Ok, it's been a while but I was finally able to get the rifle back together and out to the range. The conditions weren't the best with some wind gusts, but I did my best to work around them. Looks to be an improvement over the groups with the crappy crown. In all fairness to the rifle the last shot (farthest upper left) was the last of the 10 and there was a wind gust right as I let it off. Even with that one it shoots a bit tighter. I will probably now do the bedding trick with the aluminum tape and do a little more testing of some higher end ammo.
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Ruger Precision Rimfire Mods
- Thread starter Maxim0
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Ok, it's been a while but I was finally able to get the rifle back together and out to the range. The conditions weren't the best with some wind gusts, but I did my best to work around them. Looks to be an improvement over the groups with the crappy crown. In all fairness to the rifle the last shot (farthest upper left) was the last of the 10 and there was a wind gust right as I let it off. Even with that one it shoots a bit tighter. I will probably now do the bedding trick with the aluminum tape and do a little more testing of some higher end ammo.
I bought my rprr a few months back but just finally got around to messing with it. I bedded with foil tape, put an MPA vertical grip, kidd plunger/spring and brake, switched to 10 round mags, check torque on everything and set action screws to 35. It shot .5" 5 shot groups at 50, and 1.3" at 100. I tried over 40 kinds of ammo and that was as good as I could get. Today was the first day I put the SHAW match barrel on it....and accuracy became unreal for me (average joe). The pic is of a 5 shot group using Eley tenex @100 yards. Eley force and Cci green tag were great at 100 as well, and just about anything I run through it shoots sub half at 50 yards. I did notice the really cheapo stuff does have ejection problems with the new barrel, but that was 2 brands out of over 25 brands I ran through the new barrel.
Hmmm??? If the actual question is which is better for accuracy, I think you can look at all the match grade ammo and see that they are all lead (with lubricants). There must be a good reason for that . . . huh?
I get much better results with the non-"jacketed" ammo as it's the higher end ammo.
BTW: I'm not aware of any jacketed .22 LR ammo. What I think you're talking about is not "jacketed" ammo, it's plated/washed ammo.
So I got out for a test after doing some fettling on the bedding block to receiver contact. Also used jb weld to bed the stock under where the bedding block sits.
The bore had been spotlessly cleaned prior to starting so needs leading up more.
50 shots done. 60 yards outside with 0-4 mph cross wind. Took scope off at some point in the 50 to move forward one slot on the rail then re zeroed.
The bore had been spotlessly cleaned prior to starting so needs leading up more.
50 shots done. 60 yards outside with 0-4 mph cross wind. Took scope off at some point in the 50 to move forward one slot on the rail then re zeroed.
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Man, the groups sure tightened up with a few rounds down the bore. I have spoke to some rimfire benchrest shooters that have a "fouling" regiment after their cleaning process because of the accuracy improvements.
I had some nice groups with Norma match and then the next couple bricks were crap. Wolf match target has been pretty consistent in my rifle as well as Eley Edge. With any 22 firearm you really need to try several brands and see which one yours likes.
I was using cci sv until I included eley club in my testing.
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In general, mine likes anything made by SK.
I tried some Norma Tac 22 last week and she didn't care for it at all.
They works pretty good too but I haven't shot it since last year.
The temps are in the 50's now, I wonder what she'll like when it gets in the 80's.
When it comes to ammo, Sometimes I think my rifle has PMS
Are you shooting using a magazine?
Reason I ask is without a magazine installed it does use the little ejector blade to eject the case, but with a magazine in place they actually eject off of the little raised squared edged tit on the top of magazine. (case ejects well before it even reaches the ejector blade)
I have been fighting an ejection issue with mine off & on for a while now. Without a magazine it will reliably eject as it uses the guns blade ejector.
With a magazine in place it will eject without any problem with the gun sitting on my bench in my shop but at the range during usage I will usually get 1 (or more) lame ejections that leaves the brass just laying on the top of magazine.
I have been seriously thinking about modifying a magazine to remove the ejection tit so the spent case travels all the way back to, then uses the guns blade ejector to eject. (anybody else tried this yet?)
Yes.
I use the 10 round rotories.
I haven't really looked at it with the magazine in place. I'll take a closer look at that and see if I can improve the ejection on the short stroke, as it's still a little weak . . . though reliable.
Smurfkiller,
I think 2 MOA at 100 yrds with Blazer's is probably as good as it's going to get with them. Those other's that are shooting 1 MOA are something to keep handy in case you've got some friendly competition for a couple of beers.
I think 2 MOA at 100 yrds with Blazer's is probably as good as it's going to get with them. Those other's that are shooting 1 MOA are something to keep handy in case you've got some friendly competition for a couple of beers.
Could be.
But getting 1 MOA with Blazer cartridges seems to me to be more of an aberration.
Could be a dirty barrel as my RPRR opens the groups with a dirty barrel (especially if shooting after a different brand/bullet was fired).
Or, if your modifications changed the magazine position to the bolt or chamber then possibly it's now feeding the rounds at a more sever angle therefore damaging the soft lead bullets.
If you reinstalled the thread protector when you removed your can then that could also effect grouping (my RPRR shoots about the same with or without a can but my can centers up pretty darn good, mine does group just slightly worse with the factory thread protector though)
If your gun was shooting sub MOA with over the counter super sonic ammo .22 then I'm not sure why you changed anything as sub MOA was a one-in-a-million gun the way it was (nowhere to go but down with changes).
My RPRR shoots close to MOA using subsonic CCI SV at 50 yards but nowhere near MOA at 100 yards (more like 1.5 MOA). I did back the receiver screws off to 30 inch lbs as a test & the gun shot good there but I can't say if that helped or not (definitely didn't hurt the accuracy).
My feeding is good, my ejection is now good, my bullet feed from a 10 round mag is good with no bullet damage (but I had to release some spring tension in the magazines to get the no-bullet-damage feeding).
If all else fails try putting your gun back to stock as that MOA with that ammo was amazing.
Have you fed some rounds into & out of the chamber using the bolt then carefully inspected the bullets for damage?
A small nick or scrape on the bullet isn't going to turn a 1moa gun into a 2.5moa gun but at distance it could add .100" or more to a group.
Have you gotten more comfortable with the gun so are now pulling it into your shoulder harder or are now pulling down on it. My personal RPRR is very picky about how much load that I put on the stock or pistol grip. If I don't shoot it loose with it j-u-s-t barely touching my shoulder & my hand not wrapped around the pistol grip ( thumb not wrapped around pistol grip) I get a larger groups & more fliers. That plastic RPRR chassis is easy to deflect with even a slight load on it.
Have you checked your picatinny scope mount rail? Mine had slightly loose screws as it came from the factory. I checked & tightened mine before even shooting the first shot so I don't know how much effect it could have (loose screws can't a good thing for accuracy though).
Try backing you magazine spring up a couple of nut flats (I backed my springs off 2 -3 flats & that did help my accuracy slightly (not 1 moa but it helped). Those mags are set up for semi-auto guns so a lot of spring tension so they feed at speed of the semi-auto.
I still have a hard time with your original accuracy as, to me, that 1moa was beyond phenomenal using the ammo that you were shooting . Is there ANY chance that was some sort of fluke or luck?
You can try different (expensive) ammo but that doesn't answer the question of IF it will accurately shoot the ammo that you want to shoot. On my personal RPRR I chose to not shoot other ammo than what I had planned to shoot long term as I have many/many thousands of the CCI SV so THAT is what I need to make shoot accurately in my gun. If I want to shoot 20 cent apiece rounds then I will shoot my center fire guns as those ARE sub moa at a lot longer ranges than a .22.
How about the wind????????, are you using wind flags??, I use 8 wind flags at only 50 yards & they ALL must be limp for me to get usable accuracy. It only takes a slight breeze at about any point in a .22 bullet flight to make the accuracy go away.
On your 2.5 moa groups, can you identify anything consistent with the fliers? Like 1moa across the group but 2.5 moa in the vertical direction? Are your groups large & round, or wide, or OK for width but large in the vertical. (this can tell you a LOT about what is going on).
Are you shooting at a small enough target, is your scope reticle correct for the dot that you are shooting at? (I need to shoot at a very small dot (usually 3/8" ring with a white center at 50 yards) but my scope has a floating center dot. I also 'usually anyhow' crank about 1 minute or 3/4 mil on my scope's elevation turret before shooting for best accuracy so my groups are above my target dot. If I don't do this then by the 3rd round I have shot the center of the target dot away, or at least made it odd shaped, so I am no longer holding EXACTLY center dot.
If all else is accounted for & your original accuracy wasn't a fluke or luck then your gun was set up EXACTLY right for the ammo that you were shooting so playing with bedding is probably directionally incorrect.
If you have a gun that shoots W-A-Y above logical expectations then never make a major change, or more than 1 change, at a time as the only way to go is down & you can't define what one or more of the changes effected it negatively.
Careful on polishing the mag feed area that you don't round off the ejection square tit as that could effect ejection with mag in gun. (round ejects off of mag with mag in the gun)
On your fundamental's, that is kind of what I was getting at as you probably pull the gun in tight with your metal chassis centerfire guns. If you pull the RPRR in tight then the plastic chassis/stock can kind of spring load & THAT can effect accuracy. If I tuck my RPRR in tight my group size expands, even gripping the pistol grip with my hand wrapped around it can effect group size.
This is a fascinating thread with lots of great discussion and content. I recently picked up a Ruger Precision Rimfire and it has been shooting pretty well, but I ran into a funny problem (of my own making). Went out and bought a Leupold VX Freedom and put it on top. Took it to the range and zeroed with my brother. Had trouble seeing the reticle at 25 and at 50 still blurry! Brother had trouble too and thought he was having an eye issue! Called Leupold cust service and found out that scope’s parallax is set for 150 yds + plus!!!!! HAHAAAAA
Funny thing is I still shot multiple groups at 0.375” at 50 yards - along with some crappy ones, for obvious reasons.
Took the VX Freedom back and bought a cheap Nikon Rimfire II for $99 to hold me over until I get a real target scope. Will update and let you guys know how I do from this point onward, now that I can actually see the target and reticle!!!!!! Thanks for all the info above - I bent that little piece of metal on the left sode of bolt inwards and have near perfect ejection/loading. Going to shoot the new setup tomorrow
G-d Bless,
Bryant
Funny thing is I still shot multiple groups at 0.375” at 50 yards - along with some crappy ones, for obvious reasons.
Took the VX Freedom back and bought a cheap Nikon Rimfire II for $99 to hold me over until I get a real target scope. Will update and let you guys know how I do from this point onward, now that I can actually see the target and reticle!!!!!! Thanks for all the info above - I bent that little piece of metal on the left sode of bolt inwards and have near perfect ejection/loading. Going to shoot the new setup tomorrow
G-d Bless,
Bryant
I’ve fitted a Timney single stage trigger to my RPR and whist it’s a very big improvement on the stock trigger, I’m having issues.
A round is picked up every time and feed/extract with no issues what so ever.
On about 4 out of 10 times on working the bolt for the next shot the trigger is not reset, I can feel this straight away and lifting/dropping the bolt resets the trigger and now it will fire.
I’ve swapped out the mag retention spring for a stronger one, also I’ve added some aircon foil to tighten mag latch assembly. Trigger reset worked every time before the Timney was fitted). Thanks to the contributions to the thread
Ive completely cleaned the rifle and mags to no avail.
Can anyone offer me some advice?
John
A round is picked up every time and feed/extract with no issues what so ever.
On about 4 out of 10 times on working the bolt for the next shot the trigger is not reset, I can feel this straight away and lifting/dropping the bolt resets the trigger and now it will fire.
I’ve swapped out the mag retention spring for a stronger one, also I’ve added some aircon foil to tighten mag latch assembly. Trigger reset worked every time before the Timney was fitted). Thanks to the contributions to the thread
Ive completely cleaned the rifle and mags to no avail.
Can anyone offer me some advice?
John
At first blush it sounds like your sear engagement is set too short or your spring tension is set too low or a
little of both. You have nothing to loose by starting over with those settings. If it turns out to be inadequate
spring force than something may be hanging up inside of the trigger.
Best of luck
little of both. You have nothing to loose by starting over with those settings. If it turns out to be inadequate
spring force than something may be hanging up inside of the trigger.
Best of luck
i went thru the sme problem with a timney on mine. called timney, they told me no guarantees with ruger, they simply dont hold tight enough tolerances during manufacturer. sold the trigger, then sold the rifle. bought a cz. glad the rprs are workin for some folks, mine was junk
Learjet, thanks, I thought mine was very “agricultural”. I’ve already bought it’s replacement a Lithgow LA101 Aussie stuff, shoots much more reliably. The looks and handling of the rpr are top notch, sadly that’s it’s best feature. Mine shoots better without the thread protector fitted and shoots most types of SK ammunition well enough.
John
John
Here was mines main issue, chamber cut crooked.
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AirGunShawn, thanks your were right in the sear engagement, I’ve made 2 adjustments, the first time there was improvement, 2nd adjustment problem gone (unable to work on your rifle at the range when it’s busy - sadly that’s the only time I can shoot).
Its starting to be a pleasure to shoot it now, I was getting close to shopping it out for a Tikka T1X, (still keeping the Lithgow that was bought as a replacement) but the Ruger is going to stay, for a while longer at least.
John
I thought I would tag on to this thread, since I've got a new RPRR that had an extraction/ejection problem. In closely examining the bolt I determined that there was no spring tension on the extractor--it just wiggled back and forth loosely. I was pretty sure it was just a misshaped positioner spring from the factory, but rather than bend it myself I just sent away to MDs for a replacement positioner spring, along with a new extractor while I was at it. The parts arrived quickly, and immediately upon swapping them in I could see that the extractor now had spring tension as it was designed to do. Solved the FTE problem immediately, and ran the next 200 rounds without a single failure. So this is an easy fix that you may need to add to your RPRR tuneup list.
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