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Ruger Precision Rimfire
- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
Meh. I still get the occasional flier.
I've decided I'm gonna order me a Vudoo. Nothing against the Ruger. For the price and just fun shooting, its perfect. However, I want to start shooting NRL22 regularly and try to be competitive. I shot the Vudoo and realized the Ruger is holding me back (hope that doesn't come across as arrogant).
the hate is strong in this thread lately lol...
Had an RPRF, had some extraction issues here and there, had lightened the trigger and "bedded" the action with foil tape - it was a fun plinker but due to the occasional extraction issues I decided to move to a CZ. Long story short couldn't find the one I wanted in stock anywhere, and just got a replacement RPRF in. Cleaned it up and took to range for first time today. No changes, stock everything, no foil bedding, stock trigger etc. Did a condensed version barrel break in, got her sighed in, and then basically astounded myself with how well this one shot...
Also using a different scope, not sure that made any difference but used a SWFA 10x fixed today, previously I had been using an Athlon 6-24 FFP. Oh I also used an aluminum mlok rail for the bipod instead of the polymer one they include. Can't recall if I had the aluminum one on the previous rifle though.
Using CCI SV, 10rd stock mags...
10 rd groups at 50 yards:
This is quite a bit better than the previous one I had. Maybe I got lucky with one this time. Time will tell only put about 100 rounds through it today. Also no extraction issues today. Previous one I would get one every other mag or so.
Had an RPRF, had some extraction issues here and there, had lightened the trigger and "bedded" the action with foil tape - it was a fun plinker but due to the occasional extraction issues I decided to move to a CZ. Long story short couldn't find the one I wanted in stock anywhere, and just got a replacement RPRF in. Cleaned it up and took to range for first time today. No changes, stock everything, no foil bedding, stock trigger etc. Did a condensed version barrel break in, got her sighed in, and then basically astounded myself with how well this one shot...
Also using a different scope, not sure that made any difference but used a SWFA 10x fixed today, previously I had been using an Athlon 6-24 FFP. Oh I also used an aluminum mlok rail for the bipod instead of the polymer one they include. Can't recall if I had the aluminum one on the previous rifle though.
Using CCI SV, 10rd stock mags...
10 rd groups at 50 yards:
This is quite a bit better than the previous one I had. Maybe I got lucky with one this time. Time will tell only put about 100 rounds through it today. Also no extraction issues today. Previous one I would get one every other mag or so.
the hate is strong in this thread lately lol...
Had an RPRF, had some extraction issues here and there, had lightened the trigger and "bedded" the action with foil tape - it was a fun plinker but due to the occasional extraction issues I decided to move to a CZ. Long story short couldn't find the one I wanted in stock anywhere, and just got a replacement RPRF in. Cleaned it up and took to range for first time today. No changes, stock everything, no foil bedding, stock trigger etc. Did a condensed version barrel break in, got her sighed in, and then basically astounded myself with how well this one shot...
Also using a different scope, not sure that made any difference but used a SWFA 10x fixed today, previously I had been using an Athlon 6-24 FFP. Oh I also used an aluminum mlok rail for the bipod instead of the polymer one they include. Can't recall if I had the aluminum one on the previous rifle though.
Using CCI SV, 10rd stock mags...
10 rd groups at 50 yards:
This is quite a bit better than the previous one I had. Maybe I got lucky with one this time. Time will tell only put about 100 rounds through it today. Also no extraction issues today. Previous one I would get one every other mag or so.
That excellent shooting, grouped perfect. Isn't nice when you go to the range and shoot well, it just give you a warm fuzzy!
I tried removing the trigger spring from my Precision Rimfire but I had a few "failure to reset" issues so I installed a Bic pen spring that was cut to the same length as the factory spring. I'm now getting a minimum of 1.5lb trigger pull and a reliable trigger.
D
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Hater going to hate mine shoots great for a $400 22LR bet i can kill just as many turtles as you can with your CZ LMAO!!!
Thanks, one of my better days
. Shot the RPRF again Friday, another 100 rounds with CCI SV, similar results. This one is definitely shooting better than my previous one. I still haven't messed with trigger or foil bedding or anything like that, basically out of the box condition still.I'll put another couple hundred rounds through it, then break out some different ammo - I had picked a few 50rd boxed of Lapua, Eley, SK, etc to run through the CZ that never materialized...
Im one of the idiots who purchased a RPRR recently. ?
I shot my first NRL.22 match in June with my 10/22 and did terribly. Went out and bought a RPRR the next week. Thanks to the advice on this thread, I took the gun apart and cleaned it pretty well. I didn't put any tape or anything on the block and decided to see how it would do. I threw my Leupold Mk6 3-18 and TBAC can on it. I then grabbed several different types of ammo from my LGS and went to the range.
Norma Match shot the best in it with Eley Target and CCI SV being close seconds. I haven't tried SK or Wolf yet because those aren't available in stores around here. So, I went with what was available. Thankfully, my LGS has "a ton" of it in their warehouse and is setting it all aside for me.
I put about 400 rounds through the rifle before going out to July's NRL.22 match and ended up winning it. According to some people on here lately, that's an impossible feat. (I'll be attempting to walk on water later if anyone is interested in how that goes.)
I ended up picking up a Vortex Viper PST II FFP 5-25 but this scope is much longer than the Mk6. The options were to buy new rings or get a 0 MOA rail. That was an easy choice. Apparently I over-torqued the rail down when I put it back together and ended up breaking the tips off two bits. So, I guess I'm gonna go buy another 20 bits and hope I don't break them all.
I'm looking forward to shooting this month's NRL.22 match next weekend. We'll see if lightening does in fact strike twice.
I shot my first NRL.22 match in June with my 10/22 and did terribly. Went out and bought a RPRR the next week. Thanks to the advice on this thread, I took the gun apart and cleaned it pretty well. I didn't put any tape or anything on the block and decided to see how it would do. I threw my Leupold Mk6 3-18 and TBAC can on it. I then grabbed several different types of ammo from my LGS and went to the range.
Norma Match shot the best in it with Eley Target and CCI SV being close seconds. I haven't tried SK or Wolf yet because those aren't available in stores around here. So, I went with what was available. Thankfully, my LGS has "a ton" of it in their warehouse and is setting it all aside for me.
I put about 400 rounds through the rifle before going out to July's NRL.22 match and ended up winning it. According to some people on here lately, that's an impossible feat. (I'll be attempting to walk on water later if anyone is interested in how that goes.)
I ended up picking up a Vortex Viper PST II FFP 5-25 but this scope is much longer than the Mk6. The options were to buy new rings or get a 0 MOA rail. That was an easy choice. Apparently I over-torqued the rail down when I put it back together and ended up breaking the tips off two bits. So, I guess I'm gonna go buy another 20 bits and hope I don't break them all.
I'm looking forward to shooting this month's NRL.22 match next weekend. We'll see if lightening does in fact strike twice.
A 0 or 10 MOA would be awesome. My current scope/ring setup wont allow for more.
Im one of the idiots who purchased a RPRR recently. ?
I shot my first NRL.22 match in June with my 10/22 and did terribly. Went out and bought a RPRR the next week. Thanks to the advice on this thread, I took the gun apart and cleaned it pretty well. I didn't put any tape or anything on the block and decided to see how it would do. I threw my Leupold Mk6 3-18 and TBAC can on it. I then grabbed several different types of ammo from my LGS and went to the range.
Norma Match shot the best in it with Eley Target and CCI SV being close seconds. I haven't tried SK or Wolf yet because those aren't available in stores around here. So, I went with what was available. Thankfully, my LGS has "a ton" of it in their warehouse and is setting it all aside for me.
I put about 400 rounds through the rifle before going out to July's NRL.22 match and ended up winning it. According to some people on here lately, that's an impossible feat. (I'll be attempting to walk on water later if anyone is interested in how that goes.)
I ended up picking up a Vortex Viper PST II FFP 5-25 but this scope is much longer than the Mk6. The options were to buy new rings or get a 0 MOA rail. That was an easy choice. Apparently I over-torqued the rail down when I put it back together and ended up breaking the tips off two bits. So, I guess I'm gonna go buy another 20 bits and hope I don't break them all.
I'm looking forward to shooting this month's NRL.22 match next weekend. We'll see if lightening does in fact strike twice.
Once my Vudoo arrives. My RPRR will be for sale.
Once my Vudoo arrives. My RPRR will be for sale.
I'm gonna run mine for this season of NRL.22 and then probably upgrade to a Vudoo next year. I cant afford to do custom centerfire AND rimfire in the same year.
My oldest is getting to that age where he'll start shooting so I'll hang onto the RPRR for him to play with after I upgrade.
Hey guys out of interest does anyone know what size the action screws are on the rpr? I just stripped my heads and before preforming surgery on my rifle id like to order some stronger ones. I am not in the US and sending it back is not an option metric would be lovely lol..
metric would be lovely lol..Hey guys out of interest does anyone know what size the action screws are on the rpr? I just stripped my heads and before preforming surgery on my rifle id like to order some stronger ones. I am not in the US and sending it back is not an option
Out of town right now but if you still need it this weekend let me know and I can pull the screws and run down to the local hardware store and check them out
You would rally do that? thats pretty awesome man.. im guessing someone else has stripped a bolt or 2 before and feels my pain lol.. the whole unc unf / metric.. grrr metric!!!!? confusing lol..
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Hey guys out of interest does anyone know what size the action screws are on the rpr? I just stripped my heads and before preforming surgery on my rifle id like to order some stronger ones. I am not in the US and sending it back is not an option
I called Ruger for the size of their bedding screws, (part #'s 68 & 69). No luck, customer service doesn't know, or maybe, doesn't want to give it out. The rep I spoke to put me on hold while she tied to find out but no one was around to give her the info.
Either way if you go on their website on the main page in the menu area on the top on the far right is a link to the to the international customer area, you can get the phone number for their distributers in your country.
-Assuming you're from Aus. the company is Nioa, phone # 7-3621-9999
if from Nz, the company is JPB Furley, phone # 9-574-6120
good luck
Bit of cherry picking here, but here's my best group of the day on a recent range trip - same ammo as before (CCI SV), same lot no, same setup - SSWA 10x, no bedding, stock trigger, etc off a bipod and squeeze bag at 50y... 5 shot group
I'll likely put the 6-24 back on it soon and see how it does reaching out a bit further, but again this particular sample smokes the one I had previously.
I'll likely put the 6-24 back on it soon and see how it does reaching out a bit further, but again this particular sample smokes the one I had previously.
Hey guys out of interest does anyone know what size the action screws are on the rpr? I just stripped my heads and before preforming surgery on my rifle id like to order some stronger ones. I am not in the US and sending it back is not an option
I just received a replacement set of action screws from Ruger for the same problem.
They are 10-32 button head screws. The front screw is 3/4" long (threaded portion), and the rear screw is 1 1/4" long (threaded portion). The hex wrench that fits is 1/8", make sure you get a good wrench as I had some that were undersize a bit and caused the problem.
I had to drill the front screw hole deeper in order to jam a square drive bit in the hole to remove. I thought the head would just pop off, but it took the screw out neatly.
Good luck finding what you need!
Upadte 8/9/19
Checked the best hardware store in my area late yesterday. They had the 3/4" 10-32 button head, but not the 1 1/4", only up to 1" in length. In a pinch they did have a 1 1/4" in a Phillips head that could be used.
Again, good luck in your search, I'm sure they can be ordered online.
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Thanks man.. i did call the international number as ruger customer service refferred me there.. then i was deferred to the australian importer.. i have sent an inquiry.. you would think that this info would be easy lol..
Sweet.. thats the starting point i needed.. cheers man.. i appriciate the info and the effort.. ?
Hey out of interest.. i wanna make sure my conversion is right.. from the dimensions you supplied the closest i can get is m5-0.8×20mm and 30mm for the rear.. anyone else know if these are the correct sizes.. just dont wanna order the wrong ones. I have also noted that the 1 1/4 to metric is 30mm.. however the conversion is 31.7.. anyone think this will be an issue? Same with the 3/4 is a mil off
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You cannot put a metric threaded fastener into a US Standard threaded hole. You must acquire the proper threaded fasteners as listed in my post above. If US Standard fasteners are not available locally to you, you will have to order them online. JMHO
Sweet.. thanks for that.. didnt wanna go out and get the wrong ones. So yeah looks like ill do some digging and wait till they turn up.. is there any chance australian imports chanhe these to metric..?.. doubt it but never know.
This is the size I got.
Btw I lost these screws a few months ago and ruger sent me a pair no charge.
Ordering online should be possible. How about
Amazon.com: 10-32 x 3/4" Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Black Oxide, Alloy Steel, Fully Threaded, Machine Thread, Quantity 100: Home Improvement
Buy 10-32 x 3/4" Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Black Oxide, Alloy Steel, Fully Threaded, Machine Thread, Quantity 100: Socket Head Screws - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
10-32 x 1-1/4" Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread, Quantity 50 by Fastenere: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
10-32 x 1-1/4" Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread, Quantity 50 by Fastenere: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Don’t know if amazon has them for you country but the US one turned these up
The tinfoil tape bedding solution is not a good fix in my opinion. The problem with these rifles is the tolerance stacking with the stock, mag catch block, trigger housing and receiver causing the rear of the action to not sit solidly in the stock. Putting foil tape on the mag catch block just reduces the amount that the rear of the action tips and wobbles because it's sitting on the mag catch block instead of the stock. The receiver has a pair of pockets machined in the sides that should rest on a pair of piers molded into the stock. This interface needs to be properly bedded to get the receiver in solid contact with the stock.
Mine was shooting 3-4" groups at best from the factory at 100 yards with the ammo it liked best. Groups shrunk to 2.5-3.5" with a match chambered barrel, but after bedding it shoots better than my Vudoo. I've shot 1/2" 5 shot group at 100 with it.
Mine was shooting 3-4" groups at best from the factory at 100 yards with the ammo it liked best. Groups shrunk to 2.5-3.5" with a match chambered barrel, but after bedding it shoots better than my Vudoo. I've shot 1/2" 5 shot group at 100 with it.
I agree, I would think that kind of info would be on a tech sheet or something. It makes me wonder if Ruger is making these rifles, or they're subbed out. Why else would a Ruger tech not have the info.....Hmmm
BTW, you are most welcome.
I had a feeling you were an Aussie. I spent three weeks there in 1990. You folks are the kindest, most hospitable folks around.
Yes! A picture please about these "piers" and the bedding!!!!
I just might brake mine down to see if I can figure out what you're saying.
Yeah ill have a look and see if i can get them here.. should be able to thanks fellas..
Yup, problems can be solved if enough money is thrown at it.
I had someone tell me that b4. There is a lot of truth to it. However, at some point the law of diminishing returns kicks in. I'm just about at that point once I replace the current Diamondback on it with the Vortex Viper PST.
I solved my Ruger Rimfire accuracy issue........
Vudoo barreled action arrived today and I quickly put it in my MPA chassis. Problem solved.
View attachment 7128902
My first shots with my new Vudoo. My Ruger never did this. I was hitting the 1/4" KYL at 50 yards every time!!
You were really expecting that kind of performance from a $400 mass produced rifle???
Yeah does make you wonder.. lol.. cheers.. allot has changed since 1990 but everywhere has lol..
My Mom always said" If you have a problem (Ruger RPR.22) and you have the money to fix it (Vudoo) you don't have a problem. I have a Vudoo...No Problem.....
Hello. New member here and my reason for joining was this particular forum thread to see what people's thoughts on the RPR were and maybe exchange some thoughts and information.
I have one and am well pleased with it except the trigger and I'm just not happy with triggers with a blade in the middle of them. It took some work to get it to shoot well but it's a fairly cheap rifle so it was about what I expected. It will stay under .4" at 50 yards with RWS Target Rifle ammo and close to .5" with CCI SV. I have essential tremors so I'm can't shoot that great anymore but my bench setup helps me a great deal. Timney has solved my trigger dislike. I got it installed this past weekend and am simply waiting on a the wind to settle down to take it to the range again. Other brands and grades of ammo will be tested and the fun will continue.
I've shot it at 100 and 200 yards a bit. The results have been good so I will do more.
I have one and am well pleased with it except the trigger and I'm just not happy with triggers with a blade in the middle of them. It took some work to get it to shoot well but it's a fairly cheap rifle so it was about what I expected. It will stay under .4" at 50 yards with RWS Target Rifle ammo and close to .5" with CCI SV. I have essential tremors so I'm can't shoot that great anymore but my bench setup helps me a great deal. Timney has solved my trigger dislike. I got it installed this past weekend and am simply waiting on a the wind to settle down to take it to the range again. Other brands and grades of ammo will be tested and the fun will continue.
I've shot it at 100 and 200 yards a bit. The results have been good so I will do more.
I had three boxes of RWS Target Rifle ammo that all of my other rifles has basically said phooey to. None of them shot it very well at all. I gathered it up and tried it out in the RPR my last range session and found the RPR had a decided fondness fot it. I found six boxes today at a better price and grabbed them all. I'm really hoping nothing has changed with the ammo as I'm sure it's from a different lot.
I have always had good results with CCI SV in every rifle I've shot it in until the last brick I bought and I'm getting frequent fliers. I've shot in four diferent rifles and it's the same with all four.
I have always had good results with CCI SV in every rifle I've shot it in until the last brick I bought and I'm getting frequent fliers. I've shot in four diferent rifles and it's the same with all four.
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Was able to pick up 5k rounds of Norma Match for my rifle. So, I should have enough to get me through this season of NRL .22 competition. I'll probably have to find something else to run through my rifle after that.
I was also able to get the Viper PST II 5-25 mounted and setup. So far, this scope is working out pretty well.
I shot the local NRL .22 match here this month and took second. First place was only 9 points ahead of me so not too bad. The wind was really rough and the 105 degree temps weren't very fun either. The wind was all over the place so the KYL stage absolutely ate my lunch.
I was also able to get the Viper PST II 5-25 mounted and setup. So far, this scope is working out pretty well.
I shot the local NRL .22 match here this month and took second. First place was only 9 points ahead of me so not too bad. The wind was really rough and the 105 degree temps weren't very fun either. The wind was all over the place so the KYL stage absolutely ate my lunch.
I'm about ready to start testing some premium ammo down the RPRF - although CCI SV is shooting so good there's not a whole lot of room for improvement... I do get an occasional flyer with it, though - always the same, maybe a 1/2 moa high at 50. 100 yards it does open up a bit though so a testing we shall go . Have several iterations of SK Match, Lapua & Eley to start.
Kinda new to this in a 22 - is there a preferred testing regimine? Clean barrel between different brands/models? Issues with barrel temp on the back end of a testing session, etc?
. Have several iterations of SK Match, Lapua & Eley to start.Kinda new to this in a 22 - is there a preferred testing regimine? Clean barrel between different brands/models? Issues with barrel temp on the back end of a testing session, etc?
I hit the range early this morning to test a couple of brands of ammo I hadn't ever useed before. Things were looking good at 50 so I moved to 100 and shot two groups. Then I looked around at my jeep and found a flat on the rear. Guy I know was there and he had a 12 volt compressor so we hooked it up and I gathered things up so I could make a dash to the nearest tire dealer. I got the tire fixed. It's 108 degrees outside and the tatgets are in the jeep unmeasured. I'll do it in the morning while it's still cool and post details..
Talk about sticker shock. It's been years since I had a flat tire. My tire is repaired and for only slightly less than nineteen dollars.
Talk about sticker shock. It's been years since I had a flat tire. My tire is repaired and for only slightly less than nineteen dollars.
Take the screw to Home Depot. Go to the hardware section and check your screw on the store template. Or try Ace Hardware. Ace has a great assortment of screws and a good template (with more sizes than Home Depot).
Bang
I posted the screw sizes on page 27, post #1333. 10-32 button head, 3/4" long for front and 1 1/4" long for rear. Ace has the 3/4" long but not the 1 1/4" in button head. They did have a 1 1/4" Phillips head that will get you by in a pinch, but will be harder to torque as the bit will want to "twist" out of the head.
I re-bedded My RPR a week ago. I had previously done the foil bedding, in my case using the tin foil from a small pie tin. Perhaps over time the bedding had become compressed, as the magazine block was loose again when I took the action out. This time I bedded it with the tin from a pop can, which is just a tad thicker, and everything was firmly in place. I also bedded what I'm going to call the "recoil lugs." Cut into each side of the barrel, near it's end, are two "U" shaped mortices. When the barrel is installed back into the action, these mortices fit into two plastic lugs molded into the sides of the action. The are probably there so the barrel is properly indexed when placed back into the action. I measured the size of the mortices and lugs that fit into them and there was a sizable gap. I cut two thin shims of aluminum to take up some of this gap, and using a couple of drops of superglue, glued the shims over the top and side of the shims. When I put the action back into the stock, I could feel kind of a "pop" when it went into place, so now I feel everything is more secured into place.
I took it out to the range and the first 5 rounds all landed into a 1/4'' square at 50 yards. But my next few groups opened up again; I'd get three or four rounds in a tight group with the all to often flyer, and then a tight group again. The more I shot, the more the groups opened. I was shooting SK rifle match of a bipod and rear bag from a bench. The temps were in the low 90's, and sunny. While I and the action was in the shade, about 1/2 the barrel was in the sun. When I reloaded I would place a towel over the scope and barrel to keep the sun off of them. The guy next to me had a digital inferred thermometer and I had him read the temps on the action (88 degrees), and then the end of the barrel, the part out in the sun, (118 degrees). I stopped shooting and went home.
Last week I went to the range again. The temps were in the 70's and overcast. I shot SK pistol match at 50 yards and again got pretty respectful groups, the occasional 1/4," and 3/4" groups, with the more usual 1/2." Was still getting the flyers. Once I felt the cleaned barrel was getting settled in, I began adjusting the action screws. At 30 inch pounds the groups were two inches high and as much as two inches in diameter. I found that the lighter I torqued the screws, the tighter my groups were. I've got my action screws set under 18 inch pounds now. I use Butler Creek "hot Lips" 25 round magazines, and noticed that I had a few problems with loading and ejection when I had higher torque values. Lowering those values and the bolt cycles a lot smoother with no problems.
My rifle is basically stock, and I'm trying to decide if I should buy a Shaw barrel. What I have noticed, but can't prove, is that the factory barrel has a "Sporting" chamber, which is large enough so the rifle will shoot anything .22LR. But accuracy suffers because of this. I get my best groups when I have the dreaded "carbon ring" in the chamber, as I think this helps keep the bullet aligned in the chamber. There's a sweet spot in the size of the carbon ring; too little and the base of the bullet isn't supported, too much and it scrapes the side of the bullet, and it's no longer aligned square to the bore. A match barrel with it's tighter chamber and engraving the bullet into the rifling will align the bullet. In this case the build up of a carbon ring isn't wanted at all.
I've also noticed that ambient temperatures seem to effect accuracy. I have a harder time getting good groups when the temps get into the 80's or higher. Perhaps the higher environmental temperatures are outside of my personal comfort level. I shoot a 25 round mag, 5 shoots per target, and probably too fast, so I think chamber temperatures have some effect. I've noticed that during a long string of shots, if I chamber a round and wait for the wind to calm, that shot is normally a flyer. I now leave the chamber open until I'm ready to shoot, and I set a cadence to when I fire.
I've had the rifle for about two years. From it's serial number, it was built in the first month of production. I've got over 8,000 rounds though it. Despite all of the things I've had to do to it in an effort to improve it, I've enjoyed it immensely. But then, I like doing things like that. For the person who doesn't have the patience to work on it, it may not be the rifle for them.
This has just been some ramblings with my experience with the RPR while I'm avoiding doing yard work.
I took it out to the range and the first 5 rounds all landed into a 1/4'' square at 50 yards. But my next few groups opened up again; I'd get three or four rounds in a tight group with the all to often flyer, and then a tight group again. The more I shot, the more the groups opened. I was shooting SK rifle match of a bipod and rear bag from a bench. The temps were in the low 90's, and sunny. While I and the action was in the shade, about 1/2 the barrel was in the sun. When I reloaded I would place a towel over the scope and barrel to keep the sun off of them. The guy next to me had a digital inferred thermometer and I had him read the temps on the action (88 degrees), and then the end of the barrel, the part out in the sun, (118 degrees). I stopped shooting and went home.
Last week I went to the range again. The temps were in the 70's and overcast. I shot SK pistol match at 50 yards and again got pretty respectful groups, the occasional 1/4," and 3/4" groups, with the more usual 1/2." Was still getting the flyers. Once I felt the cleaned barrel was getting settled in, I began adjusting the action screws. At 30 inch pounds the groups were two inches high and as much as two inches in diameter. I found that the lighter I torqued the screws, the tighter my groups were. I've got my action screws set under 18 inch pounds now. I use Butler Creek "hot Lips" 25 round magazines, and noticed that I had a few problems with loading and ejection when I had higher torque values. Lowering those values and the bolt cycles a lot smoother with no problems.
My rifle is basically stock, and I'm trying to decide if I should buy a Shaw barrel. What I have noticed, but can't prove, is that the factory barrel has a "Sporting" chamber, which is large enough so the rifle will shoot anything .22LR. But accuracy suffers because of this. I get my best groups when I have the dreaded "carbon ring" in the chamber, as I think this helps keep the bullet aligned in the chamber. There's a sweet spot in the size of the carbon ring; too little and the base of the bullet isn't supported, too much and it scrapes the side of the bullet, and it's no longer aligned square to the bore. A match barrel with it's tighter chamber and engraving the bullet into the rifling will align the bullet. In this case the build up of a carbon ring isn't wanted at all.
I've also noticed that ambient temperatures seem to effect accuracy. I have a harder time getting good groups when the temps get into the 80's or higher. Perhaps the higher environmental temperatures are outside of my personal comfort level. I shoot a 25 round mag, 5 shoots per target, and probably too fast, so I think chamber temperatures have some effect. I've noticed that during a long string of shots, if I chamber a round and wait for the wind to calm, that shot is normally a flyer. I now leave the chamber open until I'm ready to shoot, and I set a cadence to when I fire.
I've had the rifle for about two years. From it's serial number, it was built in the first month of production. I've got over 8,000 rounds though it. Despite all of the things I've had to do to it in an effort to improve it, I've enjoyed it immensely. But then, I like doing things like that. For the person who doesn't have the patience to work on it, it may not be the rifle for them.
This has just been some ramblings with my experience with the RPR while I'm avoiding doing yard work.
Finally had some decent conditions at the range this morning. Here are a few of the groups I shot at 100 yds using CCI SV. Rifle is all stock with just minor polishing on the bolt bottom to prevent scraping the bullet during operation.
