Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I agree. If you don’t reload and you go with what’s most commonly available, the 140 grain, I’d stick with the 1:8. That will give you the best of both worlds since you could go a bit lighter if you wanted to.

Yeah... My 1:8 OEM barrel handled both the 140 Hornady ELD and the 130 Berger Hybrid very well.
 
My factory RPR barrel handles the 147 ELD-M fine as well. That's the biggest bullet I've seen in common factory ammunition, so I don't think I'd sweat the 8 twist.

Mine didn't shoot the 147-gr ELDs as well as the 140s. Well... pretty close, really. But, not better. The 140s are more widely-available, too.
 
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question: why does the RPR 6.5 CM not like an AICS center feed mag? My problem is the 3 lug bolt. It the back of the lug catches the crest of the shoulder of my cartridge when extracting the spent round. The mag below is an MDT AICS mag. You have to be very forceful to get it past the shoulder.
I had the same problem when I ran those mags in my RPR. I think they allow the round to sit a little higher up than the other mags do, so the lug catches the shoulder of the brass when you are pulling the bolt back. I noticed when I switched to the ARC mags that I mentioned in that write up that I didn't have this problem any more. I think the rounds sit a little lower in the ARC mags so the lug has more clearance to the round beneath it.
 
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I had a little extra time today and printed a bag rider for my RPR. I haven't been happy with the ones I purchased.
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I tried it out today (briefly) and I'm pretty happy with it. It might be a little tall but my bad is a little short :)

stl file attached if anyone wants to use it to print one. I had to change the extension to txt though. If it doesn't work for you DM me and I will send the file in email.
 

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For all of the magnum owners, I have been working with a company to make a replacement handguard that will work with the RPR Magnums. They informed me today that they have made a barrel nut that will allow the attachment of thier handguards. I should have my new handguard very soon and I will update everyone once I do.
 
hey ya'll. new here, and I have 2 questions:

1.Anyone replace their gen 2 aluminum bolt shroud? I know many people replaced the plastic bolt shroud, but I am wondering if the LRI is that much difference than the GEN2 Ruger shroud.

2. Anyone upgrade the muzzle break on the Gen2? if so what are all you running?
Terminator TT works for very well on my 6mm Creedmoor RPR. https://terminatorproducts.co.nz/
 
I apologize if this has been addressed elsewhere. I own a Gen 2 (I think) RPR .308 it has the aluminum bolt shroud and M-lok handguard. My other RPR is a first Gen 6.5 Creedmore and this rifle has the Keymod handguard which is well machined and comfortable to hold however the newer Gen 2 .308's M-lok handguard has razor sharp burrs all over it. I'm an industrial robotics and automation tech at a metal stamping plant and I'm pretty sure the cutouts were stamped/punched out but usually there's a deburring process before its anodized or cataloged. On my rifle it's as though there was little or no deburring performed. Has anyone else had this issue?
 
Anyone added weight to a Gen 2 MLOK handguard. Looking for ideas. Haven't seen anything yet similar to what XLR or MDT sells for their chassis to get some extra weight up front to help balance the butt heavy RPR.
 
Anyone added weight to a Gen 2 MLOK handguard. Looking for ideas. Haven't seen anything yet similar to what XLR or MDT sells for their chassis to get some extra weight up front to help balance the butt heavy RPR.
I use a suppressor and it is heavy enough that it actually balances out the rifle perfectly. The balance point is right against the front of the mag well. If you ever want to shoot suppressed you probably won't need any weights.
However, I believe the MDT weights attach to the M-Lok slots, so you should be able to use those on your rifle. But they might look a little weird since the RPR rail is rounded. I don't know of any weights that are rounded like the RPR rail.
 
Update about the Anarchy Outdoors cocking piece in my RPR. It was hard to measure with my trigger pull gauge (had to get a zip tie involved) but my bolt open weight dropped by 1 full pound and bolt close by close to 1 pound.

Does anyone who went with a Timney have a factory trigger they would be willing to sell? I will buy for the right price. PM me.
 
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Is anyone using a Magnetospeed sporter and how have you been setting it up?
We've been using the Magnetospeed sporter with our RPRs and it works just fine. Setup is simple, we just use the smaller of the two pads that are included, mount it so it butts up against the muzzle brake shoot. The app seems temperamental on my iPhone, but I think it's a function of the cable port in my phone and not the app...
 
Hey guys

I recived my RPR 300 PRC back from the the custom handguard maker! If you want to customize your RPR magnum handguard contact Unique ARs (
https://unique-ars.com ) you can use one of the handguards that they have in stock or you can go full custom like I did. I went for a bears head on the muzzle end. I also have thier rifle grip installed. You can adjust it to completely conform to your hand!

Final weight to my rifle as pictured is 14.7 lbs! If I take the monopod and bipod off I'm right about 13.8 lbs!
 

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Hey guys

I recived my RPR 300 PRC back from the the custom handguard maker! If you want to customize your RPR magnum handguard contact Unique ARs (
https://unique-ars.com ) you can use one of the handguards that they have in stock or you can go full custom like I did. I went for a bears head on the muzzle end. I also have thier rifle grip installed. You can adjust it to completely conform to your hand!

Final weight to my rifle as pictured is 14.7 lbs! If I take the monopod and bipod off I'm right about 13.8 lbs!

That's really cool, did you have to provide a drawing of what you wanted?
 
That's really cool, did you have to provide a drawing of what you wanted?


Sorta, I gave them a couple of ideas and then thier artist( Rich) worked with me to get exactly what I want. They send you mock up CAD/digital format drawings to get you to the design you want. I can barely draw a stick figure so he is really good hahaha!
 
@Vidar That is a very interesting and unique design. How is the integrity and strength?

I dont detect any flex when loading the bipod or moving the rifle around. If you have a facebook account I think they have a video showing how strong the handguards are. Unique ARs makes really nice products. If you haven't already go to thier web page and look through thier gallery. They have made some awesome crazy stuff.
 
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I just bought a 7mm-08 barrel for mine. It was a 6CM. Had about 1800rds on it and figured I would go to a less of a barrel burner. I got a 26" from PVA on the way currently. Can't wait to shoot it.
 
Going out today with my gen.3 .308, I worked up some 175 tipped matchking loads for my 1000 yd. as my 168 hpbt mk were falling apart at that range. Hope it does the trick, if not I just picked up a remington m700 in 7mm rem mag, that should do it!

Ive only gotten 168’s to work at 1000 on a hot August day. 175’s did ok. The 190 SMK’s work best for me
 
Ive only gotten 168’s to work at 1000 on a hot August day. 175’s did ok. The 190 SMK’s work best for me
I might try that next. I tried the 175tmk and I have no problems out to my 876 yard target, when I get to the 981 yard target ( and it's a big target, 16"w x 22" t man silhouette with a 6" swinging red heart to aim at) it looks like a shotgun pattern all around it. My range is at 5000 ft and high humidity so maybe that plays a part. If anyone cares here is the google earth coordinates to my upper range 40 19'39.80n x 123 30'38.84w . the lower range a couple miles down the road only goes out 600.
 
What is your velocity? At that range 308 isn't moving too fast and could be causing your "shotgun" groups.
No chronograph but If I use the ballistic tables it's somewhere around 2700 f.p.s. , 44.7 grn. varget, 20" barrel. It probably is at the end of its range but a lot of guys on this forum claim to do 1000 yards with a .308. Might be like all the 3/4 ton pickup guys that get 25 m.p.g.
 
Well you should be fine with that combo. How long is the barrel for your ballistic data? Without a chronograph you cant tell exactly what your reloads are doing. You might have wild velocities(deviations) causing the spread down range. How does your ammo group at 300 and 500 yards?
 
Our 20” barrel with 1:10 twist is suited for a heavier bullet. I’m using 42.5 gr varget with the 190 SMK. It seems to be around 2500 fps. It’ll stay sub moa out to 700 and then opens to about moa at 1000. Although I have shot sub moa and even one 1/2 moa group at 1000 on perfect days. I’m sure it dies out soon after 1000 but works extremely well out to that range.
 
Well you should be fine with that combo. How long is the barrel for your ballistic data? Without a chronograph you cant tell exactly what your reloads are doing. You might have wild velocities(deviations) causing the spread down range. How does your ammo group at 300 and 500 yards?
At the 600 yard target I shoot beer cans with regularity and it Shoots great out to the 876 yard target. I have to get my hands on a chronograph and check the deviations.
 
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Just wondering who has upgraded to the seekins handguard on there gen 3, if you have a scope with a 56mm lens, what size rings are you using. I've just put a gen 2 razor with 1.45 rings and lens cap on my RPR. And there's not much room left to possibly install the handguard. Has anyone had it fit or did you go to 1.5 rings.
Thanks
 
anyone have a delta stryker on a gen1 with a spuhr mount?


to get the right eye relief the mount has run off the front of the rail. and the scope is forwards in the mount. do I either have a giraffe neck or the wrong mount?
I got a couple of friends to look through it and they agreed it could probably do with moving forward a bit more
 
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Hello Racer88, I have the same Anarchy bolt shroud but had never used the take down tool until now. Slipped in and rotated just fine. From the photos it appears you might have inserted the tool too far and the tool is binding on the rear of the firing pin, that it is supposed to depress. Just a thought.

I tried again today. I was able to disassemble the bolt. Though, the tool still would not rotate all the way, no matter how I manipulated it or oriented it. So, I just did it with the tool at 45-degrees.

I guess I'm not sure of the purpose of breaking down the bolt. After over 3,000 rounds through my rifle, and never breaking down the bolt until now... it was remarkably CLEAN inside. For the hell of it, I sprayed it with CLP and wiped it down. But, there wasn't really anything there.


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Fortunately, I was able to get it all back together with no issues. And, it still works! :)
 
Unfortunately the Anarch tool has square corners on the part that interfaces with the bolt that should be rounded. Compare it to the factory ruger plastic tool and you'll see what I mean. Rounding them off with a file lets the tool work as it's supposed to.
Hope this helps.
 
Unfortunately the Anarch tool has square corners on the part that interfaces with the bolt that should be rounded. Compare it to the factory ruger plastic tool and you'll see what I mean. Rounding them off with a file lets the tool work as it's supposed to.
Hope this helps.

Thanks... I no longer have the OEM tool, since it broke the very first time I tried to use it. So, I can't compare. But, what you're saying makes sense. But, so I'm clear on which corner to radius / round off... red arrow or blue arrow?

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Thanks again!
 
Anyone been shooting the federal gold medal loaded with the 185gr juggernauts. Do they fit in the pmags and how do they go out to distance.
Currently shooting the factory sako 175gr scenar and getting good results, but can get the federal ammo cheaper by the case.
 
Went out yesterday for a small session at the 100 yard range (it was raining pretty well). Shot all prone for the first time, for a total of 8 different 5-shot groups. Averaged .805 MOA, with a best of .32, which was my best EVER!! That also happened to be the first group, on a cold bore. I tweaked the windage by .2 MIL after that, and for the rest of the morning, things were much closer to center. If you take out the fliers in the "bad" groups, I had a bunch of holes overlapping/touching. You can see a few of those groups on the edge of the pic. Felt really good when I left the range! This rifle is bad azz, especially for the money!
 

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I tried again today. I was able to disassemble the bolt. Though, the tool still would not rotate all the way, no matter how I manipulated it or oriented it. So, I just did it with the tool at 45-degrees.

I guess I'm not sure of the purpose of breaking down the bolt. After over 3,000 rounds through my rifle, and never breaking down the bolt until now... it was remarkably CLEAN inside. For the hell of it, I sprayed it with CLP and wiped it down. But, there wasn't really anything there.


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Fortunately, I was able to get it all back together with no issues. And, it still works! :)
That is a fancy looking bolt handle where'd you get that? I'm kinda thinking about doing one of my RPR
 
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