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Ruger M77 mkII 300wm build

scgolfer88

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 29, 2013
11
3
Lexington, SC
New to the ruger platform guys and looking for some direction on stock/chassis ideas. I was leaning towards a MDT chassis but they only make them for the SA model. Even stock options are pretty limited on this platform..

I’d love some feedback on ideas beyond stock/trigger to make this thing a shooter
 
What are you planning to do with it? Target, hunting, ELR, mix of above? Desired weight, length? The more info you give on what you want to do with it the better.

Mike
 
Send it to a smith for a new barrel. Then the timney trigger and if you dont have grinding tools I would send that along to the smith as well.

A mcmillan or something from a flattop stock blank are the two options that I would entertain if I were serious about it being in somethimg else. And now that cdi is out of the game I dont trust any aftermarket dbms to work without fitting.

As mine is a hunting rifle I opted to keep the factory wood stock and bdl floorplate and I put in some pillars and bedded it. I wouldnt do pillars again, well not the front at least, as the front one at an angle is a real bitch with the angled action screw having to go through the floor plate at the same time to get the proper height to ensure proper operation and the rear gets the surrounding material a bit thin but it is at least easy to do. I would just bed the lug and rear tang.
 
Rifle will mostly be used for medium range hunting. I have a few that are setup more for long range stuff. But I see this being more of a 2-350 maybe 400 yard “bean field” rifle. My main concern is getting it shooting a decent group. I’ve heard these things are notorious for not being great shooters without some work.
I figure putting a good trigger in it, and a better bedded stock that will float the barrel is a good start. Just doesn’t seem like many options on the market besides a cheap hogue, a decent HS Pro, or a mcmillian.
 
Bell and carlson has M77 mkII stocks. Would probably want to get those bedded as well. Pretty sure m77s are a little more complex to rebarrel due to the claw extractor, which would add some cost to rebarreling.
 
Rifle will mostly be used for medium range hunting. I have a few that are setup more for long range stuff. But I see this being more of a 2-350 maybe 400 yard “bean field” rifle. My main concern is getting it shooting a decent group. I’ve heard these things are notorious for not being great shooters without some work.
I figure putting a good trigger in it, and a better bedded stock that will float the barrel is a good start. Just doesn’t seem like many options on the market besides a cheap hogue, a decent HS Pro, or a mcmillian.

Have you shot it as is yet?
Mine shoots well under 1" @ 100yds with a number of different bullets over a charge of IMR 4350 and a F-215 lighting it off.

I've owned quite a few M-77 mk II over the years and the only one that didn't shoot extremely well was a stainless 223.
 
Pretty sure m77s are a little more complex to rebarrel due to the claw extractor, which would add some cost to rebarreling.
The m77mkii has a flush breech face, its claw doesnt interfere like a win70 would. Its no tougher than cutting a rem700.


I agree with Mike on shooting it first, both of mine are great shooters. One (well, dads) wears the factory barrel and stacks the first 3 shots touching when I sight it in before deer season on the benchrest each of the last 3 years Ive been loading for him so its a great hunter for him, he wont let me rebarrel it to add a can. The second is mine and I have a pacnor #6 on it so I could attach my can and its really great now for a longer strings. I say you try a loading with the siearra gameking bullet if you want a easy button load thats good for hunting out to 500.


But the trigger is the biggest thing to improve on it. On a mark2 its easy to get t trigger and pins in but they make the safety drum too long (to avoid leaving it too short and making it dangerous) so you have to grind it down a bit to fit. I install it, swivel the safetly around to see where its contacting the rest and scratch a line at that point and then grind that little drum down until it just clears to swivel under and block the firing pin.
 
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Mount a good scope and shoot it. THEN make your evaluation/componentry decisions.
I'll bet it shoots a bunch better than "they" told you it would.........of course "they" may or may not have ever shot one.........
 
I have been curious about this myself. My brother gifted me a Mark II in .308, so it's a gun I'll never part with, but I would like to do something to it. Mine has a 16 inch barrel and the stock feels like it was designed for a kid...super short length of pull.
 
I have been curious about this myself. My brother gifted me a Mark II in .308, so it's a gun I'll never part with, but I would like to do something to it. Mine has a 16 inch barrel and the stock feels like it was designed for a kid...super short length of pull.

Yep the " compact" model , have 3 of them. 2 are stock from factory and with the right factory or handloads will group sub moa. The short barrels kill fps. I rebarreled the 3rd one ( maybe 75 rds through barrel) to a 6 cm with a 26" barrel...pillow/ beded / trigger.....the works.....it is a shooter.....my favorite of all now. I couldnt be more pleased with how it turned out.
 
Yep the " compact" model , have 3 of them. 2 are stock from factory and with the right factory or handloads will group sub moa. The short barrels kill fps. I rebarreled the 3rd one ( maybe 75 rds through barrel) to a 6 cm with a 26" barrel...pillow/ beded / trigger.....the works.....it is a shooter.....my favorite of all now. I couldnt be more pleased with how it turned out.

What manufacturer did you use for the rebarrel?
 
What manufacturer did you use for the rebarrel?

Shilen select match rachet 1-8

I bought the 1st two rifles for my son and daughter's first hunting rifles....308...708. I liked the short lop so I bought a 708 for myself.......My son's 308 and my 708 have a laminated stock / ss receiver and barrel , beautiful rifles. Daughter's 708 is nice walnut / blued receiver/ barrel ...ss bolt.
I like the fixed ejector in the m ll and 3 position safety.......been a ruger fan since my 1st 1022 (1968)....never had one that would nt group well with the right ammo.
 
Shilen select match rachet 1-8

I bought the 1st two rifles for my son and daughter's first hunting rifles....308...708. I liked the short lop so I bought a 708 for myself.......My son's 308 and my 708 have a laminated stock / ss receiver and barrel , beautiful rifles. Daughter's 708 is nice walnut / blued receiver/ barrel ...ss bolt.
I like the fixed ejector in the m ll and 3 position safety.......been a ruger fan since my 1st 1022 (1968)....never had one that would nt group well with the right ammo.

Shot my first deer with a Ruger M77 in 243 back in 1988. The M77 has sentimental value for me.
 
Mount a good scope and shoot it. THEN make your evaluation/componentry decisions.
I'll bet it shoots a bunch better than "they" told you it would.........of course "they" may or may not have ever shot one.........

well trigger in them is an obvious need, but I don’t care to own it in the current junky feeling stock period, so if I’m gonna keep it I’m gonna go ahead and build it into something I like vs halfassing it off the rip! I’ve got enough experience to know this thing will never soon “good” in this current stock
 
I have a 300WM MkII all-weather, the "canoe paddle" version. I'm not a fan of the stock although I've had it since I bought it over 20 years ago. Boyd's has some really nice offerings for their laminated stocks for a reasonable price and that's the direction I'm thinking of going. From the reviews I've seen and on YTube it looks like they literally just drop in. product-configurator
 
All Ruger bolt actions are the same thread spec, and shank dimensions. Which means, you call PTG and buy a $18 nut which works with any AR armorer's wrench. Then you buy any RPR or American pre-fit barrel that makes you happy.

I first did this almost a full decade ago, and I highly doubt I'm the first person to pull a gun apart and start actually measuring things for myself...


lrg_1455510085914_2473367730_cfe0e37f_v1.jpg

IMG_20161221_120249.jpg
 
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Hogue Overmolded stock, not pretty but does a very good job with the Ruger 77 MK II action. Mine moved to 35 Whelen shoots great. Was initially a beater rifle, now a pretty sharp shooting heavy critter gun.
59F8A0DC-6C6B-49C2-8EBF-01E665FFFB8C.jpeg
 
All Ruger bolt actions are the same thread spec, and shank dimensions. Which means, you call PTG and buy a $18 nut which works with any AR armorer's wrench. Then you buy any RPR or American pre-fit barrel that makes you happy.

I first did this almost a full decade ago, and I highly doubt I'm the first person to pull a gun apart and start actually measuring things for myself...


View attachment 7669068
View attachment 7669069
Sorry this is an old thread..
I assume you mean this barrel nut? Then just buy an American prefit and headspace it?