New Year!

Tacteng- Thank you. Good G2.

It appears that a complete Kidd build may be the time and $ efficient path... or maybe working on tightening the nut behind the trigger (me).
The weather's too nasty for the range today. Hopefully, I'll get some lead downrange this weekend.

Cheers,

 

[hlee]

Happy New Year!

Tacteng- Thank you. Good G2.

It appears that a complete Kidd build may be the time and $ efficient path... or maybe working on tightening the nut behind the trigger (me).
The weather's too nasty for the range today. Hopefully, I'll get some lead downrange this weekend.

Cheers,

I love my Kidd, but you’re probably not going to do any better than the target you posted In the 6x5 thread. Good shooting...

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I love my Kidd, but you’re probably not going to do any better than the target you posted In the 6x5 thread. Good shooting...

Hlee - do you know what the gentleman at the 7:40 mark on this video Is shooting? What ever it is, it is fast and accurate! Looks like a Kidd barrel and possibly a Kidd receiver and an aftermarket chassis to me...

Cheers,

 

[darth_ritis]

If you were building a NRA22 rifle based on the Ruger 10/22, what parts would contribute most to accuracy in descending order?

What are your recommendations and experiences?
Is building a 10/22 based rifle for NRL22 even a consideration with today‘s excellent selection of bolt action 22s?

Thank you and I look forward to learning from your insights.
MW

For consistent accuracy, I would recommend a Kidd barrel with the Kidd mounting hardware, then a stock/chassis that fits you well, then trigger. The bolt and all that won't help with accuracy, but may help as I describe below.

As far as experiences go, I ran 10/22 for the first two years of NRL22. I led my club the first year with a Ruger build and the second year with a Kidd Supergrade, probably winning a dozen matches in 2 years and going to Nationals with my Kidd. The accuracy is there, or it was until Vudoo came along. Today the stages are more challenging and the targets smaller, making it difficult for a 10/22 to keep up.

Semi-auto has some advantages, for sure, especially when the par time for a difficult stage is the biggest challenge for bolt action shooters. The down sides for me were the action getting dirty and not cycling or feeding quite right toward the end of a long match. Also, cold weather would mess with the action cycle speed. Proper cleaning and lubrication are critical, as is matching the recoil spring to the ammo so that it cycles reliably in all weather conditions. The Kidd spring kit and guide rod help a lot there. Cleaning your magazines and keeping proper spring tension are also key maintenance items.

My eventual transition to bolt action was driven by three things. 1) Limited stock/chassis options, 2) cleaning is a pain, especially the Kidd, and 3) a 10/22 is one of the few guns at the match that seemed annoyingly loud. A range full of suppressed bolt actions shooting subsonic match ammo is a wonderfully quiet experience, no hearing protection needed. Even suppressed, a 10/22 is loud for a lefty.

I'm tempted to put a KRG Bravo on my Kidd and run that again just to try it, since being competitive isn't really in reach for me anymore.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

For consistent accuracy, I would recommend a Kidd barrel with the Kidd mounting hardware, then a stock/chassis that fits you well, then trigger. The bolt and all that won't help with accuracy, but may help as I describe below.

As far as experiences go, I ran 10/22 for the first two years of NRL22. I led my club the first year with a Ruger build and the second year with a Kidd Supergrade, probably winning a dozen matches in 2 years and going to Nationals with my Kidd. The accuracy is there, or it was until Vudoo came along. Today the stages are more challenging and the targets smaller, making it difficult for a 10/22 to keep up.

Semi-auto has some advantages, for sure, especially when the par time for a difficult stage is the biggest challenge for bolt action shooters. The down sides for me were the action getting dirty and not cycling or feeding quite right toward the end of a long match. Also, cold weather would mess with the action cycle speed. Proper cleaning and lubrication are critical, as is matching the recoil spring to the ammo so that it cycles reliably in all weather conditions. The Kidd spring kit and guide rod help a lot there. Cleaning your magazines and keeping proper spring tension are also key maintenance items.

My eventual transition to bolt action was driven by three things. 1) Limited stock/chassis options, 2) cleaning is a pain, especially the Kidd, and 3) a 10/22 is one of the few guns at the match that seemed annoyingly loud. A range full of suppressed bolt actions shooting subsonic match ammo is a wonderfully quiet experience, no hearing protection needed. Even suppressed, a 10/22 is loud for a lefty.

I'm tempted to put a KRG Bravo on my Kidd and run that again just to try it, since being competitive isn't really in reach for me anymore.

holdstillplease- I really appreciate the perspective from your competition experience.
It seems to me that there is a point of diminishing return for the semi-auto 22 Lr builds, especially as targets get smaller and ranges get longer.
I’ve also seen more functioning issues towards the end of the stages. As for the temp related stuff, not an issue here in lower Alabama/ Florida panhandle.
Thank you for your contributions to the community’s and my knowledge.
Cheers,

 

[Sagittarius]

hsp, I, too, had trouble with my Chacon 10/22 build getting dirty towards the end of a shooting session and starting to jam.
I read where a guy on YouTube recommended mixing Mobil 1 10W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic motor oil with Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid half and half and using the mixture for lubricant.
I bought one quart of each and mixed them as instructed.
My 10/22 Chacon and all my semi-auto 22 rimfire handguns have ran much better since and go much longer without jams.
Of course, you need to clean them well after each session but that's a given anyway with semi-auto.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Thank you for your insights and recommendations.
I enjoy tinkering and find enjoyment in building something that can punch above its $$ class.
Pending barrel delivery, assembly, break-in, and precision testing.

Rifle:
Kidd 16.5" fluted & threaded barrel - $185 (used)
Victor Co Titan22 stock with Spike rear anchor, front Picatinny rail, cheek riser - $259
Stock Ruger receiver and bolt - $235 (10/22 Scout model not used much)
Stock Ruger trigger pack with Volquartsen Target hammer and spring - $38
Bubba'd auto bolt release mod and nylon rear bolt pin - $1
Total 10/22 build - $718 (minus ~$80 recouped cost of selling original stock and barrel? guestimated total ~$638)

Optics:
temporary: Arken SH4 6-24x 50 gen 2 to test accuracy/precision + Arken 34mm medium rings - $459
long term: depends on the outcome of the accuracy/precision tests - $???

More to follow.

YMMV and happy shooting

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Range update:
Kidd ultra lightweight barrel 16.5” threaded, Titan22 stock, Primary Arms 3-18x 50, UTG bipod
Prone with bipod and rear bag @ 50 yards, 4-8 MPH winds from 1 o’clock. 45 F climbing to 57 F.

Shot various ammo for function and getting used to the ACSS reticle on a scope I took off on a Ruger American Predator 6.5CM. A few stove pipes initially, but zero after the first 100 shots. Total rounds 250.
I followed the Kidd website instructions to clean the shoulder of the receiver and removed the paint there. I also Scotchbrited the overspray in the inside of the receiver.
The barrel was chilled in the freezer overnight and the receiver heated with a hairdryer for 2 minutes. With just a small amount of anti-seize, the barrel slid in 1/2 way with some firm pressure. The extractor alignment and v-block and receiver were leveled and aligned. Then 3 firm whacks with a rubber mallet seated the barrel nicely.

The Victor Co Titan22 stock is sturdy but light. The rear flush cup sling points rattled, but a dab of superglue fix the minor annoyance easily. The Titan22 spike receiver anchor was easy to install and there is zero teeter-totter or lateral movement after installation.

After assembly, the safety, bolt catch, magazine release, and dry fire worked flawlessly. Upon inspection of the barrel, it does not sit perfectly aligned to the stock’s fore-end. I looked at the Victor Co website and this is a known issue related to the receiver barrel mounting hole on the Ruger 10/22s. The barrel is still free floated and passes the dollar bill test, but if I did it all over again, it may be worth getting a Brownell receiver and building off of that. In my sample of 1 for the BRN-22 takedown, the anodizing is much cleaner than the black paint on the Ruger along with excellent machining and tighter tolerances.

Below are some photos of how she sits today. Please excuse the Beartooth neoprene cheek riser. I will likely upgrade the scope and bipod and I did not want to drill and mount the Titan cheek riser until I get an extended rail set up for the right eye relief. Current weight = 8.08 lbs with balance at the magazine well.

Below are the groups while seasoning the barrel and also the best cherry picked groups of the day.

Promising groups, and easy to stay on target for follow up shots. I was able to see 75% of the shots drop in.

3rd best group: SK rifle match, 6x5 avg = .741”, best = .464". (disregard MOA numbers... I forgot to multiply by 2) This was the middle group of the day. Took a break to let others set up targets before group 4. Cold bore or cold shooter, either way group 4 was a hot mess. If group 4 removed, 5x5 avg = .589”

Runner up: SK std+, 6x5 avg = .697”, best = .546“. (disregard MOA numbers... I forgot to multiply by 2). This was the 1st 6x5 group and I was getting used to the rifle and the ACSS reticle. I was not using the chevron to best effect, but starting to get the hang of it by groups 5 and 6.

Best groups of the day: Last groups shot, figured out the best technique was to hold the ACSS chevron on the apex of the big diamond, and hold the .2 mil dot on the small black diamond. By this time, fatigue was settling in and winds picked up (as seen by the more horizontal stringing). 6x5 avg = .685”, best = .515”. (disregard MOA numbers... I forgot to multiply by 2). Less group to group variance compared to the SK RM and Std+.

Beautiful day at the range. I learned a lot about how capable this 10/22 with Kidd ultra lightweight barrel and Titan22 stock can be. The stock Ruger 10/22 scope rail isn’t set up for optimal eye relief, so a EGW extended picatinny rail with 20 MOA is on order and a scope with a center dot reticle and more magnification might shrink the groups. SK RM probably has the most potential as it had multiple sub .5” groups and would likely have had the the best average if there wasn’t a break in the action after group 3.

Reasonably accurate/precise and fun rifle for ˜$700 + time invested. Let me know if you have question. More testing to come.

YMMV, happy shooting

(edited for wrong MOA calculations, should be twice the listed value)

 

[SeaSoldier]

Kudo's to you for not being disuaded. I'mean in the process of building a similar 1022. Ruger receiver, Kidd bolt, Kidd singles gage trigger, Kidd springs and the same Kidd 16.5" ultralight barrel. KRG stock on order. I gotta think an 18" bull barrel will be more accurate than the ultralight. Time will tell. I do however have a Bergara B14 carbon barrel bolt gun as my game gun.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Kudo's to you for not being disuaded. I'mean in the process of building a similar 1022. Ruger receiver, Kidd bolt, Kidd singles gage trigger, Kidd springs and the same Kidd 16.5" ultralight barrel. KRG stock on order. I gotta think an 18" bull barrel will be more accurate than the ultralight. Time will tell. I do however have a Bergara B14 carbon barrel bolt gun as my game gun.

Thanks. More fun this way for me and the same reason I enjoy building ARs and hot rodded cars.
More than a few posts on other rimfire forums talk about not much difference between the bull, LW, and ULW barrels in terms of short string course of fire.
If I can get below 1.5”at 100 yards, the build will be in the ball park for NRL22, especially the compulsory stages which are all 100 yards or less. I’ll need to do more testing to assess precision past 100 yards as that data is sparse in the searches on the Hide and other websites.

Some additional observations:

1. I had another rifle on the line with a new scope but shooting this was so much fun that I didn’t get to test the other rifle very much.

2. My home made rear bag with pinto bean fill is not going to cut it. I think the vertical stringing was from me relaxing the squeeze on the bag after the shot and/or the beans slipping. I dryfired using my son’s Cole-Tac bag (generously donated by DrGlock) and that bag was much easier staying put.

3. I am very excited about how well this rifle shot the CCI SV. It’s the newer light blue box and have a few bricks for practice. If I can get it to shoot high .5” to low .6”, at 50 yards, it’ll be $ well spent. Hopefully, the CCI SV will be in plenty and cheap supply before autumn.

Can’t wait to shoot it with a better scope and picattiny rail (for better eye relief).

YMMV, happy shooting

 

[ypete3]

I have ran 10/22's since the inception of the NRL22. It was, but it's not a competitive platform in open class anymore. You can be in base until you move up. Then it's Rim X and Vudoo territory, of which I am currently building a Rim X.

I have four 10/22's, from a stock rifle to a heavily modified TacSol receiver. The main parts to change out are IMO:

1) Bolt release (Factory lawyers should be kicked in the nuts)
2) Barrel
3) Trigger (KIDD 2 stage is awesome)

The 10/22 platform suffers from mag issues and first shot flyers. I've done a ton of tinkering with the first shot flyer thing and it was never solved. My opinion is it stems from the seating difference from the NRL rule of chambering the first round via spring vs recoil loading.

First round flyers usley come from light strikes of the firing pins is what we found .

 

[Mr. Wolf]

1-23-21 Range update

Received 2 goodies on Friday.
1. TBAC 22 takedown released from jail
2. EGW 20 MOA rail arrived

Mounted an Arken SH4 6-24x 50 and went to the range to zero and shoot 6x5 with and without the suppressor.
Temp ˜60-62F, 4-6 MPH winds from 2:30, humidity 71%, overcast with occasional drizzle. CCI SV and SK RM shot prone with a bipod and a rear bag.

Warm-up and scope zero required more shots than normal since I can’t boresight it like normal. The left edge shows the initial impacts. I was dialing up and down and wondering where the flecks of paper were coming from. Against a white backing, it was nearly impossible to see, but once I saw it, zero was easy as measuring with the mils with the reticle and dialing accordingly. The 1st group after finding the left edge holes were the large center diamond. The diamonds without annotations were the shot without the suppressor. The 6x5 (best 6 of 9 groups) resulted in avg of .601” and best group .499” with the newer light blue box CCI SV. I am pleased to find a cheap practice ammo that I have in reserve.

Next target, 6x5 group with SK RM + TBAC 22 TD. Most consistent groups of the day with 6x5 avg of .530” or 1.013 MOA. As I get used to the scope and rifle, I have hopes that it’ll tighten up. Although KIDD does not guarantee 1/2 MOA groups at 50 yards for their ULW barrels, I‘ll say that it’s certainly possible. I fell apart on group 6, after seeing group 5.

The group without the suppressor shot very well except group 4. Coulda-woulda-shoulda, I need to find a more comfortable position with the rifle setup as the medium Arken Halo 34mm rings are too high. 6x5 avg=.584” and the best group of the day = .270"

Observations:
1. Keeping solid fundamentals on a 22LR bolt action was a bear, but the 10/22 takes it to another level. Humbling experience.
2. A 8.1 lbs rimfire is a joy to shoot, balance point can be better, but weights can be added as I fine-tune this setup.
3. Scope rings are too tall. I don’t like a high bore axis and I'd like to drop it by ˜.375”. I had to slightly lift off of the stock for a clear and full sight picture and now my neck is paying for it. Arken Halo low rings on order. At least the eye relief and magnification power was sorted this time.
4. I didn't notice significant differences in group sizes with or without the suppressor. The groups with suppressor looks more uniform, but I may be hallucinating. More testing needed.
5. I believe that sub MOA 6x5 groups at 50 yards are possible from a bipod and rear bag on this rifle. My goal is to shoot a 6x5 <1.5” at 100 yards.
6. The KIDD barrel shoots CCI SV surprisingly well and I will use it as my practice ammo. I will also test Aguila RM and Fiocchi SV to see if this barrel can shoot a variety of cheap stuff well.
7. Rimfire precision is addictive and fun.
8. I’d appreciate your comments and suggestions on how I can tighten up my groups.

Thank you for following, YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Ruff 364]

First round flyers usley come from light strikes of the firing pins is what we found .

Possibly, but there is no way to correct. NRL rules require open bolt starts.

This has cost me countless first round misses on small targets.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Possibly, but there is no way to correct. NRL rules require open bolt starts.

This has cost me countless first round misses on small targets.

Thanks Ruff. I'll have to keep an eye on the 1st round shots in the future but I did not notice it on during the 6x5 shoots.
I also cycled some CCI SV from the magazine and observed That only 2 of 5 extracted, likely from the tight chamber. But what I also noticed were some deformation on the top of the driving band and the vertical scoring. Since the 1st round would not be subject to the same vertical scoring, could that be the cause of the dreaded 1st round flyer? Tests out at 100 yards once I get the lower scope rings.

YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Ruff 364]

It's possible. It was concerning enough for me to hang that rifle up for NRL22. It is just not competitive any longer in open class.

I also had live round extraction issues from time to time with CCI Standard. I usually just shot that round into the bank to clear.

 

[Sagittarius]

For anyone having trouble with chambering certain ammo in 10/22 rifles and clones...
Try SK ammo which is naturally oily or put some drops of oil on a rag and shake up ammo like CCI SV and others until it's oily and then try shooting it in your rifle as Clark Custom Guns recommends.

If you continue to have extraction issues after 200 rounds, order a replacement Volquartsen extractor/firing pin combo and see if that resolves your issue. (it did for me with my Ruger custom shop rifle)

I've heard those 1st round fliers can also be caused because the first round of every magazine is naturally loader by manually chambering the round with the charging handle which does not impart near as much force as subsequent rounds from the magazine when the bolt slams them home upon the rifle being fired.
Not much you can do about it (first round) except using the oily ammunition which helps somewhat.

Factors such as the above are a few of the reasons why semi-autos are in a different class and don't compete against bolt guns in ABRA benchrest shoots.
But I wouldn't be concerned about using my Chacon Custom 10/22 against any bolt gun win or lose.

I much prefer a semi-auto in KYL matches to a bolt gun as a nice KIDD or Chacon semi-auto rifle is very close in accuracy but way faster in a timed event like that.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Update:

I am a certified idiot.



I was thinking yesterday on the best scope for this build (I know, a dangerous thing to do for the intellectually challenged like yours truly) and felt that the Arken SH4 4-14x provided the best balance of factors for this build.

When I placed the Torx bit into the scope ring base clamp to change out the scope, all 4 screws spun freely with only finger pressure. Prior to the range session on Sat, during the rush of moving around scopes and finding the right eye relief, I forgot to tighten everything down.

What is amazing is that I moved the rifle around by lifting it by the scope and couldn't detect a wobble. The silver lining is that the weight and sturdiness of the Arken SH4 gen 2 and Halo rings allowed it to stay in place enough to shoot .270" and almost sub MOA 6x5 at 50! This could certainly explain the random double or triple dispersions in the groups.

More testing and 6x5 results this weekend.

YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Update from range day, 1/31/2021

Range time after shooting the NRL22 match. Wet weather, foggy, cloudy, downpour to sunny skies in a span of 4 hrs. Shot the match with the CZ 457 but I had the day free and went to the 50 yard bay and settled in for some group therapy.

mounted the Arken SH4 6-24x on their lower Halo mount. Prone with rear bag. Tailwinds 10-13 MPH made it for tricky conditions.

CCI SV to sight in the rifle. Must be getting used to the rifle and for some reason this batch of CCI SV shoots lights out. I wish I had brought a full box to shoot a 6x5.

Next up: SK STD + winds picked up a bit and I have to admit that I was starting to get tired after the match. Still a decent group in moderate winds. I think I’m going to stick with the batch of SK RM and the CCI SV for further testing.

Here she is as a completed build. Titan cheek riser and Arken Halo low rings made for a much better cheek weld and eye box.

Observations:
1. It is my belief that the Kidd ULW barrel in the Victor Co Titan22 with the spike anchor is capable of shooting sub 1/2” 6x5 @ 50 yards. More testing with CCI SV and SK RM pending.
2. This rifle is a hoot to shoot... less accurate than my CZ 457 but more fun. I don’t usually think this way, but building the gun may contribute to the fun factor.
3. After ~200 rounds, the chamber gets sticky and casing extractions were 50/50. Angled wire or nylon brush with some CLP for 3 minutes fixed it.

YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Range update, 2/15/21
Cooler, dreary day with misting rain. 82% humidity, 58 F, 3-5 MPH winds from 5 o clock.
Shot 6x5s at 50 yards with the rifle + suppressor, prone with bipod and rear bag.

1st up: SK Std + Not very good initially, but I started warming up and timing the wind better. Also made conscious effort to relax my shoulders and square up the elbows to the target. The 1” squares allowed for precise shooting. I liked where the groups were going. 6x5 avg .585” Best .296”

Next up: SK Rifle Match. Timed winds better. The bottom 2 groups shot after a range break. I noticed that my first shots were .1 to .2 MIL higher after the breaks. Something to consider and test for the future. This rifle and SK RM ammo preferred shooting suppressed. 6x5 avg .347” Best .253” MOA .662

This is an amazing barrel and stock. It's been a fun and sometimes frustrating journey but ultimately very rewarding and helpful in improving my marksmanship. Thank you for all your help, shared knowledge, and sense of community.

YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Range update 3/13/21

Beautiful day to shoot. Gentle winds 3-7 MPH from 1:30 position, 75F, 83% humidity.
Cleaned the barrel with BoreTec and the amount of soot and lead it got out was impressive.

Top: Lapua CenterX. 50 yard 6x5 avg .365” (.704 MOA), best group .147” (.201 MOA). Fell apart on group 5 but made up for it on group 6.
Bottom: RWS Rifle Match. 50 yard 6x5 avg .602” (1.150 MOA), best group .405” (.774 MOA)

Observations:
1. Although the Kidd ULW seems to shoot many variety of ammo well, it prefers the SK/Lapua brands.
2. The suppressed 10/22 likes to be cleaned every 150-200 rounds for reliability and precision. No 1st round flyer this time. I’ve read that carbon ring may contribute to 1st round flyers so cleaning with the BoreTec rimfire solution seemed to help.
3. Shooting and loading magazines with a broken little finger isn’t fun.
4. Having been spoiled by the CZ 457 and Savage B22 Precision triggers, I may have to bite the bullet and get the Kidd 2 stage. As nice as the Volquartsen target hammer group and polishing is, there is still a lot of creep, gritty pull, and ˜2.75 lbs leaves much to be desired.
5. The Kidd ULWB and Titan 22 spike stock is capable of of producing a very competent rifle for a fraction of the cost of a full Kidd build and IMHO it’s more fun to shoot something you‘ve built up.

Next up: Testing at 100 yards and NRL22 matches.

YMMV, happy shooting