Ruger Precision Rimfire Magazine Feeding Issue

[srbecker58]

A little background information.

I purchased a new Shaw barrel for my RPRR. After barrel replacement, I noticed that the sharp edge of the chamber is catching and shaving off part of the bullets entering and I think is really messing up my accuracy. To this point I have tried the following:

-Put the factory plunger/spring back in (issue still present)
-Removed all bedding (issue still present)
-Different magazine (issue still present)
-Changed spring tension of magazines (issue still present)
-put the stock barrel back on (ISSUE RESOLVED!!!)

Now, I compared the barrel shanks visually and with calipers and they are identical, so it is not a head space issue. I also proceeded to measure the chambers and the chamber distance from the edge of the barrel shanks. Obviously the Shaw chamber is smaller than the factory chamber, which makes sense since it is a match chamber, but it wasnt until I saw the measurement on the calipers that it dawned on me. The issue was probably always present but the slightly larger chamber of the factory barrel masked it and allowed for that tolerance where as the match chamber has no room for error.

From there I but the entire weapon back together, re-bed the sides of the block only this time just to eliminate a little looseness. I decided to focus on the magazines and this is what I came with.

Even with the KIDD plunger and stronger spring, the magazine still has about 1/16" play up and down at the front and maybe 1/32" difference between the face of the magazine and the face of the barrel shank. See video below:



Now, the fix I have found that allows flawless feeding is to slightly press up on the front of the magazine to ever so slightly change the angle of the round as it leaves the magazine. See video below:



The problem is, I cant always be pressing up as cycling. I am thinking that foil tape or any tape is not going to hold up to inserting and releasing the magazine hundreds of times. My only option may be to modify the magazine by adding a touch of epoxy to this area.

Has anyone seen this, experienced this, fixed this? Any help is greatly appreciated. I feel so much better knowing I finally found the issue, I am just not smart enough to figure out how to fix it (other than keeping the factory barrel witch is not an option as it shot like crap)

 

[straightshooter1]

A little background information.

I purchased a new Shaw barrel for my RPRR. After barrel replacement, I noticed that the sharp edge of the chamber is catching and shaving off part of the bullets entering and I think is really messing up my accuracy. To this point I have tried the following:

-Put the factory plunger/spring back in (issue still present)
-Removed all bedding (issue still present)
-Different magazine (issue still present)
-Changed spring tension of magazines (issue still present)
-put the stock barrel back on (ISSUE RESOLVED!!!)

Now, I compared the barrel shanks visually and with calipers and they are identical, so it is not a head space issue. I also proceeded to measure the chambers and the chamber distance from the edge of the barrel shanks. Obviously the Shaw chamber is smaller than the factory chamber, which makes sense since it is a match chamber, but it wasnt until I saw the measurement on the calipers that it dawned on me. The issue was probably always present but the slightly larger chamber of the factory barrel masked it and allowed for that tolerance where as the match chamber has no room for error.

From there I but the entire weapon back together, re-bed the sides of the block only this time just to eliminate a little looseness. I decided to focus on the magazines and this is what I came with.

Even with the KIDD plunger and stronger spring, the magazine still has about 1/16" play up and down at the front and maybe 1/32" difference between the face of the magazine and the face of the barrel shank. See video below:



Now, the fix I have found that allows flawless feeding is to slightly press up on the front of the magazine to ever so slightly change the angle of the round as it leaves the magazine. See video below:



The problem is, I cant always be pressing up as cycling. I am thinking that foil tape or any tape is not going to hold up to inserting and releasing the magazine hundreds of times. My only option may be to modify the magazine by adding a touch of epoxy to this area.

Has anyone seen this, experienced this, fixed this? Any help is greatly appreciated. I feel so much better knowing I finally found the issue, I am just not smart enough to figure out how to fix it (other than keeping the factory barrel witch is not an option as it shot like crap)

Yup, had all the very same issues. . .exactly (also with the Shaw barrel I installed). And like you, I tightened the mag fit using some foil tape on the sides of the mag assembly and that helped a little with the feeding issue. But what really worked for me to keep the bullets from being shaved on feeding, I cut some foil tape to fit as bedding at contact area around the bedding screws. That changed the position of the mag feeding and now I get feeding without any damage to the bullets.

 

[srbecker58]

Yup, had all the very same issues. . .exactly (also with the Shaw barrel I installed). And like you, I tightened the mag fit using some foil tape on the sides of the mag assembly and that helped a little with the feeding issue. But what really worked for me to keep the bullets from being shaved on feeding, I cut some foil tape to fit as bedding at contact area around the bedding screws. That changed the position of the mag feeding and now I get feeding without any damage to the bullets.

Hmm. I know and can picture both areas. Just 1 layer of tape was it or did you use more? And did you bed just the bottom of the rear screw area or did you also bed the sides? I am willing to try anything really, but I feel like bedding is going to raise the action and barrel, which seems like it would only make my case worse... I figured I was going to need to shim the mag somehow...

 

[straightshooter1]

Hmm. I know and can picture both areas. Just 1 layer of tape was it or did you use more?

The foil tape I have is somewhat thick, so as I recall, I only used 1 layer. I don't exactly remember now (old age yaknow ) In any case, it's probably a good idea to go at it a layer at a time anyway.

And did you bed just the bottom of the rear screw area or did you also bed the sides?

I did both sides.

I am willing to try anything really, but I feel like bedding is going to raise the action and barrel, which seems like it would only make my case worse...

I had the same first thoughts when I heard someone else had suggested this. But, raising the action like that is just what kept the bullets from being shaved by the top of the Shaw's chamber (that's where my bullets were being shaved, anyway).

 

[srbecker58]

The foil tape I have is somewhat thick, so as I recall, I only used 1 layer. I don't exactly remember now (old age yaknow ) In any case, it's probably a good idea to go at it a layer at a time anyway.


I did both sides.


I had the same first thoughts when I heard someone else had suggested this. But, raising the action like that is just what kept the bullets from being shaved by the top of the Shaw's chamber (that's where my bullets were being shaved, anyway).

OHHH!!! So that would make sense then. Mine is quite opposite though. My bullets are being shaved on the bottom side away from the ejection port. So roughly the 7 o'clock position if looking down the bore from the back of the gun. So I almost feel like I would need to lower my action/barrel to make that work, which I really cant do without shaving out parts of the stock and stuff. Id rather not do that, so I almost think my fix has to be mag related? Ill mess around with shims though in the areas you suggested, it doesnt hurt anything.

 

[straightshooter1]

OHHH!!! So that would make sense then. Mine is quite opposite though. My bullets are being shaved on the bottom side away from the ejection port. So roughly the 7 o'clock position if looking down the bore from the back of the gun. So I almost feel like I would need to lower my action/barrel to make that work, which I really cant do without shaving out parts of the stock and stuff. Id rather not do that, so I almost think my fix has to be mag related? Ill mess around with shims though in the areas you suggested, it doesnt hurt anything.

I'd think you should be able to do something with the mag assembly to get it fixed into lower position a bit. You should be able to MacGyver something to work.

 

[srbecker58]

I'd think you should be able to do something with the mag assembly to get it fixed into lower position a bit. You should be a to MacGyver something to work.

i need the front of it in a higher position. It is sitting about 1/16" low. I think shimming the front to get it away from the chamber a tad will work. Ill test tonight.

 

[Booner1334]

Try the Butler Creek mags, the ones with the steel lips. Their "Hot Lips" worked fine with the factory barrel but had to go to their steel lip mags when I went with the Shaw barrel.
The Butler Creek mags have a straight fed design verses the rotary fed of the Ruger mags. The straight feed may lift the bullet a tad higher when feeding?

 

[srbecker58]

Try the Butler Creek mags, the ones with the steel lips. Their "Hot Lips" worked fine with the factory barrel but had to go to their steel lip mags when I went with the Shaw barrel.
The Butler Creek mags have a straight fed design verses the rotary fed of the Ruger mags. The straight feed may lift the bullet a tad higher when feeding?

I didnt even know there were any aftermarket options! I will give that a try, thank you very much!!

 

[srbecker58]

Damn, finding them is the next challenge. First, they are kinda ugly, but Ill give one a shot to see if it resolves my issue if I can find any. Checked a few places already, all out of stock!

 

[srbecker58]

Update: I think I have the problem temporarily solved for testing purposes, then Ill make it more permanent when I can confirm it works 100%. See video below:



The solution for me was to change the angle of the magazine by shimming the recessed area that meets up with the barrel shank. As you can see, I used some foil tape and layered it to create roughly 1/16" or slightly less (havent measured it yet), to push the magazine away from the barrel shank, changing the angle of feed.

As you can see in the video above and the picture below, feeding seems reliable with 3 different ammo types (SK Rifle Match, CCI SV which was the worse pre-fix, and Eley Match). It results in no bullet damage or lead stripping which may have been a major cause in my accuracy issues and flyers.

Now, couple this fix with my Shaw barrel, I should hopefully be on track to shooting some much nicer groups next outing. Fingers crossed!

Now, as a more permanent fix (if this works well), I am thinking about putting some epoxy in that area and letting it harden up, then taking a dremel to it to smooth it out and fine tune the thickness for reliability. Thoughts on that or just leave the foil there?

 

[Booner1334]

Update: I think I have the problem temporarily solved for testing purposes, then Ill make it more permanent when I can confirm it works 100%. See video below:



The solution for me was to change the angle of the magazine by shimming the recessed area that meets up with the barrel shank. As you can see, I used some foil tape and layered it to create roughly 1/16" or slightly less (havent measured it yet), to push the magazine away from the barrel shank, changing the angle of feed.

As you can see in the video above and the picture below, feeding seems reliable with 3 different ammo types (SK Rifle Match, CCI SV which was the worse pre-fix, and Eley Match). It results in no bullet damage or lead stripping which may have been a major cause in my accuracy issues and flyers.

Now, couple this fix with my Shaw barrel, I should hopefully be on track to shooting some much nicer groups next outing. Fingers crossed!

Now, as a more permanent fix (if this works well), I am thinking about putting some epoxy in that area and letting it harden up, then taking a dremel to it to smooth it out and fine tune the thickness for reliability. Thoughts on that or just leave the foil there?

In the near term you might want to leave the tape in place to make sure that your problem is solved. Once you're sure the tape is the fix, you could use some Devcon or JB epoxy, the kind that is steel powder embedded and a slow cure (24 hour-not the 5 minute stuff), paste and put a thin layered to replace the tape. It doesn't look like you'll need much. You may want to roughen up the plastic in the area where you put the epoxy so it adheres well, and then wipe some acetone on the area. Once you put the epoxy on, after about 6 hours it will start to get firm and you may be able to trim it to the thickness you want. Use a sharp knife to trim it, or if you let it harden longer, a small file ( a jeweler or hobby file), to get it the thickness you want. Don't use a Dremel tool for two reasons. It can cut too fast and it will get the epoxy hot. A knife or file is 'Mo-Betta' to use in this case.

I've used both the Devcon and JB epoxy to bed rifles and once it cures, it's really hard.

 

[Dave R.]

Possibly of interest for troubleshooting -

www.47products.com sells 10/22 sleds (single shot adapter, different colors too).

Effortless chambering, no marring of the bullet - could use to compare and see whether, or how much, bullet marring from regular magazine feed affects accuracy.

 

[Hoggr9]

I have had great luck using a Tandem Kros double cross in mine.