Ruger American Predator Bolt Issue

[Jonathan_T]

I took my new, and cleaned, RAP 6.5 creedmoor to the range yesterday for the fist time and experienced a handful of issues when cycling the bolt. First of which, with the bolt closed and the mag full, the bolt would get stuck when pulling back to put a round into the chamber, scaring the brass. To relieve the issue I usually had to slam the bolt back after pushing it forward again. Second, when chambering the round, it would not feed properly aligned 25% of the time, not allowing the bolt to close. Lastly, after firing one of the last of 40 rounds, the bolt jammed, not allowing me to cycle the fired round out. I was finally able to break it free with a substantial amount of force on the bolt.---My immediate thought was a headspace issue but after measuring the Hornady Black factory rounds, this was not the case. In addition the extractor would only work properly about 50-75% of the time. I have uploaded videos yo youtube trying to capture these issues the best I could (links below). Also I have a picture of the all the brass shavings in the chamber and a picture of the bolt included, there is a small divot where the tapper on the bolt groove begins to increase. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Do your all's bolts look the same? Any opinions about the issues? I plan on calling Ruger on Monday, but looking to see what everyone else thinks. Thanks.

Problem 1:
Problem 2:

 

[bigdaddydmd]

I had the same issue on a RAP but in .223. The fired case would stick requiring a very forceful whack on the bolt handle to remove the brass. Brass was scored and scratched up about 1/3 the way up from the rim. I never had a feeding issue or the "bolt binding" while cycling the bolt your video showed. unfired rounds extracted easy and smoothly. At first I thought it was a headspace issue also, but it didn't appear to be. Upon inspecting the chamber there are extremely rough tooling marks and a metal "spur" was digging into the case after firing and expansion of the brass preventing me from easily cycling the spent round. I cleaned the chamber well and polished the chamber with a bore mop and some bore paste and kept it well lubed. After the polish (avoiding the throat and neck area since it was in the lower 1/3 of the round) I would get 4-5 rounds function normally and then it would start sticking again. I would then reclean and lube with a chamber mop and would get another 4-5 rounds. This was with multiple brands and weights of factory ammo. After about 100 rounds the issue resolved and I am able to cycle normally. Brass will still have some scratch marks on it but nowhere what I was getting and I can cycle spent rounds now. Even though yours is a 6.5 take a look into the chamber with a scope or borelight. I bet you will see some extremely rough tooling and find a spur in there somewhere. Annoying to deal with, but for what I paid for the rifle and how accurate it is I am not complaining at all. Just had to work it in so it would smooth out.

 

[bigdaddydmd]

I just realized you posted this in the reloading forum. You will get better responses and coverage in the bolt action or gunsmithing sub-forum. I don't know if you can move a thread as the OP or if a mod can move it.

 

[Jonathan_T]

I took a look in the chamber with a flash light and didn't see anything that looked abnormal, thanks for the suggestion though. I also posted in the gunsmithing forum with no replies.

 

[260284]

I am not impressed at all with the factory magazines and how they feed on my son's RAP in 6.5 Creedmoor. I have a MagPul on backorder for it or it would be headed back to Ruger.